Bulb info
A more better bulb choice as Paco puts it. Anyone who is going to get a MH bulb I have found something better a pulse arc MH the GE cat number is : MVR400/VBU/ED28/PA 20,000 hour life 44,000 lumens. Its 3,000 lumens brighter than the bulb I am currently using and it has a restrike time of less than 3 min. the bulb I have has a restrike time of 13-15 min. For those who dont know what restrike is it is when the bulb is on then you turn it off it takes X amount of time to reach 90% full brightness. I know when I turn mine on I just go take a dump, get something to eat, ect. then its up to full brightness but with the pulse arc on the first strike up it only takes around 1 min to get to full brightness. I donno if yall are weird like me and dont like waiting for it to come on but I thought this may be valuable to some of you. Oh and it takes a M135 ballast.
A more better bulb choice as Paco puts it. Anyone who is going to get a MH bulb I have found something better a pulse arc MH the GE cat number is : MVR400/VBU/ED28/PA 20,000 hour life 44,000 lumens. Its 3,000 lumens brighter than the bulb I am currently using and it has a restrike time of less than 3 min. the bulb I have has a restrike time of 13-15 min. For those who dont know what restrike is it is when the bulb is on then you turn it off it takes X amount of time to reach 90% full brightness. I know when I turn mine on I just go take a dump, get something to eat, ect. then its up to full brightness but with the pulse arc on the first strike up it only takes around 1 min to get to full brightness. I donno if yall are weird like me and dont like waiting for it to come on but I thought this may be valuable to some of you. Oh and it takes a M135 ballast.
Well my biggest problem is that the computer part of the laptop is really apiece of junk, and if I need to use it to process the feeds (TV, video, and dvd etc) then it would not work at all. So I really need to figure out a way of connecting a vga port (15 pin) to the lcd directly. Then problem is solved does anyone know how this could be done?
DUDE # IGOT THE PICUTRE POSTED #2 (YOUR ANSWER) THE BULB IS HOT, IF A BIG DROP IN TEMP. THEN THE GLASS WILL BREAK THATS A FACT SO WHEN U START THE BULB ON U START THE FAN SO THE GLASS BULB ADJUSTS TO THE TEMP. (SO THERES NO JRASTIC CHANGE IN TEMP TO CRACK THE BULB/GLASS ETC. .
TURNING OFF THE LIGHT STOP THE HEAT FORMING FROM THE BULB AND KEEPING THE FAN ON COOLS THE ENVIRMENT REALLY FAST SENCE ITS IN A SMALL CONTAINED AREA, THERE FOR BIG BIG DROP IN TEMP. AND THE GLASS IS STILL HELLA HOT "CRACK"
DO YOU GUYS GET IT. ITS LOGIC DUDES.😀 😀 😀 😀
TURNING OFF THE LIGHT STOP THE HEAT FORMING FROM THE BULB AND KEEPING THE FAN ON COOLS THE ENVIRMENT REALLY FAST SENCE ITS IN A SMALL CONTAINED AREA, THERE FOR BIG BIG DROP IN TEMP. AND THE GLASS IS STILL HELLA HOT "CRACK"
DO YOU GUYS GET IT. ITS LOGIC DUDES.😀 😀 😀 😀
well, being a computer person, i can tell you that you don't necessarily need a great computer.
Dscaler and like software actually processed the video to look better. however, if you dont want this feature (it takes a LOT of computer power to do it...), then you are fine.
for around $50 or less, you can get a USB video input device. this will allow you to feed RCA (and possibly s-video) signals into your computer, and out to the LCD panel. the only catch is that the laptop must have a USB port. now, quality isn't dependant on the laptop, because 2 reasons. 1) if the laptop has USB, it is capabe of handling the bandwidth created by they video capture device. (USB has a small limit on the amount of data that it can transmit, therefore, the video device will most likely reach this max, and the laptop will be able to handle it.). 2.) most video capture devices use video overlay. this means that it simply "overlays" the video image over the screen. all processing and scaling of the video is done by the capture device. it puts no more workload on your computer than say displaying a jpeg or a webpage. (truth, on my old 400mhz, i had a video overlay capture device, and i could play UT or any other game with this running in background without lag).
