Hello Xor,
now, how is your cabinet handelling different kinds of music. For example I guess it's great for vocal (tori amos, loreen mckennit), for acoustic (clapton, paco de lucia) but how about something more demanding like some classic rock (led zepelin, deep purple)? Do you think that by simply adding a sub (and cutting them at let's say 80Hz down) would give me the posibility to listen this kind of music with out loosing the qualitty?
Regards, Florin
now, how is your cabinet handelling different kinds of music. For example I guess it's great for vocal (tori amos, loreen mckennit), for acoustic (clapton, paco de lucia) but how about something more demanding like some classic rock (led zepelin, deep purple)? Do you think that by simply adding a sub (and cutting them at let's say 80Hz down) would give me the posibility to listen this kind of music with out loosing the qualitty?
Regards, Florin
Cabinet bracing:
We have been longitudinally bracing our cabinets for a while now. It takes a bit more effort and a bit of volume adjustment but it is really worth the time it takes. I cut a 1/4 inch deep chanel down the inside length of the sides. NOT centred on the panel. The width of the channel is to accept a piece of sheet material as a brace either 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick plywood.The brace is drilled with lots of difering size large holes in a random type pattern. The holes are 1 inch through 3 inch diameter. The brace is cut out to accept the depth of drivers exactly.
The concept is to reinforce the panels and reduce the resonant surface so the frequency of resonance is above the audio range. Coupling the drivers also reduces driver basket resonance. When completed the cabinets should be very solid and resonace from the components should not contribute to the sound.
Sub integration:
I have been experimenting with the concept you are describing and I think it works quite well. The caveat is that you must remember you are using a 4 inch driver that excels at mid range not bass. If you want to listen at normal to not too loud levels yes it works. If you want to listen with your hair straight back well this might not be the best choice for you. If you can do it two subs are even better.
Nuff said for now
We have been longitudinally bracing our cabinets for a while now. It takes a bit more effort and a bit of volume adjustment but it is really worth the time it takes. I cut a 1/4 inch deep chanel down the inside length of the sides. NOT centred on the panel. The width of the channel is to accept a piece of sheet material as a brace either 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick plywood.The brace is drilled with lots of difering size large holes in a random type pattern. The holes are 1 inch through 3 inch diameter. The brace is cut out to accept the depth of drivers exactly.
The concept is to reinforce the panels and reduce the resonant surface so the frequency of resonance is above the audio range. Coupling the drivers also reduces driver basket resonance. When completed the cabinets should be very solid and resonace from the components should not contribute to the sound.
Sub integration:
I have been experimenting with the concept you are describing and I think it works quite well. The caveat is that you must remember you are using a 4 inch driver that excels at mid range not bass. If you want to listen at normal to not too loud levels yes it works. If you want to listen with your hair straight back well this might not be the best choice for you. If you can do it two subs are even better.
Nuff said for now
Here's the real lesson: now you can build the stereo bench/rack to hold all your FUTURE audio purchases. She can't complain because it was HER idea.Xor said:
Thank you. My GFs first comment when she saw them was: now you have to build a new tv and stereo bench.. So lessond learned: dont make it to fancy..
I find they have supprisingly good bottom.. I think my neighbours are quite happy without a sub accually
I cant wait for them to break in, I cant really imagen what they will sound like then.
Thanks a bunch for this tread and all info!
Im have a question about stuffing again
I now have lined the walls of the whole speaker with pollyfluff..
Is there suppose to be something in between the drivers? Now I only have the coupling rod. Do I gain anything with stuffing there? And If so, how should I apply it?
The speaker is playing nicely, but everything can be tweeked..
I now have lined the walls of the whole speaker with pollyfluff..
Is there suppose to be something in between the drivers? Now I only have the coupling rod. Do I gain anything with stuffing there? And If so, how should I apply it?
The speaker is playing nicely, but everything can be tweeked..
Thanks for the response Dave. I should have been more specific with my request for a recommendation. We, my wife and I, do not use high volume levels when watching movies. The primary interest is accuracy at moderate to mid volume levels. There is no interest in pants flapping, bone jaring LFE either. I know this is home theater heresy but I can neither tolerate the bass rolling toward me like a sea of mud nor everything blaring away in a obfuscated cacophony. Cohesive, crisp, unveiled sound is the primary interest along with the ability to distinguish the nuance of dialog, movement etc. occuring during the movie.
planet10 said:
So.. I lined the sides with this stuff: http://www.biltema.se/products/product.asp?iSecId=524&iItemId=78464
And its 0.58m2 * 300g = 174g. How much normal polyfluff should I have as a start-value for the middle of the line? Or should I somehow reduce the amount of lining?
How should the sound change when the whole line is stuffed instead of just lined?
Thankfull for you answering my stupid questions once again (but at least im learning
)
FE127E vented
I tried the FE127E in a small TL design that I found and it was a bit lifeless for my tastes plus the bass performance was lacking.
With that experiment over I ended up designing a small 12.5 litre vented box and have it listed on my site. The speaker is very open, lively with a surprising bass performance and needed BSC to bring out the best, even though it was wall loaded.
