I'd use a 1-component PU or Polymer adhesive, cheaper and better than epoxy for your purpose.
(e.g. Sikaflex/Sikabond metal, even after decades a hand grenade will only dent it)
I second Michael Bean's comments. Liquid Nails is fantastic stuff; incredibly strong and very, very cheap. I always have a gun type canister of this stuff on hand and use it for all sorts of non-prescribed things. For example, laminating thinner aluminium to make a thicker faceplate for an amp. Easy clean up with mineral turpentine, too.
Aluminum is not the same as stainless steel.
(Liquid Nails is a solvent based rubber compound, which will turn brittle in time. There's a solid reason why adhesives by 3M and Sika are four times as expensive. No one in the boating business will use LN)
(Liquid Nails is a solvent based rubber compound, which will turn brittle in time. There's a solid reason why adhesives by 3M and Sika are four times as expensive. No one in the boating business will use LN)
If you decide to go the liquid nails route then the pl premium would be my choice.
Loctite PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive from Loctite Adhesives
Or solar seal.
Sealant, NPC SEALANTS Products
Loctite PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive from Loctite Adhesives
Or solar seal.
Sealant, NPC SEALANTS Products
In the early '80s, station wagons on a commercial license registration became very popular here.
Even with private individuals, it saved 27 percent on the list price, plus a thousand dollars a year in road tax for diesel/lpg types.
In order to be eligible for a commercial registration, the car had to be converted, by removing the rear seat and exchanging the rear windows for non-transparent panels.
In the beginning, the law only allowed metal panels which had to be united with the bodywork of the vehicle.
(spot)welding metal panels involved a lot of cosmetic touch-up work, so car converting companies negotiated a deal with the DMV.
Later ones had pre-formed metal or plastic rear window panels, bonded to the metal edge that used to hold the window seal with PL(PU) adhesive.
After 10-15+ years, those cars either went to the demolition yard, or across the border to places in North Africa.
Getting the PL/PU glued panels off, even after such a long period, was one H of a job.
Even with private individuals, it saved 27 percent on the list price, plus a thousand dollars a year in road tax for diesel/lpg types.
In order to be eligible for a commercial registration, the car had to be converted, by removing the rear seat and exchanging the rear windows for non-transparent panels.
In the beginning, the law only allowed metal panels which had to be united with the bodywork of the vehicle.
(spot)welding metal panels involved a lot of cosmetic touch-up work, so car converting companies negotiated a deal with the DMV.
Later ones had pre-formed metal or plastic rear window panels, bonded to the metal edge that used to hold the window seal with PL(PU) adhesive.
After 10-15+ years, those cars either went to the demolition yard, or across the border to places in North Africa.
Getting the PL/PU glued panels off, even after such a long period, was one H of a job.
3M scotch weld. It isn't cheap but I've had good results with 3m products. Try to do it nice not twice.
For a driveway I used PL to attached interlocking bricks to cement curbs at the side of the driveway. Ten years later I widened the driveway and I forcefully removed the bricks from the curbs, pieces of the curb and the interlocks broke off on both sides of the PL. This stuff is good.
Thats unfortunate. Did you try an alternative? Tile cement comes to mind here. As long as its decent quality stuff and mixed accordingly or isn't past its prime with premix that will stay together. At least until you want it apart. Even then you'll have to get medieval on it.
Epoxy is the best choice for high-porous stone as lava rock.
1 degrease/clean (there are dedicated cleaning solutions for epoxy prepping)
2 Impregnate with epoxy injector (= resin with epoxy thinner added, 2:1 mix with harder, 30 minute working-life)
3 next day, make an epoxy glue of desired thickness with fillers (e.g. glass bubbles), add color pigment (e.g. West System 423 for black lava rock)
4 work the glue inside the surface open cavities of the rock
5 attach the rock to the wood
6 remove any glue on edges with a stanley knife after 24 hours.
1+2 for both contact surfaces
(trivia : I built my first boat with West System epoxy resin in the early '70s, 16' dingy with outboard)
1 degrease/clean (there are dedicated cleaning solutions for epoxy prepping)
2 Impregnate with epoxy injector (= resin with epoxy thinner added, 2:1 mix with harder, 30 minute working-life)
3 next day, make an epoxy glue of desired thickness with fillers (e.g. glass bubbles), add color pigment (e.g. West System 423 for black lava rock)
4 work the glue inside the surface open cavities of the rock
5 attach the rock to the wood
6 remove any glue on edges with a stanley knife after 24 hours.
1+2 for both contact surfaces
(trivia : I built my first boat with West System epoxy resin in the early '70s, 16' dingy with outboard)
Yeah, but this is hardly a critical application! I have it in the shed because it's so useful and at $3 a cartridge here, it's actually 1/6th the cost of the cheapest Sikaflex product so if it goes off you haven't lost too much.
But I agree if the best is desired something like the Sika products are the go. My FIL stuck his Range Rover roof back on with the stuff, as recommended by his panel shop mate.
Sure, if home depot works, why shell out a nickel too much.
(but SS4927 was the one who started by mentioning SS. I pay ~$4/lb for new SS, no foil-protection, corporate rate, no sales tax added. At $3.70 minimum per square feet for 3/64'', not counting the hours, I'm not betting on home depot grade)
(but SS4927 was the one who started by mentioning SS. I pay ~$4/lb for new SS, no foil-protection, corporate rate, no sales tax added. At $3.70 minimum per square feet for 3/64'', not counting the hours, I'm not betting on home depot grade)
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Not HD. And extra for brushed finish. Quality went into the other material no point in skimping out on the last one, right.
"panel adhesive" from the car paint store
That is probably what was used on the station wagons at post #25 above.
That is probably what was used on the station wagons at post #25 above.
Nope, that's different stuff.
(e.g. 3M 1K-PU or Sikaflex 221, both also used in the marine world. 3M also has really fast-cure items as Windo-Weld, same same for Sika)
(e.g. 3M 1K-PU or Sikaflex 221, both also used in the marine world. 3M also has really fast-cure items as Windo-Weld, same same for Sika)
carpet tape or double sided tape. or dot dab with interior mirror bond (the stuff with the mesh). for large surfaces just plain old contact adhesive will do as long as both sided are left to dry overnight then stuck together.
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