Good crab, Vince! Let us know how the scavenging goes.
Muzzman,
Thanks for posting some screenshots! They look good...the colors are impressive. Could you give some details on your converter circuit? I am especially interested in the line doubling that it performs. Thanks.
-f4
Muzzman,
Thanks for posting some screenshots! They look good...the colors are impressive. Could you give some details on your converter circuit? I am especially interested in the line doubling that it performs. Thanks.
-f4
Pictures coming out B/W, not color. The menu settings are color however. Input was coming up PAL, not the American standard NTSC. I'm going to try for the RGB inputs another time.
Wasn't a bad picture at all and it's best w/ lights out. I am happy w/ the picture.
Wasn't a bad picture at all and it's best w/ lights out. I am happy w/ the picture.
Scot_lad: RGB out
Scot_Lad:
Any information I've ever found on RGB for video (as opposed to computers) state that the sync is on the green, not sure how any of this works and that all voltages are around 0.7V pp. Then again just about every piece of literature I've seen on video standards is home made and almost identical.
If you really want info, have you tried looking at datasheets for video sources to find out the connector specs, this might give you more info. I'm sure my sony CRT has some info in the manual but it's about 400miles away. Oh well......
Hope thats some help.
Vince: You are a lucky man, keep working on them, I've been looking around Campus and asking a few people but no luck yet.
Nick.
Scot_lad:
You could also have a look at the appendices of :
http://www.tektronix.com/Measurement/App_Notes/Component_Puzzle/
For more info.
Scot_Lad:
Any information I've ever found on RGB for video (as opposed to computers) state that the sync is on the green, not sure how any of this works and that all voltages are around 0.7V pp. Then again just about every piece of literature I've seen on video standards is home made and almost identical.
If you really want info, have you tried looking at datasheets for video sources to find out the connector specs, this might give you more info. I'm sure my sony CRT has some info in the manual but it's about 400miles away. Oh well......
Hope thats some help.
Vince: You are a lucky man, keep working on them, I've been looking around Campus and asking a few people but no luck yet.
Nick.
Scot_lad:
You could also have a look at the appendices of :
http://www.tektronix.com/Measurement/App_Notes/Component_Puzzle/
For more info.
RGB splitter and other things
I used the RGB splitter cos I don't have a DVD player yet, and the VCR has only composite outputs. When I bought the PS1 screen, I actually thought all the different brands would use the same panel, and all would internally support composite inputs whether they had an external AV in connector or not. Alas, my one was RGB only. The PCB's that were inside the PS1 screen, but not part of the LCD panel/driver, ie boards designed by MadCatz, had all the chip numbers rubbed off, so I pretty much had to use them in my design. That was the only way I could work out what the inputs were - obviously PS1 AV connector is easy to find out, panel connections are harder...
Someone asked about the sync inputs, playstation one outputs RGB and composite at the same time, and the sync is taken from the composite input even though the picture comes from the RGB inputs. So my circuit takes the composite, splits it into RGB, and also passes the composite straight through to the panel.
f4-
The line doubling is not done by my RGB splitter circuit, or even the PCB's designed by MadCatz - its actually a function of the driver PCB attached to the panel. I think all of the smaller video specific panels do this. Basically each alternate field in a PAL or NTSC frame is displayed on the same 234 or 240 lines one after the other, and the brain merges them much the same as it does with interlacing on a standard CRT.
The best source of info on this and general video, RGB waveforms etc I have found is actually an older SHARP application note. I got it off the web, but I don't have the address now, it is called Interface & Interconnection for 4-inch & 6-inch TFT/LCDs, the doc is numbered SMT92026. Hopefully it is easy to find on the sharp site. I highly recommend getting this app note, it goes way beyond the SHARP lcds, and explains a lot of general video information in a really clear way.
I used the RGB splitter cos I don't have a DVD player yet, and the VCR has only composite outputs. When I bought the PS1 screen, I actually thought all the different brands would use the same panel, and all would internally support composite inputs whether they had an external AV in connector or not. Alas, my one was RGB only. The PCB's that were inside the PS1 screen, but not part of the LCD panel/driver, ie boards designed by MadCatz, had all the chip numbers rubbed off, so I pretty much had to use them in my design. That was the only way I could work out what the inputs were - obviously PS1 AV connector is easy to find out, panel connections are harder...
