Patience pougatch….read several times….let it sink in….it helps if you draw out the circuit…everyone has provide great responses. Learning is half the fun. Ask if you have questions no shame.
well to disblame me a little, i bought F5 mono blocks from a guy in GB.
in his monos there were only 4 capacitors per block... so when i saw the UPSU with 8 of them I assumed it was symetrical and that each side was dedicayed to one channel... hence it was logical to have 1x18V per channel... but no.
when you think that my aim was more mark levinson kind of class A, and didn t wanted to put a lot of money... i end up spending much more redoing these blocks after having paid for them, than a second hand good class A ML... for a transparent class A that might not fit my taste...
it s the "Concorde" dilemna you know this fast plane between France and the US: at the middle of the project they ve spent too much to quite but too much to continue aswell
in his monos there were only 4 capacitors per block... so when i saw the UPSU with 8 of them I assumed it was symetrical and that each side was dedicayed to one channel... hence it was logical to have 1x18V per channel... but no.
when you think that my aim was more mark levinson kind of class A, and didn t wanted to put a lot of money... i end up spending much more redoing these blocks after having paid for them, than a second hand good class A ML... for a transparent class A that might not fit my taste...
it s the "Concorde" dilemna you know this fast plane between France and the US: at the middle of the project they ve spent too much to quite but too much to continue aswell
Building mono blocks in comparison to a dual mono single chassis setup gives you the benefit of
- separated grounds per chassis (and audio channel)
- double the heatsink estate, which on its turn gives you the possibility for a full differential setup (4 channels in total, 2 per chassis), which on its turn doubles the voltage swing
- extremely short distance amp to speaker (shorter cable run for better speaker control)
Edit: nice build!
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I am building mono block amplifiers, so i had to snap off the left and right side of the universal PSU board. In this case
You require a V+ and V- inside each monoblock. This would suggest that you would need two transformers (one for each monoblock). A pair of bridge rectifiers (or use the rectifiers on the UPS board) for each monoblock. This means that you would need two complete PSU boards. One for each monoblock.
Regards,
Dan
- which is the V- and the ground on the left board, ?
- which is the V+ and ground on the right board ?
You require a V+ and V- inside each monoblock. This would suggest that you would need two transformers (one for each monoblock). A pair of bridge rectifiers (or use the rectifiers on the UPS board) for each monoblock. This means that you would need two complete PSU boards. One for each monoblock.
Regards,
Dan
One of the most helpful things you can do when asking questions is post as many pictures as you can of what you're working on. One picture is almost worth a thousand words.
Regards,
Dan
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I completely agree.
With the current inflation, I think a photo is worth only about 927 words these days, but as Dan is absolutely right, please post some photos, it helps us answer you better.
🙂
With the current inflation, I think a photo is worth only about 927 words these days, but as Dan is absolutely right, please post some photos, it helps us answer you better.
🙂
I am trying to design my first PCBs (small helpers mostly). One is a ground loop breaker (see this for background) like the one you see here but with a 10x10mm hole pattern to complement the Store PSU board.
Anyone using diode bridge as GND loop breaker or is there no benefit compared to a CL-60 in a FW clone amp?
If there is interest I can share the gerbers after I have tested it.
Anyone using diode bridge as GND loop breaker or is there no benefit compared to a CL-60 in a FW clone amp?
If there is interest I can share the gerbers after I have tested it.
^ Yes.
Extensively discussed re: potential benefits in certain potential fault situations. I found posts from AndrewT on the subject to be most informative / less combative. I see he contributed a few thoughts in the thread you linked. I can't seem to find the thread that went back and forth on the specific subject... I actually thought it was this one, but when I looked for his posts, they were not the ones I expected.
Extensively discussed re: potential benefits in certain potential fault situations. I found posts from AndrewT on the subject to be most informative / less combative. I see he contributed a few thoughts in the thread you linked. I can't seem to find the thread that went back and forth on the specific subject... I actually thought it was this one, but when I looked for his posts, they were not the ones I expected.
For your inspiration and for those who are interested. They fit the 10X10mm pattern.
They look like this.
Best,
Anand.
Nice one. I am wondering what is the point of the heatsink for this application.
I have one of these. Not used yet. It is very small.
This is how far I got. Top copper area is signal GND, bottom copper area is chassis GND.
I am also working on a inrush current limiter and wonder what is a safe copper track width (and or minimum track clearance) for 230VAC.
Peppe,
I think the heatsink picture was just as an example? It’s not in the BOM and I don’t build them that way. Perhaps in a true ground fault, an enormous amount of current could pass through?
Best,
Anand.
I think the heatsink picture was just as an example? It’s not in the BOM and I don’t build them that way. Perhaps in a true ground fault, an enormous amount of current could pass through?
Best,
Anand.
Agree. Large current for very short time (uS?) just to blow the fuse will not be a problem for heat dissipation (I guess).
Anyhow, I do not want to hijack this thread too far. I will test my PCBs (GND loop breaker and a CL-60 inrush limiter) and be back here when I have actually built my PSU. Parts are waiting for a long time now.
Instead of mounting the bridge rectifier on top of the pcb and mounting the pcb to the chassis with standoffs, eliminate the standoffs and mount the bridge rectifier on the bottom of the pcb and bolt the bridge rectifer directly onto the chassis. Provide a hole in the pcb big enough to clear the bolt.
No need for standoffs and heatsink.
No need for standoffs and heatsink.
That is the point of the hole in the PCB (where the bridge goes). You can mount only the bridge on the top, the rest on the bottom and flip the entire PCB.
Is it this what you mean?
Is it this what you mean?
Yes, bridge on one side and everything else on the other side.
I do not understand why you say the bridge can only mount on the top. If you are designing the pcb you can place components on which ever side you choose. 🙂
By the way, I also started designing pcbs a short time ago. I think it's great fun. It is like a computer game for nerds. 🤓
I do not understand why you say the bridge can only mount on the top. If you are designing the pcb you can place components on which ever side you choose. 🙂
By the way, I also started designing pcbs a short time ago. I think it's great fun. It is like a computer game for nerds. 🤓