Ah I'm running a Kicker CompC 15" I've had laying around for a few years from my brother's old setups and then matching it with a 15" CompVR, both of them 4 Ohms. I'm definitely more of the kind of person who wants to feel the bass, what would I emphasize on my build to have it lean towards feeling versus only hearing? If I'm being honest, one of the main reasons I chose Sealed over Ported was because sealed just seems more simple, and what I was running with my CompC was a sealed so if it aint broke why fix it, ya know? I just knew sealed worked for certain with this sub, so I want to keep it that way just to be safe. In the future, however, I'd like to get more into this, maybe make custom enclosures for friends and all that, so I definitely will be getting into learning how to make ported boxes. My paycheck is on Tuesday so hopefully I can get moving on this as soon as Wednesday!
Would reinforcing all of the wood bonds with screws have any adverse affects? There's a few points where the wood doesn't join up flush, so if I could just add a few and reinforce it without any worries then it's just about done after the carpet and filling arrives around Friday-Monday. Will be uploading a new post once it's done showing all the steps I took!
It's good to use fasteners. The glue only holds to the surface of the MDF. It's fairly strong but it can be torn off.
Enclosure is built, amp is setup, build is in place in the trunk! I really appreciate all of you helping me design and figure it out, it sounds absolutely incredible!
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ahhhhhhh.... FOIL and DUCT TAPE and FIBERGLAS.... oh my.... MEMORIES...LOL... BDBD/2022
Custom Enclosures in AUTOMOBILES.... MY experience?.... Build the BOX first... THEN buy the proper speaker for your end result. GOD KNOWS what the internals will be in regards to building a custom enclosure, THUS... build the box first. And yes I know you want 15's...... LOL.... but a pair of 10's will surely perform much better in that space my friend. Said that to so many customers..... and in went 15's...LOL... Customer's always right... As your box goes, it should be removable in case of emergency. Well unless you use a FORK LIFT to install yer 800 pound enclosure. THEN ya will surely need AAA.... On the way. Once ya get the box built and fitted and its good, THEN do your internal measurements... Buy the correct driver for that space ya created. So goes custom enclosures. Can't remember the last time I built one.... 2006?.... PRE MADE enclosures... Came along. Up to that point I was making good money building one off speaker enclosures. Rumble them cars.... BDBD/2022
Well throughout the build, I measured and ensured it would fit with each cut. Hell, I spent a whole day reshaping the original design till it slid nice and clean into my trunk. It's a little late now, it's all said and done, but I did have slight difficulties with the 15's, but nothing that I wasn't able to figure out and resolve.
I've never seen an enclosure fail at a point where there was a screw. If you don't pre-drill, it can split the wood but a screw that had a pre-drill and a countersink for the head is incredibly strong.
Wrong in what way? I'd agree that particle board is garbage but MDF is very good unless it gets wet.
Wrong in what way? I'd agree that particle board is garbage but MDF is very good unless it gets wet.
MDF is not very stiff, and heavy. This means any panel resonance is going to be lower in frequency. In a subwoofer the goal is to push potential resonances up above the speaker’s bandwidth. This is much easier to do with quality plywood. A woofer built of 15mm quality ply that dramatically outperforms a similar box made of ¾’ mdf. And it will weigh a whole lot less. At home that weight might not be important, but in a car it certainly is.
MDF’s only asset is that it is cheap.
And i have seen a blown out corner due to the screws used instead of clamps.
dave
MDF’s only asset is that it is cheap.
And i have seen a blown out corner due to the screws used instead of clamps.
dave
ahhhhhhh.... FOIL and DUCT TAPE and FIBERGLAS.... oh my.... MEMORIES...LOL... BDBD/2022
Im going through some memories right now 💩 with the current build
"MDF’s only asset is that it is cheap"
Correct on that, my local supplier thinks his ply is gilded in gold😢
Dont agree on the screwed n glued joint that's more about poor assembly technique, I've seen sub boxes used for jack stands before(yes sheer stupidity).
Although glued then doweled after is almost unbreakable plus its way easier for the inexperienced
Im going through some memories right now 💩 with the current build
"MDF’s only asset is that it is cheap"
Correct on that, my local supplier thinks his ply is gilded in gold😢
Dont agree on the screwed n glued joint that's more about poor assembly technique, I've seen sub boxes used for jack stands before(yes sheer stupidity).
Although glued then doweled after is almost unbreakable plus its way easier for the inexperienced
Glueing and screwing is a traditional assembly technique. While it isn't always necessary depending on the materials and methods used, there's nothing wrong with it.
Im late to afvise you to use bright coloured carpet to avoid heating of both sub and car in general.
Absolute airtightness is optimal for soundquality. This goes for bassreflex and sealed as well.
Next car go for aperiodic vent. -Best of both Worlds.
If you predrill and use the right screws Its perfectly fine. Sharp threads are nice. I have a lot of furniturescrews from Ikea particle board cupboard.
Cheers!
Absolute airtightness is optimal for soundquality. This goes for bassreflex and sealed as well.
Next car go for aperiodic vent. -Best of both Worlds.
If you predrill and use the right screws Its perfectly fine. Sharp threads are nice. I have a lot of furniturescrews from Ikea particle board cupboard.
Cheers!
Absolute air-tightness isn't likely possible but it wouldn't allow the woofer to return to center after the woofers were played at high power for a long time. The interior air in the enclosure will get hot and expand. I've pulled woofers out that were so hot that they were difficult to hold (on the magnet).
Absolute air-tightness isn't likely possible but it wouldn't allow the woofer to return to center
Huh? air can be compressed... why do we call sealed enclosures "acoustic suspension" it needs to be sealed to work properly, yeah sure its not going to stand up to 200bar like a air compressor tank, the pressure generated by a big cone and large excursion in a small enclosure would barely get above atmo
Huh? air can be compressed... why do we call sealed enclosures "acoustic suspension" it needs to be sealed to work properly, yeah sure its not going to stand up to 200bar like a air compressor tank, the pressure generated by a big cone and large excursion in a small enclosure would barely get above atmo
as CABINETS go.... REAL ones are made using MARINE PLY.... $$$$$..... As MDF goes ME PERSONALLY..... I built a tremendous amount of cabinets in CARS using PARTICLE BOARD. Cheap and strong when glued and screwed the TRICK is to PAINT them inside and out PRIOR to covering thus locking out any MOISTURE. I live in HAWAII..... In the middle of the Pacific Ocean so yes HUMIDITY, RAIN, and MOISTURE here abounds. Early on I noticed the issues with particle board when it gets wet. SO... paint that damn thing. Later I started using MDF as it was the NEW THING.... BUT to be honest MDF comes across as multiple sheets of PAPER glued together. PAPER that can EXPAND and easily SPLIT. YUCK..... I stopped building boxes when the pre made ones came along and I actually own a pre made box that I installed in my Firebird. DECENT box... MDF construct BUT I dont think it was SCREWED so I added some just because. For whatever reason I never really used Marine Ply for cars... just for PA system cabs etc... cause they MOVE a lot. Anything else would fall apart under the stress of transportation etc....... My take on wood and speaker cabs... BDBD/2022
So long as you are having FUN..... It's all that really matters... BDBD/2022