Link1
all the IEC type "filters" work well considering the small volume available inside the can to house all the components.
The can must be electrically connected to the enclosing chassis leaving no long gaps/slots for RF to leak through.
Links2 & 3
all the separate or independent filters require RF connection to the enclosing chassis AND require the connecting wires to be RF screened.
This makes for a more complicated installation.
The advantage is the bigger volume available inside the independent can to house a higher attenuation filter/s.
For today's typical "gadget" infested household, I strongly recommend RF attenuation filters for all your equipment.
all the IEC type "filters" work well considering the small volume available inside the can to house all the components.
The can must be electrically connected to the enclosing chassis leaving no long gaps/slots for RF to leak through.
Links2 & 3
all the separate or independent filters require RF connection to the enclosing chassis AND require the connecting wires to be RF screened.
This makes for a more complicated installation.
The advantage is the bigger volume available inside the independent can to house a higher attenuation filter/s.
For today's typical "gadget" infested household, I strongly recommend RF attenuation filters for all your equipment.
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Of course many people invoke the DIY mantra: If some is good then more is better. These people install an IEC power entry module with integral EMI filter on the chassis rear. Then they also connect a few more chassis-mount EMI filters in series between the power entry module and the power supply, for additional filtering and noise reduction.
Thank you Mark and Andrew. I have ordered this one from Mouser 631-FN1393-10/05-11
I used some (5amp i think) mains cable. I stripped away the outer insulation just leaving the coloured insulation and used that with a combination of spades and hard wiring to hook everything up. Yes I know i shouldn't really use mains for the speaker output but at the moment i've not built my impasse so its largely irrelevant.
And used some cable ties to keep things neat. I also used some insulation tape round some of the bare contacts on the soft start board. Didn't fancy leaving that uncovered.
And used some cable ties to keep things neat. I also used some insulation tape round some of the bare contacts on the soft start board. Didn't fancy leaving that uncovered.
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IEC combined filter, or cable?
I use 1A and 3A IEC filters.
cable is usually 1.5mm², but can be smaller.
Looks like now even the standard Panasonic ECO-S1HP183EA caps are now obsolete. Neither Mouser or DigiKey have them. Sheesh, almost seems like a conspiracy aimed at DIY sometimes 
Anyway, looking elsewhere I found a great deal on the Panasonic 22,000uF 50V version ECOS1HP223EA at www.verical.com (Arrow Elec.)
$3.9791 each. At that price with 250+ available I ordered 24, free US shipping, plus $7.88 tax
More Details: shipping from USA est 9/1 delivery
Warranty: Manufacturer
Date Code: 1436+
Anyway, looking elsewhere I found a great deal on the Panasonic 22,000uF 50V version ECOS1HP223EA at www.verical.com (Arrow Elec.)
$3.9791 each. At that price with 250+ available I ordered 24, free US shipping, plus $7.88 tax
More Details: shipping from USA est 9/1 delivery
Warranty: Manufacturer
Date Code: 1436+
As you have found out, Panasonic has discontinued all their snap-in and through-hole caps.
No worries, there are still lots of other manufacturers making suitable product. Nichicon, Rubycon, Cornell-Dublier, and quite a few others.
For an F5T using the diyAudio PSU board, the important bits are 10mm snap-in mounting, max 35mm diameter, and 50V.
No worries, there are still lots of other manufacturers making suitable product. Nichicon, Rubycon, Cornell-Dublier, and quite a few others.
For an F5T using the diyAudio PSU board, the important bits are 10mm snap-in mounting, max 35mm diameter, and 50V.
PCB V3 rectifier parts
Hello,
After building a dual mono F5 (wow!) with DIYaudio PSU V3 PCB's I am currently building the Pearl 2, I used the caps pcb parts in the F5 and want to use the rectifier(diode) pcb parts for the Pearl 2 Salas shunts. Unfortunately I have 2 single diode bridges short.
Does anyone have a pair of rectifier boards left over? That would be/look very nice. Ordering for just the 2 rectifier boards (on one V3 pcb) to Europe is relatively expensive.
