and scot_lad,
one more thing is that the commercial units use a small lcd panel with high res...0.9" XGA, SXGA..
and they utilize multiple panels(3) to achieve that kind of image quality...0.9" lcd panel of XGA res is pretty damn expensive if at all available to sole buyers....
one more thing is that the commercial units use a small lcd panel with high res...0.9" XGA, SXGA..
and they utilize multiple panels(3) to achieve that kind of image quality...0.9" lcd panel of XGA res is pretty damn expensive if at all available to sole buyers....
ZeCo said:
I cut out the page quote.
Actually someone else posted this same link back in mid febuary, I hadnt read that post yet when I posted the link again. So credit for first post of this page goes to that person.
I only caught up just now, solid reading all yesterday and today.
Still I'm surprised that only 2 of us found it.
To understand a bit more about the issue, take a digital watch (LCD screen) and a pair of polarized sunglasses (tinted wont work, they need to be true polarization). Place the unglasses on the watch and look at the watch through the glasses. Now rotate the glases or the watch(only rotate one for simplicity). you should find that one way you can see the watch clearly, and at about 90 deg from that you will find the entire watch screen goes black.
DIY screen
Someone was asking about the DIY screen. Here is the link.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=93780
It is a product called Plas_tex (something like that) from Parkland Plastics. They sell it in Lowes or Home depot for about $20 for a 4' x 8' sheet. This stuff is supposed to be amazing. I have bought a sheet a while back but have not tried projecting on it yet. If you want more info you should only need to read the first few pages on the link above.
I'm hoping to do some more work on my projector again...I've left it alone for a week or two. I bought a roll of aluminum a week ago to build the parabolic (OK quasi-parabolic) reflector to see if it help any.
I do have a question for Myren... What type of reflector are you using?? Also what type of light are you using and where did you get it?
Finally a general question....I'm not too concerned with heat and I am getting frustrated with getting enought light output. So...does anyone know how I can go about getting a light and ballast (flourescent I guess) like the ones in the projectos... that is ready or close to ready to use. I would like to get the thing going and then I could work out a cheaper light source in the futrue after I have watched some movies.
Good luck on your projects...
Dave
Someone was asking about the DIY screen. Here is the link.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?threadid=93780
It is a product called Plas_tex (something like that) from Parkland Plastics. They sell it in Lowes or Home depot for about $20 for a 4' x 8' sheet. This stuff is supposed to be amazing. I have bought a sheet a while back but have not tried projecting on it yet. If you want more info you should only need to read the first few pages on the link above.
I'm hoping to do some more work on my projector again...I've left it alone for a week or two. I bought a roll of aluminum a week ago to build the parabolic (OK quasi-parabolic) reflector to see if it help any.
I do have a question for Myren... What type of reflector are you using?? Also what type of light are you using and where did you get it?
Finally a general question....I'm not too concerned with heat and I am getting frustrated with getting enought light output. So...does anyone know how I can go about getting a light and ballast (flourescent I guess) like the ones in the projectos... that is ready or close to ready to use. I would like to get the thing going and then I could work out a cheaper light source in the futrue after I have watched some movies.
Good luck on your projects...
Dave
light
Superdave
I don't know how much you are willing to spend but a quick search for MH lights came up with this.
http://store.yahoo.com/elights/40philsupmet.html
I think that 4300k light temp would be accepable. but that 's just me. 🙂
Superdave
I don't know how much you are willing to spend but a quick search for MH lights came up with this.
http://store.yahoo.com/elights/40philsupmet.html
I think that 4300k light temp would be accepable. but that 's just me. 🙂
I finally have some time to get this projector up and running. I want to buy a computer with a hi def vid card to run the whole thing and I am looking for sugestions. I would like to keep it fairly reasonable. Can the computer be done for less than $2000.00? What would be the minimum specs it would need to do a great job.