Someone asked about the sync inputs, playstation one outputs RGB and composite at the same time, and the sync is taken from the composite input even though the picture comes from the RGB inputs. So my circuit takes the composite, splits it into RGB, and also passes the composite straight through to the panel.
f4-
The line doubling is not done by my RGB splitter circuit, or even the PCB's designed by MadCatz - its actually a function of the driver PCB attached to the panel. I think all of the smaller video specific panels do this. Basically each alternate field in a PAL or NTSC frame is displayed on the same 234 or 240 lines one after the other, and the brain merges them much the same as it does with interlacing on a standard CRT.
The best source of info on this and general video, RGB waveforms etc I have found is actually an older SHARP application note. I got it off the web, but I don't have the address now, it is called Interface & Interconnection for 4-inch & 6-inch TFT/LCDs, the doc is numbered SMT92026. Hopefully it is easy to find on the sharp site. I highly recommend getting this app note, it goes way beyond the SHARP lcds, and explains a lot of general video information in a really clear way.
Thanks for the Sharp application note tip, Muzzman. It answered most all of my questions concerning LCD's and signal processing. I posted a link to the pdf on my webpage, along with a few new updates.
Well, I received some optics bits and pieces today, and I also have ordered an LCD. I plan on using a fluorescent array of small compact twin bulbs that will hopefully outperform the LOA. The trick will be finding the right ballast. If that's not practical, I will just fall back on the LOA. I am still taking the "small" approach, but I'm not planning on burning my "rig" down 😛. I will post and update my webpage with any major progress notes.
-f4
Well, I received some optics bits and pieces today, and I also have ordered an LCD. I plan on using a fluorescent array of small compact twin bulbs that will hopefully outperform the LOA. The trick will be finding the right ballast. If that's not practical, I will just fall back on the LOA. I am still taking the "small" approach, but I'm not planning on burning my "rig" down 😛. I will post and update my webpage with any major progress notes.
-f4
Screen shots
Hi all,
I'm hoping to participate here a little more, so here's some screen shots of my "cement half A to half B" projector project. Nicole Kidmann from "Moulan Rouge"...
http://pws.ihpc.net/joejas/projector/NK1.JPG
There's also NK2, NK3...NK6. This is a Nview Z350 at 1024X768 atop a Dukane 4003. Appx 56" diagonal. Still images taken with an Olympus D340 at 1024X768, handheld.
The setup has massive pixel smearing at 60hz refresh, better but not perfect at 75 hz, however watchable.
I'm still thinkin about a latest technology 15" LCD panel monitor with the backlight gutted out, atop the same dukane 4003. Anyone care to speculate on the possibility? Anyone actually done it?
Anyway, thought I'd share.
Hi all,
I'm hoping to participate here a little more, so here's some screen shots of my "cement half A to half B" projector project. Nicole Kidmann from "Moulan Rouge"...
http://pws.ihpc.net/joejas/projector/NK1.JPG
There's also NK2, NK3...NK6. This is a Nview Z350 at 1024X768 atop a Dukane 4003. Appx 56" diagonal. Still images taken with an Olympus D340 at 1024X768, handheld.
The setup has massive pixel smearing at 60hz refresh, better but not perfect at 75 hz, however watchable.
I'm still thinkin about a latest technology 15" LCD panel monitor with the backlight gutted out, atop the same dukane 4003. Anyone care to speculate on the possibility? Anyone actually done it?
Anyway, thought I'd share.
Impressive!
Good work jjasniew!! I would be more than satisfied with that quality picture for regular viewing.
How bright is the picture? Can you watch it with ambient light, or is it barely visible? I wouldn't think that 4k lumens would be bright enough, but that doesn't look bad at all.
Also, what do you mean by pixel smearing? Is it that there is excessive blurring on high-motion scenes??
I hope to borrow an overhead projector from work tonight(~2500 lumens- just to evaluate image quality) to try it out with my KDS 15".
Good work jjasniew!! I would be more than satisfied with that quality picture for regular viewing.
How bright is the picture? Can you watch it with ambient light, or is it barely visible? I wouldn't think that 4k lumens would be bright enough, but that doesn't look bad at all.
Also, what do you mean by pixel smearing? Is it that there is excessive blurring on high-motion scenes??
I hope to borrow an overhead projector from work tonight(~2500 lumens- just to evaluate image quality) to try it out with my KDS 15".