Thanks,
Albert
Hello,
After building a dual mono F5 (wow!) with DIYaudio PSU V3 PCB's I am currently building the Pearl 2, I used the caps pcb parts in the F5 and want to use the rectifier(diode) pcb parts for the Pearl 2 Salas shunts. Unfortunately I have 2 single diode bridges short.
Does anyone have a pair of rectifier boards left over? That would be/look very nice. Ordering for just the 2 rectifier boards (on one V3 pcb) to Europe is relatively expensive.
Thanks,
Albert
Aleph J capacitor question
Hello everyone. This is my first post here. I purchased Aleph J boards and the V3 power supply board about a year ago, as well as the boards and chassis for an ACA build. I promptly built the ACAs and am very happy with them listening through a pair of very efficient DIY single driver steamers. I put off the Aleph J build for a long time for that reason, but have recently started it up and purchased parts based upon the BOM that is listed on the excellent build guide on this site. I now have all the parts required, but when ordering I purchased four 33000uf capacitors based upon the older power supply board shown in the build guide. The ACA uses 2 wall wart power supplies and I am unfamiliar with building them for this reason. My question has to with the suitability of the capacitors I purchased, and their placement on the board. I have an Antek AN-5218 with 500VA and 2X 18v. The capacitors are four Cornell Dubilier 380LX at 33000uf and 50v. There is enough room on this board for eight of these capacitors. Is it OK to just use 4? Also, if I use four, should I put one on each side of the resistors, or both on the same side? The V3 seems much larger than the board in the build guide. Is it a good idea to buy 4 more of these same capacitors and fill the available space on the board? If I chose to purchase 4 more capacitors with the same voltage rating but less capacitance, what would be the best way to arrange them? In addition, I have on hand two of each of the following;
Nichicon VR(M) 4700uf 63 volts
Elna for audio 6800uf 75 volts
Paradigm labeled 5600uf 50 volts
Shizuki 75uf 575 volt film capacitors
Is there any point in using any of these? I'm especially curious if the film cap would add anything. My obsessive compulsive nature makes it difficult to leave all those empty spots on the board! Any advice that you all might provide would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Hello everyone. This is my first post here. I purchased Aleph J boards and the V3 power supply board about a year ago, as well as the boards and chassis for an ACA build. I promptly built the ACAs and am very happy with them listening through a pair of very efficient DIY single driver steamers. I put off the Aleph J build for a long time for that reason, but have recently started it up and purchased parts based upon the BOM that is listed on the excellent build guide on this site. I now have all the parts required, but when ordering I purchased four 33000uf capacitors based upon the older power supply board shown in the build guide. The ACA uses 2 wall wart power supplies and I am unfamiliar with building them for this reason. My question has to with the suitability of the capacitors I purchased, and their placement on the board. I have an Antek AN-5218 with 500VA and 2X 18v. The capacitors are four Cornell Dubilier 380LX at 33000uf and 50v. There is enough room on this board for eight of these capacitors. Is it OK to just use 4? Also, if I use four, should I put one on each side of the resistors, or both on the same side? The V3 seems much larger than the board in the build guide. Is it a good idea to buy 4 more of these same capacitors and fill the available space on the board? If I chose to purchase 4 more capacitors with the same voltage rating but less capacitance, what would be the best way to arrange them? In addition, I have on hand two of each of the following;
Nichicon VR(M) 4700uf 63 volts
Elna for audio 6800uf 75 volts
Paradigm labeled 5600uf 50 volts
Shizuki 75uf 575 volt film capacitors
Is there any point in using any of these? I'm especially curious if the film cap would add anything. My obsessive compulsive nature makes it difficult to leave all those empty spots on the board! Any advice that you all might provide would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi 6L6, maybe you used 2.2kOhm instead of 22 kOhm for the bleeders?
just in case it was accidentally,
stefan
First off, thank you 6L6 for these fantastic build guides - I'm planning on building an F5Tv2 along with this PSU, and the guides are really quite useful.
My question is regarding voltage ratings for the capacitors: Since I'm planning to use 32V rails, is a rating of 35V enough on them? I feel like having them so close to the rail voltages is a dangerous game - but I can't find >=18mF caps with voltage ratings higher than 35V, so I don't know what to do.