Thanks
Tom
Thanks
Tom
marklar: thank you. the glass beads link is the greatest thing i have ever seen. do you have any personal experience with them? what sort of coverage can i expect?
fender4: 3500 lumens for 200 watts.... whoa, just whoa. thats totally over the top. how's the contrast?
oftheed: yeah, thats me. you're doing what i'm planning on doing. annoying though, cause i move around a bit, and having to keep rebuilding will be a pain. thinking of maybe just trying to make a nice painted screen with glass beads. less work to move, assuming the glass beads dont fall off.
gunawan: the black lines on the last post i made showed where the light has to focus from and too. the formula is: 1/(focal length) = 1/(destination focus distance) + 1/(source focus distance). again, set focus distance between the lcd and lens, then the lens and screen, as illustrated by the black lines in the image on my last post.
xdreamer: theres a poly-wall sheet that can be had for fairly cheap that supposedly has fairly good screen characteristics. check out avsforum.com's screens section for some really good diy materials and info
second off, as for using a cold mirror reflector with hot mirror between lcd and panel.... you'd probably keep 96% of the heat from getting to the LCD. it should offer some serious protection. but not a cheap setup. also, thankfully, by no means is it required, for anything short of 1000w metal halide systems.
superdave: my "stable" setup is just components from a projector. my experimenting - the stuff that really counts in my book- uses solely ellipsoidal units. i've got about four different reflectors setup. i'm using a 250 w mh that fell into my lap and a 400 w metal halide unit that i bought off ebay.
tom1356: theres a hipix hdtv card thats really really nice. $300 or so. if you dont want hdtv, just get something supported by dscaler. there's a list of compatible cards on their site. i'm a fan of some of the happague cards, personally. and man, you can build the computer for under $1000, if you try hard enough. priority priority priority. if you want a really nice AV grade system though, expect to spend around $1500 to $1600. $2000 will buy you some nice stuff.
Myren
fender4: 3500 lumens for 200 watts.... whoa, just whoa. thats totally over the top. how's the contrast?
oftheed: yeah, thats me. you're doing what i'm planning on doing. annoying though, cause i move around a bit, and having to keep rebuilding will be a pain. thinking of maybe just trying to make a nice painted screen with glass beads. less work to move, assuming the glass beads dont fall off.
gunawan: the black lines on the last post i made showed where the light has to focus from and too. the formula is: 1/(focal length) = 1/(destination focus distance) + 1/(source focus distance). again, set focus distance between the lcd and lens, then the lens and screen, as illustrated by the black lines in the image on my last post.
xdreamer: theres a poly-wall sheet that can be had for fairly cheap that supposedly has fairly good screen characteristics. check out avsforum.com's screens section for some really good diy materials and info
second off, as for using a cold mirror reflector with hot mirror between lcd and panel.... you'd probably keep 96% of the heat from getting to the LCD. it should offer some serious protection. but not a cheap setup. also, thankfully, by no means is it required, for anything short of 1000w metal halide systems.
superdave: my "stable" setup is just components from a projector. my experimenting - the stuff that really counts in my book- uses solely ellipsoidal units. i've got about four different reflectors setup. i'm using a 250 w mh that fell into my lap and a 400 w metal halide unit that i bought off ebay.
tom1356: theres a hipix hdtv card thats really really nice. $300 or so. if you dont want hdtv, just get something supported by dscaler. there's a list of compatible cards on their site. i'm a fan of some of the happague cards, personally. and man, you can build the computer for under $1000, if you try hard enough. priority priority priority. if you want a really nice AV grade system though, expect to spend around $1500 to $1600. $2000 will buy you some nice stuff.
Myren
Tom1536...Myren is right about the $1000 price. Check out this link...
http://www.pricewatch.com
I have been finding dealers from here for years. It is not as GREAT as it used to be but it still has the lowest prices around... I generally don't give out the link to too many people because I dont want it to get too comercialized like those other sites. All you need to do is decide what parts you want and then order them from a few different people. Just find the lowest combination of prices...one person will lose money selling you memory so buy the memory there and some other things they have cheap...then buy the other stuff from someone selling hard drives really cheap. Good luck.
BTW...I have no connection with this pricewatch (I even thought about building my own site to compete with it before). I just thought it would be helpful since people will need to have a computer to run their projector and I have bought a lot of cheap stuff from here over the years.
tech_head...Thanks for the link. That may be an option for me....However, I really want to get something a lot smaller than these MV and MH beasts. The lights in regular projectors are nothing like this are they?...If I cant find what I'm looking for I might just go with the bulb you linked me to...Oh I dont know much about color temp...what do you guys think about it having 4300K color rating...is that bad or is it OK?
