Hi Everyone,
I have just finished re-familiarizing myself with the "Options" that the Badger offers, and thought I would post my thoughts/ plan (nothing is real until it is on the internet!)
1) I am planning to use a a zener reference for the cascode.
2) I plan on using the standard TMC for the VAS compensation
3) I am undecided about the lead compensation capacitor, I may have to experiment with it.
4) based on my experience with guitar amps, and general tastes...I imagine I will prefer to bias R30 a "little" hot 🙂 . Time will tell I guess!
I will be ordering the 2 channel HB kit shortly, but just want to make sure Im not forgeting anything...
I am assuming that the Universal V3 Power supply will be a good fit for this build?
Also, I seem to remember A wireless remote mod somewhere on this forum... Can't seem to locate it.
I am not sure if the soft start is nessicary for this build, open to opinions! I will probably go for the reccomended ANTEK XFMR, and will be driving a pair of Statement II's.
Also, one last thing... Does anybody know if either of the 4U chasis will be available again?
Cheers,
Tim
I have just finished re-familiarizing myself with the "Options" that the Badger offers, and thought I would post my thoughts/ plan (nothing is real until it is on the internet!)
1) I am planning to use a a zener reference for the cascode.
2) I plan on using the standard TMC for the VAS compensation
3) I am undecided about the lead compensation capacitor, I may have to experiment with it.
4) based on my experience with guitar amps, and general tastes...I imagine I will prefer to bias R30 a "little" hot 🙂 . Time will tell I guess!
I will be ordering the 2 channel HB kit shortly, but just want to make sure Im not forgeting anything...
I am assuming that the Universal V3 Power supply will be a good fit for this build?
Also, I seem to remember A wireless remote mod somewhere on this forum... Can't seem to locate it.
I am not sure if the soft start is nessicary for this build, open to opinions! I will probably go for the reccomended ANTEK XFMR, and will be driving a pair of Statement II's.
Also, one last thing... Does anybody know if either of the 4U chasis will be available again?
Cheers,
Tim
Another question... The statement II speakers dip down to 4 ish ohms. Would I be better off with separate, smaller Transformers? Or lower rail voltages?
Yes, definitely a soft start.
I prefer two transformers but this requires two power supply boards. The space in your chassis will get tight.
In general lower voltage for lower ohm load but I think a 45 volt transformer should be fine in this case.
E
I prefer two transformers but this requires two power supply boards. The space in your chassis will get tight.
In general lower voltage for lower ohm load but I think a 45 volt transformer should be fine in this case.
E
evanc: Thanks for the response. I would ideally have a Power supply for each channel, but I am trying to save a little where I can because I'm renovating a house ( rebuilding and expanding), and that gets expensive 🙂 .
Also, I want the Statements to "sing", not blow up 🙂
So Just to be sure...I should order:
1 x PSU V3 board
1 x Soft start board
2 X Badger boards
I am trying to avoid multiple international shipping charges. Thanks again.
Also, I want the Statements to "sing", not blow up 🙂
So Just to be sure...I should order:
1 x PSU V3 board
1 x Soft start board
2 X Badger boards
I am trying to avoid multiple international shipping charges. Thanks again.
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Hi Helitim,
Unless you've heard otherwise, the 4U chassis seems to be available from the diyAudio store. It's now available in short (300mm) or longer (400mm) depth. The previous offering from the store was 400mm depth.
Unless you've heard otherwise, the 4U chassis seems to be available from the diyAudio store. It's now available in short (300mm) or longer (400mm) depth. The previous offering from the store was 400mm depth.
ByronInPortland: the old store showed "sold out" , but the new beta store shows stock. Must have been a transitional glitch! Also, I'm considering the 3 U now :S . So many choices, lol.
This question is probably for a moderator. There used to be two Honey Badger threads. Did one get deleted? I can't find the other one and that is where OS detailed the diode clamp. My Badger blew fuses in one channel and since I have it opened up I wanted to go ahead and add the diode. Does anyone have the details about that?
Thanks, Terry
Thanks, Terry
Has any tried to use the "big brother" of NJW0281 / NJW0302 - the NJW3281G / NJW1302G ?
It produce 50 Watt more.
Of course the PSU have to be bigger, but would there be any other things to change ?
Best regards
Henrik
It produce 50 Watt more.
Of course the PSU have to be bigger, but would there be any other things to change ?
Best regards
Henrik
Bump for answer to previous question
I see some builders used 1 XFMR, but 2 PSU's ? If I can get my order in by tomorrow, I should be able to start this build on my next time off. Otherwise, I'll have to wait until I can sort out the required boards and order them when I get home next time. Thanks if anybody can help out.
I see some builders used 1 XFMR, but 2 PSU's ? If I can get my order in by tomorrow, I should be able to start this build on my next time off. Otherwise, I'll have to wait until I can sort out the required boards and order them when I get home next time. Thanks if anybody can help out.
How about simple...1 transformer 1 power supply board 1 soft start and a pair of badgers. Put it together and enjoy listening.
Down the road when you feel like playing you could convert to dual mono. (second transformer and power supply board)
Down the road when you feel like playing you could convert to dual mono. (second transformer and power supply board)
Thanks for the quick response! I appreciate your advise. If I had an infinite amount of time, I would spend more time reading through the HB threads before I ordered my parts. I already spend 1-2 hours a day searching for answers, but I'm falling behind on the honey to-do list 🙂 .
BOM
Hey guys,
Another "newbie" question 😛 ...
Now that I've ordered my PCB's, chassis, and transformer... I am creating a cart at mouser and am a little confused at some of the designations.
Ex: SS9014 has been discontinued, but they carry 512-SS9014CBU, 512-SS9014ABU, and 512-SS9014DBU. Alot of parts on the list are like this.
I've looked at the specs, and am failing to see the differences... Can anybody shed light on this? I'm sure it is a user problem
.
Hey guys,
Another "newbie" question 😛 ...
Now that I've ordered my PCB's, chassis, and transformer... I am creating a cart at mouser and am a little confused at some of the designations.
Ex: SS9014 has been discontinued, but they carry 512-SS9014CBU, 512-SS9014ABU, and 512-SS9014DBU. Alot of parts on the list are like this.
I've looked at the specs, and am failing to see the differences... Can anybody shed light on this? I'm sure it is a user problem
.The first letter after 9014 is the gain rank of the transistor. Usually higher is better, but pnp and npn pairs should be the same gain rank.
They all appear have to same gain, and when I D/L the spec sheet, it uses the same sheet for all three. So That would confirm your thoughts as highlighted above. Thanks!
For my own knowledge, and future general use:
Typically would the gain relationship for A (be) >B>C>D etc... ? Thanks again.
My bad, I think I understand now.
Since the DIY AB AMP circuit only uses 9014's and not 9015's, its really not important right now. But in the furytre, if a circuit called for both, I would want to match the hfe ratings (A,B,D, whatever)?