oh, yeah, misread your post on the monitors bitch.
dwalls is totally right, just add a pci video card. i'm running four video cards in my system, one AGP geforce one and three PCI matrox millenium II's.
the matrox milleniums arent fast enough to stream video fullscreen, i'd suggest a PCI LeadTek geforce MX something or other. go for the leadteks, supposedly they have better image quality (better filtering circuitry) than everything else. but the matrox's can be grabbed cheap if your never planning on running a movie on your other monitors agian and their 2d image quality is ****ing awsome. if you've got a really high res monitor though, they wont have enough bandwidth to output to it.
ayup.
dwalls is totally right, just add a pci video card. i'm running four video cards in my system, one AGP geforce one and three PCI matrox millenium II's.
the matrox milleniums arent fast enough to stream video fullscreen, i'd suggest a PCI LeadTek geforce MX something or other. go for the leadteks, supposedly they have better image quality (better filtering circuitry) than everything else. but the matrox's can be grabbed cheap if your never planning on running a movie on your other monitors agian and their 2d image quality is ****ing awsome. if you've got a really high res monitor though, they wont have enough bandwidth to output to it.
ayup.
if you want to show the same thing on both screens, i think you need to get a single video card that can output to two monitors. they're readily avaiable, matrox makes a really good one for $150, and i think theres a PCI version available. its also capable of displaying different things things to different monitors too.
@Myren. What shape is your reflector? I've been playing with some math and it seems that with most of our lense setups, an elliptical shaped reflector would concentrate the light best although I haven't tried the shape yet. My main concern is that an elliptical shape would focus more light through just the center of the LCD than a parabola, causing a more hot spotted image.
What material is your custom built reflector made out of? Is much better than the aluminum foil i've been using?
What material is your custom built reflector made out of? Is much better than the aluminum foil i've been using?
Hmm.. I'm not too thrilled about buying extra display-card. And I don't need to have them at the same time, so why does not modifying this "KVM" switch work? Change the output connector to an input connector and the two input connectors to output connectors and it's ready?
Okay, I have even better idea: Without having to modify the switch, just buy three "convertors" that change the "sex" of the connector and there you go. ? I checked already that there are these convertors and don't cost anything.
I did even some more research. There are several solutions for this at the "local computer store", cheapest one being Y-cable for two monitors. I'm sorry I'm going on about this but I'm quite sure that there will be others facing the same problem too. It's not too nice to get to the back of the computer to switch the cable everytime when you want to use the monitor or the projector.
ellipsoidal is definately the best. it focuses the light where we want, with stunning uniformity too.
getting the right uniformnity is a function of how you form the parabola. i'm still working on this, i'm actually trying to build a piece of software that'll optimize it all for me.
as for actual construction, i'm mainly investigating ways to do it on a repeat scale. i'm looking at finding a way to cast the thing, either that or to stamp press four pieces which can be joined to form the main reflector. the only other option is making a steel mold and electroforming a nickle plating over it, which can then be removed and used as a base for which to line a shinier more reflective metal, which would then have some sort of reflectivity compound further rubbed on. dunno what the final solutions gonna be yet.
all these are pretty complicated solutions, but i think ultimatley it'll be worth while.
still gotta work out the math to insure the best light uniformity. you have to adjust the ellipsoidal shape appropriately to get the best uniformity, its going to take some effort.
bitch: wow, no such clue those things existed. i'm helping my friends build their own systems - friends who incidentally dont really want to have to get a new video card. so, ah, you have both my and especially their thanks. woot. 😎
myren
myren
getting the right uniformnity is a function of how you form the parabola. i'm still working on this, i'm actually trying to build a piece of software that'll optimize it all for me.
as for actual construction, i'm mainly investigating ways to do it on a repeat scale. i'm looking at finding a way to cast the thing, either that or to stamp press four pieces which can be joined to form the main reflector. the only other option is making a steel mold and electroforming a nickle plating over it, which can then be removed and used as a base for which to line a shinier more reflective metal, which would then have some sort of reflectivity compound further rubbed on. dunno what the final solutions gonna be yet.