Dscaler and like software actually processed the video to look better. however, if you dont want this feature (it takes a LOT of computer power to do it...), then you are fine.
for around $50 or less, you can get a USB video input device. this will allow you to feed RCA (and possibly s-video) signals into your computer, and out to the LCD panel. the only catch is that the laptop must have a USB port. now, quality isn't dependant on the laptop, because 2 reasons. 1) if the laptop has USB, it is capabe of handling the bandwidth created by they video capture device. (USB has a small limit on the amount of data that it can transmit, therefore, the video device will most likely reach this max, and the laptop will be able to handle it.). 2.) most video capture devices use video overlay. this means that it simply "overlays" the video image over the screen. all processing and scaling of the video is done by the capture device. it puts no more workload on your computer than say displaying a jpeg or a webpage. (truth, on my old 400mhz, i had a video overlay capture device, and i could play UT or any other game with this running in background without lag).
biteon
Thanks for the replies!
I actually have a TV card in my desktop and I see where you with it and had even thought of that before but the processor will not cut it. Do you not think the controller in the machine will work? It seems the controller would be vga and I could attach the vga port on it some where?
Thanks for the replies!
I actually have a TV card in my desktop and I see where you with it and had even thought of that before but the processor will not cut it. Do you not think the controller in the machine will work? It seems the controller would be vga and I could attach the vga port on it some where?
I DONT NO MUCH ON THIS PART BUT I THINK MOST CONTROLERS IN LABTOPS ARE PROBLY PROPRITARY MEANING FUSED WITH THE MOTHER BOARD ETC. BUT ASK THE OTHER GUYS HERE THEY WORK WITH THAT STUFF MORE THAN I DO. HEY MAYBE YOU'LL GET LUCKY
AND HAVE A SEPARATED CONTROLLER THAT YOU CAN USE IN THAT LAB TOP. AND IF IT IS SEPARATED IT PROBLY BE A GOOD CHANCE THAT THERE IS A VGA PIN SETTING ON THERE.
THE ONLY REASON I THINK YOU MIGHT GET LUCKY IS CAUSE OLDER LAB TOP WHERE MADE TO UPGRADE SOME PARTS SO MAYBE.
GOOD LUCK
AND HAVE A SEPARATED CONTROLLER THAT YOU CAN USE IN THAT LAB TOP. AND IF IT IS SEPARATED IT PROBLY BE A GOOD CHANCE THAT THERE IS A VGA PIN SETTING ON THERE.
THE ONLY REASON I THINK YOU MIGHT GET LUCKY IS CAUSE OLDER LAB TOP WHERE MADE TO UPGRADE SOME PARTS SO MAYBE.
GOOD LUCK
SHOULD I CUT THE FINGER OFF MY LOGO OR SHOULD I JUST LEAVE IT THERE. IM STARTING TO FEEL WERID ABOUT IT LIKE MAYBE THERES ALOT OF PEOPLE FREAKING OUT ON THE FINGER,SO IM FEELING KINDA GUILTY AT THE MOMENT BUT ITS REALLY JUST ABUNCH OF COLOR MIX TO GETTER ANYWAYS.LOL
TRIP.
😀
TRIP.
😀
Ok guys, I’m coming out with the truth. I know my laptop does have a usb port and it maybe able to support a "tv" input device. However after seeing the weight and size and the heat (not to mention the electricity the suck up) that these projectors require, the last thing I want to add to my boat is an old (on its last leg) k62 300 MHz laptop. There has to be a way to bypass it. I don’t want to have to make my projector crunch numbers, and slowly at that (you know what I mean)
Biteon,
If you don't mind, could you please turn your "Caps Lock" off? It is more difficult to read all caps text. Thanks. 🙂
If you don't mind, could you please turn your "Caps Lock" off? It is more difficult to read all caps text. Thanks. 🙂
Is there something wrong with my MH bulb?`
Hi guys...
First off, I want to thank you for all the great information you've provided via this forum. It's very difficult to navigate, seeing how this is one humongous thread, but it's by far the best thing out there nonetheless. Now for my question.
I bought a Philips metal halide 400W bulb today. When I got home, I noticed that toward the top of the glass enclosure within the bulb (is it still a filament when it's that big?), there's a brown mark about 1 inch in diameter, almost like a burn mark. Is that normal? My ballast hasn't arrived yet, so I can't plug it in, and if it is in fact a bad bulb, I'd like to take it back and be able to honestly tell them I never even hooked it up. I'm not sure if they'll take it back or not, but it was certainly this way at the store. What do you guys think? Anyone notice something like this with their bulb?
