About eBay TDA1022 from Hong Kong
At least one of the Hong Kong firms on ebay selling TDA1022 chips are ignorant of ESD packaging and handling precautions and sent me some with the pins inserted into white styrofoam put inside a sealed envelope. I sent them some information to educate them about not removing the ICs from the tubes, that inserting the ICs in styrofoam ruins them, etc., but they wanted the mispackaged ICs back (to sell to some other poor soul that doesn't know any better, I suppose?). Caveat Emptor!!!
I haven't tried replacing the TDA 1022 with a MN3007 at double the clock rate, but I think it will work.
mr coffee
At least one of the Hong Kong firms on ebay selling TDA1022 chips are ignorant of ESD packaging and handling precautions and sent me some with the pins inserted into white styrofoam put inside a sealed envelope. I sent them some information to educate them about not removing the ICs from the tubes, that inserting the ICs in styrofoam ruins them, etc., but they wanted the mispackaged ICs back (to sell to some other poor soul that doesn't know any better, I suppose?). Caveat Emptor!!!
I haven't tried replacing the TDA 1022 with a MN3007 at double the clock rate, but I think it will work.
mr coffee
Hello all newbie here
Sorry from resurrecting this thread but i am a long time CLS 22 user and recently it gave up the ghost in the middle of a gig...one of the lads in the band is a sparks and had a look at it for me..he thinks it might be the bridge rectifer as we tested it and were getting some voltage readings but the unit is dead and but i don't know anyone here who could repair an old unit like this...
I saw a post from a person who said he designed this unit and seems to be based in Ireland and was hoping he might be able to help me get it back up and running as i really miss it in my rig...i use it for guitar and have been using the line 6 leslie simulation in the pod xt pro i have but it doesn't have the same depth to it
Any help appreciated
Thanks
Sorry from resurrecting this thread but i am a long time CLS 22 user and recently it gave up the ghost in the middle of a gig...one of the lads in the band is a sparks and had a look at it for me..he thinks it might be the bridge rectifer as we tested it and were getting some voltage readings but the unit is dead and but i don't know anyone here who could repair an old unit like this...
I saw a post from a person who said he designed this unit and seems to be based in Ireland and was hoping he might be able to help me get it back up and running as i really miss it in my rig...i use it for guitar and have been using the line 6 leslie simulation in the pod xt pro i have but it doesn't have the same depth to it
Any help appreciated
Thanks
Hello all.
If anyone is interested,
I build handcrafted, on request, replica "carbon copy"
of CLS 222, rotary speaker simulator effect.
Schematic and layout of electronic components are identical to the original.
The circuit is fully analog as original.
All components are NEW and NOS from reliable sources.
Metal box of 60 mm in height (approximately 1.5 rack units)
with brackets for mounting in 19" rack.
Speed settings Trebble and Bass on the front panel.
Inscriptions on panel are printed on adhesive and protected.
Inputs and outputs are on the back, with 230V socket.
I give also the dual pedal suitable for remote STOP/SLOW/FAST
in metal box with jack cable of 3 meters.
On request I can send a photo of the "prototype zero", not for sale,
but indicative of the aesthetic final product.
Thanks
If anyone is interested,
I build handcrafted, on request, replica "carbon copy"
of CLS 222, rotary speaker simulator effect.
Schematic and layout of electronic components are identical to the original.
The circuit is fully analog as original.
All components are NEW and NOS from reliable sources.
Metal box of 60 mm in height (approximately 1.5 rack units)
with brackets for mounting in 19" rack.
Speed settings Trebble and Bass on the front panel.
Inscriptions on panel are printed on adhesive and protected.
Inputs and outputs are on the back, with 230V socket.
I give also the dual pedal suitable for remote STOP/SLOW/FAST
in metal box with jack cable of 3 meters.
On request I can send a photo of the "prototype zero", not for sale,
but indicative of the aesthetic final product.
Thanks
@89strat
I am the one who designed this unit. Although I often stayed in Ireland I live most of the time in Germany.
If you want to post the CLS22 to my German address I can check the circuit with a good chance to fix it as long as I do not have to replace some obsolete chips like tda1022 or ca3280.
I am the one who designed this unit. Although I often stayed in Ireland I live most of the time in Germany.
If you want to post the CLS22 to my German address I can check the circuit with a good chance to fix it as long as I do not have to replace some obsolete chips like tda1022 or ca3280.
Voltwide,
I downloaded the schematics that you posted, but it seems that some of the circuit is missing. I was wondering if you could post the entire complete schematic. I would like to try and build the circuit from your original schematics and just wondered if you could scan the rest. Thank you so much!
Hope it's ok I'm posting to this old thread, thanks.
metalasm
I downloaded the schematics that you posted, but it seems that some of the circuit is missing. I was wondering if you could post the entire complete schematic. I would like to try and build the circuit from your original schematics and just wondered if you could scan the rest. Thank you so much!
Hope it's ok I'm posting to this old thread, thanks.
metalasm
oops, I scanned the schematic, all in all one single page, months ago and forgot to upload.
Quality is poor, due the fading original sheet from 1982 or so.
I will try to re-scan, maybe with better results.
Quality is poor, due the fading original sheet from 1982 or so.
I will try to re-scan, maybe with better results.