Thanks,
Dave
http://www.pricewatch.com
I have been finding dealers from here for years. It is not as GREAT as it used to be but it still has the lowest prices around... I generally don't give out the link to too many people because I dont want it to get too comercialized like those other sites. All you need to do is decide what parts you want and then order them from a few different people. Just find the lowest combination of prices...one person will lose money selling you memory so buy the memory there and some other things they have cheap...then buy the other stuff from someone selling hard drives really cheap. Good luck.
BTW...I have no connection with this pricewatch (I even thought about building my own site to compete with it before). I just thought it would be helpful since people will need to have a computer to run their projector and I have bought a lot of cheap stuff from here over the years.
tech_head...Thanks for the link. That may be an option for me....However, I really want to get something a lot smaller than these MV and MH beasts. The lights in regular projectors are nothing like this are they?...If I cant find what I'm looking for I might just go with the bulb you linked me to...Oh I dont know much about color temp...what do you guys think about it having 4300K color rating...is that bad or is it OK?
Thanks,
Dave
Catching Up
Since you have more time than money, I would suggest you read more of the posts. That said, the only SURE and EASY solution at the present time is to buy an LCD panel off Ebay and and an overhead projector to go with it. Hope this saves you some time.
Enjoy.
Atomos said:
Since you have more time than money, I would suggest you read more of the posts. That said, the only SURE and EASY solution at the present time is to buy an LCD panel off Ebay and and an overhead projector to go with it. Hope this saves you some time.
Enjoy.
Here is a bit more information for people who like to read.
From "The Physics of Liquid Crystals"
http://hackman.mit.edu/6976/LHandouts/6.976.ST01.Lecture11.02.PDF
From "The Physics of Liquid Crystals"
http://hackman.mit.edu/6976/LHandouts/6.976.ST01.Lecture11.02.PDF
light
SuperDave
Have you thought about using a light and balast from an ohp?
Or maybe a replacement bulb for a projector. I have seen them on www.projectorcentral.com for as little as $30.
SuperDave
Have you thought about using a light and balast from an ohp?
Or maybe a replacement bulb for a projector. I have seen them on www.projectorcentral.com for as little as $30.
Off topic:
-------------------
What is the least response time I should look in a LCD pane?
I haven't been able to start my project cause I am still waiting for my LCD to come.
I got my LCD as a bargain ($25): Polaroid Polaview 1800. It is 8.4" 640x480 (can also display SVGA graphics), 2.1 million colors, 40ms response time and 100:1 contrast ratio.
Although the contrast ratio is "low" I figure that most TFT panels have this same ratio. What I am wondering is if the response time is too slow to display smooth video.
Could you guys post your LCD panels specifications? On the other thread specific for people to post it, not many has done so far 🙁
Thanks
PS: Has anyone found a reflective polarizer cheaper than $45? Im going to mess with the polarizer instead of reflector cause from what I read, reflectors are good when the LCD is small and polarizer should work better with bigger panels.
-------------------
What is the least response time I should look in a LCD pane?
I haven't been able to start my project cause I am still waiting for my LCD to come.
I got my LCD as a bargain ($25): Polaroid Polaview 1800. It is 8.4" 640x480 (can also display SVGA graphics), 2.1 million colors, 40ms response time and 100:1 contrast ratio.
Although the contrast ratio is "low" I figure that most TFT panels have this same ratio. What I am wondering is if the response time is too slow to display smooth video.
Could you guys post your LCD panels specifications? On the other thread specific for people to post it, not many has done so far 🙁
Thanks
PS: Has anyone found a reflective polarizer cheaper than $45? Im going to mess with the polarizer instead of reflector cause from what I read, reflectors are good when the LCD is small and polarizer should work better with bigger panels.
The galss beads
Well I decided to buy 3 can of those glass beads i think that will be enough for a 9'X8' screen as soon as i get it made i will take some photos of the reflective screen next to a plain white sheet.
BTW three 25 oz cans for $36 dont seem to bad I hope it is enough :/
Oh yea i cant remember if I told yall that the OHP I got the bulb in it puts out 49000 lumens I saw that and almost fell over I thought it was some other kind of measurement but I called sylvania and they said yep thats lumens. Keep in mind it has a nice parabolic mirror behind it so it uses almost all the light.
Well I decided to buy 3 can of those glass beads i think that will be enough for a 9'X8' screen as soon as i get it made i will take some photos of the reflective screen next to a plain white sheet.
