Yes i'm not looking forward to it at all, but i wanna get them going so i will give it a try with a little help of my friends ;-). And i might be going in to you offer for the transformers later on because it looks like those are not original either .
Is it possible that those transformers are the problem and not the the coating, otherwise i would rather try them with the correct transformers first before taking them apart.
Ow and do you know the values of the capacitors and resistors that go on the transformers aslo maybe ?
Is it possible that those transformers are the problem and not the the coating, otherwise i would rather try them with the correct transformers first before taking them apart.
Ow and do you know the values of the capacitors and resistors that go on the transformers aslo maybe ?
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i dont know the values and i dont have the trannies at hand, so i have to buy them myself. its a risk you might wanna take. or not thats up to you. on the other hand a few trannies can be used later on when you decide to make something yourself
We just tried the trannies on a set of other panels and they work, so this means it must be the panels, so the next step is taking them apart and see what we can do about it 🙂.
I just pic up a pr of dead ...Audiostat ESl 100....look great but were over driven.. a 5. cent fuse my not have added to better sound...but would have saved the speakers .......... An what I fear is the same thing your looking at...the wire covering near the mylar is cracket..an is leeking /arcing to the bias coating on the panels...an killing the output...
I have tried other outboard bias...on the panels an ran the stock trans on other panels...work like you say work fine..an have even tried other step trans....vary low to no output....
Sucks...killing me to look at them...look like new as you see..
but $50. for the pr...but still...good luck an thanks for the info an your findings...I have been coating with Nail polish .....some leeks on the wire.. I found were wire bens on the bottem....but stop there it made no diff....so far
I have tried other outboard bias...on the panels an ran the stock trans on other panels...work like you say work fine..an have even tried other step trans....vary low to no output....
Sucks...killing me to look at them...look like new as you see..
but $50. for the pr...but still...good luck an thanks for the info an your findings...I have been coating with Nail polish .....some leeks on the wire.. I found were wire bens on the bottem....but stop there it made no diff....so far
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I have had no arking at all not even with 7Kv on the panels, just no volume.
Started a little bit with one panel yesterday they seem to be stuck together with silicone kit, very dificult to open them, and it seems like there is a track going diagonal over the metaal stators that seems to be stuck to the mylar aswell. So to get the stators of without breaking the mylar seems very unlikely.
I was hoping to just open them up , clean them and recoat and then give them a second try but now i think i will need to replace the mylar swell, thats going to be a first time for me .
Started a little bit with one panel yesterday they seem to be stuck together with silicone kit, very dificult to open them, and it seems like there is a track going diagonal over the metaal stators that seems to be stuck to the mylar aswell. So to get the stators of without breaking the mylar seems very unlikely.
I was hoping to just open them up , clean them and recoat and then give them a second try but now i think i will need to replace the mylar swell, thats going to be a first time for me .
As for the arking...I cant see any in the dark...only other thing...the two panels at the same time lost all...I mean all there coating at the same time...not likey.
an like you... mylar rip looks likey if pulled apart...I do work on M logan medel panels...when thay get a crack in the panel paint
thay turn off the same way....keep up the good work
an like you... mylar rip looks likey if pulled apart...I do work on M logan medel panels...when thay get a crack in the panel paint
thay turn off the same way....keep up the good work
If there is any loss on the coating of red wires remains to be seen, when there pried open i will be able to tell .
there is silicone on only one side of the panel, knock the aluminum bars from the HPL with a hammer. you can then remove the complete stator from its frame. it will keep your mylar intact. you can then coat it. and hopefully the graphite line that comes front he red wire is still there so it will connect to the HV. if it is gone you have to replace the mylar to, because you need to get the panels apart to get behind the HPL strips.
give me a call if you need any help or my explanation is hard to follow 🙂
give me a call if you need any help or my explanation is hard to follow 🙂
**** , this stator looks weird, normally its a frame of pertinax/hpl then aluminum crossbars with the wires attached. so you can hit the aluminum and take everything off. this looks different 🙁
Its not hard to follow 🙂, but what aluminium bars do you mean ? The ones that are across the red wires horizontally the black ones in my case. I think that thats the only thing keeping the red wires together so iwould feel taking those off would be the end of the wire frame / the end of the speakers .
normal they are silver and are the horizontal bars that hold the wires in place, you can get them lose and remove all the bars with all the wires attached. but you must only remove one side or the whole thing collapses. so you must know witch side is the side with the coating. its a tricky thing to do, but yeah what do you have to lose. the worse case would be replacing the foil, witch is no fun anyways
AHH , ok now its clear, we started yesterday with taking of 1of the strips on the side off the panel thats basically on top of the foil, but it sounds like there is no need for that, ust take off the metal wires one side to reach the foil voor recoating, so we went off at the wrong foot so to speak ,lol
Well we did it and of course the mylar was broken, specialy because it was glued on some kind of strip in the middle of the panels, so no way ever to take them apart without breaking the mylar. The mylar also feels pretty thick by the way.
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Ow and the horizontal bars are made of wood and not aluminium. And unfortunately some of the black strips broke aswell , does anybody know were i can order that stuff and what kind of material it might be ?
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I think it turns out a loss cause, rather build it from scratch ?
normaly they used pertinax and aluminium bars 10x10 i believe. nothing made out of wood in the original.
HPL or also known under brand name Trespa is almost the same as pertinax but without the hard surface coating
normaly they used pertinax and aluminium bars 10x10 i believe. nothing made out of wood in the original.
HPL or also known under brand name Trespa is almost the same as pertinax but without the hard surface coating
Hey Wrinex, yeah the only thing luckaly in tact are the copper strips, so we can re use those but the rest have we have to probably rebuilt completely , it's a challenge but we won't give up 😉, I'll go and search for the Trespa/ Pertinax then so we can start the rebuild.
I also noticed that there are no stickers with serial nummers on the housing, the only thing that matches up with the known originals are the bass speakers,lol.
I also noticed that there are no stickers with serial nummers on the housing, the only thing that matches up with the known originals are the bass speakers,lol.
a little bit off topic, but to get a ltittle practice with the mylar we are going to put some on this old set op esl's that are pretty small around 60cm.
I got them as a gift like 10 years ago and i have no clue about the brand or anything about them, anybody seen these before maybe ?
I got them as a gift like 10 years ago and i have no clue about the brand or anything about them, anybody seen these before maybe ?
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Yesterday we put new mylar on the bleu panels and then glued the mylar with bison polymax kit , and to our surprise the mylar/foil did not stick at all to the polymax, we could just rip it loose with out even thering it.
Any ideas why this happens, it dried for 10 hours?
Any ideas why this happens, it dried for 10 hours?
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