HELLO?
can you give me the idea of an LCD that would work with my PC right away, give me some links plz!!!!
I cannot tell you the way that i am cooling the lamp and conserving the light YET, but i swear that i will tell you very soon. Please tell me the link where i can get an LCD for under 110-130$.
Also the other question i have is why are you using the LCD's with so low resolution, the image produced will suck!!!
wouldn't it be better to use a larger LCD (like 14-15") and have and excellent resolution. Remmember that light loss issue that happens when the LCD is too bog for the lenses is not an issue any more!!!
help me plz, i may be your only way to successs, hehe!!!
ALEKSEY
can you give me the idea of an LCD that would work with my PC right away, give me some links plz!!!!
I cannot tell you the way that i am cooling the lamp and conserving the light YET, but i swear that i will tell you very soon. Please tell me the link where i can get an LCD for under 110-130$.
Also the other question i have is why are you using the LCD's with so low resolution, the image produced will suck!!!
wouldn't it be better to use a larger LCD (like 14-15") and have and excellent resolution. Remmember that light loss issue that happens when the LCD is too bog for the lenses is not an issue any more!!!
help me plz, i may be your only way to successs, hehe!!!
ALEKSEY
Fender
Hint: When you need to search for info in this seemingly endless thread, click on the "Show printable version" link at the bottom of the page.
You are my hero!!!!!! Thanks for the great hint. I was getting frustrated by not being able to search properly.
lokost
Ouch!! 2,000??? I'd try with the camera for $80 😉
Thanks for the info.
BTW, got my LCP panel and I can say that Im pretty impressed with the "quality" of a 100:1 640x480 panel/OHP. Im displaying 75" 4x3 (my room is only 11ft and the focus of the OHP is a 14")
I don't even need the room dark to watch. No motion problems. Perfect. I think I have the right panel (large one) to start working for a while on a true DIY project.
I can watch during the night and day as well (with curtains closed)
Hint: When you need to search for info in this seemingly endless thread, click on the "Show printable version" link at the bottom of the page.
You are my hero!!!!!! Thanks for the great hint. I was getting frustrated by not being able to search properly.
lokost
Ouch!! 2,000??? I'd try with the camera for $80 😉
Thanks for the info.
BTW, got my LCP panel and I can say that Im pretty impressed with the "quality" of a 100:1 640x480 panel/OHP. Im displaying 75" 4x3 (my room is only 11ft and the focus of the OHP is a 14")
I don't even need the room dark to watch. No motion problems. Perfect. I think I have the right panel (large one) to start working for a while on a true DIY project.
I can watch during the night and day as well (with curtains closed)
you know....
ya know ya gotta give a little to get a little aleksey 😉
(added bit)
bTW, ebay aust has this : http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI...&showTutorial=0&ed=1022555911&indexURL=0&rd=1
at the mo, not entirely sure what reserve is tho...as it say sit comes without globe, does anyone see a concern with modifying it to house a different (ie cheaper) bulb?? just a thought...
ya know ya gotta give a little to get a little aleksey 😉
(added bit)
bTW, ebay aust has this : http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI...&showTutorial=0&ed=1022555911&indexURL=0&rd=1
at the mo, not entirely sure what reserve is tho...as it say sit comes without globe, does anyone see a concern with modifying it to house a different (ie cheaper) bulb?? just a thought...
HEHE
I WILL GIVE YOU MY COOLING METHOD TOMMOROW BECAUSE I NEED TO MAKE THE PLANS, IT IS A BIT COMPLICATED
ALEKSEY
I WILL GIVE YOU MY COOLING METHOD TOMMOROW BECAUSE I NEED TO MAKE THE PLANS, IT IS A BIT COMPLICATED
ALEKSEY
Use only 1.8" or smaller in slide projector
Sharkwong,
Dont get the 2.5" you will find it difficult to mount in a slide projector.
You are correct about it being 2x2 in a slide projector well. And, the .2" left over is covering for the frame of a slide itself.
Stick to 1.8" or less. It fits just perfectly for every projector I've mounted one in (No, lost picture). Must have been why the designers made this size common, originally.
That size is used on the back of digital camera's too. Maybe, easy to find since so many of them. But, I'm still hunting for a reputable dealer for the high-res (520x240) ones. Or, you can purchase the 320x240 currently from Unipac ~100$.
Lots to search! Come over to the DIY small panel thread for more!
Sharkwong,
Dont get the 2.5" you will find it difficult to mount in a slide projector.
You are correct about it being 2x2 in a slide projector well. And, the .2" left over is covering for the frame of a slide itself.
