I have seen 180 cd bright white leds (star-o leds)
for info check http://www.markhannahsurplus.com/
could these be used for a projector you guys think ?
for info check http://www.markhannahsurplus.com/
could these be used for a projector you guys think ?
my projector is well on it's way but i need a new lens and i have no working knowledge of optics could anyone give me an idea of what i need?
right now i have a delta 77 and yes it does distort the picture and in order to focus it correctly it needs to be you against the lcd or whatever image you are trying to project... but hey i got it for free so it isn't like i wasted money 🙂
How are those 400 watt MH bulbs from home depot?
would one of those be ok or should i invest in something else?
as soon as i get my MH and a decent lens i will post my results
right now i have a delta 77 and yes it does distort the picture and in order to focus it correctly it needs to be you against the lcd or whatever image you are trying to project... but hey i got it for free so it isn't like i wasted money 🙂
How are those 400 watt MH bulbs from home depot?
would one of those be ok or should i invest in something else?
as soon as i get my MH and a decent lens i will post my results
I see that generally people are saying that the 400w MH light source is the way to go. I see that their are 1000w bulbs with 100+ lumens. Is this just overkill? Would there be too much of a heat issue?
Also, sorry if I missed this discussion, but I'm interested in going with a desktop lcd because it seems to offer a good compromise between higher resolution and price. Are there any models out there that are known to be good candidates for this? Such as easily dismantled and accessible screen and movable controller board. Not to mention giving a great projected picture. Most of the specs for lcd's is attainable, but the part that scares me is what has to be dealt with once the encasement comes off. Anyone have any suggestions or stories of what ones have worked well?
thanks,
Jason
Also, sorry if I missed this discussion, but I'm interested in going with a desktop lcd because it seems to offer a good compromise between higher resolution and price. Are there any models out there that are known to be good candidates for this? Such as easily dismantled and accessible screen and movable controller board. Not to mention giving a great projected picture. Most of the specs for lcd's is attainable, but the part that scares me is what has to be dealt with once the encasement comes off. Anyone have any suggestions or stories of what ones have worked well?
thanks,
Jason
Personally, I think 1000W is an overkill. However, I also think that 400W is not quite bright enough. I wish there was a common wattage bulb between 400 and 1000. like a 600W or so. But there isn't. Ideally, I think about 50-60,000 lumens should be used with our designs. Some of the people who have purchased Dukane overhead projectors have 575W metal halide bulbs. I think someone said that they have a 49,000 lumen bulb. That sounds about right in the area that we *should* be in. for the rest of us, 400W metal halides are fine, and you can get bulbs that put out 40,000 even 42,000 lumens that work with a standard 60 dollar M59 ballast. However, its going to have to be a large size bulb to keep it cost effective. They do make ED28 400W bulbs, which was the size of my first one. But, they max out at around 36,000 lumens. If you go with a BT37 or ED38, more often than not you'll find ratings over 40,000 lumens.
i think I have bad luck
well...I finally got my nview z-350 panel in last night and went home to try it out....well it was working quite nicely. When my girlfriend came in the room to see she pointed out that the image pixels keep changing colors and it had some kind of wavyness or static. When I put on my glasses I could totally see this. It seems like the pixels kept changing shades of color. I dont know why it was doing this. It was definitely not the normal motion you get from some projectors...and it wasnt the LCD getting too hot. When I just project the panels default logo it comes out brilliantly...but when I project a picture from my computer the colors start changing (you can really watch the pixels change colors -- even on a still image).
Anyone who has the the z-350...have you had anything like this...It is VERY noticable unless you need glasses and dont have them on (lol). If anyone knows, please let me know if my panel is bad or if I may be doing something stupid. I did try all the different settings on the panel, and I have had my computer drive other LCDs without a problem. I have also tried every resolution and 256, 16K, adn 32K colors. If anyone knows anything about this panel and if it is just normal for it I would appreciate your input.