all these are pretty complicated solutions, but i think ultimatley it'll be worth while.
still gotta work out the math to insure the best light uniformity. you have to adjust the ellipsoidal shape appropriately to get the best uniformity, its going to take some effort.
bitch: wow, no such clue those things existed. i'm helping my friends build their own systems - friends who incidentally dont really want to have to get a new video card. so, ah, you have both my and especially their thanks. woot. 😎
myren
myren
Ah, I cant think of anything, it's late -
The Xung; what kind of 15" LCD panel are you using, that you cant get enough light through? Is it 300:1 contrast? (another concept I have no practical idea of how it matters beyond a certain point)
I went ahead and ordered the 7K lumen OHP at $150, then found another for $75. Maybe that one's good for just the bulb! I figure these ought to be bright enough...
If some sort of "deinterlacing" is needed to fix the problem I documented last night, I wish someone would come out and spell it out for me, rather than just let me wander around in the dark!
So the "venetian blind" effect has nothing to do with pixel speed, instead, that the video needs to be deinterlaced inbetween the source programme and the panel?
Axeman; How are you going to fix your panel? What happened - did it just "go out" as you were projecting through it? Where's the pictures of it apart? Do these pics show the difficulty getting the one PCB out of the way? I'm an EE; I'd give the repair a shot if you'd like, or, if you're just going to junk it. Write me at joejas@ihpc.net, if you're interested.
I tried rear projecting against a white cloth shower curtain tonight, using the 640X480 infocus panel. Dont laugh - it looked pretty decent! However, I had to angle back the top of the screen and drop the projector down, then angle up the mirror on top to get a square image. Why? because a direct shot has the projector beam source right in the center. How do they do rear projection - and not have this car headlight blasting at you - in the middle of the projected image?
Also, I noticed that the VCR tape I was using as input seemed to give somewhat less of the 'ol venetian blind effect, than did the broadcast programme I was watching last night. If my eyes werent just tricking me, I have no idea why this woud be...If anyone can enlighten me, it'd be much appreciated!
Myren, if you're going to build these professionally, you might not want to share all of it here. You may want to consult a patent attorney, I'm sure you can file for things like "novel light source reflector design for LCD projection systems". Especially is it incorporates some sort of embedded servo control to precisely position the mirrors.
The Xung; what kind of 15" LCD panel are you using, that you cant get enough light through? Is it 300:1 contrast? (another concept I have no practical idea of how it matters beyond a certain point)
I went ahead and ordered the 7K lumen OHP at $150, then found another for $75. Maybe that one's good for just the bulb! I figure these ought to be bright enough...
If some sort of "deinterlacing" is needed to fix the problem I documented last night, I wish someone would come out and spell it out for me, rather than just let me wander around in the dark!
So the "venetian blind" effect has nothing to do with pixel speed, instead, that the video needs to be deinterlaced inbetween the source programme and the panel?
Axeman; How are you going to fix your panel? What happened - did it just "go out" as you were projecting through it? Where's the pictures of it apart? Do these pics show the difficulty getting the one PCB out of the way? I'm an EE; I'd give the repair a shot if you'd like, or, if you're just going to junk it. Write me at joejas@ihpc.net, if you're interested.
I tried rear projecting against a white cloth shower curtain tonight, using the 640X480 infocus panel. Dont laugh - it looked pretty decent! However, I had to angle back the top of the screen and drop the projector down, then angle up the mirror on top to get a square image. Why? because a direct shot has the projector beam source right in the center. How do they do rear projection - and not have this car headlight blasting at you - in the middle of the projected image?
Also, I noticed that the VCR tape I was using as input seemed to give somewhat less of the 'ol venetian blind effect, than did the broadcast programme I was watching last night. If my eyes werent just tricking me, I have no idea why this woud be...If anyone can enlighten me, it'd be much appreciated!
