A good coat of PVA is cheap easy and effective. I wouldnt like to try it on a fragile cone though lol
Whats the replacement for this speaker if the driver (FE126/FE127) is no longer being manufactured?
Is it this?: http://diyaudioprojects.com/Drivers/FE126En/
Is it this?: http://diyaudioprojects.com/Drivers/FE126En/
The two drivers cited 126/127 shouldn't really be considered interchangeable in the first place, so choice of replacement would depend on the the enclosure design. The FE126EN is still in production, it'd be the 127 that would find FF125WK as most likely "replacement" - noting that designs for the 127 might need some tweaking to tuning when using the new driver.
Would the port need some lengthening from the specified 1.5" when using a flared duct as sold by Madisound? How much would be in the ballpark?
The Madisound Speaker Store
(makes it easier to get a good fit between cabinet and using otherwise just a piece of PVC pipe)
Thanks!
To answer your question, yes it should be longer to compensate for the flair of the vent. When calculating the correct length for a flared vent, most add 1/3 (to 1/2) the length (depth) of the flair to calculate the overall length. Since I use a round-over bit to create the flair in the cabinet, I then add a PVC tube on the inside for a test measurement. If it's good, I mix epoxy and install the vent tube permanently.
Best Regards,
TerryO
Dave / TerryO
thanks for the replies, much appreciated.
I am not particularly fond of round vents however the design is with a round vent and it is always best to keep the build as close as possible to the original tested version.
I've just been looking at MJK's alignment tables. It appears that since the original monopole was designed more knowledge has become available and that it is better to mount the driver 0.349 * the length from one end rather than halfway.
The upshot of this is that with the folded monopole it is better to extend the divider down to the bottom and mount the driver approx 290 mm from the bottom keeping everything else the same. Models better in the worksheets too.
An interesting and sometimes dramatic thread. Did a reference version get posted anywhere? The links on the Planet10s site lead back here. I did see a v.1 but may have missed the final. How does it hold up to contemporary units?
For instance this is the last reference to the final design I could see. We’re there any changes or simulations presenter? https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/46934-diyaudio-range-reference-project-69.html#post969462
Thanks.
Thanks.
That driver is long gone. We’d have to start over, and these days it would be much harder to choose a driver, given the much higher number of potential candisiates.
dave
dave
Thanks David. It’s a shame a lot of energy went into that. I suppose the knowledge is not lost and resulted in better designs.
The embarrassment of riches in terms of the quality and range of drivers, measurement and modelling technologies - not to mention DSP - now available to the DIYer has I think been surpassed only by the exponential growth in the cottage industry of punditry thereof.
“Howdy Internet peeps, I’ve got high speed service and a pile of half baked and disruptive theories, so you’re welcome. Oh, and don’t forget to like and subscribe”
“Howdy Internet peeps, I’ve got high speed service and a pile of half baked and disruptive theories, so you’re welcome. Oh, and don’t forget to like and subscribe”
...i smile. (Big Smile) ( cannot subscribe... due to my 'car' being 'disappeared'. ) > regardless of that... I still have to figure out 'What's real and what is S'not'. > these forums are good. I have to hear it. ? (and get better DSP processing? ) curiosity never kills a cat. Onward>