Thanks,
Dave
well...I finally got my nview z-350 panel in last night and went home to try it out....well it was working quite nicely. When my girlfriend came in the room to see she pointed out that the image pixels keep changing colors and it had some kind of wavyness or static. When I put on my glasses I could totally see this. It seems like the pixels kept changing shades of color. I dont know why it was doing this. It was definitely not the normal motion you get from some projectors...and it wasnt the LCD getting too hot. When I just project the panels default logo it comes out brilliantly...but when I project a picture from my computer the colors start changing (you can really watch the pixels change colors -- even on a still image).
Anyone who has the the z-350...have you had anything like this...It is VERY noticable unless you need glasses and dont have them on (lol). If anyone knows, please let me know if my panel is bad or if I may be doing something stupid. I did try all the different settings on the panel, and I have had my computer drive other LCDs without a problem. I have also tried every resolution and 256, 16K, adn 32K colors. If anyone knows anything about this panel and if it is just normal for it I would appreciate your input.
Thanks,
Dave
I don't remember anything like that...
Hey Dave, I have the z310, which I think is the video input-less version of the z350, same res, color etc.. Anyways, I don't remember anything like that last time I tested the panel out, looked pretty much uniform. I'll try it again soon with a critical eye, but the z310 probabably is not going to end up as my #1 panel though, way too loud. Infocus 820 has those quiet paddle wheel type fans, soothing to the ear.
BTW, WOW, Star Wars digital looked AMAZING!!! It was not painfully clear untill afterwards when I snuck into Star Wars regular theater. Difference is mabe like (totally subjective but anyways..) 2 times the amount of color lost and a lot of fuzzness, especially in closeups or low light situations. I also saw Sum of All Fears (again in regular film format) and was intially also underwhelmed by the imperfections of film. I've never hated grain and dust before (usually hallmarks for me for viewing 'real' film projections), the drab colors of regular film kinda depressed me, but after a while I forgot about it and enjoyed the flick (good stuff). In bright scences and especially w/o a digital comparison of the same film, film is passable I guess now. Digital has spoiled my virgen eyes, I've crave digital or large format from here on out now 🙂
See yeah later guys, I gotta switch my apartments (university owned, gotta switch for summer, very lame), so I'm kinda busy, although spring qtr is now over, more time for DIY Video!
Hey Dave, I have the z310, which I think is the video input-less version of the z350, same res, color etc.. Anyways, I don't remember anything like that last time I tested the panel out, looked pretty much uniform. I'll try it again soon with a critical eye, but the z310 probabably is not going to end up as my #1 panel though, way too loud. Infocus 820 has those quiet paddle wheel type fans, soothing to the ear.
BTW, WOW, Star Wars digital looked AMAZING!!! It was not painfully clear untill afterwards when I snuck into Star Wars regular theater. Difference is mabe like (totally subjective but anyways..) 2 times the amount of color lost and a lot of fuzzness, especially in closeups or low light situations. I also saw Sum of All Fears (again in regular film format) and was intially also underwhelmed by the imperfections of film. I've never hated grain and dust before (usually hallmarks for me for viewing 'real' film projections), the drab colors of regular film kinda depressed me, but after a while I forgot about it and enjoyed the flick (good stuff). In bright scences and especially w/o a digital comparison of the same film, film is passable I guess now. Digital has spoiled my virgen eyes, I've crave digital or large format from here on out now 🙂
See yeah later guys, I gotta switch my apartments (university owned, gotta switch for summer, very lame), so I'm kinda busy, although spring qtr is now over, more time for DIY Video!
Re: i think I have bad luck
My proxima pj did the same thing untill i found out how to change the input format. It had 3 different vga input format. (each has different sync pulses i guess.) Also, you might be putting out a different signal from your p.c. than the native resolution of the panel.
SuperDave said:
My proxima pj did the same thing untill i found out how to change the input format. It had 3 different vga input format. (each has different sync pulses i guess.) Also, you might be putting out a different signal from your p.c. than the native resolution of the panel.
HAHAHA
You and mulitplexor just surprised me!!! Who the hell are you to teach me how to act? You want me to tell you what i think of this forum....here...
I think that the only people who do work here are Cowrang, Undream, Biteon, Vince and me (eventhough i do not post things), maybe i missed someone. The rest of you just flood the whole forum and the people who i have listed above have to read all this nonsense. If five of us got together in one forum, we would have opened our own projector firm by now.