Stick to 1.8" or less. It fits just perfectly for every projector I've mounted one in (No, lost picture). Must have been why the designers made this size common, originally.
That size is used on the back of digital camera's too. Maybe, easy to find since so many of them. But, I'm still hunting for a reputable dealer for the high-res (520x240) ones. Or, you can purchase the 320x240 currently from Unipac ~100$.
Lots to search! Come over to the DIY small panel thread for more!
here's a hint....
let me tell you a little story.....
i was building a projector with one of my friends, but right before we got the whole thing going, he had to move, to another city. he took the whole assmbly with himself, and told me that he will contact me. But i haven't heard from him since, i think he got it going... that is what usually happens when people succeed... Good thing is that i kept the lenses, we had 2 sets, and i have the whole plan in my head...hehe.
first we tried to use hlagen, then flourescent bulbs, and so on. but they were just too hot and he fried his LCD right away. Then we got a new LCD and designed a cooling system (water cooled).
right now you probably think that i am a noob, but no, the results were beyond all our expectations. we used a fan to draw the air out of the chamber where the bulb was, and on the other side of the chamber we made a hole and connected a 4" hose to it. then put a nomber of tubes through the hose, and connected the tubes together by rubber hoses. we used a small pump to circulate the coolant from the car (absorbs heat real good) through the tubes. what we got from that is the air that entered the lamp chamber was very cool, and most of the hear was drawn away...hehe. after a few modifications , the system worked flawlessly, and the pump was completely silent too.
later of course, i discovered the lamps from the new cars. they emit a lot more light, and a triple computer fans themselves can deal with the heat alright.
i hope that you understood what i mean.
i would like to know if any of you know where i can get Semi-Permiable mirrors, like the ones that are used in the rooms with witnesses and stuff ( it is like a normal mirror on one side and the other is a see-through side). i have an idea on how it may be handy.
also i think that we need to work together and develop a plan of our projects so that we can get this thing done a lot faster.
hope this is some help........ possbly not
aleksey
let me tell you a little story.....
i was building a projector with one of my friends, but right before we got the whole thing going, he had to move, to another city. he took the whole assmbly with himself, and told me that he will contact me. But i haven't heard from him since, i think he got it going... that is what usually happens when people succeed... Good thing is that i kept the lenses, we had 2 sets, and i have the whole plan in my head...hehe.
first we tried to use hlagen, then flourescent bulbs, and so on. but they were just too hot and he fried his LCD right away. Then we got a new LCD and designed a cooling system (water cooled).
right now you probably think that i am a noob, but no, the results were beyond all our expectations. we used a fan to draw the air out of the chamber where the bulb was, and on the other side of the chamber we made a hole and connected a 4" hose to it. then put a nomber of tubes through the hose, and connected the tubes together by rubber hoses. we used a small pump to circulate the coolant from the car (absorbs heat real good) through the tubes. what we got from that is the air that entered the lamp chamber was very cool, and most of the hear was drawn away...hehe. after a few modifications , the system worked flawlessly, and the pump was completely silent too.
later of course, i discovered the lamps from the new cars. they emit a lot more light, and a triple computer fans themselves can deal with the heat alright.
i hope that you understood what i mean.
i would like to know if any of you know where i can get Semi-Permiable mirrors, like the ones that are used in the rooms with witnesses and stuff ( it is like a normal mirror on one side and the other is a see-through side). i have an idea on how it may be handy.
also i think that we need to work together and develop a plan of our projects so that we can get this thing done a lot faster.
hope this is some help........ possbly not
aleksey
Aleksy
Do you plan on letting the light pass through the two-way mirror towards the LCD then any light that doesn't go through the LCD will be reflected again by the mirror, this time on the reflective side, to go through the LCD?
Good idea, but how is the light that doesn't go through the LCD properly going to get bounced back? It just gets lost. You can get polarisers that reflect light back if it's not at the right angle or polarization.
Good idea - because all we've been doing so far is posting our own information and ignoring everything that everyone else posts 😛
Do you plan on letting the light pass through the two-way mirror towards the LCD then any light that doesn't go through the LCD will be reflected again by the mirror, this time on the reflective side, to go through the LCD?
Good idea, but how is the light that doesn't go through the LCD properly going to get bounced back? It just gets lost. You can get polarisers that reflect light back if it's not at the right angle or polarization.
Good idea - because all we've been doing so far is posting our own information and ignoring everything that everyone else posts 😛
idea
Wow, this is getting really really long.
I'm currently still reading through all the pages till I hit the end. I wasn't going to post till I finished but I drew the attached picture while I was sitting here bored at work tonight and figured I might as well post it. I'm still at page 84 so it is going to be 35 some pages untill I actually get to any comments on it. O well.
