SuperDave said:
SuperDave:
I gave up looking for cheap fresnels and ordered 2 from fresneltech for $120 each (16" x 16" and an 18" focal length)... not exactly the price I was hoping for. I will post pics when they arrive (1-2 weeks).
🙁
CR
LCD size
Does anyone know what the biggest sized LCD screen you can use with a projector? Or does that depend on what kind of lense you use? ... That was probably a dumb question, but forgive me, I'm new at this..
Does anyone know what the biggest sized LCD screen you can use with a projector? Or does that depend on what kind of lense you use? ... That was probably a dumb question, but forgive me, I'm new at this..
Ry4n...dont worry, it wasnt a dumb question. There really is no maximum size for the LCD. You are right that it all depends on the lenses. More specifically the fresnels. This is basically what we have been talking about the last few posts. A number of us have 15" LCD screens and I think some may have 17". The fresnel lenses that come in OHP are only about 10"x10" so they do not push light through the entire screen. I, as well as others are trying to find cheap fresnels that are bigger than our LCD (they must be bigger to work properly) and are having a hard time. But theoretically you can whatever size LCD you want as long as your fresnels are bigger. Just remember the bigger the LCD the bigger the fresnel, the more likely you will have a longer focal length, and the bigger your projector becomes.
Hope that helps,
Dave
Hope that helps,
Dave
Chuck...do you have a 17" screen???
That is what I eventually planned to go to if I cant find 1280x1024 in a 15" screen. The 16" x 16" will work great even if you go to a 19" monitor I think.
I did find some 10"X12" plastic fresnels while searching for a few hours today. And the focal lenght was only like 8" or so. My screen is 9" x 10.1" so I might end up losing a few rows (like 10) of pixels if I go that route and if the 10"x12" is actual lens size and not the sheet size...I would like to find bigger cheap plastic lenses if possible... I am sure we will eventually find them at some place like surplus shack or something.
Good luck,
Dave
That is what I eventually planned to go to if I cant find 1280x1024 in a 15" screen. The 16" x 16" will work great even if you go to a 19" monitor I think.
I did find some 10"X12" plastic fresnels while searching for a few hours today. And the focal lenght was only like 8" or so. My screen is 9" x 10.1" so I might end up losing a few rows (like 10) of pixels if I go that route and if the 10"x12" is actual lens size and not the sheet size...I would like to find bigger cheap plastic lenses if possible... I am sure we will eventually find them at some place like surplus shack or something.
Good luck,
Dave
WOW
okay. I got a message from Buddy at www.affordablelighting.com the other day. I just returned his call this morning, and I am astounded.
He found our thread on the 'net, and read my posts, and saw that he had shipped me the wrong bulb (MH instead of the quoted MS). He called to make things right.
He is going to send me a free bulb. Its going to be a larger size (they dont make ED28 MS's i guess), but, this time it *will* be an MS. I talked to him for a while, and he actually seems interested in our project. I told him that I blew out the bulb, but it was completely my fault, and he chuckled with me a bit. BUDDY RULES. I gave him my website address and explained to him a few things about our project.
Anyway, I'm astounded by their customer service, and can't believe that they are going to send me another bulb free.
All I can say is, everyone who needs a metal halide setup, Go with them. for the love of god, go with them. Mention me (Brad in Michigan) or our project and maybe he'll give you a discount. hahah. ok maybe not.
Again, his number is:
1-800-683-8825 and ask for Buddy.
*end commercial*
anyways, I'm one happy guy.
okay. I got a message from Buddy at www.affordablelighting.com the other day. I just returned his call this morning, and I am astounded.
He found our thread on the 'net, and read my posts, and saw that he had shipped me the wrong bulb (MH instead of the quoted MS). He called to make things right.
He is going to send me a free bulb. Its going to be a larger size (they dont make ED28 MS's i guess), but, this time it *will* be an MS. I talked to him for a while, and he actually seems interested in our project. I told him that I blew out the bulb, but it was completely my fault, and he chuckled with me a bit. BUDDY RULES. I gave him my website address and explained to him a few things about our project.