Myren, if you're going to build these professionally, you might not want to share all of it here. You may want to consult a patent attorney, I'm sure you can file for things like "novel light source reflector design for LCD projection systems". Especially is it incorporates some sort of embedded servo control to precisely position the mirrors.
@ jjasniew: The reason why a VCR source doesn't have as bad of a venetian blind effect is because it's only 320x240 versus the 640x480 of TV so, when it was recorded, only every other line was recorded, thus a deinterlacing effect. Take a look at this thing http://www.omegamultimedia.com/products/tv_one/cheesebox.htm though a little expensive, it might help with your interlacing effects (for some reason I have this feeling that it would be possible to find schematics of it online somewhere).
The 15 inch LCD I have is the Envision one that was on sale during presidents day at Staples with a $100 coupon and $70 rebate. It has 250:1 contrast but I think these contrast specs vary from manufacturer to manufacturer as this monitor has pretty sharp contrast.
I know I bought a metal halide bulb and I know metal halides are suppose to be more energy efficient than any other white light source so I don't know why a 175 W metal halide is not as bright as a 65 W LOA, or maybe it is. I know Myren's been using 400+ W bulbs for his LCD but I didn't want to deal with all the heat.
Everyone else who's been using a LOA or a standard projector, have you been using an LCD projection panel or monitor? and what's the contrast spec?
I suspect my problems are coming from a combination of not a bright enough bulb for such a large LCD, a higher contrast LCD than everyone whose used a LOA, and having too high goals for output size. Perhaps I need a screen instead of just a whitewash wall.
What can I get that is more reflective than aluminum foil?
The 15 inch LCD I have is the Envision one that was on sale during presidents day at Staples with a $100 coupon and $70 rebate. It has 250:1 contrast but I think these contrast specs vary from manufacturer to manufacturer as this monitor has pretty sharp contrast.
I know I bought a metal halide bulb and I know metal halides are suppose to be more energy efficient than any other white light source so I don't know why a 175 W metal halide is not as bright as a 65 W LOA, or maybe it is. I know Myren's been using 400+ W bulbs for his LCD but I didn't want to deal with all the heat.
Everyone else who's been using a LOA or a standard projector, have you been using an LCD projection panel or monitor? and what's the contrast spec?
I suspect my problems are coming from a combination of not a bright enough bulb for such a large LCD, a higher contrast LCD than everyone whose used a LOA, and having too high goals for output size. Perhaps I need a screen instead of just a whitewash wall.
What can I get that is more reflective than aluminum foil?
The Xung,
I'm looking and learning. I see I gotta spend another $100 - $400 for a box that deinterlaces my composite or s-video. I see I can use my PC for that job as well, as long as I have a video input card (of certain types) and the free software of Myron's pointer.
Or, I can get the VB50HRTV from viewsonic...
Some folks made a screen out of plas-tex waterproof wall panel 0.0X4X8, cut 11" off the 8' side. Get at Lowes or Home Depot. From AVS forum...
I'm using a projection panel, 100:1 contrast ratio. I'm putting 4000 lumens through it, via a dukane 4003 ohp. I'm going to try 7000 lumens shortly...Hope it just doesnt wash-out completely, for my $150.
I'm looking and learning. I see I gotta spend another $100 - $400 for a box that deinterlaces my composite or s-video. I see I can use my PC for that job as well, as long as I have a video input card (of certain types) and the free software of Myron's pointer.
Or, I can get the VB50HRTV from viewsonic...
Some folks made a screen out of plas-tex waterproof wall panel 0.0X4X8, cut 11" off the 8' side. Get at Lowes or Home Depot. From AVS forum...
I'm using a projection panel, 100:1 contrast ratio. I'm putting 4000 lumens through it, via a dukane 4003 ohp. I'm going to try 7000 lumens shortly...Hope it just doesnt wash-out completely, for my $150.