@jjasniew: is that 56" of the diagonal 4:3 or just 56" of the image. Those are some nice pics though.
about lcd monitors. I am having considerable difficulty getting enough light through my 15' lcd monitor. I was trying to project a 6'-7' wide picture, but so much light is loss through the lcd and it's rather difficult to get light through such a wide screen. I was thinking this ~14000 lumen 175 Watt Metal halide would be enough but apparently not. I am gonna try to redirect more of the light in the right direction this weekend but this is harder than I thought.
about lcd monitors. I am having considerable difficulty getting enough light through my 15' lcd monitor. I was trying to project a 6'-7' wide picture, but so much light is loss through the lcd and it's rather difficult to get light through such a wide screen. I was thinking this ~14000 lumen 175 Watt Metal halide would be enough but apparently not. I am gonna try to redirect more of the light in the right direction this weekend but this is harder than I thought.
Hi All
I think some people might be having trouble getting the maximum out of their light source because I have a great 5ft by 3ft image using a 5000 lumens OHP. This isn't even shining on a projector screen. Just saying dont rush out and buy an expensive light unless your sure everything else is sorted.
Also jjasniew was that a dodgy pixel i spotted on your screen shots? If so I found that putting bluetak (stuff for sticking up posters) on the wall where the pixel is showing covers this up pretty well. It is a good comprimise for dark and light movies.
Final point (I'v said this before) anyone looking and thinking I would like some kind of projector but this all looks hard work, expensive and a lot of trial and error:
Buy an overhead projector 4000 lumens minimum.
Buy an overhead active lcd projector panel 640x480 is fine.
Put these together and you have the ability to project whatever is on your pc onto a wall, great if you have a dvd drive.
This can be done for sub £100/$150 very easily. I did it for £45/$70. Will post some photos some time soon.
I know that not everyone wants this route as its not very portable etc but its a great start and you can always sell the stuff you've bought back on ebay.
Andy
p.s. Its harder getting the ohp lcd panels in Europe (i'm in UK) as there are not that many on ebay but the bargains come along every now and again, keep your eyes open.
I think some people might be having trouble getting the maximum out of their light source because I have a great 5ft by 3ft image using a 5000 lumens OHP. This isn't even shining on a projector screen. Just saying dont rush out and buy an expensive light unless your sure everything else is sorted.
Also jjasniew was that a dodgy pixel i spotted on your screen shots? If so I found that putting bluetak (stuff for sticking up posters) on the wall where the pixel is showing covers this up pretty well. It is a good comprimise for dark and light movies.
Final point (I'v said this before) anyone looking and thinking I would like some kind of projector but this all looks hard work, expensive and a lot of trial and error:
Buy an overhead projector 4000 lumens minimum.
Buy an overhead active lcd projector panel 640x480 is fine.
Put these together and you have the ability to project whatever is on your pc onto a wall, great if you have a dvd drive.
This can be done for sub £100/$150 very easily. I did it for £45/$70. Will post some photos some time soon.
I know that not everyone wants this route as its not very portable etc but its a great start and you can always sell the stuff you've bought back on ebay.
Andy
p.s. Its harder getting the ohp lcd panels in Europe (i'm in UK) as there are not that many on ebay but the bargains come along every now and again, keep your eyes open.
nice stuff jjasniew, picture quality looks very good. The res looks great at 1024x768.
fender4:
I am not sure the LOA or equiv is the way to go. Basically the only problem I have left to sort out in my system is the contrast ratio in dark indoor scenes. From what I have read about commercial projector design, designers are always trying to find a light source with a smaller arc so it is closer to a point source. The raytracing I have done backs this up. It is not enough to get lots of light through the panel, you also need to ensure that light travelling through any particular pixel on the LCD will only hit the projection screen at one spot. Any scattering, or light from different angles will wash out the darker scenes, no matter what brightness source you are using.
I am going to work on improving the optics on the source side of the panel on mine, and when I have the configuration of lens etc. right I will build a decent enclosure and ensure all internal surfaces are black to minimise reflections etc.
fender4:
I am not sure the LOA or equiv is the way to go. Basically the only problem I have left to sort out in my system is the contrast ratio in dark indoor scenes. From what I have read about commercial projector design, designers are always trying to find a light source with a smaller arc so it is closer to a point source. The raytracing I have done backs this up. It is not enough to get lots of light through the panel, you also need to ensure that light travelling through any particular pixel on the LCD will only hit the projection screen at one spot. Any scattering, or light from different angles will wash out the darker scenes, no matter what brightness source you are using.