Anyway, I'm astounded by their customer service, and can't believe that they are going to send me another bulb free.
All I can say is, everyone who needs a metal halide setup, Go with them. for the love of god, go with them. Mention me (Brad in Michigan) or our project and maybe he'll give you a discount. hahah. ok maybe not.
Again, his number is:
1-800-683-8825 and ask for Buddy.
*end commercial*
anyways, I'm one happy guy.
SuperDave:
I do not even have an LCD yet. I plan to use a VG150, but you are right... the 16x16 fresnels are big enough to accomodate a 17" LCD. The problem is that the source needs to be at the focal length of the fresnel, so if the beam divergence angle of the source is too small, I will not be able to fill a 17" LCD even though the fresnel is big enough. I have done my best estimate of the beam divergence angle, and I think I will be able to use a 15" LCD with no problem. If the 17" LCD also works, I may upgrade in the future, but right now I would be more than satisfied with XGA resolution.
CR
I do not even have an LCD yet. I plan to use a VG150, but you are right... the 16x16 fresnels are big enough to accomodate a 17" LCD. The problem is that the source needs to be at the focal length of the fresnel, so if the beam divergence angle of the source is too small, I will not be able to fill a 17" LCD even though the fresnel is big enough. I have done my best estimate of the beam divergence angle, and I think I will be able to use a 15" LCD with no problem. If the 17" LCD also works, I may upgrade in the future, but right now I would be more than satisfied with XGA resolution.
CR
woohoooo
it came it came it came 🙂 my panel FINALLY arrived.....arizona via teh south pole, back around teh corner and finally down under...all in 8 weeks!! 🙁 at least it's in one piece, and i can finally start putting some decent input to this forum....thanks for keeping this ideas alive fellas, at least i haven' t lost motivation 🙂
it came it came it came 🙂 my panel FINALLY arrived.....arizona via teh south pole, back around teh corner and finally down under...all in 8 weeks!! 🙁 at least it's in one piece, and i can finally start putting some decent input to this forum....thanks for keeping this ideas alive fellas, at least i haven' t lost motivation 🙂
I've stepped up to the plate
Way to go dude! I won an Nview ViewFrame off ebay this week and it is lacking a power supply as well. Seller says he's using a universal 12v that he isn't supplying me, but I shouldn't have any problem finding a replacement at Radio Shack. I'll let everybody know how happy/sad I am about it when it gets here next week.
I'll give more info when I get my hands on the unit. Doesn't your unit have the voltage/polarity listed on the case where the power supply should plug in? I've noticed in auctions for similar panels that the power supply appears to be a standard wall type low wattage transformer.
Now I just need an overhead projector and I'm off to the races.
Enjoy.
jco9w said:
Way to go dude! I won an Nview ViewFrame off ebay this week and it is lacking a power supply as well. Seller says he's using a universal 12v that he isn't supplying me, but I shouldn't have any problem finding a replacement at Radio Shack. I'll let everybody know how happy/sad I am about it when it gets here next week.
I'll give more info when I get my hands on the unit. Doesn't your unit have the voltage/polarity listed on the case where the power supply should plug in? I've noticed in auctions for similar panels that the power supply appears to be a standard wall type low wattage transformer.
Now I just need an overhead projector and I'm off to the races.
Enjoy.
For those looking for nView power supplies...
My nView Spectra C has a 12V 2 amp DC power supply, with a pretty standard looking barrel connector at the panel. If your panel is anything like mine, it should be fairly easy to find a suitable supply. I would recommend not going less than 2 amps on the supply, which would probably limit your choices. It gets pretty warm, so less than 2 amps might not cut it.
Good luck!