Hi guys,
jjasniew-
I ran into an interlacing problem similar to yours with my ATI Tv-tuner. ALL movement split up into horizontal lines. Updating the software solved the problem. You shouldn't be worrying too much about response time- I watched a few DVDs on the KDS and It looked _better_ than a CRT monitor. If you decide to get a VGA panel, then getting a $75 TV tuner would give you really good TV quality- including line doubling/de-interlacing.
Axeman; How are you going to fix your panel? What happened - did it just "go out" as you were projecting through it? Where's the pictures of it apart? Do these pics show the difficulty getting the one PCB out of the way? I'm an EE; I'd give the repair a shot if you'd like, or, if you're just going to junk it. Write me at joejas@ihpc.net, if you're interested.
It's funny, when you're really tired, it's hard to remember. 🙂 I was projecting through it, but the panel was like 3/4 off the OHP, so I went to move it, and the image quit. I wasn't too disturbed by that, so I probably figured that it was just the infamous ribbon cable coming off. And it hasn't worked since, despite trying to hold in the cable, and various other tricks. The conductive coating on the other cable wasn't midly conductive- it set off a beep tester. 🙁
I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the panel. Chances are I will **** around with it in a pathetic sobbing attempt to get it to show an image, and then pack it up in the case again. Why? Because KDS has a really good return policy, upon which they will send you out a new monitor, and then you use their postage-paid box to send the faulty one back. If I'm really lucky, I can then return the replacement to the wholesaler's for a refund. (Money towards a viewsonic- MAN, I wish I could take a look inside one of those.. Or a samsung, which I can get cheaply). If the return thing doesn't work out, I'll let you know.
I'll upload the pics to my site tonight(I hope I have enough space..hmmmm), and I'll take some more showing the actual problems.
It's hard to stay motivated after a failure such as this- but I'm determined to never use my 13" TV again, and dammit, I'll do what it takes. 🙂
Any sources for viewsonics?
PHil
jjasniew-
I ran into an interlacing problem similar to yours with my ATI Tv-tuner. ALL movement split up into horizontal lines. Updating the software solved the problem. You shouldn't be worrying too much about response time- I watched a few DVDs on the KDS and It looked _better_ than a CRT monitor. If you decide to get a VGA panel, then getting a $75 TV tuner would give you really good TV quality- including line doubling/de-interlacing.
Axeman; How are you going to fix your panel? What happened - did it just "go out" as you were projecting through it? Where's the pictures of it apart? Do these pics show the difficulty getting the one PCB out of the way? I'm an EE; I'd give the repair a shot if you'd like, or, if you're just going to junk it. Write me at joejas@ihpc.net, if you're interested.
It's funny, when you're really tired, it's hard to remember. 🙂 I was projecting through it, but the panel was like 3/4 off the OHP, so I went to move it, and the image quit. I wasn't too disturbed by that, so I probably figured that it was just the infamous ribbon cable coming off. And it hasn't worked since, despite trying to hold in the cable, and various other tricks. The conductive coating on the other cable wasn't midly conductive- it set off a beep tester. 🙁
I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the panel. Chances are I will **** around with it in a pathetic sobbing attempt to get it to show an image, and then pack it up in the case again. Why? Because KDS has a really good return policy, upon which they will send you out a new monitor, and then you use their postage-paid box to send the faulty one back. If I'm really lucky, I can then return the replacement to the wholesaler's for a refund. (Money towards a viewsonic- MAN, I wish I could take a look inside one of those.. Or a samsung, which I can get cheaply). If the return thing doesn't work out, I'll let you know.
I'll upload the pics to my site tonight(I hope I have enough space..hmmmm), and I'll take some more showing the actual problems.
It's hard to stay motivated after a failure such as this- but I'm determined to never use my 13" TV again, and dammit, I'll do what it takes. 🙂
Any sources for viewsonics?
