That's probably time to turn them off, but I do like getting my value for money.
I'm not fond of the idea of incandescents. Even the halogen is banned, and a candle may have a better colour temperature. I'm not sure if that cave like warmth might effect the mixing process. It has an emotional value.
I would get the branded lamps, that are actually efficient. A 100w shouldn't be more than 12w now, and could be 9.5w if you get the latest tech. Amazon will sell you 18w 100s, that must emit anything they like.
Perhaps think about their positioning, in relation to sensitive kit. Or get one in a lead-light, and actually take it around, offering it up to potential weak spots. Kit should be immune these days. And any noise well outside of what we can hear. So kit really can iron it out.
In my humble opinion, all led bulbs are garbage.
The exceptions are minimal and surprisingly these are not branded.
All branded ones are cheaply made, without adequate cooling, poor quality capacitors e.t.c
The only LED bulb that worked for me at least 5 years was made with a cast aluminum heatsink with fins and ventilation slots in the plastic housing and it isn't from a known brand.
The exceptions are minimal and surprisingly these are not branded.
All branded ones are cheaply made, without adequate cooling, poor quality capacitors e.t.c
The only LED bulb that worked for me at least 5 years was made with a cast aluminum heatsink with fins and ventilation slots in the plastic housing and it isn't from a known brand.
I've seen those with heatsinks at a local electronics store, branded Genlamp. They no longer stock them, but they were expensive. Maybe they'd have lasted the 50,000 hours claimed for a lot of LED lamps - ridiculously inaccurate in my experience.
FWIW I've found the failure mode with LED 'bulbs' is commonly one of the LED dies burning out, leaving a black spot on the phosphor.
I've speculated as to whether they'd last longer on a slightly lower voltage, given that we run mains voltages up to 245v regularly.
FWIW I've found the failure mode with LED 'bulbs' is commonly one of the LED dies burning out, leaving a black spot on the phosphor.
I've speculated as to whether they'd last longer on a slightly lower voltage, given that we run mains voltages up to 245v regularly.
New LED bulbs are integrated driver on board, backing is aluminum substrate for good heat sinking.
Earlier, it was separate driver and board, with ferrites, the new ones will cause less trouble.
Or else, buy LED tube lights, measure the strip supply volts, and use variac + rectifier to deliver the supply, there are many varaitions.
Then buy as many strips as you need, rig them using heavy duty high ampere rated wire.
How big is the studio?
Earlier, it was separate driver and board, with ferrites, the new ones will cause less trouble.
Or else, buy LED tube lights, measure the strip supply volts, and use variac + rectifier to deliver the supply, there are many varaitions.
Then buy as many strips as you need, rig them using heavy duty high ampere rated wire.
How big is the studio?
The LED bulbs here generally have a die cast aluminum body that acts as heat sink and interference suppressor.
Cheapest branded 9W is 40 Rupees here, compared to 300 Rupees in 2016.
Cheapest branded 9W is 40 Rupees here, compared to 300 Rupees in 2016.
I haven't had any issues with LED lighting. I use bulbs by good/decent brands like Philips, GE, etc. Overhead righting by NORA. My test equipment can measure the grass grow and I'd easily be able to measure interference from the LED lighting if it was there. I just haven't seen any of it show up in my measurements at audio frequencies.
Tom
Tom
I didn't see this thread years ago, but my concern with incandescent/halogen lights would be the heat generated, and you'd want to be sure the fixtures and such can take the heat without being a potential source of a fire.
Rod Elliott has some pages on various types of lighting, though I don't recall if he ever discusses RFI/EMI, though considering the rest of his site, he darn well should.
https://sound-au.com/lamps/index.html
Of course having all connections balanced helps a lot, but various microphones (often with 25 foot cables) have levels that can be a LOT lower than in stereo equipment, even MM/MC phono stuff, and thus be more vulenrable to interference. I recall mention of a ribbon mic on a classical guitar as being a rather low-level signal source.
Rod Elliott has some pages on various types of lighting, though I don't recall if he ever discusses RFI/EMI, though considering the rest of his site, he darn well should.
https://sound-au.com/lamps/index.html
Of course having all connections balanced helps a lot, but various microphones (often with 25 foot cables) have levels that can be a LOT lower than in stereo equipment, even MM/MC phono stuff, and thus be more vulenrable to interference. I recall mention of a ribbon mic on a classical guitar as being a rather low-level signal source.
An electric guitar can be quite a good antenna. Have a listen to the intro to Joe Satriani's "Flying in a Blue Dream". The amp gain is cranked to the max and Satriani stands at strategic points in the room where the sound from the amp excites the room and the guitar. It's pretty neat. You can hear AM radio pickup on the track. The band decided to leave it in. 🙂
Tom
Tom