What this forum needs is to isolate the noobs like Phazei and others who think with their butt.
AND MULTIPLEXOR, AS FAR AS I CONCERNED I DO NOT GIVE A F^%K IF YOU REPLY TO MY POSTS OR NOT, YOU ONLY HAVE A FRACTION OF MY KNOWLEDGE, AND YOU ARE DEFINITELY NOT THE PERSON I WOULD WANT TO GET ADVICE FROM. Believe or not i know a lot, but i do not want to show my knowledge of to try to impress others on this forum.
And if at least one of you told me not to buy that panel, Infocus 7600ws, i would not bi@#h at you.
aleksey😱
phazei said:
You and mulitplexor just surprised me!!! Who the hell are you to teach me how to act? You want me to tell you what i think of this forum....here...
I think that the only people who do work here are Cowrang, Undream, Biteon, Vince and me (eventhough i do not post things), maybe i missed someone. The rest of you just flood the whole forum and the people who i have listed above have to read all this nonsense. If five of us got together in one forum, we would have opened our own projector firm by now.
What this forum needs is to isolate the noobs like Phazei and others who think with their butt.
AND MULTIPLEXOR, AS FAR AS I CONCERNED I DO NOT GIVE A F^%K IF YOU REPLY TO MY POSTS OR NOT, YOU ONLY HAVE A FRACTION OF MY KNOWLEDGE, AND YOU ARE DEFINITELY NOT THE PERSON I WOULD WANT TO GET ADVICE FROM. Believe or not i know a lot, but i do not want to show my knowledge of to try to impress others on this forum.
And if at least one of you told me not to buy that panel, Infocus 7600ws, i would not bi@#h at you.
aleksey😱
important info came across (some facts)
this morrning i went to take back my 400 watt hps bulb and ballast. they wouldnt take it back. so now im sol $180 u.s. .
i asked the guy there "how much lumens do the metal halide bulbs he had perduce. he got the book out but he didnt understand it to well so i looked at it. it saw something kinda ****ed up guys. the 400watt metal halide bulbs initial @ 40,000
lumens then when fully lit they where only 26,000 lumens
i forgot the word they used to disscribe that but thats what the guy told me when i asked him why dose it show 2 specs on the lumens.so i think thats a fact here.
next
last night i made a mirror reflector(really easy same as cutting glass with the $4.00 glass cutter)
.................... __________tissu between frensal & reflector
.................../.....................|.|.|
................./.......................|.|.|.......|...........|
.................|..o...................|.|.|.......|...........|
..................\......................|.|.|.......|...........|lcd delta lenz
....................\____________|.|.|.......|
.......................mirrors............two
............................................frensal
.........................................smooth sides
......................................tord light and lcd
...................................ithink better focus of
.............................................light.
between the reflector and the frensal lenz i got a napkin and took a layer of it to mix all the light beems some what evenly.
yes it dose take a little light away but gets rid of two things
1. the bright beem(s) fuc*ing up the projection picture
2. the need for a perfect shape reflector.
when using mirror reflectors i figered that it reflects so good that its like having multiple bulb (on the beem side not lumens).
which having multiple beems is bad(some one posted that to me here at this forum).but using mirrors you basicaly get all the light that you can possibly get form the bulb. so i deside the mix the light all togetter like how nomal back lit lcds are done but i use tissu paper (basicaly) so more light gose through. i got to put a uv filter in so it limits the heat and separrates the box so i can use fan without breaking the hot glass and mirrors,so ill attach the tissu (or something simular) between the uv filter and glass
(or maybe that special glass that lets cold light through or something).
to phazei
my 900x700 res. lcd is ok for full screen but for wide screen movies it sucks (cause in wide screen you only use about 2/3 of you res.).im planing to go higher res one day when the cash appears. so i sujest going higher unless your using it just for a computer that dose less res. than that etc. you get what im sayin right.thats my opinion, you and others dont need to agree with my sh*t l.o.l. .
sorry this post is so long i just wanted to be clear about this stuff
cause im thinkin you guys might disagree without the info i put here.