PHil
Reflective Surface
I've been reading along here and other places for a while now. I'm very interested in building a projector. I obtain a OHP LCD panel about 2 years ago, with no real use for it. I didn't know if it was worth buying an OHP, but I suspected I could build my own projection system of some sort. This forum has helped me focus my ideas alot. I will be sharing. I'm currently searching for LOA worklights. I can't find any locally.
I can probably get my hands on a lot more old OHP projection panels for almost nothing (which is what I got mine for).
I was actually responding to a need for a more reflective surface than aluminum foil. While I was searching for a light source at the local Walmart I ran across rear view mirror repair sheets. These are reflective sheets that are made to cover broken mirrors. They are self-adhesive. I don't know how helpfull they would be for our purpose.
Here is a little background. I don't know how useful my knowledge base will be here, but I'm happy to help if I can. I'm currently a computer tech. Have a degree in Math, almost a degree in Comp. Engineering. I started out as EE. Have to find my old optics books. Even though it appears you guys have the optics about pegged.
I've been reading along here and other places for a while now. I'm very interested in building a projector. I obtain a OHP LCD panel about 2 years ago, with no real use for it. I didn't know if it was worth buying an OHP, but I suspected I could build my own projection system of some sort. This forum has helped me focus my ideas alot. I will be sharing. I'm currently searching for LOA worklights. I can't find any locally.
I can probably get my hands on a lot more old OHP projection panels for almost nothing (which is what I got mine for).
I was actually responding to a need for a more reflective surface than aluminum foil. While I was searching for a light source at the local Walmart I ran across rear view mirror repair sheets. These are reflective sheets that are made to cover broken mirrors. They are self-adhesive. I don't know how helpfull they would be for our purpose.
Here is a little background. I don't know how useful my knowledge base will be here, but I'm happy to help if I can. I'm currently a computer tech. Have a degree in Math, almost a degree in Comp. Engineering. I started out as EE. Have to find my old optics books. Even though it appears you guys have the optics about pegged.
Pictures Galore!
😀
Here are the pictures of the LCD slaughterhouse!
http://www.chebucto.ns.ca/~ai512/DIY/
Phil
😀
Here are the pictures of the LCD slaughterhouse!
http://www.chebucto.ns.ca/~ai512/DIY/
Phil
"xenon" bulbs
fender4:
I did find out some more about those cheap "HID" headlight bulbs, and that web link you posted confirms it: They aren't anything to do with HID at all, just an ordinary filament globe with tinting in the glass to make 'em look HID... 🙁
What a jib. Less output for the same wattage.
On another note, I got given some freebies on the weekend: an old movie projector, an old slide projector and a screen for it. The slide projector actually used a massive in size and consumption 500W globe (that still worked), but it seems to be dimmer than my current 250W EHJ globe... The 8mm projector used a 1kW globe, actually tripped a breaker when I tried it...
The real score was the screen, turns out it is a glass coated screen (small, I think about 50") like the modern expensive high gain screens you can buy. Although the picture on it was small, the contrast ratio was great, especially if you are sitting near the axis of the projection. Big difference in brightness as well. It was great to try out this sort of screen, but I don't know if I would want it in the final setup, because the viewing angle really is a bit limited.
fender4:
I did find out some more about those cheap "HID" headlight bulbs, and that web link you posted confirms it: They aren't anything to do with HID at all, just an ordinary filament globe with tinting in the glass to make 'em look HID... 🙁
What a jib. Less output for the same wattage.
On another note, I got given some freebies on the weekend: an old movie projector, an old slide projector and a screen for it. The slide projector actually used a massive in size and consumption 500W globe (that still worked), but it seems to be dimmer than my current 250W EHJ globe... The 8mm projector used a 1kW globe, actually tripped a breaker when I tried it...