I am going to work on improving the optics on the source side of the panel on mine, and when I have the configuration of lens etc. right I will build a decent enclosure and ensure all internal surfaces are black to minimise reflections etc.
Hi guys,
I gave the projector I found last night one more shot, and I got color out of it. It was set to PAl, instead of NTSC.
I'm not going to go on and on about this newly found toy, but I am going to give out as much info about it as I can to give you an idea what's going on.
First, this couldn't be a more basic projector. It only goes up to 640x480 rez. Uses a 250w metal-halide bulb that costs $385 on sale. It is rare because this proj. is from '96. It has 2 fans, one for intake and one for exhaust. They are about 2.5-3" in dia.
640x480???? It is good for viewing DVD's. I watched an episode of the X-Files last night from my DVD collection. AMAZING! 5'x3' image, but has a zoom to increase and decrease the image.
If you can get 800x600, you are set!! I took pictures. I will post if they come out. Probably develope the roll this weekend.
Vince
I gave the projector I found last night one more shot, and I got color out of it. It was set to PAl, instead of NTSC.
I'm not going to go on and on about this newly found toy, but I am going to give out as much info about it as I can to give you an idea what's going on.
First, this couldn't be a more basic projector. It only goes up to 640x480 rez. Uses a 250w metal-halide bulb that costs $385 on sale. It is rare because this proj. is from '96. It has 2 fans, one for intake and one for exhaust. They are about 2.5-3" in dia.
640x480???? It is good for viewing DVD's. I watched an episode of the X-Files last night from my DVD collection. AMAZING! 5'x3' image, but has a zoom to increase and decrease the image.
If you can get 800x600, you are set!! I took pictures. I will post if they come out. Probably develope the roll this weekend.
Vince
Great pics. Muzzman nice pics too. I love that arcade cabinet and racing game chair! 2 projects ive always wanted to do. Not to mention an enclosure for flight sims.
I tried to go the my own projector route while i waited for the damn ebay shipper to send my projector. But its to hard to find a bright light source that wont melt my fresnels. I am just going to wait for the damn thing to be shipped. I actually got a pretty big image going but my fresnel melted so i couldnt take any pics.
I have a cheeseball website ready for my pics and ill definately post them the second i get the stupid OHP. I hope the guy isnt trying to shaft me.
Questions regarding screens. Can I use oaktage? Can i use white cardboard paper? Can I use poster board?
Thanks! I have an old 50" pull down screen but I dont want to use that its to small a picture. Thanks!
I tried to go the my own projector route while i waited for the damn ebay shipper to send my projector. But its to hard to find a bright light source that wont melt my fresnels. I am just going to wait for the damn thing to be shipped. I actually got a pretty big image going but my fresnel melted so i couldnt take any pics.
I have a cheeseball website ready for my pics and ill definately post them the second i get the stupid OHP. I hope the guy isnt trying to shaft me.
Questions regarding screens. Can I use oaktage? Can i use white cardboard paper? Can I use poster board?
Thanks! I have an old 50" pull down screen but I dont want to use that its to small a picture. Thanks!
jjasniew,
Looks good to me!
See that's all I ask, it's been like pulling teeth getting someone to show a screen shot of one working I was begining to wonder. Thank for putting faith back in this project!
Looks good to me!
See that's all I ask, it's been like pulling teeth getting someone to show a screen shot of one working I was begining to wonder. Thank for putting faith back in this project!
ds21 i was feeling the same until i was going to put my pics up. Then boom melt down and never got a chance. Its pretty funny when your on the other side how things can get screwed up so quick.
But in a week i should get my OHP and hopefully ill have pics up too.
cant wait.
But in a week i should get my OHP and hopefully ill have pics up too.
cant wait.
Some answers
I'll try to elaborate a bit on my setup -
The image is plenty bright in a darkened room, like in a theatre. It is visible with 'the kitchen light on' (i.e. some ambient), but I wouldnt try to read a book and watch this at the same time...
I projected it agains a flat white textured wall. Screens are a couple hundred $ more; I've learned beware of the 2.5 gain ones that will reduce viewing angle - they are bright, if you happen to be "centered". The other screens are 1.0 gain; flat white.
4000 lumens is the overhead output. I dont know what it is after the light goes through the panel - maybe 400? It's quite reduced.
