Just need to make sure the tip is clean and well tinned - I use a damp sponge and that course wire wool stuff.
Life just isn't complete without solder wick - I use 2 widths for SMD - 1.5mm and 2.5mm. When soldering something like the WM8804, I find the best method is to flood solder the pins, then wick off the excess, which should also get rid of any bridges. Be VERY careful not to let the wick "freeze" to the chip pins or pads - Just keep the solder molten and the wick moving.
You will almost certainly want some additional flux - I use a gel flux and apply it with a syringe - Use plenty because the flux in cored solder burns off quickly.
Good luck - Ken
Life just isn't complete without solder wick - I use 2 widths for SMD - 1.5mm and 2.5mm. When soldering something like the WM8804, I find the best method is to flood solder the pins, then wick off the excess, which should also get rid of any bridges. Be VERY careful not to let the wick "freeze" to the chip pins or pads - Just keep the solder molten and the wick moving.
You will almost certainly want some additional flux - I use a gel flux and apply it with a syringe - Use plenty because the flux in cored solder burns off quickly.
Good luck - Ken
Thank you.
Off topic: been de soldering trimming pot , and somehow ring on pcb around wiper is not visible any more.
I have checked continuity between wiper and adjacent pole and it is there (as on the rest of pots) and not sure is pcb damaged or continuity is there for a reason
Any ideas ?
P.S. Hate desoldering ...
Off topic: been de soldering trimming pot , and somehow ring on pcb around wiper is not visible any more.
I have checked continuity between wiper and adjacent pole and it is there (as on the rest of pots) and not sure is pcb damaged or continuity is there for a reason
Any ideas ?
P.S. Hate desoldering ...
Hi Ivan, Bit of a problem there - Is the PCB double sided? And which pad has lifted - Solder side or component side? If it's the component side pad thats lifted, you should be OK assuming the through plating is good. If it's the solder side, you will need to scrape and tin the trace and piece out with a short bit of wire.
Hope that makes sense.
Ken
Hope that makes sense.
Ken
Dear experts
Which bit to buy for a Subbu dac soldering works?
I am using xs25 iron from antex.
Would you please advice :
List of bits
Ivan
You should get the 5060 or 5160, the sharp tip would not give you enough metal to reach the melting point fast enough.
You can use rubbing alcohol or fingernail polish remover with an old toothbrush to clean things up before your next attempt. The investment in a good liquid flux used in addition to the flux that may be in the solder is well worth the cost. It cleans up easily as suggested above.
Mine aren't perfect but the end result should be closer to shiny bright.
I like this shape for scraping pads when necessary.
Radio Shack has a 62/36/2 silver solder that is decent and doesn't cost much.
Good Luck !
Mine aren't perfect but the end result should be closer to shiny bright.
I like this shape for scraping pads when necessary.
Radio Shack has a 62/36/2 silver solder that is decent and doesn't cost much.
Good Luck !
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ChipQuick in the syringe is my favorite. Other brands are available but the syringe is very useful. My second choice is liquid with a brush.
Whatever you use don't be afraid to use more rather than less. It all cleans up well. My work looks horrible till I do the final clean up with alcohol/toothbrush.
BTW, Dow Bathroom Cleaner (Scrubbing Bubbles) works great to remove any flux residue after the alcohol pass.
Whatever you use don't be afraid to use more rather than less. It all cleans up well. My work looks horrible till I do the final clean up with alcohol/toothbrush.
BTW, Dow Bathroom Cleaner (Scrubbing Bubbles) works great to remove any flux residue after the alcohol pass.
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