My nView Spectra C has a 12V 2 amp DC power supply, with a pretty standard looking barrel connector at the panel. If your panel is anything like mine, it should be fairly easy to find a suitable supply. I would recommend not going less than 2 amps on the supply, which would probably limit your choices. It gets pretty warm, so less than 2 amps might not cut it.
Good luck!
Update
Well I just made a stand to hold the bulb and reflector I got and its brighter than the sun well just about. I can hold a peice of paper right infront of the reflector and in the very center it burns about a 1.5 inch diamater hole in it in about 3 seconds so Id say thats prolly all the light that im going to need. I would recomend a compact 400W MH to everyone this light is awsome!!
Well I just made a stand to hold the bulb and reflector I got and its brighter than the sun well just about. I can hold a peice of paper right infront of the reflector and in the very center it burns about a 1.5 inch diamater hole in it in about 3 seconds so Id say thats prolly all the light that im going to need. I would recomend a compact 400W MH to everyone this light is awsome!!
Well, my 600 watt DYS bulb (for my OHP) just blew. I have run it for probably 10 hours, so I am assuming it was near its end when I received it.
So instead of spending $20 to replace a VERY HOT and inefficient, short-lived bulb, I am going to go the 400 watt MH route.
Marklar, what is you reflector set-up? Sorry if you have posted it before...I've been out of the loop lately.
-f4
So instead of spending $20 to replace a VERY HOT and inefficient, short-lived bulb, I am going to go the 400 watt MH route.
Marklar, what is you reflector set-up? Sorry if you have posted it before...I've been out of the loop lately.
-f4
Ballast Noise and heat?? And Page references!
Just wondering, those who got the older (?) style Advance (or another) MH ballasts, is there any noise or hum? I think one of the most important parameters is this project is noise and heat. I always thought that the 'newer' electronic type ballasts are ideal because by design there are quiet and effiecent. Of course there is not a huge supply of surplus electronic ballasts, so cost is a bit more...
This is all a null point if those cheap Advance ballast's are quiet and cool... are they??? (Underdream or anyone)
And one more thing, as far as page refereces, could you please refer to the date? It is a lot easier that way, all you would have to do then is to scoll down and find it (in print page view). Many of us have customized the articles per pages, and they don't match up, and older messages take forever to back track...
Just wondering, those who got the older (?) style Advance (or another) MH ballasts, is there any noise or hum? I think one of the most important parameters is this project is noise and heat. I always thought that the 'newer' electronic type ballasts are ideal because by design there are quiet and effiecent. Of course there is not a huge supply of surplus electronic ballasts, so cost is a bit more...
This is all a null point if those cheap Advance ballast's are quiet and cool... are they??? (Underdream or anyone)
And one more thing, as far as page refereces, could you please refer to the date? It is a lot easier that way, all you would have to do then is to scoll down and find it (in print page view). Many of us have customized the articles per pages, and they don't match up, and older messages take forever to back track...
Bring yall up to speed
Well the ballast for the MH bulbs will hum IF you dont have it screwed down tight, if it is secured well you dont have to worry about that. They do get hot to I plan to stick heat sinks on 3 sides of mine and mount an 80mm fan that will blow on it. Here is my light setup so I can test it before I build the box.
This is very bright you CAN NOT look directly at this when it on you will see spots for like 10 min I have to wear super dark glasses when Im messin with it.
Here is the inside the bulb is about 6 inches from the front of the reflector.
This is what happens to cardboard after a few seconds in front of the light. DONT STICK YOUR HAND THERE IT HURTS!!
Thats the hole after a few seconds in the light so it is a VERY focused beam and it will need a UV filter I will be useing a small peice of Low-E glass found at home depot and see what that will do. Well thats all for now any questions?