I guess I have a couple more questions while I'm at it. What kind of concentrator/reflector should I buy/make? I bought a couple of mage manifiers in lieu of a fresnel lens, but I'm not sure if I'll even need those. Also, any recommendations on a good lens? I'll probably want to be moving this projector around every now and then, so I'd like a little something that gives me some flexibility. I've got an nView Spectra C LCD, and it works like a champ. Thanks for all the help, and I hope to be participating heavily in this group in the future. I'm very excited about this project and will surely document/photograph my experiences for others to learn from.
-Sean (HokieTT)
Hi guys...
First off, I want to thank you for all the great information you've provided via this forum. It's very difficult to navigate, seeing how this is one humongous thread, but it's by far the best thing out there nonetheless. Now for my question.
I bought a Philips metal halide 400W bulb today. When I got home, I noticed that toward the top of the glass enclosure within the bulb (is it still a filament when it's that big?), there's a brown mark about 1 inch in diameter, almost like a burn mark. Is that normal? My ballast hasn't arrived yet, so I can't plug it in, and if it is in fact a bad bulb, I'd like to take it back and be able to honestly tell them I never even hooked it up. I'm not sure if they'll take it back or not, but it was certainly this way at the store. What do you guys think? Anyone notice something like this with their bulb?
I guess I have a couple more questions while I'm at it. What kind of concentrator/reflector should I buy/make? I bought a couple of mage manifiers in lieu of a fresnel lens, but I'm not sure if I'll even need those. Also, any recommendations on a good lens? I'll probably want to be moving this projector around every now and then, so I'd like a little something that gives me some flexibility. I've got an nView Spectra C LCD, and it works like a champ. Thanks for all the help, and I hope to be participating heavily in this group in the future. I'm very excited about this project and will surely document/photograph my experiences for others to learn from.
-Sean (HokieTT)
HokieTT,
WELCOME!
as far as the bulb goes, when i was looking at them in stores, almost all of them had little marks like that. they kinda looked burned out... maybe its just how they are? undream might be able to help us out. good choice on the spectra c btw 🙂 and once again welcome to the forum.
WELCOME!
as far as the bulb goes, when i was looking at them in stores, almost all of them had little marks like that. they kinda looked burned out... maybe its just how they are? undream might be able to help us out. good choice on the spectra c btw 🙂 and once again welcome to the forum.
sceptre is good one
this i have seen to bea good panels. there is cafe with this here
if it is for a car i am not sure of this
next to me is sceptre models calling it komodo! Looking good! this one is from japonaise companies
this i have seen to bea good panels. there is cafe with this here
if it is for a car i am not sure of this
next to me is sceptre models calling it komodo! Looking good! this one is from japonaise companies
Parabolic reflector
Has anyone tried this parabolic reflector yet? They also make bigger ones with a longer focal length, but I don't want to make my container too big. Anything think this will work? For $30, it might be worth a shot. I'm also worried about the lack of thickness. At 3" away, the bulb might totall destroy this thing. Ideas? Thanks.
http://www.scientificsonline.com/Products/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=2389
Has anyone tried this parabolic reflector yet? They also make bigger ones with a longer focal length, but I don't want to make my container too big. Anything think this will work? For $30, it might be worth a shot. I'm also worried about the lack of thickness. At 3" away, the bulb might totall destroy this thing. Ideas? Thanks.
http://www.scientificsonline.com/Products/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=2389
i am looking this post and panels monitore to be use it is showing a panels calling
this monitors a panel of lcd! i think this picture look good and friend looking also is feel good!
possible to make projection from this one here is linkin
http://www.sceptre.com/Products/LCD/x5komodo.htm
we seeing now it is CALIFORNIA making so is america company so yes i see not good one understanding🙂
but maybe this is cheap one choice eh!
this monitors a panel of lcd! i think this picture look good and friend looking also is feel good!
possible to make projection from this one here is linkin
http://www.sceptre.com/Products/LCD/x5komodo.htm
we seeing now it is CALIFORNIA making so is america company so yes i see not good one understanding🙂
but maybe this is cheap one choice eh!
possably it is a good one
why don you try then tell us ! your spaming right
he is talking about the SPECTRA c by a company called Nview
sorry but it's different
okay
cool stuff here and look forward to working on my own
why don you try then tell us ! your spaming right
he is talking about the SPECTRA c by a company called Nview
sorry but it's different
okay
cool stuff here and look forward to working on my own
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