also you guys know anyone who wants to buy a 400watt sodium bulb with the ballast kit and socket(bypass socket done by me)
only 20 minutes used. costed me $155 last week brand new
i'll sell for about $70-$90.00 . send them my why.
thanks
😀 😀 😀 😀
this morrning i went to take back my 400 watt hps bulb and ballast. they wouldnt take it back. so now im sol $180 u.s. .
i asked the guy there "how much lumens do the metal halide bulbs he had perduce. he got the book out but he didnt understand it to well so i looked at it. it saw something kinda ****ed up guys. the 400watt metal halide bulbs initial @ 40,000
lumens then when fully lit they where only 26,000 lumens
i forgot the word they used to disscribe that but thats what the guy told me when i asked him why dose it show 2 specs on the lumens.so i think thats a fact here.
next
last night i made a mirror reflector(really easy same as cutting glass with the $4.00 glass cutter)
.................... __________tissu between frensal & reflector
.................../.....................|.|.|
................./.......................|.|.|.......|...........|
.................|..o...................|.|.|.......|...........|
..................\......................|.|.|.......|...........|lcd delta lenz
....................\____________|.|.|.......|
.......................mirrors............two
............................................frensal
.........................................smooth sides
......................................tord light and lcd
...................................ithink better focus of
.............................................light.
between the reflector and the frensal lenz i got a napkin and took a layer of it to mix all the light beems some what evenly.
yes it dose take a little light away but gets rid of two things
1. the bright beem(s) fuc*ing up the projection picture
2. the need for a perfect shape reflector.
when using mirror reflectors i figered that it reflects so good that its like having multiple bulb (on the beem side not lumens).
which having multiple beems is bad(some one posted that to me here at this forum).but using mirrors you basicaly get all the light that you can possibly get form the bulb. so i deside the mix the light all togetter like how nomal back lit lcds are done but i use tissu paper (basicaly) so more light gose through. i got to put a uv filter in so it limits the heat and separrates the box so i can use fan without breaking the hot glass and mirrors,so ill attach the tissu (or something simular) between the uv filter and glass
(or maybe that special glass that lets cold light through or something).
to phazei
my 900x700 res. lcd is ok for full screen but for wide screen movies it sucks (cause in wide screen you only use about 2/3 of you res.).im planing to go higher res one day when the cash appears. so i sujest going higher unless your using it just for a computer that dose less res. than that etc. you get what im sayin right.thats my opinion, you and others dont need to agree with my sh*t l.o.l. .
sorry this post is so long i just wanted to be clear about this stuff
cause im thinkin you guys might disagree without the info i put here.
also you guys know anyone who wants to buy a 400watt sodium bulb with the ballast kit and socket(bypass socket done by me)
only 20 minutes used. costed me $155 last week brand new
i'll sell for about $70-$90.00 . send them my why.
thanks
😀 😀 😀 😀
vdi_nenna said:
That would depend on how many of them you had to run to get the same 'brightness' as a standard MH or equivalent bulb. They 'individually' get hot enough that you're supposed to heat sink them for continuous duty as suggested in the review.
If you had/needed an array of more than a couple dozen, not only would you not save any money, but heat would creep back into the equation.
Enjoy.
super dave
its probly your polarizer coming off or the power is to low read my post a couple pages back about scrabled lcd problem i came across and fix my self.
at your service,
biteon
😀 😀 😀 😀
its probly your polarizer coming off or the power is to low read my post a couple pages back about scrabled lcd problem i came across and fix my self.
at your service,
biteon
😀 😀 😀 😀
biteon: you can sell the HPS kit on E-bay as a Grow light. All kinds of people who grow plants indoors use them, and I'm sure someone will snatch it up for at least $80.
As for the multiple lumen ratings of bulbs... Metal Halide bulbs (and other kinds) get dimmer throughout their life. Hence, you are given an Initial value, and a Mean value (average).
Initial Lumens: The amount of lumens the bulb outputs when plugged in for the first time.
Mean Lumens: The amount of lumens the bulb outputs after 40% of its rated life.