The real score was the screen, turns out it is a glass coated screen (small, I think about 50") like the modern expensive high gain screens you can buy. Although the picture on it was small, the contrast ratio was great, especially if you are sitting near the axis of the projection. Big difference in brightness as well. It was great to try out this sort of screen, but I don't know if I would want it in the final setup, because the viewing angle really is a bit limited.
Thanks, Muzzman. I was afraid of that, considering that real HID systems cost at least 10X as much.
jjasniew,
Thanks for the extremetech link! That was very informative. I wish I could get my hands on some of those <1" high-rez LCD's. Cheap DLP's would be nice, too.
My LCD (5.6" NTSC panel) comes in on Tuesday...I can't wait to get going on this thing. I will post any progress I make here and on my website...with pics!
Goodluck to everybody taking the high-resolution LCD monitor approach. There's a lot of potential there. Sorry to hear about your loss, Axeman. Hopefully that can be fixed.
-f4
jjasniew,
Thanks for the extremetech link! That was very informative. I wish I could get my hands on some of those <1" high-rez LCD's. Cheap DLP's would be nice, too.
My LCD (5.6" NTSC panel) comes in on Tuesday...I can't wait to get going on this thing. I will post any progress I make here and on my website...with pics!
Goodluck to everybody taking the high-resolution LCD monitor approach. There's a lot of potential there. Sorry to hear about your loss, Axeman. Hopefully that can be fixed.
-f4
Has anyone tried the Viewsonic VB50HRTV?
It's about $100 - What do you think as a deinterlacing engine? :')
High-resolution TV on LCD or CRT display
You can now enjoy high-resolution 1024 x 768 TV at full screen in full 24-bit color. Simply connect the VB50HRTV module to the antenna or cable feed.
Full-screen video entertainment
Simply connect a DVD, VCR, video game console or digital camera to the VB50HRTV and enjoy favorite movies or pictures in high resolution. The VB50HRTV provides S-Video, composite (RCA) video connectors, audio pass-through and associated cables.
Easy connection and control
The VB50HRTV module is a Plug-and-Play table-top configuration requiring no software drivers or internal computer installation.
Convenient remote control
A 28-key remote control is supplied for your convenience. Easily switch from TV to computer as well as all other input sources. In addition, users can control contrast, brightness, color and hue from the remote control and on-screen menu.
RGB computer pass-through
watch TV or enjoy your DVD movie without turning on your computer.
Auto tuning
Auto tuning of TV broadcast and cable TV channels.
Excellent compatibility
Compatible with CRT, LCD, plasma and projection displays.
Sleep timer
Built-in sleep timer automatically shuts off display at pre-determined times.
SAP/MTS Stereo
Allows the reception of audio other than main programming audio.
Overview | Features | Specs
ANTENNA/CABLE (RF) Tuner FI1236MK2 (North America)
Freq Range 55.25 - 801.25 MHz
Numbers of Channels 2-69 off air
2-125 NTSC cable
INPUT SIGNAL Type RF, S-Video, Composite (RCA), RGB Pass-Through 3.5 mm Mini Stereo Audio In, and RCA (Left/Right) Audio In
VIDEO OUTPUT Bit Performance 24-Bit RGB 700mV±10% (Excluding RGB Pass-Through)
OUTPUT MODE
(excluding RGB Pass-Through) Resolution Refresh Rate 640 x 480 @ 60Hz
640 x 480 @ 75Hz 800 x 600 @ 60Hz 800 x 600 @ 75Hz 852 x 480 @ 60Hz 1024 x 768 @ 60Hz/75sHz
AUDIO OUTPUT MTS Mono/Stereo/SAP (Available in RF Mode)
POWER Power Adapter Input 120 Vac, 60Hz
Output 12 VDC, 1.2A
Type Power Adapter
CONNECTOR Signal F connector for RF, 3.5mm Mini Stereo Jack for Audio In and audio Out. RCA left/right for Audio In, S-Video, Composite (RCA), 15-pin Mini D-Sub for RGB Input and RGB Output
Power DC-In Jack
CONTROLS Physical Power, Input, Channel +/- and Volume +/-
OSD Contrast, Brightness, Saturation, Sharpness, Hue, Volume, MTS, Treble, Bass, OSD Position, OSD Language, Mode (Normal and Sports), Resolution, Refresh Rate, Input Signal, Sleep, Autoscan, Channel Add/Remove, Channel Label and Reset, Tuner Input
Remote Control 28-Key IR remote control, Power, Volume =/-, Channel +/-, four navigation arrows, Select, Menu, Exit, MTS, Mute, Input, Res, Scan, Recall and 10 numbered keys
ENVIRONMENTAL SPECIFICATIONS Operational Temperature 0-40°C (32-104°F)
Humidity 5-95%, Non-Condensing
Altitude -150-12,000 feet above sea level
REGULATIONS UL, cUL, FCC Class B
ACCESSORIES Included Power Adapter, VGA Extension Cable, 3.5mm Mini Stereo Cable, A/V Cable, User's Guide, Remote and two AAA batteries.