Details of the design can be found here.here
I tried the FE127E in a small TL design that I found and it was a bit lifeless for my tastes plus the bass performance was lacking.
With that experiment over I ended up designing a small 12.5 litre vented box and have it listed on my site. The speaker is very open, lively with a surprising bass performance and needed BSC to bring out the best, even though it was wall loaded.
Details of the design can be found here.here
Attachments
Hi SCD
I won't say what the design was as it could have been my implementation, not getting the stuffing right or the sound may just have not been to my tastes and that is not the fault of any design. My forte is not in TL's so am limited in my tweaking ability and unless you understand the full design process, it's hard to make changes to suit. Vented and sealed are my background, so that's the path I took as I can wring the best out of a design using those as I completely understand them.
What I will say is that I normally don't delve into fullrange but heard a Visaton B200 in an OB and was very impressed so wanted to try one of the Fostex drivers as I have always wanted to know what the fuss was all about and been busting to try one. This thread gave me the the push I needed.
The best driver for my application was the FE127E. The choice was spot on and used within it's limitations, right location and partnering equipment is very special indeed. Sure, the top end is not the best I've heard and the bass is limited in depth (goes low enough to make the foot tap however), but that's not the point, as this driver when done right is extremely musical and has a great presentation. I'm extremely happy with the outcome and have a big grin when listening.
If anyone thinks a fullrange design is easy as it's only one driver is fooling themselves as the box needs to be right, getting the box proportions right to help with standing waves, right amount of damping and to deal with baffle step and the rising response takes a bit of work. If not done correctly the speaker will sound top and upper mid heavy but get it right and it's mmmmmmm, yummy. Well worth playing with and choose the right driver for the job and you're half way there.
I imagine the bipole would be great but this speaker was to be used in a small location and close to the back wall... all about designing to suit the application.
Another convert is born
I won't say what the design was as it could have been my implementation, not getting the stuffing right or the sound may just have not been to my tastes and that is not the fault of any design. My forte is not in TL's so am limited in my tweaking ability and unless you understand the full design process, it's hard to make changes to suit. Vented and sealed are my background, so that's the path I took as I can wring the best out of a design using those as I completely understand them.
What I will say is that I normally don't delve into fullrange but heard a Visaton B200 in an OB and was very impressed so wanted to try one of the Fostex drivers as I have always wanted to know what the fuss was all about and been busting to try one. This thread gave me the the push I needed.
The best driver for my application was the FE127E. The choice was spot on and used within it's limitations, right location and partnering equipment is very special indeed. Sure, the top end is not the best I've heard and the bass is limited in depth (goes low enough to make the foot tap however), but that's not the point, as this driver when done right is extremely musical and has a great presentation. I'm extremely happy with the outcome and have a big grin when listening.
If anyone thinks a fullrange design is easy as it's only one driver is fooling themselves as the box needs to be right, getting the box proportions right to help with standing waves, right amount of damping and to deal with baffle step and the rising response takes a bit of work. If not done correctly the speaker will sound top and upper mid heavy but get it right and it's mmmmmmm, yummy. Well worth playing with and choose the right driver for the job and you're half way there.
I imagine the bipole would be great but this speaker was to be used in a small location and close to the back wall... all about designing to suit the application.
Another convert is born
127 Bi -pole wedge plans
This is my first post here - a great site and great thread for a nonvice such as myself.
Basically I'm interested in doing a wedge or slanted bi-pole similar to what SCD did:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46934&perpage=10&pagenumber=45
How would I go about getting the dimensions?
Thanks in advance.
This is my first post here - a great site and great thread for a nonvice such as myself.
Basically I'm interested in doing a wedge or slanted bi-pole similar to what SCD did:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46934&perpage=10&pagenumber=45
How would I go about getting the dimensions?
Thanks in advance.
Re: 127 Bi -pole wedge plans
The amount of lean-back is dependent on the listening height of your ears, the distance you are from the speakers, and the height of the driver above the floor.
In the example below, lets 1st assume we want to be on axis (sometimes off axis is good to tame a rising hi-end), that the listening distance is 8 ft, your ears are 36" above the floor and the driver centre is 17 1/2" up (i've added a 3/4" base to keep the speaker from tipping).
Draw a line from Point A (speaker) to point B (your ears). A perpendicular to this line is the slope of the front baffle.
Note that a higher stand (for instance required if you port out the bottom) will mean less lean-back.
dave
jrosenth said:
The amount of lean-back is dependent on the listening height of your ears, the distance you are from the speakers, and the height of the driver above the floor.
In the example below, lets 1st assume we want to be on axis (sometimes off axis is good to tame a rising hi-end), that the listening distance is 8 ft, your ears are 36" above the floor and the driver centre is 17 1/2" up (i've added a 3/4" base to keep the speaker from tipping).
Draw a line from Point A (speaker) to point B (your ears). A perpendicular to this line is the slope of the front baffle.
Note that a higher stand (for instance required if you port out the bottom) will mean less lean-back.
dave
