easyDAC = NOS R-2R AD1862 DAC + Headphone Amp

There are many headphones. Everyone prefers something different - not only due to the sound but also the construction matters. I fell in love with AKG K701, whose construction I hardly modified from uncomfortable to the most comfortable :D
Another good headphones are Beyerdynamic DT 880 (250 ohm), or other brands like Beats, Marshall, Audio-Technica, Sennheiser, ... :note:
 

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Tiere is a guy writing a lot about headphones. He measures all of them, does try some more or less simple mechanical modifications and develops filters in order to overcome some shortcomings of a few headphones. Quite a read, yet it can help in searching.

Maybe it is of help: DIY-Audio-Heaven | Enjoy music through headphones on a low budget

The AKG 712 he measured, was mine :)

Cheers, Ernst
 
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Cool site Ernst... This guy is doing an awesome job !



The Fidelio X2 from Philips seems cool for the price... What sealed headphone do you like ? I am impressed by the quality of some internals ear plugs for smartphone as well ! Not sure it's good for the ears those little internal ear plugs !
 
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Iggy, glad you like it.

I really like the K712, yet it is an open HP and not suitable for under all conditions. So I had been looking a quite a while for a closed one. There are some nice expensive ones. As I can't spend so much money on a phone, I bought AKG K371. Sure, I am biased as I am Austrian, but I somehow like the sound. Nowadays they come from China, that's how it still goes. Frans has a filter in order to tame it's highs slightly and the bass is great. For 110 Euro it is more than OK for me.

Cheer's, Ernst
 
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I'm not a headphone guy though I should be as it's difficult in my situation to listen to as often and as loud I 'd like to ! My personal reference - but I know nothing in headphones- is a little Fostex 7P something - I don't remember the ref exactly-


It has something I like : not fatguing, bass are not abyssal but informatives for a cheap headphone. mid and highs are near perfect for me ! Of course not the dreamed soundstage, but the balnce between timbers and amount of information and liste,ing confort made me hapy with that less than 100 bucks headphones that was seen in the audiophile french milieu as a very good bang for the bucks ! Hummm I have too much unfinished project (still needs to climb the Miro main dac at the next level and it always ask me a lot of time to enhance a good born design to my taste and listening environment; a loudspeaker I have to finish which is my first "design", ANdrea Clock boards to finish with Ian FIDO Pi first reclocker to benchmark with my highly moded FIFO (the one before the MC, lol !)
An amp I found as a pair of BW DM14 filter I need to refurbish, etc !

Damnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn ! And the AYA 5 that is comming ! Au secours ! Tube planned on the previous one ! uH !

Ah, I like the last Black Keys Album : Delta Kream ! First it's a good album and the best reccorded they made, second Delta variant plus the word Kream is a not wanted joke that feets for us european poor victims of the panguolin plot from chineese countryside !
Damn !
Fidelio X2 ? 130 euros ?
 
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Iggy, I never was a headphone guy, yet as mentioned, in some places, listening to music is only possible with cans. My first hpa was the Whammy - I had built it before I owned headphones - and so I thought, I should try a pair K712. I was not really happy with it for a year! or so and I only used it for listening to books and spoken meditations. After this period either I was so used to its sound or the cans changed their signature, and I noticed they now shine. With a Kameleon (amp from Frans plus filter board for this HP) I was more and more into headphones. I often listen to music, my wife does not like, so this is a good way to enjoy it. Beside that with headphones it is easier for me to rate equipment.

Still I prefere more the spatious sound of my Bastanis and vintage Tannoys :)

Can't say anything about the Fidelio X2. Never heard them, just read some positive reviews about them. They seem to be good value, especially for 130 Eurodollars.

Open back cans seem to be better able to let you hear the room, or stage. Your Fostex is just semi open and probably the Fidelio might do better.

Yes, read about you'r going into tubes. Not so difficult with E88CC. You can start with simple unregulated B+ and simple regulated heater voltage. Refine it, if you like it. Don't get too much into the heavily overpriced NOS tubes of this type. Start cheap and wait for a bargain, which will show up somehow.