I just noticed that the pc board and component layout sheets were cut off at the very end in the scan. cls222_10.pdf is the component layout and cls222_11.pdf is the pc board layout. Could you please scan the part that is missing? All of the circuitry is complete besides that. After this, everything will be complete.
Big thanks once more!
Big thanks once more!
Hi to all!
I decided to build this beast, got the necessary parts on the Ebay (hope it'll work), but I have a few questions:
Listening to some youtube videos of this device and reading to some reviews it seems it colors the tone a bit, dampening the higher freq? Is there a way to mod the circuitry to make it more tonally transparent? Maybe the LPF section prior to the volume modulation section (TDA1074)? What do you think?
I'd also like to know how to set the bass and treble rotor pots to a right speed ratio?
Thanks!
Erlandson
I decided to build this beast, got the necessary parts on the Ebay (hope it'll work), but I have a few questions:
Listening to some youtube videos of this device and reading to some reviews it seems it colors the tone a bit, dampening the higher freq? Is there a way to mod the circuitry to make it more tonally transparent? Maybe the LPF section prior to the volume modulation section (TDA1074)? What do you think?
I'd also like to know how to set the bass and treble rotor pots to a right speed ratio?
Thanks!
Erlandson
These filters have been carefully designed by me at that time. Do not forget that the audio signal passes analogue bucket-brigade-delay-lines, and these produce loads of audible noise, so any "hi-cut" will reduce that. All in all this was aimed to be a natural sounding simulation of the old Leslie cabinets - and these never covered the hole audio band. I am quite sure that there is very little headroom for sound enhancement due to the restriction of the BBDs. S/N is about 60..70dB, similar to analogue tape machine. Additional noise reduction with companders like NE570/571/572 is a no-go imho. Extended testing convinced me that the noise reduction must be paid with well audible inacceptable destruction of dynamic behaviour. Anyway, feel free to alter or bypass these filters to your own taste, nothing forbidden with that.
hi Erlandson
Do you intend to redraw the circuit diagramm or even create a pcb-layout?
For any explanations to come, shall I refer to my original drawings?
regards
voltwide
Do you intend to redraw the circuit diagramm or even create a pcb-layout?
For any explanations to come, shall I refer to my original drawings?
regards
voltwide
Voltwide thank you very much for contribution! I am refering to your schematics and planning to use your layout for pcb artwork (will do the similar chasis as the original unit had 😉 )so feel free to refer to your original schematics. It now makes more clear why you implemented those filters. Will do the breadboarding and try to modify it a bit, just to satisfy my curiosity 🙂
concerning the speeds of the rotors, what is the right procedure to set them to the right ratios? I am hoping to come up with some kind of ramp speed pot to vary the time the effect speeds up and down... Regards!
concerning the speeds of the rotors, what is the right procedure to set them to the right ratios? I am hoping to come up with some kind of ramp speed pot to vary the time the effect speeds up and down... Regards!
Bumping a very old thread...I know.
Does anyone know how of an adjustment procedure for this unit? There are some notes on the schematic, but I don't read German. I thought I saw a service manual years ago, but I can't find it right now.
Does anyone know how of an adjustment procedure for this unit? There are some notes on the schematic, but I don't read German. I thought I saw a service manual years ago, but I can't find it right now.
Sorry, but I am a little confused about your question. I'll try to answer according to some of my possible interpretations.
My CLS222 is currently working and I am located in the US.
One of the things I am asking about is the Periodendauer procedure in the bottom right hand corner of the schematic. I don't read German so I don't understand the procedure.
I would also like to be able to adjust the time it takes to ramp up when changing from 'no motion' to fast and/or slow.
Finally, is there a service manual that is available? I remember seeing a service manual describing how to check and adjust the unit according to factory recommendations.
BTW, thank you for your response. You designed a very nice unit.
I was not sure weather you own a standard CLS222 or are on the way cloning it.
Sorry I do not have access to the service manual.
The mods you intend should not be difficult, I will answer these questions as soon as possible.
Sorry I do not have access to the service manual.
The mods you intend should not be difficult, I will answer these questions as soon as possible.
I own a working unit. I want to adjust to factory specs and be able to mod the ramp up and down time. I would appreciate and information that you can provide.
I had to delve into my circuitry 30 years ago😕 - here are the explanations referring to the original circuit diagram.
Top left corner of the circuit diagram shows treble rotor speed control.
R193+R195+R039: final speed treble rotor
R105 (2,7Meg): ramp up time treble rotor
R201 (1,2Meg): ramp down time treble rotor
C001 (2,2uF): ramp up&down time treble rotor
Below this you will find bass rotor speed control
R194+R196+R023: final speed bass rotor
R031 (4,7Meg) + R192 (4,7Meg): ramp up time bass rotor
R030 (6,8Meg): ramp down time bass rotor
C002 (2,2uF): ramp up&down time bass rotor
enjoy😉
Top left corner of the circuit diagram shows treble rotor speed control.
R193+R195+R039: final speed treble rotor
R105 (2,7Meg): ramp up time treble rotor
R201 (1,2Meg): ramp down time treble rotor
C001 (2,2uF): ramp up&down time treble rotor
Below this you will find bass rotor speed control
R194+R196+R023: final speed bass rotor
R031 (4,7Meg) + R192 (4,7Meg): ramp up time bass rotor
R030 (6,8Meg): ramp down time bass rotor
C002 (2,2uF): ramp up&down time bass rotor
enjoy😉