O yeah, an idea for everyone doing the LCD with all the optics and not taking the OHP route.
Paint the inside of the box flat/dull black. Any light that reflects off the walls and goes through is just going to wash the image out since the light won't be parallel.
O yeah, just though of something on the picture. That picture with the reflector, if the light is at the focus point, most of what is getting bounced off of the reflector is parallel. I didn't draw the beams of light that would be coming out of the front of the bulb. Those would still be radiating from it at different angles. If a small fresnel was cut and put in front of it that would make most of the beam parallel. I'll draw another picture of it when I can.
I'm only at page 84 though
Wow, this is getting really really long.
I'm currently still reading through all the pages till I hit the end. I wasn't going to post till I finished but I drew the attached picture while I was sitting here bored at work tonight and figured I might as well post it. I'm still at page 84 so it is going to be 35 some pages untill I actually get to any comments on it. O well.
O yeah, an idea for everyone doing the LCD with all the optics and not taking the OHP route.
Paint the inside of the box flat/dull black. Any light that reflects off the walls and goes through is just going to wash the image out since the light won't be parallel.
O yeah, just though of something on the picture. That picture with the reflector, if the light is at the focus point, most of what is getting bounced off of the reflector is parallel. I didn't draw the beams of light that would be coming out of the front of the bulb. Those would still be radiating from it at different angles. If a small fresnel was cut and put in front of it that would make most of the beam parallel. I'll draw another picture of it when I can.
I'm only at page 84 though
Attachments
xblocker's pic
Xblocker, i can completely confirm that picture you posted as i today picked up a Prinzmatic 500 slide projector from a car boot sale for £10 (about $15 or something) which actually works, although i dont think im gonna be keeping the bulb thats in it, cos it would be impossible to get a replacement.
Main thing is, it has a nice lens, and just about every pcx dcv etc lens needed, in the exact config as your pic. I will try and dig out my digital camera and take a few pics.
Cya,
Xblocker, i can completely confirm that picture you posted as i today picked up a Prinzmatic 500 slide projector from a car boot sale for £10 (about $15 or something) which actually works, although i dont think im gonna be keeping the bulb thats in it, cos it would be impossible to get a replacement.
Main thing is, it has a nice lens, and just about every pcx dcv etc lens needed, in the exact config as your pic. I will try and dig out my digital camera and take a few pics.
Cya,
Phazei,
your last pic seems to be a good idea. The little lens just in front of the lightsource hasn't to be a fresnel, it also could be a normal glass lens. Nevertheless considering the lightrays which come parallel from the reflector are now refracted from the smaller lens out of the main lightpath and are lost. What you win with reflector is lost again, exept the little filament area. To eliminate unwanted light radiation maybe a blind or even a second reflector instead of a lens would be a better choice. A second reflector which reflects light back to the main reflector could be a huge gain, but is very tricky to calculate.
We should have a raytracing program for optical design to do that!
xblocker
your last pic seems to be a good idea. The little lens just in front of the lightsource hasn't to be a fresnel, it also could be a normal glass lens. Nevertheless considering the lightrays which come parallel from the reflector are now refracted from the smaller lens out of the main lightpath and are lost. What you win with reflector is lost again, exept the little filament area. To eliminate unwanted light radiation maybe a blind or even a second reflector instead of a lens would be a better choice. A second reflector which reflects light back to the main reflector could be a huge gain, but is very tricky to calculate.
We should have a raytracing program for optical design to do that!
xblocker
Hallo SushiMasterX, saya disini baik-baik saja, terima kasih.
Wish I'm an optics engineer, but actually my job nothing to do with all of this, I'm an architect.
Nice pictures in your website.
I'm too, still searching for the best LCD panel (size & price).
Your LCD panel seems perfect in size, but I need higher resolution (SVGA=600x800).
Sampai bertemu anda di Jakarta, e-mail me.
xblocker, thank's for your explanation, but you didn't mention what is the purpose having double filament image? Is it for reducing color aberration or something else? Tell me more, please.
Now about spherical aberration.
I think this solution will reduce spherical aberration problem, ---> "For lenses made with spherical surfaces, rays which are parallel to the optic axis but at different distances from the optic axis fail to converge to the same point."
Thanks Jamie for the links.
Just change the word "mirror" with "lens" in that links and now, it is relevant with my problem.
So IMO, we should use lens with diameter as large as we can find and blocking 1/3 to 1/2 of lens diameter.