As I said earlier, I got it for $100 via shopping the web, not from ebay where there's a lot of people competing.
The "dodgy pixel" is actually my camera! I bought a bigger memory card when I was in Hawaii and that one just showed up.
(I havent put the smaller memory card back in to see what happens with it)
I agree with Andy's advice (if you want to go the "cement half A to half B" route) Buy an overhead projector 4000 lumens minimum. Buy an overhead active lcd projector panel 640x480.
If you search and shop hard, you can do it. $50-$100 a pop.
Or, of course, you could try projecting through a 15" TFT LCD monitor, at ~$300. That's what I'd ultimately like to do, unless someone explicitly tells me its _NOT_ the way to go.
The 56" measure is on the diagonal of the DVD image in "theatre mode". The whole 1024X768 image was, like, 66" on the diag.
Xung - have you tried your 15" panel atop a 4-8K lumen overhead? I'm very interested if this approach works!
Axeman - do you have the KDS apart? Did it seperate gracefully, or was it scary? Hope you have some success with the 2.5K lumen overhead. On a sunny day at my work, with the blinds closed, one of those wouldnt even show on the screen through the Z350 panel.
The smearing is exactly that; the image blurs and pixelates on fast motion scenes. Looking on ebay, I've seen specs like "tr 15ms, tf 30ms" and also 50 ms. I imagine this is one of the more important paramaters to looks for in a LCD panel monitor...
I'm still chewing on purchasing an overhead with twice the lumens I have now. I wish I could answer the question; at what point does the image just wash-out, as you try to push more light through, in an attempt to get a brighter show? I really dont want to spend $150 and find 4-5K is tops, 6-8K is too much for the Z350 panel.
Or, maybe the super-bright overhead finds its use later, when I attempt to drop a 15" monitor panel onto it, inspired by the success of others here 😉
I'll try to elaborate a bit on my setup -
The image is plenty bright in a darkened room, like in a theatre. It is visible with 'the kitchen light on' (i.e. some ambient), but I wouldnt try to read a book and watch this at the same time...
I projected it agains a flat white textured wall. Screens are a couple hundred $ more; I've learned beware of the 2.5 gain ones that will reduce viewing angle - they are bright, if you happen to be "centered". The other screens are 1.0 gain; flat white.
4000 lumens is the overhead output. I dont know what it is after the light goes through the panel - maybe 400? It's quite reduced.
As I said earlier, I got it for $100 via shopping the web, not from ebay where there's a lot of people competing.
The "dodgy pixel" is actually my camera! I bought a bigger memory card when I was in Hawaii and that one just showed up.
(I havent put the smaller memory card back in to see what happens with it)
I agree with Andy's advice (if you want to go the "cement half A to half B" route) Buy an overhead projector 4000 lumens minimum. Buy an overhead active lcd projector panel 640x480.
If you search and shop hard, you can do it. $50-$100 a pop.
Or, of course, you could try projecting through a 15" TFT LCD monitor, at ~$300. That's what I'd ultimately like to do, unless someone explicitly tells me its _NOT_ the way to go.
The 56" measure is on the diagonal of the DVD image in "theatre mode". The whole 1024X768 image was, like, 66" on the diag.
Xung - have you tried your 15" panel atop a 4-8K lumen overhead? I'm very interested if this approach works!
Axeman - do you have the KDS apart? Did it seperate gracefully, or was it scary? Hope you have some success with the 2.5K lumen overhead. On a sunny day at my work, with the blinds closed, one of those wouldnt even show on the screen through the Z350 panel.
The smearing is exactly that; the image blurs and pixelates on fast motion scenes. Looking on ebay, I've seen specs like "tr 15ms, tf 30ms" and also 50 ms. I imagine this is one of the more important paramaters to looks for in a LCD panel monitor...
I'm still chewing on purchasing an overhead with twice the lumens I have now. I wish I could answer the question; at what point does the image just wash-out, as you try to push more light through, in an attempt to get a brighter show? I really dont want to spend $150 and find 4-5K is tops, 6-8K is too much for the Z350 panel.
Or, maybe the super-bright overhead finds its use later, when I attempt to drop a 15" monitor panel onto it, inspired by the success of others here 😉
DVI cable?