BTW three 25 oz cans for $36 dont seem to bad I hope it is enough :/
Oh yea i cant remember if I told yall that the OHP I got the bulb in it puts out 49000 lumens I saw that and almost fell over I thought it was some other kind of measurement but I called sylvania and they said yep thats lumens. Keep in mind it has a nice parabolic mirror behind it so it uses almost all the light.
tech_head....I have thought of that and that is what I orginally anticipated doing. I was going to rip my OHP apart and use the lamp/ballast. Unfortunately it is not bright enough. I have considered buying a much better one off eBay but they still arent too bright I dont think like 2-4 thousand lumens. Once it goes through the LCD there wont be much left. If I can find one powerful enough I would like to get the assembly and light from it. Anyone have suggestions on a model that is strong enough??
Marklar...did you get your light out of an OHP?? If so...which make and model?? I would love to get something that right with a reflector built in...please please tell me more specifics on it and where I can get one for myself.
Thanks,
Dave
Marklar...did you get your light out of an OHP?? If so...which make and model?? I would love to get something that right with a reflector built in...please please tell me more specifics on it and where I can get one for myself.
Thanks,
Dave
Just saw this on ebay mabey it will help somebody.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2023489435
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2023489435
Superdave,
It is a dukane quantum OHP uses a 575W MH 49,000 lumens 6000K color temp and a life of 750-1000 hours
It is a dukane quantum OHP uses a 575W MH 49,000 lumens 6000K color temp and a life of 750-1000 hours
Solution for the project.
I'm new here, and I probably won't post much (if anything) outside of this message, but I think I have the answers that everyone is looking for on the DIY LCD projector... but I don't think you're going to like them.
When I came across this yesterday, I was really excited and wanted to go out and start buying stuff and build... but I then asked myself a few questions as to why things were as they were, and the answers came to me. Anyway, I'll apologize for the length of the post now... but please, do read it all.
Anyone wonder why such a high lumen light source is having to be used, yet the final product is still dim and slightly darker at the edges?
Anyone remember how LCDs work off of polarized light?
Anyone know why you're using fresnel lenses to focus the light down to begin with?
Here's the problem: The light is not being used efficiently... and the worst part is, it CAN'T be used efficiently on this scale without investing a LOT of money on high grade optical lenses.
The source of your problems is in the LCD display itself. Don't get me wrong, a DIY LCD projector is possible, but it'll likely cost just as much to build a good one as it will be to just buy a used LCD projector.
Here's why: The LCD panels transmit light in only one direction. Advancements have been made in image quality at angles, but on a whole, the light is still only flowing in one direction through the panel, and only one direction.
To improve light efficiency, you have to focus the light down to a point where the projection lens is. That's why you place a fresnel lens behind the transparent medium you're projecting... it's cheap, it doesn't have to be an optical grade lens, and it's effective... but it immediately twists almost all of your backlight into a direction that can't pass through the LCD panel due to the polarizing filters. There's where a majority of your 90% of light loss is occuring. The rest of the light loss is from the fact that what light does pass through the LCD panel is now going straight and no longer being focused down to the lens. The projection lens has nothing left to work with outside of mostly ambient light. That's why your final image is so dim.
With the most efficient method of lighting, you should be able to get away with just around 3-4000 lumens... but it requires having the lens that focuses down the light right AFTER the LCD panel which means it has to be big, optical grade, and precise to avoid distortion if you use a large LCD panel.
This poses a problem. Large optics are expensive and heavy. Anyone who's looked through an Edmund Scientific catalogue can attest to that... so if you use the LCD as passthrough, the only cheap way to do so is to have a small panel so you can use smaller optics... the smaller the panel, the cheaper the optics... but inversely so, the smaller the panel, the more expensive the LCD display.
From an optical cost effective standpoint for the DIYer, you'd need an LCD screen not much larger than 2" on diagonal. But even the low res ones are expensive.
From an LCD cost effective standpoint for the DIYer, you'd wind up buying LCD screens with at smallest, a .20 dot pitch... giving you 5" NTSC or PAL resolution screens, ~10-12" SVGA and ~15" XGA resolution screens.
