diyAudio Full Range Reference Project

frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Kent Smith said:
I agree with PaulB, would someone like to suggest a reference driver at least? Maybe a mid-size one that provides a ballance between bass and highs, and is not too expense. Something that would be a good starting point for those of us that have not built a single driver fullrange?

Depends on your goals & needs. FE103, 126/126, 166/167. I'm eagar to see if the 126/127 can match the mid of the 103 and extend the bottom a bit.

dave
 
Well, okay....

Let's suppose I'm an average guy with some amplifier and speaker building experience, but not real good at cabinet building. I would like to be able to use commercial boxes up to 1 cubic foot volume at most, sealed or vented okay. Size matters because I would like to move them around easily. Efficiency would be fairly important; I have a tube amp good for several watts per channel, but anything over 90 dB or so should be okay. I like a variety of music, Rock to Classical, Bluegrass to Jazz, but tending to favor acoustical instruments at very moderate sound levels. Quality of bass would be more important than how low or going real loud.

So given that.... whadya think guys?

Kent
 
moray james said:
Hey Paul: you are close at hand so if you would like you can come over and have a listen to what I have veen doing with the Fostex fe126e as well as the fe166e. I also have ...(etc.)
Hi Moray, that sounds like a pretty good offer. Things are busy the next few weeks for me, and mercator and I are pushing to get our preamp projects finished up, but after that I think I might take you up on it. I'm thinking of a FR set for a reading room. I'd buy a kit if there was a suitable one available, as woodworking is definitely not my forte.
Cheers
Paul
 
Karlson

I'm intrigued by the Karlson enclosure... and morays adaptation. I remember hearing one as a kid... (It's what brought me into D.I.Y.) It (was) the best system I ever heard!... but this was in the late 60's ... before 'measuring equiptment' was introduced. I believe it was all done by trial and error, and using ones ears in those days. So, (my query) how does one judge what (and where) one puts ones tools to work... near field- far field (for measurements)... and given a 'decent' design that's engaging... and 'measures reasonably flat'... what's the difference? I like the music, but I move around a lot, can't stay in a 'sweet spot'... It's why full range drivers seem to work .... but I'm still learning...
 
Plug me up

Hello Boys and girls:
I too am in the middle of a fe127 build (finally). Thanks for the prod I will make a set few sets of plugs for experimental type purposes and send them off in the next little while (Note: this is almost a comitment on my part!). The photo Dave put up a few posts back shows the 1197 plugs to be a little short for this driver. After discussion with Dave we decided the length should be about 3/8" longer. I will make a series of lengths and we can do some listening test to determine the best length. Historically the one that looks about right turns out to sound the best. I al so think we should be considering some cone treatment so we can try to adjust some of the resonant peaks that showed up in Marks curves.
I hope Dave can get his measuring equipment up and running so we can confirm our listening tests with some nice curves and stuff. It is always good when the measurements confirm what your ears are telling you.

I should have the folded MLTL and a tapered pipe ready in the next little while. I have found a bit of time and am back on the audio track for the next little while.

Nuff said for now
 
Spring

With spring not too far off, it is about time for me to start thinking about this project again and actually start building. I am interested in something similar to the folded bi-poles shown in the below threads.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=527415#post527415

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=527464#post527464

While I trust that the folding was done correctly, could someone point me to a nice reference that explains the theory behind folding an enclosure.

Cheers,
Gio.
 
folded taper quarterwave pipe

Hello Gio:
Timin8ter has done this design. His initial modeling shows a bit of a ripple. Perhaps Tim will chime in and offer some observations. I plan on making an unfolded version and address the ripple with stuffing.

Hello Tim are you out there
 
Yeah, I'm here lurking around. We touched on this briefly. When I've folded pipes I've had the port exiting either out the front or the back. If it's a bipole this results in one driver slightly higher or lower in the line, IOW, with a slightly different offset. Not necessarily a bad thing but to avoid this issue and maintain the same offset have the port exit the bottom so both drivers are equal distance from the ends of the pipe.
 
Timn8ter said:
Yeah, I'm here lurking around. We touched on this briefly. When I've folded pipes I've had the port exiting either out the front or the back. If it's a bipole this results in one driver slightly higher or lower in the line, IOW, with a slightly different offset. Not necessarily a bad thing but to avoid this issue and maintain the same offset have the port exit the bottom so both drivers are equal distance from the ends of the pipe.

I had previously read about that and planned on centering the port at the bottom of the enclosure. However, how does the internal "fold" affect this? To me, it seems that one driver will always be further away from the port, unless you put the port at the top. :eek:

Also, I am still looking for some background info on the folding/voigt concepts.

Gio.
 
Greets!

Hmm, the linked folded pipe is not a bipole WRT pipe loading since they are on the same side of the baffle spaced a considerable distance apart, so their performance will be somewhat different than the sim. The drivers need to be on the sides of a folded pipe to perform ~as predicted. Vent orientation isn't critical when the drivers are on the sides as long as it's near/at the bottom.

WRT folding a pipe, the rule-of-thumb is to measure the length through the middle of the bend, though the SQRT of the inner and outer pathlength is the most accurate measurement line.

GM