It's about $100 - What do you think as a deinterlacing engine? :')
High-resolution TV on LCD or CRT display
You can now enjoy high-resolution 1024 x 768 TV at full screen in full 24-bit color. Simply connect the VB50HRTV module to the antenna or cable feed.
Full-screen video entertainment
Simply connect a DVD, VCR, video game console or digital camera to the VB50HRTV and enjoy favorite movies or pictures in high resolution. The VB50HRTV provides S-Video, composite (RCA) video connectors, audio pass-through and associated cables.
Easy connection and control
The VB50HRTV module is a Plug-and-Play table-top configuration requiring no software drivers or internal computer installation.
Convenient remote control
A 28-key remote control is supplied for your convenience. Easily switch from TV to computer as well as all other input sources. In addition, users can control contrast, brightness, color and hue from the remote control and on-screen menu.
RGB computer pass-through
watch TV or enjoy your DVD movie without turning on your computer.
Auto tuning
Auto tuning of TV broadcast and cable TV channels.
Excellent compatibility
Compatible with CRT, LCD, plasma and projection displays.
Sleep timer
Built-in sleep timer automatically shuts off display at pre-determined times.
SAP/MTS Stereo
Allows the reception of audio other than main programming audio.
Overview | Features | Specs
ANTENNA/CABLE (RF) Tuner FI1236MK2 (North America)
Freq Range 55.25 - 801.25 MHz
Numbers of Channels 2-69 off air
2-125 NTSC cable
INPUT SIGNAL Type RF, S-Video, Composite (RCA), RGB Pass-Through 3.5 mm Mini Stereo Audio In, and RCA (Left/Right) Audio In
VIDEO OUTPUT Bit Performance 24-Bit RGB 700mV±10% (Excluding RGB Pass-Through)
OUTPUT MODE
(excluding RGB Pass-Through) Resolution Refresh Rate 640 x 480 @ 60Hz
640 x 480 @ 75Hz 800 x 600 @ 60Hz 800 x 600 @ 75Hz 852 x 480 @ 60Hz 1024 x 768 @ 60Hz/75sHz
AUDIO OUTPUT MTS Mono/Stereo/SAP (Available in RF Mode)
POWER Power Adapter Input 120 Vac, 60Hz
Output 12 VDC, 1.2A
Type Power Adapter
CONNECTOR Signal F connector for RF, 3.5mm Mini Stereo Jack for Audio In and audio Out. RCA left/right for Audio In, S-Video, Composite (RCA), 15-pin Mini D-Sub for RGB Input and RGB Output
Power DC-In Jack
CONTROLS Physical Power, Input, Channel +/- and Volume +/-
OSD Contrast, Brightness, Saturation, Sharpness, Hue, Volume, MTS, Treble, Bass, OSD Position, OSD Language, Mode (Normal and Sports), Resolution, Refresh Rate, Input Signal, Sleep, Autoscan, Channel Add/Remove, Channel Label and Reset, Tuner Input
Remote Control 28-Key IR remote control, Power, Volume =/-, Channel +/-, four navigation arrows, Select, Menu, Exit, MTS, Mute, Input, Res, Scan, Recall and 10 numbered keys
ENVIRONMENTAL SPECIFICATIONS Operational Temperature 0-40°C (32-104°F)
Humidity 5-95%, Non-Condensing
Altitude -150-12,000 feet above sea level
REGULATIONS UL, cUL, FCC Class B
ACCESSORIES Included Power Adapter, VGA Extension Cable, 3.5mm Mini Stereo Cable, A/V Cable, User's Guide, Remote and two AAA batteries.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/
Y'all should check out this forum. Seems to have a lot of knowledgable people on board.