Either method costs a lot of money to do properly. You can brute force your way around the limitations, leave out certain steps and get a lot of projects using a pass through the LCD screen method that weigh in under $750, but you wind up with other problems that occur like rediculously bright lamps for mediocre output, heat issues from the rediculously bright lamps, size of the final projector and overall image quality for the money spent.
Another route to investigate would be using a reflective projector that you'd sit down on top of a reflective LCD screen, but again, you run into serious heat issues due to the enormously high light intensity needed.... it's six one way, half a dozen the other. Either cheap route will cost you in something, and most likely won't get much better quality than a well built 100" TV project you'd get the plans from off of Ebay.
I applaud the work and efforts put in by all of you... and if you had limited success, congratulations. I think it'd just be cheaper and easier to just go drop a couple grand on an LCD projector instead until postage sized full color XGA LCD displays only cost about $100... well, at least that's just my opinion. Best of luck to you all. 🙂
I'm new here, and I probably won't post much (if anything) outside of this message, but I think I have the answers that everyone is looking for on the DIY LCD projector... but I don't think you're going to like them.
When I came across this yesterday, I was really excited and wanted to go out and start buying stuff and build... but I then asked myself a few questions as to why things were as they were, and the answers came to me. Anyway, I'll apologize for the length of the post now... but please, do read it all.
Anyone wonder why such a high lumen light source is having to be used, yet the final product is still dim and slightly darker at the edges?
Anyone remember how LCDs work off of polarized light?
Anyone know why you're using fresnel lenses to focus the light down to begin with?
Here's the problem: The light is not being used efficiently... and the worst part is, it CAN'T be used efficiently on this scale without investing a LOT of money on high grade optical lenses.
The source of your problems is in the LCD display itself. Don't get me wrong, a DIY LCD projector is possible, but it'll likely cost just as much to build a good one as it will be to just buy a used LCD projector.
Here's why: The LCD panels transmit light in only one direction. Advancements have been made in image quality at angles, but on a whole, the light is still only flowing in one direction through the panel, and only one direction.
To improve light efficiency, you have to focus the light down to a point where the projection lens is. That's why you place a fresnel lens behind the transparent medium you're projecting... it's cheap, it doesn't have to be an optical grade lens, and it's effective... but it immediately twists almost all of your backlight into a direction that can't pass through the LCD panel due to the polarizing filters. There's where a majority of your 90% of light loss is occuring. The rest of the light loss is from the fact that what light does pass through the LCD panel is now going straight and no longer being focused down to the lens. The projection lens has nothing left to work with outside of mostly ambient light. That's why your final image is so dim.
With the most efficient method of lighting, you should be able to get away with just around 3-4000 lumens... but it requires having the lens that focuses down the light right AFTER the LCD panel which means it has to be big, optical grade, and precise to avoid distortion if you use a large LCD panel.
This poses a problem. Large optics are expensive and heavy. Anyone who's looked through an Edmund Scientific catalogue can attest to that... so if you use the LCD as passthrough, the only cheap way to do so is to have a small panel so you can use smaller optics... the smaller the panel, the cheaper the optics... but inversely so, the smaller the panel, the more expensive the LCD display.
From an optical cost effective standpoint for the DIYer, you'd need an LCD screen not much larger than 2" on diagonal. But even the low res ones are expensive.
From an LCD cost effective standpoint for the DIYer, you'd wind up buying LCD screens with at smallest, a .20 dot pitch... giving you 5" NTSC or PAL resolution screens, ~10-12" SVGA and ~15" XGA resolution screens.
Either method costs a lot of money to do properly. You can brute force your way around the limitations, leave out certain steps and get a lot of projects using a pass through the LCD screen method that weigh in under $750, but you wind up with other problems that occur like rediculously bright lamps for mediocre output, heat issues from the rediculously bright lamps, size of the final projector and overall image quality for the money spent.
Another route to investigate would be using a reflective projector that you'd sit down on top of a reflective LCD screen, but again, you run into serious heat issues due to the enormously high light intensity needed.... it's six one way, half a dozen the other. Either cheap route will cost you in something, and most likely won't get much better quality than a well built 100" TV project you'd get the plans from off of Ebay.
I applaud the work and efforts put in by all of you... and if you had limited success, congratulations. I think it'd just be cheaper and easier to just go drop a couple grand on an LCD projector instead until postage sized full color XGA LCD displays only cost about $100... well, at least that's just my opinion. Best of luck to you all. 🙂
Sorry for posting so much..
