Dx Precision, finally released... now debugged and better than HRII

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Nordic said:
Hi Jose, I sent you a mail a while ago allready... there was a problem with your transaction... not your fault... the processing people just took too long, which made the authorisation expire...you were not charged. I did keep your envelope hopeing to hear from you...

Luckily it only happened with 3 people as it is quite a pain in the behind...

My wife is calling me to come eat, but when I am done I will drop you a mail again... just give me a shout if you do not receive it... I am haveing some problems with sending e-mail lately.. they go out... but are not delivered, nor do they return as undelivered...

My PC is realy due for a reinstall...


Hello Nordic, Carlos

I have received your email, nico2000 etc. etc. ... about my #69 order.

No, there was no transaction problem at all. To this order I just need your notification to proceed payment.

My order is for one set of Precision PCBs and two PSU PCBs

Thanks and sorry for inconveniences.
 
Hi Jose, like I said, the problem was this side... your authorisation process went fine... what you do online in a transaction is not the payment.. it is only an authorisation, and it lasts only for a short while... The physical debit needs to be processed within that time window or the authorisation expires... which is what happened...

Please just process your order and payment again, off course after checking your bank statements to see that you were not debited (according to the credit card processing co.).
 
Pending orders:
My finalised/completed/sent orders have remained in the "pending" state. Probably means Nordic has not gotten around to changing it.
It can cause some confusion. I'm quite confident my DX P1 pending order is winging its way to Aussie!

DX P1 progress:

I'm finding quality parts ordering is a big hassle, especially as they have to be purchased from many different suppliers , both overseas and in Australia - being an old slow-coach does not help.

Having a custom made 1000VA 46V-0-46V <3% regulation Toroidal T/F with electrostatic and electromagnetic screens, manufactured. This will give me the required 63VDC rails.

I have a mains filter/ DC blocking module coming from the US that I will mount in a separate external enclosure, that can be used with other amps as well. The larger Toroidal T/Fs are said to be prone to saturation from DC on the AC primary winding. There is heavy industry where I live and so DC could be an issue.
I'll use a soft start nodule as well.

billabong.
 
Hi, Joromo... unfortunatly the shopping cart package is shareware... fortunately it is open source.. at the moment I have only 3 status settings available... and they do not realy fit in with the process flow... ending up with me capturing data after events...

I have seen some downloadable user modules that can help me customise this area a little... but they need installation and customisation first... lots of reading 🙁

Unfortunatly I have been busy creating and uploading the construction information, for the PI, on the website, which has been keeping me a little bussy....

I plan to be finished and up to date with all status replies and construction details by some time on Monday... the first bits are uploaded allready...
 
I would like to send you my thanks by the kindness you have made

ordering the Precision I boards.

All i can say is that you gonna be extremelly happy with the hug power and sonics quality.

Enjoy the Dx amplifier, the only one that has a non boring THD.

regards,

Carlos
 

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Nordic,
Just mentioned the pending thing trying to show that it would not be a concern as far as actual ordering status was concerned. Didn't do a very good job of it. Anyway you clarified the situation.

Carlos,
Thanks for the encouragement, but I have no doubt the amp will sound just fine.

I'd like to ask you a question - would it matter much if C12 was a 10pf silver mica instead of a12pf one ?

Thanks,

billabong.
 
Attention, the Precision backyard laboratories have found that:

The amplifier seems to has bass in excess....not something the simulator shows...but some folks during testing here felt that.... was decreasing the input condenser that i have found better ballance...this depends your home, your personal taste.

Also, the unit is EXTREMELLY sensitive to bias adjustment... keep all output transistors conducting under stand by conditions, but do not make them read more than 3 miliamperes flowing from colector to emitter... check all them.

Also check the VBE voltages into drivers and output... error maximums, maximum difference from drivers and output is 20 percent bigger for the drivers compared to the output VBE measured... adjust that...the floating resistance, between driver's emitter is the one to change sligtly the value to match them in the best possible way....not really needed to be the same VBE...but if you found differences, better to be higher bias do drivers then into the ouput units.... check ALL them.

The off set is small... with matched transistors you may find very easy the adjustment and tenths of a miliampere is not hard to obtain in some units....but off set till 25 milivolts is not a problem too.

Any small short circuit caused by multimeter point probes, into the input, will kill the series rail transistors...carefull with them..they are important to sonics...short one will produce some off set and sound will be worse...the equipment will work, but worse.

Enjoy the Precision I

Carlos

.......................................................................................................

Nico

Send mine, as soon as possible, a i want to assemble fast, in advance the forum folks, to give the last check into adjustments..and to inform them the correct biasing.... during listening tests, and once again, and using the correct board.

thanks in advance by your kindness.

Carlos
 
I found into my listening tests... tweaking the Precision prototype

many monthes ago, during september and october of 2007, that i had to keep all transistors VBE around 575 milivolts...and i use to find, this one, as a magic number to me.

The treble headrom is better when you keep bias low, and of course, vbe low.... even 500 milivolts is better then 590 or 600 milivolts...and 640 or up must be avoided... even knowing books talks about 650 milivolts as the correct point.

I found something alike self erasure we had long time ago, using tape recorders... the biggest the bias oscilator level the biggest the self erasure.... i found also into transistor operation the same....peaks including high levels of high frequencies of audio, naturally, have disappeared when i force my bias to higher levels, advancing the bias current, to have 300 miliamperes each rail or something... entering the class A region of bias.

Do not know why this happens, so, cannot explain what happened.... so.... be carefull with your adjustment, not to have a mufled result....it is clear the mufflying factor when you increase bias in this amplifier.

I am very good with tape recorders.... i know 3 times more than audio amplifiers...unfortunattelly, this science has not more value now a days.

regards,

Carlos
 
Thanks Carlos for the important information about biasing DX P1.

I've been wondering about the Rail electrolytics values. I remember you used to prefer lower capacitance values than those now selected for C1, C2, C21, C22.
My Perreaux PMF 2150B amp uses 10uf electrolytics bypassed by 0.1uf film caps on both front and back amp sections. The power supply18000uf caps have no prallel caps nor bleeder resistors.
The high frequency performance of this amp is excellent and the amp as a whole is very transparent.

I'm thinking of using Black Gate standard 47uf 100V for C21, C22 and 10uf 100v for C1, C2. My two Mundorf M-Lytic HC 47000uf P/S caps also would not have any smaller parallel caps nor bleeder resistors. I can manually bleed the caps if needed.

Do you think this would be a satisfactory arrangement?

May be best to first use the specified caps, and consider using the lower values only if the amp appears to need tweeking?

It's 5.33Am here, so I'm off to bed.

Regards,
billabong.
 
I use to install them and remove them without perceive nothing

But, thinking on electronics, a good idea is to put 470uf to 1000uf near the output transistors...and 100 to 220uf into the input.

Of course you can try other ideas.... this is not something sensitive when you change.

Sometimes people feel happy installing big condensers, and some of them perceive audio differences..... maybe they are needing more capacitance there because into the supply they must have not enougth.... this way, off course, big condensers into the board will be helpfull.

I think they are ugly... and too much big..... an elegance destroyer in my point of view...i trully dislike them.

By pass capacitores are important...but the value can go from 22N to 1 microfarad.... most used is 100N, reason why i have selected 100N.

regards,

Carlos
 
Thank you Carlos for your reply.

I will use the recommended Rail caps - I'm using Nichicon UHE.

Later I might try BG 100uf and 47uf as well. These are the largest that will fit the boards. It is said that lower value BG caps can replace other caps of larger capacity - it would be interesting to see if this is true.

Regards,

billabong.
 
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