And, like the Vinyl vs CD camps in audio, there's the CRT vs LCD camps. A quick read and you can almost hear the CRT guys chuckling at the LCD guys, when it comes down to the bottom line; picture quality.
Maybe the idea of using a very bright, large area CRT as the basis for a projector has some significant merit, if you can trade brightness for...other aspects of the image.
Kinda like sacrificing maximum SPL, for some of the other desirable qualities of stereo sound reproduction.
One guy mentioned that CRT based projectors have a 5K hours lifetime, vs whatever a good bulb does (70? 700?)
Anyway...
Y'all should check out this forum. Seems to have a lot of knowledgable people on board.
And, like the Vinyl vs CD camps in audio, there's the CRT vs LCD camps. A quick read and you can almost hear the CRT guys chuckling at the LCD guys, when it comes down to the bottom line; picture quality.
Maybe the idea of using a very bright, large area CRT as the basis for a projector has some significant merit, if you can trade brightness for...other aspects of the image.
Kinda like sacrificing maximum SPL, for some of the other desirable qualities of stereo sound reproduction.
One guy mentioned that CRT based projectors have a 5K hours lifetime, vs whatever a good bulb does (70? 700?)
Anyway...
Axeman!
Hey, at least I know why you call yourself Axeman...
Yeah, if you can get the manufacturer to take it back, that's probably a better shot than having ME look at it. You're a trooper for having taken it as far as you did (as pictures depict). Doesnt make you feel any better, I know.
Even given the outcome, I still hate to chalk up the KDS rad as 'unsuitable'. That 11 ms turn time is real good. Does anyone even know what the Viewsonic or others have for this param?
At my work, they have this Xray machine. Its for looking into potted assys. One of the guys who runs it said he'd look into a shorted ignition coil I brought in. Never did - I got a working one from the local mower shop for $5. BUT, you can see where I'm leading. Maybe do an Xray survey of what's inside and where.
I have to think most designs are going to put PCBs in the way of where the light would have to go, as an OHP (mis)application.
It'd be nice to see how Myren and The Xung got their PCB swung outta the way in pictures, like you presented.
Hey, at least I know why you call yourself Axeman...
Yeah, if you can get the manufacturer to take it back, that's probably a better shot than having ME look at it. You're a trooper for having taken it as far as you did (as pictures depict). Doesnt make you feel any better, I know.
Even given the outcome, I still hate to chalk up the KDS rad as 'unsuitable'. That 11 ms turn time is real good. Does anyone even know what the Viewsonic or others have for this param?
At my work, they have this Xray machine. Its for looking into potted assys. One of the guys who runs it said he'd look into a shorted ignition coil I brought in. Never did - I got a working one from the local mower shop for $5. BUT, you can see where I'm leading. Maybe do an Xray survey of what's inside and where.
I have to think most designs are going to put PCBs in the way of where the light would have to go, as an OHP (mis)application.
It'd be nice to see how Myren and The Xung got their PCB swung outta the way in pictures, like you presented.
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