BUT HOLY SHEEP **** http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2023165965 Very impresive reflector is this what we are lookin for? Looks kinda big but seems it might work
BUT HOLY SHEEP **** http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2023165965 Very impresive reflector is this what we are lookin for? Looks kinda big but seems it might work
Darth Willis:
What are you, a corporate spy from Epson or Sony's projector divisions? 🙂 Sure, some of us are taking more complicated routes to building our projectors, but the fact remains that it can, has, and will be done, and for a lot less than the 750 you have stated. In the simplest incarnation, drop a projector panel on an overhead. VGA-$<100 SVGA- $<200 XGA-$<350. I choose to build the case myself, for flexibility. I was watching my 14 foot picture last night, and loving it. My total projector cost: about $90. And yes, I will be adding quarter wave retarders and reflective polarizers to my setup: ~$70. My optics are high grade as well. I just got them at auction for a steal of a price ($10). The way i see it, if i spend less than the price of a 32" TV (450), I am getting one heck of a deal. I started thinking about this when i decided my 27" TV was way too small for my new living room. With projection tv's in the thousands, i decided to wait before i bought. Thank god i did, I almost went to rent-a-center to rent a 60" rpj when i found my first info on DIY projectors. In my mind the time is unimportant, the money is better spent, the movie expierience much more enjoyable and realistic, not to mention I have aquired a lot of scientific knowledge i would not have otherwise. Some guys restore 74 Camaros, some build projectors. To each his own, they say.
What are you, a corporate spy from Epson or Sony's projector divisions? 🙂 Sure, some of us are taking more complicated routes to building our projectors, but the fact remains that it can, has, and will be done, and for a lot less than the 750 you have stated. In the simplest incarnation, drop a projector panel on an overhead. VGA-$<100 SVGA- $<200 XGA-$<350. I choose to build the case myself, for flexibility. I was watching my 14 foot picture last night, and loving it. My total projector cost: about $90. And yes, I will be adding quarter wave retarders and reflective polarizers to my setup: ~$70. My optics are high grade as well. I just got them at auction for a steal of a price ($10). The way i see it, if i spend less than the price of a 32" TV (450), I am getting one heck of a deal. I started thinking about this when i decided my 27" TV was way too small for my new living room. With projection tv's in the thousands, i decided to wait before i bought. Thank god i did, I almost went to rent-a-center to rent a 60" rpj when i found my first info on DIY projectors. In my mind the time is unimportant, the money is better spent, the movie expierience much more enjoyable and realistic, not to mention I have aquired a lot of scientific knowledge i would not have otherwise. Some guys restore 74 Camaros, some build projectors. To each his own, they say.
Myren-
Thanks for the help. Any idea what I would need to do high definition?
Do I have to put it together myself or does someone sell a specialized PC?
Thanks for the help. Any idea what I would need to do high definition?
Do I have to put it together myself or does someone sell a specialized PC?
oftheend said:
Nope... just a realist. 😛
Oftheend, I'm curious to know what you did exactly... what hardware you used, projector, LCD screen, optics and light source... not to mention image quality and how dark you have to have your room to use it at 14'... as well as total cost, hours spent working on it, cost to run, etc.
I'm an image quality freak... I do graphic design and video editing, so if I'm to do a project like this I want it to work right and look good without having to reinvent the wheel.
I never said it couldn't be done, but honestly, is the end result really good enough to bother trying? Yeah, it may look great as a $200 projector, but how does it faire as an (insert format style) projector? For cost to assemble, use, maintain, replace and reproduce? And honestly, if you didn't get extremely lucky on bargain stuff and had to pay retail like regular shmoes reproducing it (because let's face it, if a good working one could actually be done for that little, all the cheap sources for the used parts will disappear... remember the i-opener?) how much would it actually cost? Besides, if it's actually this cheap and easy to do, why hasn't it been done, mass produced and put on the market already?
I think it's cool that you're trying and you're happy with your work. It's nice to take pride in the hard work you do yourself... that's why I assemble and service PCs in my spare time. Just remeber, nobody likes what you make more than yourself.
</rant>
If you've actually been this sucessful, please prove it to me. I would love nothing more than to eat my words and my hat... and have a beautiful XGA projector for under $500. 😀
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