Any guidance would be appreciated.
My question is regarding voltage ratings for the capacitors: Since I'm planning to use 32V rails, is a rating of 35V enough on them? I feel like having them so close to the rail voltages is a dangerous game - but I can't find >=18mF caps with voltage ratings higher than 35V, so I don't know what to do.
Any guidance would be appreciated.
And of course, as soon as I posted that, I realized I'm dumb and I can use 35mm dia. caps, so I've found a few rated for 50V.
I thought of another question though: for the transformer, I just want to make sure going overboard on the VA rating won't hurt me - 600-800VA is recommended in the F5T Build Guide, but I only see 500VA or 1000VA on DigiKey. Also, are these things supposed to be this darn expensive? $140 is what I'm looking at here.
I've never bought transformers before, just want to make sure I'm getting everything right.
Thank you!
I thought of another question though: for the transformer, I just want to make sure going overboard on the VA rating won't hurt me - 600-800VA is recommended in the F5T Build Guide, but I only see 500VA or 1000VA on DigiKey. Also, are these things supposed to be this darn expensive? $140 is what I'm looking at here.
I've never bought transformers before, just want to make sure I'm getting everything right.
Thank you!
Smoothing capacitor voltage varies with mains voltage and also with loading.
The maximum output voltage of the transformer is:
Max Supply voltage / transformer voltage rating * secondary voltage * transformer regulation.
eg. 115Vac:0-22, 0-22Vac, 4.6% regulation operating on a nominal 120Vac supply that has a maximum of 127Vac, then max output = 127/115*44*1.045 = 50.78Vac
The bridge rectifier at very low loading will drop two diode drops of ~0.5V. Subtract this from the peak voltage after the rectifier.
Max DC voltage = sqrt(2)*max Vac - 1V =1.414*50.78 - 1 ~ 70.8Vdc
That would be split equally for a dual polarity supply into ±35.4Vdc
On that basis it would be unwise (risk of low reliability) to use 35V capacitors with a 22Vac transformer.
One must check the worst case conditions for each transformer and it's mains supply. Guessing is no good.
OK, I'll break my rule and take a guess. I'll guess that are hundreds of amplifiers using supply+transformer that occassionally allow operation in the "over-voltage" condition and the electrolytics do not blow up.
The maximum output voltage of the transformer is:
Max Supply voltage / transformer voltage rating * secondary voltage * transformer regulation.
eg. 115Vac:0-22, 0-22Vac, 4.6% regulation operating on a nominal 120Vac supply that has a maximum of 127Vac, then max output = 127/115*44*1.045 = 50.78Vac
The bridge rectifier at very low loading will drop two diode drops of ~0.5V. Subtract this from the peak voltage after the rectifier.
Max DC voltage = sqrt(2)*max Vac - 1V =1.414*50.78 - 1 ~ 70.8Vdc
That would be split equally for a dual polarity supply into ±35.4Vdc
On that basis it would be unwise (risk of low reliability) to use 35V capacitors with a 22Vac transformer.
One must check the worst case conditions for each transformer and it's mains supply. Guessing is no good.
OK, I'll break my rule and take a guess. I'll guess that are hundreds of amplifiers using supply+transformer that occassionally allow operation in the "over-voltage" condition and the electrolytics do not blow up.
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I've worked for companies that manufactured and sold electronic parts in tens of millions per month quantities. Our highest end, most sophisticated customers would put vendor parts like ours, through a Qualification Test. They choose the supplier's device whose test results EXCEEDED the datasheet specification, by the largest amount. (After first hammering all of us down to the lowest possible price). You can be sure that a 53V capacitor in one of their products, works just fine waaaaaay past 53 volts.
Gents I'm trying to get my head round using these boards to replace unobtanium psu boards for a Paradise build, +/- 28v at 300ma and with Hammond chokes in use. Any reason why I couldn't place a 300ma choke between the rectifier and cap sections of these boards to get the LCRC that I require? Ideally it'd be CLCR but they don't easily lend themselves to that, not without track surgery, unless I've missed a trick.