I have an EV EVM 15l laying around (got it from my dad).
Is there any way that I can build a sub out of this that at least goes to 30hz?
Or should I rather sell it and buy another driver?
Would someone on this forum like to swap?
Is there any way that I can build a sub out of this that at least goes to 30hz?
Or should I rather sell it and buy another driver?
Would someone on this forum like to swap?
Thanks bjorno for taking the time and calvulating this for me!
I have some questions however...
Did you calculate this with the parameters of the loudspeaker?
What happens if you do not put it in the corner? (have no free corner)
Is the first diagramm the enclosure and how deep is it??
Sorry if I dont get it, I am a bit of a noob.
Oh, and what happens if I do not use the highpass?
Will I have too much excursion?
Thanks ,
Leon
I have some questions however...
Did you calculate this with the parameters of the loudspeaker?
What happens if you do not put it in the corner? (have no free corner)
Is the first diagramm the enclosure and how deep is it??
Sorry if I dont get it, I am a bit of a noob.
Oh, and what happens if I do not use the highpass?
Will I have too much excursion?
Thanks ,
Leon
Hi leonbed,
Bjorno's design is called an OD-MLTL (offset driver mass-loaded transmission line). Here are two threads for this type of design:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/223358-lab-15-design-suggestions-ht-use.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...ded-transmission-line-od-ml-tl-design-bj.html
Bjorno used Hornresp software to simulate the enclosure, and he used the manufacturer's datasheet T/S parameters (there is no value given for Le, so he set that @ 1mH).
It will work even away from a corner, but you'll loose SPL.
The first diagram is indeed a schematic representation of the enclosure, as to the physical dimensions: you have to design the enclosure from the schematic; e.g.: the stub pointing to the right is a duct that leads to the transmission line terminus (port opening), this could be a flat slot, or a pipe (in his example about 19cm I.D. and 20cm long.)
The driver has an Xmax of only 3.3mm, so it takes very little power the exceed this value particularly @ low frequencies. Any enclosure without a sealed small back chamber for the driver will have rising diaphragm excursion below the box resonance, and will very quickly (with little power) get to the point of excursion damage; especially a mid-woofer forced into subwoofer duty.
You need to add where you want to use the subwoofer, and what your SPL expectations are.
Regards,
Bjorno's design is called an OD-MLTL (offset driver mass-loaded transmission line). Here are two threads for this type of design:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/223358-lab-15-design-suggestions-ht-use.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...ded-transmission-line-od-ml-tl-design-bj.html
Bjorno used Hornresp software to simulate the enclosure, and he used the manufacturer's datasheet T/S parameters (there is no value given for Le, so he set that @ 1mH).
It will work even away from a corner, but you'll loose SPL.
The first diagram is indeed a schematic representation of the enclosure, as to the physical dimensions: you have to design the enclosure from the schematic; e.g.: the stub pointing to the right is a duct that leads to the transmission line terminus (port opening), this could be a flat slot, or a pipe (in his example about 19cm I.D. and 20cm long.)
The driver has an Xmax of only 3.3mm, so it takes very little power the exceed this value particularly @ low frequencies. Any enclosure without a sealed small back chamber for the driver will have rising diaphragm excursion below the box resonance, and will very quickly (with little power) get to the point of excursion damage; especially a mid-woofer forced into subwoofer duty.
You need to add where you want to use the subwoofer, and what your SPL expectations are.
Regards,
I would use the sub from about 100-120 hz down to as low as it goes (20hz would be the best but 30 is OK)
I already said that I could also sell the driver, which I would expect to sell for 80-100€ and then buy a sub driver
I would like to have it LOUD in my ~30m^2 room, dont know how much decibels that are though.
If someone wants to swap it directly I could also do that,
maybe create a new thread specific to that.
Is it worth it to use this driver as a sub or should I sell it?
Its useless if I build a box and it only works quiet or not deep at all.
Thanks,
Leon
I already said that I could also sell the driver, which I would expect to sell for 80-100€ and then buy a sub driver
I would like to have it LOUD in my ~30m^2 room, dont know how much decibels that are though.
If someone wants to swap it directly I could also do that,
maybe create a new thread specific to that.
Is it worth it to use this driver as a sub or should I sell it?
Its useless if I build a box and it only works quiet or not deep at all.
Thanks,
Leon
You have a very loud PA woofer, not a quiet subwoofer, different thing.
Not that deep by any means but for "normal" Bass:skullcrunching.
I wonder where will you get program containing 30 Hz frequencies though.
Not that deep by any means but for "normal" Bass:skullcrunching.
I wonder where will you get program containing 30 Hz frequencies though.
Well, I have some electronic music that goes lower than the 35 hz that my current subwoofer is going down to.
If you say that it will be loud...
Then I only need to understand the schematic of the enclosure and build it...
It is not going to be an easy enclosure to build from what I understand though.
If you say that it will be loud...
Then I only need to understand the schematic of the enclosure and build it...
It is not going to be an easy enclosure to build from what I understand though.
EVX150A.gif gif by dkleitsch | Photobucket
A similar solution for a tapped horn could be found for your driver.
What kind of LF cut-off are you looking for?
A similar solution for a tapped horn could be found for your driver.
What kind of LF cut-off are you looking for?
30Hz.
In terms of LF output, you could beat it with a JBL GTO1214.
The EV driver is high efficiency and has a small Xmax, meaning it was meant for midbass use, probably tuned to 70Hz or so. Lots of kick, not much deep bass. Using it for deep bass will use up the available cone excursion very quickly. It might be enough for you - a 15" cone is pretty big, so you'll be moving quite a lot of air anyway.
What's your current setup?
Does it go loud enough?
