jacco vermeulen said:
Say what, i didn't quite get the "matched" part ?
Alexi, bite him.
neu werry
I have a habbbbito to bite one danske every supper
edit:
you're plain jeauloso ........ go to next BAF , and ask from Papa one toob of matched XA150.5s
Customs would skin me with their usual 43.5% nazee-you tax the moment i cross the line with those monsters.
Only way to get them across clean is to buy a vehicle in the US again and pray they're not in the mood to admire the upholstery of the trunk.
But no one would check my pockets, i could stare at a set of pyjamas that's pinned on the wall for years on end, while i listen to my Akai set.
Only way to get them across clean is to buy a vehicle in the US again and pray they're not in the mood to admire the upholstery of the trunk.
But no one would check my pockets, i could stare at a set of pyjamas that's pinned on the wall for years on end, while i listen to my Akai set.
Originally posted by Blitz
As I understand you use Jensen's as well ? Did you realize a burn-in-effect and took it long ?
Hi Blitz,
Sorry, I did not realize any burn-in-effect.
Best Regards
jacco vermeulen said:At a little over 13W of dissipation each, i've been a bit surprised as yet no one has posted IRF630/9630.
I've used Fairchild's TO220 for the A75 (shivers, that's fifteen help me gawd years ago), "papa's got the same die in a brand new pig bag" as the intended IRF230-9230/31 TO3 combo for Pyjama-P and Spaced-Out Normy's amp.
630/9630s are like 25cts each nowadays.
I'm using the IRF630/9630. They sound great! Very affordable.
Re: IRF(9)540
tab30 said:Thank you all for your Answer !
I extract that I can use the IRF(9)540 in this Design.
Should I modify some details in the circuit ?
Greethings
Andreas
No reason to bother with modifications.
Magura
jacco vermeulen said:
Say what, i didn't quite get the "matched" part ?
Alexi, bite him.
Well, I seem to have had a senior moment. Those are IRF244, and for the matched part, take a look at the handwriting
Magura
Attachments
bubba177 said:i did what papa said and put power supply grounds on one end and signal grounds on the other--thermistor side--but still have hum here are a couple of pics for you sharp eyed guys to see if you spot anything i did wrong
Have you tried turning the transformer slowly, while powered up?
Magura
i took a heatsink off while it was on and swung it way out of the way--no difference.i'm thinking i need to look at the power supply here is a pic of the board.the 2 black jumpers tie the ground rails together and there are two jumpers underneath that go from + to + on the caps(and - to - on the negative supply with + going to the ground rails of the board) i have + and - 24 volts dc---everything measures fine voltage wise and the amp sounds maaavalous just got hummmm
Attachments
Hey Bubba,
so now you have the signal ground connected to the chassis with a thermistor, the chassis is connected to earth.
Try a 0.1uf cap parallel with the thermistor, like here: http://sound.westhost.com/earthing.htm
It worked for me, I got rid of the hum in my DIY CD player.
so now you have the signal ground connected to the chassis with a thermistor, the chassis is connected to earth.
Try a 0.1uf cap parallel with the thermistor, like here: http://sound.westhost.com/earthing.htm
It worked for me, I got rid of the hum in my DIY CD player.
Or disconnect the labyrinth boards and try a simple lytic bank with a few wires to see if the CRC mumbo-jumbo is causing the hardships.
(might have been wiser to jumper the CRC boards at the front and the back instead of playing crossroads. Tom Waits in the Fisher King : Whoop, Whoop, now boarding for the Ground Loop Express)
(might have been wiser to jumper the CRC boards at the front and the back instead of playing crossroads. Tom Waits in the Fisher King : Whoop, Whoop, now boarding for the Ground Loop Express)
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