Say your bulb has 40,000 initial, 28,000 mean, and a 20,000 hour life. When the bulb has been burning for 8,000 hours (and has 12,000 left), it will probably only have an output of about 28,000 lumens.
Its not a huge deal. The bulbs cost ~30 each. If we used our projectors 4 hours a day, an entire year of projecting would only add up to 1,460 hours, and the lumen rating would be a couple thousand lumens less than what it was when you bought it new. After 2 or 3 or 4 years, if your image is getting kind of dim, Go pickup a new bulb for $30!!!
As for the multiple lumen ratings of bulbs... Metal Halide bulbs (and other kinds) get dimmer throughout their life. Hence, you are given an Initial value, and a Mean value (average).
Initial Lumens: The amount of lumens the bulb outputs when plugged in for the first time.
Mean Lumens: The amount of lumens the bulb outputs after 40% of its rated life.
Say your bulb has 40,000 initial, 28,000 mean, and a 20,000 hour life. When the bulb has been burning for 8,000 hours (and has 12,000 left), it will probably only have an output of about 28,000 lumens.
Its not a huge deal. The bulbs cost ~30 each. If we used our projectors 4 hours a day, an entire year of projecting would only add up to 1,460 hours, and the lumen rating would be a couple thousand lumens less than what it was when you bought it new. After 2 or 3 or 4 years, if your image is getting kind of dim, Go pickup a new bulb for $30!!!
I'm just curious, but with the 400W MH bulbs, you're basically going for a projector that can be seen while the lights are on?
or is it really necessary when the lights are off,
to have such a strong bulb?
I'm looking around right now at bulbs.... so many diff types.
Question: I don't mind having the lights off wit he projector. What type of light would you guys recommend for this scenario?
bah, I still have to save up to get an OHP now.... boo...
thanks 😀
or is it really necessary when the lights are off,
to have such a strong bulb?
I'm looking around right now at bulbs.... so many diff types.
Question: I don't mind having the lights off wit he projector. What type of light would you guys recommend for this scenario?
bah, I still have to save up to get an OHP now.... boo...
thanks 😀
Re: done with the behemoth of a thread
We've noticed, but the little turd has sorta found his niche around here anyway. 🙂 🙂 🙄
Enjoy.
We've noticed, but the little turd has sorta found his niche around here anyway. 🙂 🙂 🙄
Enjoy.
Re: HAHAHA
How do you know I only have a fraction of your knowledge? Just like you said in your post, you do not show your full potential in this forum. Maybe i don't either... 🙂
But... you should actually show us all your knowledge. It would help us find a solution faster. You had mentionned a while back that you found a good way to keep the bulbs cool. But didn't want to thare the plans. I can't remember if you did or not, but could you explain those plans again plz.
We are all knowledgeable in different areas. I'm a computer programmer and thus i'm most likely smarter than you at programming. Just like you are probably smarter than me in your field.
I'm curious...
and i quote :
"I think that the only people who do work here are Cowrang, Undream, Biteon, Vince and me (eventhough i do not post things), "
How does this mean you do work here, if you are not contributing your work here?
As for the panel, should have called before buying. or asked the seller. I called infocus right away when i saw the panel, to find out. The people here might know, but if you call infocus directly you can get an infocus response which cannot be wrong. I'm not saying people here are wrong, they just might not have dealt with that lcd panel yet, and might not be sure if it's TFT or STN.
prjctr_builder said:
How do you know I only have a fraction of your knowledge? Just like you said in your post, you do not show your full potential in this forum. Maybe i don't either... 🙂
But... you should actually show us all your knowledge. It would help us find a solution faster. You had mentionned a while back that you found a good way to keep the bulbs cool. But didn't want to thare the plans. I can't remember if you did or not, but could you explain those plans again plz.
We are all knowledgeable in different areas. I'm a computer programmer and thus i'm most likely smarter than you at programming. Just like you are probably smarter than me in your field.
I'm curious...
and i quote :
"I think that the only people who do work here are Cowrang, Undream, Biteon, Vince and me (eventhough i do not post things), "
How does this mean you do work here, if you are not contributing your work here?