Does any of you know if it is possible to make a cable to connect an LCD panel directly to the DVI connector placed on these newer vga boards? I downloaded some pinout descriptions for the DVI connectors, but I don't know what to do next. Or it's not possible at all? I mean I wouldn't have to buy a separate driver board for the lcd panel if I could hook it into the dvi...
Any idea?
Will I still need some sort of signal processor/converter between the vga and lcd panel, no matter which cable I am using?
Does any of you know if it is possible to make a cable to connect an LCD panel directly to the DVI connector placed on these newer vga boards? I downloaded some pinout descriptions for the DVI connectors, but I don't know what to do next. Or it's not possible at all? I mean I wouldn't have to buy a separate driver board for the lcd panel if I could hook it into the dvi...
Any idea?
Will I still need some sort of signal processor/converter between the vga and lcd panel, no matter which cable I am using?
DAMN
jjasniew -
Got the KDS apart last night. It wasn't too horrible getting it apart, but the design of the board layout means that you have to extend a ribbon cable in order to keep the boards from covering part of the screen. 🙁 I did try it on the ohp though, and I was _really_ surprised how bright it was! I could see my desktop on my wall with the lights on. Didn't get much of a chance to look at it, as the ribbon cable came off(I think), and the image disappeared. I'm going to spend tonight trying to get the screen working again. 🙁 Wish me luck. I'll need it. I'm going to try and extend the ribbon cable and, if it works, build a wooden enclosure to keep things from flexing.
Pixel response time is pretty good on the KDS- I could watch the matrix and other action movies on it without seeing any serious blurring.
jjasniew -
Got the KDS apart last night. It wasn't too horrible getting it apart, but the design of the board layout means that you have to extend a ribbon cable in order to keep the boards from covering part of the screen. 🙁 I did try it on the ohp though, and I was _really_ surprised how bright it was! I could see my desktop on my wall with the lights on. Didn't get much of a chance to look at it, as the ribbon cable came off(I think), and the image disappeared. I'm going to spend tonight trying to get the screen working again. 🙁 Wish me luck. I'll need it. I'm going to try and extend the ribbon cable and, if it works, build a wooden enclosure to keep things from flexing.
Pixel response time is pretty good on the KDS- I could watch the matrix and other action movies on it without seeing any serious blurring.
almsot forgot
I've got some pictures of the disassembled board which I'll put on a page when I get a chance.
Phil
I've got some pictures of the disassembled board which I'll put on a page when I get a chance.
Phil
Hello people,
Vince: I would too like to find a functional projector from a trashcan🙂 Really nice finding.-)
I would think either you're not applying the light correctly or your bulb isn't 14 000 ansi lumens. My OHP bulb was rated 49 000 lm. Lm meaning totally something else than ansi lumens. The projector puts out 11k lumens.
Anyway, my wall (if you could care less🙂) is more brown than it is white. So.. I attached a piece of white paper to the wall and did some comparing and the difference in colors (and somewhat in brightness) was dramatic. So yesterday I ordered 3 meters wide projection screen with motor and got it today but it'll probably take some time before it's operational.
I would want to try the 15" LCD (for the contrast ratio and res) if it wouldn't be so expensive. And people seem to have had some bad luck with them so it's 100% chance I would destroy it. One thing too is that can the OHP suck the whole 15" ? I think Myren had some problems with it but for a while Myren hasn't been posting anything, I wonder what's that about...
Pics from the 15" LCD deassembly would definetly be useful.
Okay, I'm done.
Vince: I would too like to find a functional projector from a trashcan🙂 Really nice finding.-)
The Xung said:
I would think either you're not applying the light correctly or your bulb isn't 14 000 ansi lumens. My OHP bulb was rated 49 000 lm. Lm meaning totally something else than ansi lumens. The projector puts out 11k lumens.
Anyway, my wall (if you could care less🙂) is more brown than it is white. So.. I attached a piece of white paper to the wall and did some comparing and the difference in colors (and somewhat in brightness) was dramatic. So yesterday I ordered 3 meters wide projection screen with motor and got it today but it'll probably take some time before it's operational.
I would want to try the 15" LCD (for the contrast ratio and res) if it wouldn't be so expensive. And people seem to have had some bad luck with them so it's 100% chance I would destroy it. One thing too is that can the OHP suck the whole 15" ? I think Myren had some problems with it but for a while Myren hasn't been posting anything, I wonder what's that about...
Pics from the 15" LCD deassembly would definetly be useful.
Okay, I'm done.
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