Chris
Hi leonbed,
Here is a smaller solution, a simple vented box (BR, bass-reflex). It would be about V_net=5ft^3 w/ a 6"I.D. x 10"long duct. This would be more than enough for me, even at low power. But you may have other ideas. 🙂 You will have to add a HP filter.
Regards,
Here is a smaller solution, a simple vented box (BR, bass-reflex). It would be about V_net=5ft^3 w/ a 6"I.D. x 10"long duct. This would be more than enough for me, even at low power. But you may have other ideas. 🙂 You will have to add a HP filter.
Regards,
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The 15l is a classic but outdated. I think the used market for the EV is decent so I would sell it and I bet you can do far better.
DJK, you never disappoint. That is one heck of a design! Maybe a "little" big... 😀
DJK, you never disappoint. That is one heck of a design! Maybe a "little" big... 😀
Agreed, and the 15 B (Bass guitar) is a much better bass speaker than the 15L (Lead guitar) speaker. They both use the same hard parts, but the "L" cone folds up like a cheap suit when horn loaded below around 80 Hz...
Que memories of barrooms and concerts in the 1970s and 1980s and Bill Batson reconing torn up 15Ls...
Art
Yeah, that is a little too big... (just looking at the litres)
But where are the measurements for the cabinets on hornresp ?
I think I would either build the cabinet that bjorno calculated or I would sell the driver.
If I would build the BR I think it wouldnt be better than my current sub SPL wise so I could just keep that.
I will open a swap thread to see if someone has a good driver to swap it with.
Hi leonbed,
The EVM15L Series II was "outdated" in the nineties by its younger version, EVM15L ProLine. None of series 'like' a low tuning and drop like rock below 70Hz. You can recone a Series II with a ProLine cone but it still won't be a subwoofer. Also knowing it is wanted on the vintage guitar amp market or as replacement for an old Dynacord CL, CS or E-series, selling or trading seems more valuable.
Looking at some comments it is perhaps worth mentioning that the EVM15L Pro-Line can't be compared with its predecessors. Improved cone composition, adhesives, VC coating, former, spider and a doubling of the power make it an useful midbass woofer, even today. The lightweight cone is capable of delivering a high sensitive, punchy and defined midbass sound for tops. The Xmax of 3.3mm is 'conservative' and with today’s formula it would be rated 5.8 mm and with a realistic output of 128 dB @ 1m. Nice examples are tops of the awarded Dynacord Alpha ("king of clubs"), V-1/60 and V-1/90, produced between 2004 and 2014(?) of which today, many are still in (professional) use.
Cheers,
Djim
The EVM15L Series II was "outdated" in the nineties by its younger version, EVM15L ProLine. None of series 'like' a low tuning and drop like rock below 70Hz. You can recone a Series II with a ProLine cone but it still won't be a subwoofer. Also knowing it is wanted on the vintage guitar amp market or as replacement for an old Dynacord CL, CS or E-series, selling or trading seems more valuable.
Looking at some comments it is perhaps worth mentioning that the EVM15L Pro-Line can't be compared with its predecessors. Improved cone composition, adhesives, VC coating, former, spider and a doubling of the power make it an useful midbass woofer, even today. The lightweight cone is capable of delivering a high sensitive, punchy and defined midbass sound for tops. The Xmax of 3.3mm is 'conservative' and with today’s formula it would be rated 5.8 mm and with a realistic output of 128 dB @ 1m. Nice examples are tops of the awarded Dynacord Alpha ("king of clubs"), V-1/60 and V-1/90, produced between 2004 and 2014(?) of which today, many are still in (professional) use.
Cheers,
Djim
So you say that even if I build bjornos enclosure it will drop like a rock below 70 hz?
Oh, btw, the 15l is out of a Zeck 3-way stage monitor.
I think it is odd that they used the 15l though, not the 15b.
My Dad has a pair of them and one of the 15l blew.
So he exchanged both of the woofers to get deeper bass out of them.
Thats also why it says "Zeck by EV" on the dust cap.
Leon
Leon,
The curvilinear come of the 15L produces more midrange than the 15B, so tends to sound better. In retrospect, much of the "better" sound was harmonic distortion (again, the L stands for Lead guitar).
The sound company I owned (and designed all the speaker cabinets for) from 1979 to 1992 used 15L in all the floor monitors (but 15B in the drum monitors and side fills), though my brother used 15Bs in his rental monitors. The 15B conical cone is a lot stiffer than the ribbed 15L.
Art
I saw alot of guys getting the 2 mixed up when I was looking for them. Often times a 15B was being sold but mistakenly referred to as an L since I think the L is more desirable and popular. A good side by side pic in here: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/should-i-get-an-evm-15l-or-15b.301982/
I am willing to wager you might actually have a B. I have a pair of B's in some bass horns and they are definitely not what I would call subs. Killer mid bass tho.
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/should-i-get-an-evm-15l-or-15b.301982/
I am willing to wager you might actually have a B. I have a pair of B's in some bass horns and they are definitely not what I would call subs. Killer mid bass tho.
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/should-i-get-an-evm-15l-or-15b.301982/
As I understand it the B has no ribs while the L has.
My cone has ribs, so I think it is an EV EVM 15l
Just to add to the confusion, I have a pair of EVM15L's in 80Hz horns (similar to Edgarhorns) One has the ribbed cone, one has been re-coned with a non ribbed cone. They measure very similar in the horns.
As there are a few comments about these drivers being out dated and worse than current drivers, I'd like to ask what currently available drivers will out perform them in my horns ?
Rob.
As there are a few comments about these drivers being out dated and worse than current drivers, I'd like to ask what currently available drivers will out perform them in my horns ?
Rob.
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