Well the ballast for the MH bulbs will hum IF you dont have it screwed down tight, if it is secured well you dont have to worry about that. They do get hot to I plan to stick heat sinks on 3 sides of mine and mount an 80mm fan that will blow on it. Here is my light setup so I can test it before I build the box.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is very bright you CAN NOT look directly at this when it on you will see spots for like 10 min I have to wear super dark glasses when Im messin with it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here is the inside the bulb is about 6 inches from the front of the reflector.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is what happens to cardboard after a few seconds in front of the light. DONT STICK YOUR HAND THERE IT HURTS!!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thats the hole after a few seconds in the light so it is a VERY focused beam and it will need a UV filter I will be useing a small peice of Low-E glass found at home depot and see what that will do. Well thats all for now any questions?
The Advance ballast and Capacitor are slightly warm to the touch after 20 minutes running. The capacitor makes a slightly audible hum, but, as Marklar said, when bolted down it wont be a problem. other than that, its perfectly quiet and cool.
Here are the latest pictures of my setup. I'm using a BT37 bulb now (yes, this is one of those huge whoppers from Home Depot). Waiting for my MS400 to come from affordablelighting.
Okay, my digital camera *SUCKS* in the dark. seriously, its horrible. It automatically brightens the image so that everything is clearer, but, what happens when it does that is it washes everything out. I snapped 4 pics with our real 35mm camera, and will 1 hour photo them tomorrow. this is the best I can get out of my camera, which is pretty bad. I'd say the image looks 5 times brighter, 5 times clearer, and has a TON more contrast than what this looks like.
Also, this is with a flat piece of aluminum as the back of the projector 'box'. Thats right, basically no reflector. its about 20% darker when I don't have the aluminum there at all. When I slightly bend the aluminum, I can see it get brighter. Once I make this aluminum the right shape, and build a finalized box, I'm going to have a helluva projector on my hands.
Here are the latest pictures of my setup. I'm using a BT37 bulb now (yes, this is one of those huge whoppers from Home Depot). Waiting for my MS400 to come from affordablelighting.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Okay, my digital camera *SUCKS* in the dark. seriously, its horrible. It automatically brightens the image so that everything is clearer, but, what happens when it does that is it washes everything out. I snapped 4 pics with our real 35mm camera, and will 1 hour photo them tomorrow. this is the best I can get out of my camera, which is pretty bad. I'd say the image looks 5 times brighter, 5 times clearer, and has a TON more contrast than what this looks like.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Also, this is with a flat piece of aluminum as the back of the projector 'box'. Thats right, basically no reflector. its about 20% darker when I don't have the aluminum there at all. When I slightly bend the aluminum, I can see it get brighter. Once I make this aluminum the right shape, and build a finalized box, I'm going to have a helluva projector on my hands.
reflector
Marklar that is an awesome reflector do you know what it is called so if i walked in to a light supply house and asked about one they would know what i am talking about?
my projector is almost done all i need now is a MH light and a reflector and
maybe a better projection lens
-Atomos
Marklar that is an awesome reflector do you know what it is called so if i walked in to a light supply house and asked about one they would know what i am talking about?
my projector is almost done all i need now is a MH light and a reflector and
maybe a better projection lens
-Atomos
Australia
Hello, I have not posted for at least 50 pages but I have not had anything to say, I also lost interest in my projector, I had my modifyed overhead projector using a holgen globe going, got board with its heat and did not want to spend any more money. I just have to get a video projector so I am back! I live in Australia and am going to look for a MH globe set up, will look for on like Undreams, if not I will work with Gav1 who is also in Australia and we can pool out Australian resources. Using a pre condencer is needed becuase it allows the light to be focused to a point, if are using a non point light source it focuses the light down to a point. If you have a holgen like I did with many coils that was not even close to a point caused the image to be fuzzy around writing and was not sharp, using a condencer will overcome this problem. Rember to everyone building a projector, put a thermal fuse in, one that is self reseting! I had mine in my modifyed OHP to shut down the globe yet keep the fans running to exust the heat. Gav1 if you read this please reply and lets talk about what kind of globe you are gonna use, I am going to go and find one at a local lamp replacment shop, stock globes for like projectors and everything. Just an note on a source of small SVGA res LCD's this link might be of help, it comes with 2 of them so 2 people could buy then and split the cost- http://www.i-glasses.com/Store/SVGA2.php3. That is my 2 cents for now!
