I wonder how choped carbon fiber and epoxy would work ? By the way that phillips
driver I posted a picture of has no mountion screw holes anyone know where I can
get the clips that were used for these?
driver I posted a picture of has no mountion screw holes anyone know where I can
get the clips that were used for these?
woody, I am assuming those would be rear-mounted, so sink mount clips, such as:
Kingston Brass KUHDWR10 Heavy Duty Under Mount Sink Clip from the Gourmetier Collection
and substitute suitable wood screws.
Kingston Brass KUHDWR10 Heavy Duty Under Mount Sink Clip from the Gourmetier Collection
and substitute suitable wood screws.
Any recommendations/advice on the use of these materials.
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Bought it a car audio tuning centre, absorbs vibrations and rolling sounds... It's made out of a composite aluminium with a sticky bitumenus layer of 2mm. The foam cover is similar to the ring supplied with new fostex drivers. I added it on the aluminium layer. Good idea?
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Oh, and is there a iBIB calculator that works if i change the wood width. The one i could find changes the cutting dimensions into "name" after I change the width. The xl file is not secured.
Thanks!
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Bought it a car audio tuning centre, absorbs vibrations and rolling sounds... It's made out of a composite aluminium with a sticky bitumenus layer of 2mm. The foam cover is similar to the ring supplied with new fostex drivers. I added it on the aluminium layer. Good idea?
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
Oh, and is there a iBIB calculator that works if i change the wood width. The one i could find changes the cutting dimensions into "name" after I change the width. The xl file is not secured.
Thanks!
I'd avoid making the maget diameter any larger. Otherwise it will work to damp but not much to shape.
dave
dave
I know this is partially off subject but what about painting the inside of a speaker enclosure (or OB) including the bracing with SR500. Then installing a lair of felt or something similar. Would an enclosure benefit from the added SR500?
If you build a box based on my philosophy, you are adding lots of mass with little increase in stiffness.
Now if you were to paint the inside with some sort of thin expoxy that seeps into the enclosure material and stiffens it while adding little mass, that might well work out
good.
At some point i'm going to try that with VERY dry western red cedar. It should create a stiff constrained layer construction with a chaotic boundary between layers.
dave
Now if you were to paint the inside with some sort of thin expoxy that seeps into the enclosure material and stiffens it while adding little mass, that might well work out
good.
At some point i'm going to try that with VERY dry western red cedar. It should create a stiff constrained layer construction with a chaotic boundary between layers.
dave
That is what i planned on using at 1st, but it was pointed out that if it penetrates deeply it may never get a chance to dry.
dave
dave
bang on. you need some kind of catalytic varnish I would imagine. thinned epoxy 'varnish' may work out well (this is what im planning to try) and i would practice on some scraps of material to get the right thinner/epoxy mix so that it is absorbed, BUT dries in a reasonable time.
To much ductseal?
I am new to this tweak so I am starting on a cheap pair of rs 40-1272d
the only ductseal I coul find was a brand called Master it comes in a tub and cannot be manipulated like clay but it is actually pretty easy to work with. My question is is it alright to go all the way up and over the magnet and back of the speaker with it. This suff takes a while to set up
I am new to this tweak so I am starting on a cheap pair of rs 40-1272d
the only ductseal I coul find was a brand called Master it comes in a tub and cannot be manipulated like clay but it is actually pretty easy to work with. My question is is it alright to go all the way up and over the magnet and back of the speaker with it. This suff takes a while to set up
I am considering this on my Visaton B200.
Is the duct seal going to help the cast basket? I would assume the silent running would be beneficial as well, but am thinking that product is of more benefit to stamped than cast frames.
As well, what kinds of treatment would be good on a Goldwood 1858 basket? Thing rings like a teenagers cell phone.
Is the duct seal going to help the cast basket? I would assume the silent running would be beneficial as well, but am thinking that product is of more benefit to stamped than cast frames.
As well, what kinds of treatment would be good on a Goldwood 1858 basket? Thing rings like a teenagers cell phone.
Stamped baskets probably benefit the most, but there may be cast baskets that can be helped as well. The best way to find out is to try it for yourself. Just roll out some Duct Seal (1/8-1/4 inch thick) with your wife's best rolling pin and apply to a spoke of the basket. Then using a dowel (or maybe a pensil) tap the damped part of the basket and then another part that's not damped. Depending on what you hear you can decide if further, or any damping is needed. After you're done, be sure to leave your wife's rolling pin out where she'll be sure to see it and can clean it up! Women appreciate a thoughtful husband.
Best Regards,
TerryO
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Yes, yes. Ductseal will damp and shape. Silent running will damp, shape and stiffen. You can sand and finish it to a level where it could have come out of the factory that way. Ductsealed you want to hide it in the box. Ductseal is reversible. It takes 15-30 min to do the ductseal, est 30-60 days to do the silent running (if you do some daily). Lots of potential for creating a mess with the silent running -- i would seal up the basket openings before proceeding.
dave
Thanks for the replies...
Dave (planet10) - My neighbor has some B200 that you duct sealed and phase plugged. I cannot make any comparisons due to the multitude of differences and my sheer laziness in trying mine at his place. He was my inspiration, and since nude and open baffle, I feel damping may be key as the basket isn't really coupled to anything.
TerryO - I just bought four 18" woofers... a wife I have not haha. And if I was lucky enough to find one that would let me buy four 18" woofers, I'd hopefully be lucky enough to also win the lottery, or afford better drivers than the GW 😉
Dave (planet10) - My neighbor has some B200 that you duct sealed and phase plugged. I cannot make any comparisons due to the multitude of differences and my sheer laziness in trying mine at his place. He was my inspiration, and since nude and open baffle, I feel damping may be key as the basket isn't really coupled to anything.
TerryO - I just bought four 18" woofers... a wife I have not haha. And if I was lucky enough to find one that would let me buy four 18" woofers, I'd hopefully be lucky enough to also win the lottery, or afford better drivers than the GW 😉
Has anyone tried Sugru, its a self setting silicone rubber used for almost any purpose, I have used it in many applications but am new to the speaker thing so, Just a thought.
That is interesting. It could be used fro shaping, but not sure about its damping properties. Also would be a bit concerned about its failure by isopropynol. It also is fairly expensive if you need to use lots.
dave
I have a set of FE126En That I will try sugru with, cost should be acceptable given the size of the speakers. I am also very interested in the EnABL concept that I see going around on here and I'm trying to piece together what information I can before I attempt anything.
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