As for the panel, should have called before buying. or asked the seller. I called infocus right away when i saw the panel, to find out. The people here might know, but if you call infocus directly you can get an infocus response which cannot be wrong. I'm not saying people here are wrong, they just might not have dealt with that lcd panel yet, and might not be sure if it's TFT or STN.
Well, I want something that can be seen during the day, with the lights off of course, but, windows cracked / windowblinds pulled up. Lots of ambient light there from outside. If I have to pull all the blinds in my house, its not a huge deal, but, I'd prefer to have the flexibility. Right now,I've got a projector thats fine in evenings with blinds pulled, but, is kinda dim during the day. Hoping the new bulb and reflector will take care of that. Not only is this going to be for watching movies, but, its also going to be my new TV! 🙂
Also, some of the biggest contributers that I feel you are forgetting about as of the past few months have been Marklar, fender4, Scot_lad, SuperDave, etc..
fender4 is cool. hehe.
Also, some of the biggest contributers that I feel you are forgetting about as of the past few months have been Marklar, fender4, Scot_lad, SuperDave, etc..
fender4 is cool. hehe.
Undream said:
hmm cool cool, this gives me a better idea of what scenario you're going for.
Unfortunatly I would like to go the same route as you. Why unfortunately? Cause i fear it'll cost more ;-) hehehe
But if for the first year I have to keep the lights off all around, then i'll go for it. Just actually completing a project like this would be pretty cool 🙂
You guys have come a long way and it's pretty cool what you can accomplish when you get a bunch of heads together.
congrats, I can only hope to get an image as clear as i've seen in some of the pics on the board. 😀
undream
i was thinking it was when the bulb light it hits 40,000 lms then dorp to 26,000 lums. but yeah thats a dope way to look at what your saying. basicaly one 400 watt bulb last 5.5 years at that usage for our needs.
also i just remembered when i took apart this sh*ty slide projector i got at the good will i saw a whitish frost tinted glass between the light bulb and where the slide picture gose. maybe it kinda like what im doing/ gonna do with glass filters. mixing the light so there isnt that bright spot and reduses the heat.
also the screen door effect. maybe the reason for the grain on the realy projection screens its to make the eye think its a higher res. than what it really it. also when not using digital but film
to make it look sharper to the eye. like figer this: on a smooth screen using a film projector. where the two different colors meet on the smooth screen is probly blurry.but on a grian screen it has a bunch of little square's so where the two different color meet might be in a small square and the eye picks up the majority color in the square.basicaly the eye is kinda fooled to choose a color per square. the squares perimeter is fine and sharp to the eye. there for making the conection of those two color on a fine line.
sharper picture.
im so shock right now cause i only talk like that when im drunk.lol
or maybe a fine screen in front of the lcd. ????
dudes im so close to getting this perfected.
😀 😀 😀 😀
i was thinking it was when the bulb light it hits 40,000 lms then dorp to 26,000 lums. but yeah thats a dope way to look at what your saying. basicaly one 400 watt bulb last 5.5 years at that usage for our needs.
also i just remembered when i took apart this sh*ty slide projector i got at the good will i saw a whitish frost tinted glass between the light bulb and where the slide picture gose. maybe it kinda like what im doing/ gonna do with glass filters. mixing the light so there isnt that bright spot and reduses the heat.
also the screen door effect. maybe the reason for the grain on the realy projection screens its to make the eye think its a higher res. than what it really it. also when not using digital but film
to make it look sharper to the eye. like figer this: on a smooth screen using a film projector. where the two different colors meet on the smooth screen is probly blurry.but on a grian screen it has a bunch of little square's so where the two different color meet might be in a small square and the eye picks up the majority color in the square.basicaly the eye is kinda fooled to choose a color per square. the squares perimeter is fine and sharp to the eye. there for making the conection of those two color on a fine line.
sharper picture.
im so shock right now cause i only talk like that when im drunk.lol
or maybe a fine screen in front of the lcd. ????
dudes im so close to getting this perfected.
😀 😀 😀 😀
Undream said:
great point... plus, i think with an efficient enough design, even 30K lumen could work out fine...
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