Indeed , first 2 now done , made some mistakes on the way,. but two more to go so hopefully these will go well the first time 🙂.
Hi All i have a strange problem with the sombetszki's .
We have put new foil with coating on the frames but somehow now when we put the power on it the foil goes and sticks to one side of the stators, only when we take down the power of the HV a litle it will unstick.
We can not figure out why this is happening with the new foil and not with the old ones, any ideas ?
We have put new foil with coating on the frames but somehow now when we put the power on it the foil goes and sticks to one side of the stators, only when we take down the power of the HV a litle it will unstick.
We can not figure out why this is happening with the new foil and not with the old ones, any ideas ?
it might be one of the connections of the stators is not connected to the transformer ? i will cause unbalance and the mylar will prefer one side to stick at.
Another option , more plausible is that the tension on the mylar is to weak, in combination with to high high voltage on the mylar. if you used the HV from the audiostatic this might be way to high for the small panel since the distance from stator wires to mylar might be smaller. audiostatic also used dots of silicone in the middle of there panels to counter this behavior without raising the resonance to much. try using a voltage further down the line of the hV supply. to get a lower HV voltage
Look at a HV cockroft walton schematic where to attach the lead to the mylar, 1 or maybe 2 steps down the multiplier to reduce high voltage. care must be take, try to get rid of any power stored in the caps by shorting it or attach to a grounded lead. (ground from wallsocket or a heater radiator)
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Hey Wrinex, we used the original sombs power units, when attaching a panel witch we did not re-foil this aint happening on the same voltage, lucky enough there is a small potmeter to reduce the power on the transformer itself.
The cales to the stators seem to be in order aswell so that leaves the tension on the mylar, but when pressing on the old foil and comparing it with the new, it does not feel like its weaker .
Could it also be possible that with the new foil and coating the HV moves much better on the mylar then with the ols ones and that that is the reason why we have to take the HV down for it to unstick ?
The cales to the stators seem to be in order aswell so that leaves the tension on the mylar, but when pressing on the old foil and comparing it with the new, it does not feel like its weaker .
Could it also be possible that with the new foil and coating the HV moves much better on the mylar then with the ols ones and that that is the reason why we have to take the HV down for it to unstick ?
yeah you prob replaced the mylar for a reason, if the old one had shitty coating that did not hold charge anymore it could not stick to the stator either. 🙂
A bit offtopic but i bought a set of ESH-50 and they seem to be out of balance, only noticed this after i bought them unfortunately , my Question is, are these panels made in a way so that you can open them with out breaking the mylar so i can clean them and put new coating on them ? It looks like it will be very difficult to reproduce the mylar with the dots of silicon on them.
And an extra question, i would also like to rebuilt the bandpass off the ESH-50 /100 to use with the other esl'si have here, the bass of those is pretty decent. so are there any measurements / drawings on these available maybe ?
And an extra question, i would also like to rebuilt the bandpass off the ESH-50 /100 to use with the other esl'si have here, the bass of those is pretty decent. so are there any measurements / drawings on these available maybe ?
Lol, they were working actually we did it to see if we could get more volume out of them with new mylar and coating but so far the diffrence is pretty small compaerd to the old ones.
The only good thing so far is that we are getting a lot of practice with the mylar 🙂.
one side of the esl does not have silicone between mylar and wires, this is the side you can remove by hitting each alumnium crossbar with a hammer where it is glued to the pertinax (do it gently just tap them). it will come off. you can easily remove all the wires with the bars, dont bend them ofcourse. as far a i know all audiostatics have the coating on the side where there are NO silicone dots. so this means you can remove the wires with bars recoat them without destroying everything..
But if the graphite lead they drawn on the mylar is gone , coating might not work since the copper strip that connects the coating to the HV supply is sandwiched between the pertinax frames. and you cant replace that without destroying the mylar when you split them.
Great Info Wrinex thank you very much. As soon as i find the courage to try it i will let you know how it goes 🙂.
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