Is that a HR90 horn in the there? I was about to buy a pair, when the guy mentioned 600 euro for a pair...I just gave up 😱
You're welcome!
Have you listened to them with the horns disconnected? Without being there hearing this 'dullness', the only other thing that comes to mind is the woofers are Altec ER-15L IIRC, so ~60-6 kHz means a lot of XO overlap even at 1.6 kHz.
As a general rule WRT old speakers, especially prosound, is to replace the caps unless obviously ~new and of known good quality, clean or replace any pots, 'suspect' wiring. Recommend inexpensive PIO motor run caps at minimum, especially if tube driven, if their size doesn't pose a major problem.
Me too!
Makes sense due to the upward tilt to the horn's response. With floor/stage monitors, folks normally space them up till they find the 'sweet spot' and add/make a box fill with anything from woofers to magazines. The main thing is to have no cavity resonances.
GM
barackuda: The datasheet says these are actually DH2010-A - I do not know if that is the driver or driver+horn combination. The horn itself is a very nice large 90x40 CD horn.
GM: I already have the correct value motor run caps (I like to use them) and will replace all I can. I will also remove the fuse from the HF circuit as it is not needed, the fuse holder with the 5mm diameter glass fuse may be a part of the problem. The woofers sound identical to my ear without the horns. Even if I fail to get them to HiFi level, these will make perfect garden party speakers (maybe even without subwoofers). The former owner installed wheels on the bottom of the cabinet, so they are really easy to move around.
GM: I already have the correct value motor run caps (I like to use them) and will replace all I can. I will also remove the fuse from the HF circuit as it is not needed, the fuse holder with the 5mm diameter glass fuse may be a part of the problem. The woofers sound identical to my ear without the horns. Even if I fail to get them to HiFi level, these will make perfect garden party speakers (maybe even without subwoofers). The former owner installed wheels on the bottom of the cabinet, so they are really easy to move around.
The sound is back! I replaced the caps and some wires, one of the tweeter wires was almost broken off, so that might be a part of the dull sound.
The M-50 drivers are not as good as the originals in these horns, I needed quite a bit of EQ, but will serve until I get the replacement diaphragms for the EVs.
A funny thing happened - I forgot to turn off the UICWs I had in a box at the floor. One was pointing to the front and the other one to the side. Together with these the sound was even better, I think they provided some ambience. The next step will be to try out the BMR ambience speakers, delayed and placed behind the main speakers. This "incident" promises interesting results🙂
The M-50 drivers are not as good as the originals in these horns, I needed quite a bit of EQ, but will serve until I get the replacement diaphragms for the EVs.
A funny thing happened - I forgot to turn off the UICWs I had in a box at the floor. One was pointing to the front and the other one to the side. Together with these the sound was even better, I think they provided some ambience. The next step will be to try out the BMR ambience speakers, delayed and placed behind the main speakers. This "incident" promises interesting results🙂
for those old enough to remember - ever go to a drive-in theater and hear a whole lot of speakers hanging on their stands, playing at once ? 😀
And I also discovered the source of distortion. The coil is partly torn away from the diaphragm. It cannot be seen by eye and I was careful not to damage it when I opened the driver for the first time, so I did not touch it. For the second time I gently tried to find out if the coil was loose, but the former showed a gap. Something like 1/3 is loose. Is it worth trying to fix by superglue?
Sure! I ~regularly had the same problem with my Altec ultralites from the 604E that turned out couldn't handle driving big horns except at low power, though used regular super glue. The former was so thin and appeared to be super glued from the factory that it never occurred to me to try Gel, though even it wouldn't have saved them from a lightning strike. 🙁
Anyway, good luck with it.
GM
Thinking about this in the background for a long time. The plastic front is cracked on the faulty driver, so maybe that is a part of the problem. Chinese replacement diaphragm was terrible, it would not even fit without some serious filing. Maybe it is time to try a 3D printed replacement of the front part or just get a new original driver.
I just had an idea to measure some impedance.
Green is the good piece and orange is the bad piece, both measured on an identical horn. I saw this before... https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...oot-cause-can-be-repaired.342745/post-5915906
Very similar sort change in impedance - and same sound symptoms - the damaged unit played softer and with lots of distortion. The funny thing is I bought both these and the Deltas in a similar time and they both failed some week or two of using them. I guess that this is just a coincidence... So I think the DH3 cannot be repaired by a new membrane and needs to be replaced. Could this be a failure in the magnetic circuit? Some sort of demagnetization, maybe?
Green is the good piece and orange is the bad piece, both measured on an identical horn. I saw this before... https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...oot-cause-can-be-repaired.342745/post-5915906
Very similar sort change in impedance - and same sound symptoms - the damaged unit played softer and with lots of distortion. The funny thing is I bought both these and the Deltas in a similar time and they both failed some week or two of using them. I guess that this is just a coincidence... So I think the DH3 cannot be repaired by a new membrane and needs to be replaced. Could this be a failure in the magnetic circuit? Some sort of demagnetization, maybe?
Is this IWISTAO empty horn shell suitable for 1 inch throat hole of super tweeter? Thanks!