Best Strategy, Hookup all the components, verify the system is working properly,
pour a glass of wine & enjoy the music, whether it is Brahms or the Rolling Stones.
Or a tall glass of beer if that is your preference. 👍
pour a glass of wine & enjoy the music, whether it is Brahms or the Rolling Stones.
Or a tall glass of beer if that is your preference. 👍
Why on earth would you want to use some exotic copper clad alu wire instead of a plain twin-wire so called lamp cord?
And if you really have to use exotic stuff like copper clad wire, at least buy a couple of meters more and twist em wires tigthly.
And if you really have to use exotic stuff like copper clad wire, at least buy a couple of meters more and twist em wires tigthly.
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Rather than being exotic, copper clad aluminium is becoming more common in cheap wire as a cost saving measure. I was helping someone install some low cost car speakers and noted the copper clad aluminium wire supplied with thespeakers straight away as it was quite springy when I attempted to twist the stripped end, and the wire looked a slightly different colour, less copper looking. I threw it out and used copper wire which was far easier to work with.
That said, I'm aware copper clad aluminium is also used in particular applications that are not for cost reduction.
That said, I'm aware copper clad aluminium is also used in particular applications that are not for cost reduction.
It's used at high frequencies to manage skin effect (above the audio range), in cases where solid wire is needed rather than tubing.
Wiring is sized based on voltage drop over distance, so basically a short run to a device may only need 30 ga and a long one 1000 mcm, though for audio signals best to use same size, length and find a way to store the excess without coiling.
FWIW, DIYers tend to use way bigger speaker wire gauge (lamp cord) than required and at least with H.E. (and for some folks), many 'FR' driver systems there can be an audible improvement by properly sizing magnet/VC winding wire an excellent choice IME for relatively low power apps and Romex solid wiring for higher power apps.
Re single Vs multi-strand, it's like most things in that its CSA is what matters, so just as one big vent tube is the most efficient, ditto wiring with stranding only used where tight bends, flexing is required.
All this of course assumes one only wants an efficient as practical power conduit, so for those folks that swear by (at?) all the other options, just need to understand that it's now some type of electrical frequency shaping filter.
FWIW, DIYers tend to use way bigger speaker wire gauge (lamp cord) than required and at least with H.E. (and for some folks), many 'FR' driver systems there can be an audible improvement by properly sizing magnet/VC winding wire an excellent choice IME for relatively low power apps and Romex solid wiring for higher power apps.
Re single Vs multi-strand, it's like most things in that its CSA is what matters, so just as one big vent tube is the most efficient, ditto wiring with stranding only used where tight bends, flexing is required.
All this of course assumes one only wants an efficient as practical power conduit, so for those folks that swear by (at?) all the other options, just need to understand that it's now some type of electrical frequency shaping filter.
If time permits and there actually is some data for the originals, the replacements and the inductor the OP mentions, why not? But the main point was to encourage the OP to try to provide all the information he can up-front, rather than saving some up as a surprise. 😉
Be that as it may -it doesn't really affect the point I was trying to make above, which is simply that if you've got a set of (presumably, but possibly not) midi / mini-system speakers that you've dropped a (probably) Awia-made replacement bass unit into for unspecified reasons, with possibly other changes made to the other drivers also, and are running these speakers in corners -a slight difference in series R on one channel with what is likely rather less than 1dB shift and a minor deviation in bass damping isn't likely to cause audible issues.
Is this thread rhetorical or can you actually hear anomalies that you can isolate as being due to the cable size/length?
of course they can't hear anything. Other factors are far more beneficial than cables alone.
Which is yet another piece of information you didn't tell anybody about from the outset.
Aluminium is roughly 40% more resistive than annealed copper; at low frequencies [i.e. audio] CCAW not as much as that, how much depending on the amount of copper used. Since we don't know the exact wire used, there's no chance of us knowing for sure, so pulling a number out of the hat, call it about 30% so you can multiply the copper figures above by 1.3 for an approximate value. Still shouldn't make any audible difference in these conditions.
Let's face it, we are in no position to give a yes or no answer. The finer details are not important in this case. Only OP can answer the question so directly. All the details Kamranbits needs to move forward are on the table now in this thread.
There are opinions everywhere, many of them wrong.
On consumer quality speakers, 50' 14 ga wire is unlikely to cause an audible problem.
On my < 0.3% harmonic distortion (below 5 watts) Peavey SP2(2004) speaker, my normal cable was 8' 10 ga multistrand SO cord. I approved of the sound of this speaker on top octave piano LP. At 1 watt, when I changed to 25' 16 ga zip cord, a recording of top octave Steinway piano developed vibrato. Wood + steel pianos do not have vibrato. I lack the expensive low distortion microphone to record and plot this effect. Your amplifier may not be as sensitive to load as my Apex AX6 amplifier was.
10% increase in dcr because of cable resistance has the same impact as a 25°C temperatur increase of the voicecoil.
Indeed! Where me n' other locals got virtually all of our wire, many other parts, materials for a long time before/after the military surpluses were used up till I was pressured to submit them as part of a (then) new long term plant cost reduction program and once implemented it wasn't long before all the local manufacturers were 'penny pinching' to the point of sometimes being downright 'penny-wise and pound foolish'.