Hm, again lots of OT. Stop now.

Cheers, Ernst
 
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Hi guys, just wanted to mention, that I am really happy with this little gem. I has become an everyday companion. And it is like old wine. I is getting better by time - or I am getting more and more used to it ;-)
Miro have you ever thought about giving your newer mobile design a second chance?
 
Hi Ernest 🤗 I've thought about it many times and I didn't find definitive solution for:
  • how to simplify PSU? ... AD1862 needs +-12V power supply, an alternative could be AD1865 (+-5V)
  • which SMD opAmp to use for I/V, single or dual? LM6172 is dual, so one part could be used for headphones amplifier
  • PCM2706 (USB/I2S) does not support software controlled volume (in the player only), so what should I do with the potentiometer?
  • USB/I2S from STM32F401, which could be programmed to drop the glue logic and the dac would be feeded directly
  • drop the relay switch and switching audio through a mechanical switch directly
  • changing some critical capacitors for THT
 
I like DACs powered directly from USB in small case/design and I like sound based on R-2R. This was reason why this toy was created.

Here in gallery are pictures: DAC gallery

Once again small description:
  • NOS R-2R AD1862 DAC
  • LINE-out direct from I/V
  • headphone out based on TPA6120A2 with potentiometer, easily drives big headphones with a lot of power (AKG K701)
  • no additional filters (only RC)
  • no caps in series with signal line
  • switch between line or headphones (no need unplug something when I choose between headphones or amp), with relays
  • for USB/I2S conversion is used PCM2706 (on board are also pins for another I2S), simplicity, no additional drivers, I like Plug&Play and I am listening mostly in 16bits
  • power from usb is converted with isolated DC-DC DCP0205xx, regulated to +-5V for digital and AD1862 digital, +-12V for AD1862 analog and I/V, +-5V for headphones amp TPA6120A2
  • it can handle custom I/V boards in small design, +-12V
  • 4 layers board

I am not sure if it is DIY project, becase it is full of small 0805 SMD parts and few SMD ICs, board is 4-layers

Some build hints:

  • first mount USB/i2s part and test with scope if some data signals are going out from i2s
  • continue with power supply part and test, if all voltages are right
  • dont forget for thermal pad holes
  • mount DAC portion with relay, switch and I/V
  • connect it to PC and measure with scope if sine is right (or test sound directly), because in this state it must working
  • if all is right, mount headphones amp part, better if you buy 3 potentetiometers and measure them for resistance offset (left and right) in few places and choose best one (with lowest offset), dont forget carefully solder TPA6120 through thermal pad hole
  • connect it to PC and measure dc offset on headphones connector, it must be small offset, about few mV
  • if you wish, you can clean board from solder resin using isopropyl alcohol
  • I used SMD thick resistors
  • as I/V opamp choose something good, like LM6171, LME49990, ADA4898-1, and many others ...
  • if you use external USB/I2S (for example asynchronous XMOS) resistors R6, R7, R8 can be disconnected and also PCM2706 power jumper opened ... on board are pins for I2S https://ctrlv.cz/shots/2017/09/19/DGlu.png
  • output voltages can be easily set with change in feedback resistors R9,R10, or for headphones in gain R17+R18, R21+R22
  • when you use fast I/V opamp, like AD844, only to be sure - check output for oscillations, I have no oscillations
  • only to mention, here is no headphones protection circuit, so after every change in I/V measure headphones output if there is not big DC offset, must be few mV
  • in normal condition, there is no clunking in headphones when switch position is changed or device is disconnected
  • use linear potentiometer (if there is a link for logarithmic, use linear)

I need thanks to pavouk.org site from where I got I2S/PCM logic and thanks to Dohny for hint about DCP0205xx DC-DC.
Hello Miro,
I would like to know what if any problem can arise in connecting, on IC7, PIN 5 to PIN 1-2 of IC12; and PIN13 of IC12 to PIN12 of IC13.
easyDAC_1.2_01_sch.jpg