Hello, I have not posted for at least 50 pages but I have not had anything to say, I also lost interest in my projector, I had my modifyed overhead projector using a holgen globe going, got board with its heat and did not want to spend any more money. I just have to get a video projector so I am back! I live in Australia and am going to look for a MH globe set up, will look for on like Undreams, if not I will work with Gav1 who is also in Australia and we can pool out Australian resources. Using a pre condencer is needed becuase it allows the light to be focused to a point, if are using a non point light source it focuses the light down to a point. If you have a holgen like I did with many coils that was not even close to a point caused the image to be fuzzy around writing and was not sharp, using a condencer will overcome this problem. Rember to everyone building a projector, put a thermal fuse in, one that is self reseting! I had mine in my modifyed OHP to shut down the globe yet keep the fans running to exust the heat. Gav1 if you read this please reply and lets talk about what kind of globe you are gonna use, I am going to go and find one at a local lamp replacment shop, stock globes for like projectors and everything. Just an note on a source of small SVGA res LCD's this link might be of help, it comes with 2 of them so 2 people could buy then and split the cost- http://www.i-glasses.com/Store/SVGA2.php3. That is my 2 cents for now!
hi fiat1
hi m8, i was wondering if u were going 2 reply to this board again...muzzman is also from downunder (melbourne i think)
as stated just b4 my panel arrived...including a $40 parking fine and $30 transaction fee all up the ovation 820 panel cost me $260 aust...
2nite i botched up a setup..sorry i don't have a camera 4 shots but i'll pinch works camera on tuesday (long weekend - woohoo)
in this order i had : 55w 37degree spread dichroric (spelling?) down light, approx 40cm long cardboard box, plastic $3 fresnel, 2cm gap then ovation panel (upside down and switched left to right to compensate for lenses) , aprox 30cm of carboard box and then another $3 fresnel, about 7 feet then my projection screen, displaying approx 3 feet by 2 feet perfect image 🙂 i could see it sorta ok with lights on but a hellovalot better with all lights off and trying to cover up all of the light loss from the boxes taped 2gether 🙂 it kicked *** compared to the 100inch thingy (the whole reason 4 doing this) ....i look forward to finding a better optical system down here - we don't have anything like surplusshed in aust (that i know of) ..interesting snippet of info was the light i was using - the dichroric lights give off 90% of their heat to the rear, i had it running for about 1/2 hour and the panel wasn't even LOOKing like getting warm, something to consider
hi m8, i was wondering if u were going 2 reply to this board again...muzzman is also from downunder (melbourne i think)
as stated just b4 my panel arrived...including a $40 parking fine and $30 transaction fee all up the ovation 820 panel cost me $260 aust...
2nite i botched up a setup..sorry i don't have a camera 4 shots but i'll pinch works camera on tuesday (long weekend - woohoo)
in this order i had : 55w 37degree spread dichroric (spelling?) down light, approx 40cm long cardboard box, plastic $3 fresnel, 2cm gap then ovation panel (upside down and switched left to right to compensate for lenses) , aprox 30cm of carboard box and then another $3 fresnel, about 7 feet then my projection screen, displaying approx 3 feet by 2 feet perfect image 🙂 i could see it sorta ok with lights on but a hellovalot better with all lights off and trying to cover up all of the light loss from the boxes taped 2gether 🙂 it kicked *** compared to the 100inch thingy (the whole reason 4 doing this) ....i look forward to finding a better optical system down here - we don't have anything like surplusshed in aust (that i know of) ..interesting snippet of info was the light i was using - the dichroric lights give off 90% of their heat to the rear, i had it running for about 1/2 hour and the panel wasn't even LOOKing like getting warm, something to consider
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