I use PCX lens 41/2" dia., blocking it so the dia. become 2/12", the result is:
at 4 outer sides of projected image, now become sharper and better contrast, with a little bit reduce in overall brightness.
But....
that's not solving my problem with Chromatic Aberration --> "A lens will not focus different colors in exactly the same place because the focal length depends on refraction and the index of refraction for blue light (short wavelengths) is larger than that of red light (long wavelengths)."
Poor me.
Wish I'm an optics engineer, but actually my job nothing to do with all of this, I'm an architect.
Nice pictures in your website.
I'm too, still searching for the best LCD panel (size & price).
Your LCD panel seems perfect in size, but I need higher resolution (SVGA=600x800).
Sampai bertemu anda di Jakarta, e-mail me.
xblocker, thank's for your explanation, but you didn't mention what is the purpose having double filament image? Is it for reducing color aberration or something else? Tell me more, please.
Now about spherical aberration.
I think this solution will reduce spherical aberration problem, ---> "For lenses made with spherical surfaces, rays which are parallel to the optic axis but at different distances from the optic axis fail to converge to the same point."
Thanks Jamie for the links.
Just change the word "mirror" with "lens" in that links and now, it is relevant with my problem.
So IMO, we should use lens with diameter as large as we can find and blocking 1/3 to 1/2 of lens diameter.
I use PCX lens 41/2" dia., blocking it so the dia. become 2/12", the result is:
at 4 outer sides of projected image, now become sharper and better contrast, with a little bit reduce in overall brightness.
But....
that's not solving my problem with Chromatic Aberration --> "A lens will not focus different colors in exactly the same place because the focal length depends on refraction and the index of refraction for blue light (short wavelengths) is larger than that of red light (long wavelengths)."
Poor me.
Gunawan,
Doubling filament image has the simple intention to get more luminance. Note: This only matches for halogen lamps, not arc lamps!
Spherical and chromatic abberations can not be corrected with single lenses. Mostly correction is done with either 2 meniscus lenses or three and more lenses, OHPs have often double lenses or triplets. The more the F-ratio value tends to 1, the more correction lens elements have to be used.
xblocker
Doubling filament image has the simple intention to get more luminance. Note: This only matches for halogen lamps, not arc lamps!
Spherical and chromatic abberations can not be corrected with single lenses. Mostly correction is done with either 2 meniscus lenses or three and more lenses, OHPs have often double lenses or triplets. The more the F-ratio value tends to 1, the more correction lens elements have to be used.
xblocker
Gunawan
Gunawan,
So, you're saying that if I block about 1/3 or so of my 5 7/8" diameter PCX lens (say, to 4" or so?), my quality will be increased, at cost of some brightness? I've got an entirely working system right now, and, all I need is a brighter light source. After I get the newer light source, I'm going to be building a painted-black wood box to hold everything. The 10,500 lumen quartz halogen I'm using right now gets too hot and isn't bright enough. Its good enough for midnight viewing, but, thats about it.
Gunawan,
So, you're saying that if I block about 1/3 or so of my 5 7/8" diameter PCX lens (say, to 4" or so?), my quality will be increased, at cost of some brightness? I've got an entirely working system right now, and, all I need is a brighter light source. After I get the newer light source, I'm going to be building a painted-black wood box to hold everything. The 10,500 lumen quartz halogen I'm using right now gets too hot and isn't bright enough. Its good enough for midnight viewing, but, thats about it.
hmmmmmmm....
Just as i said before- everyone is talking about their own thing....
If we need a better resolution, why no use a larger LCD?!?!?
We can get those LCDs from monitors and just separate the LCD side from the rest of the assembly.
And stop giving yourselves headaches trying to find a light source, just buy a good set of car lights, the white ones, and if you want them any brighter (which i doubt) just increase the voltage!!!! it may give you a brightest bulb, with 15000 hours, i think i can live with that, ain't i right?
I am drawing a diagram right now, will be done soon!!!
Aleksey
Just as i said before- everyone is talking about their own thing....
If we need a better resolution, why no use a larger LCD?!?!?
We can get those LCDs from monitors and just separate the LCD side from the rest of the assembly.
And stop giving yourselves headaches trying to find a light source, just buy a good set of car lights, the white ones, and if you want them any brighter (which i doubt) just increase the voltage!!!! it may give you a brightest bulb, with 15000 hours, i think i can live with that, ain't i right?
I am drawing a diagram right now, will be done soon!!!
Aleksey
Dammit....
the first pic was too big, this one is hella small, if you want the begger picture, just email me at: predator3do@yahoo.com
the first pic was too big, this one is hella small, if you want the begger picture, just email me at: predator3do@yahoo.com
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