Hi all,
I have not posted here before, but have been reading this thread (and the one on greenspan) for a while.
This project is something I have had in the back of my mind for about a year now, and have slowly been working on it. Now I have a fully functional projector with about 384x234 res (i guess), not bad brightness with about 70" image and alright contrast ratio. Not wanting to waffle on, but here's a history of my project.
I started by buying a Delta77 proj lens from AllElectronics, then months later a 5" tft lcd for the Playstation One. The next stage was a couple of months as well, cos i found that the display used RGB inputs, not composite (I now know some of the PS1 screens use composite, some RGB). Lot of pain and mucking about and i built myself a PAL composite to RGB splitter circuit which works great. Then I carefully pulled apart the unit, mounted it on some mdf so I wouldn't break the connections and started experimenting. Not a lot of luck until I bought an old slide projector. I notice some people talking about a 'uv filter' in them - it does block UV, but its main purpose is as a IR filter - just what we want. I removed the proj lens from the slide projector, and put the slide projector behind the lcd by about 40cm. I discovered that with the 4" delta77 lens you only see a round subsection of the image. I swapped the delta 77 lens for a old OHP fresnel I got, and suddenly I have the whole rectangular image with no distortion. Next step was replacing the 24V 150W quartz iodide globe with a 24V 250W globe (knowing that the transformer in the projector probably wont drive it for long without overheating), and tried it out. Worked great, better brightness. Then built a new enclosure to hold the slide projector lenses and a huge 300VA toroidal transformer to drive the 24V 250W globe. That's pretty much what I have now.
Current problems:
brightness: still want a bit more (i reckon I have 8000 to 10000 lumens out of the 24V 250W globe). Myren: you definitely have the right idea with the HID lights. Friends use them for diving torches because they have white light, 3 times the efficiency of the next best thing and long life. VERY expensive though.
Contrast: This is the big one. I am just using a painted wall, not even white, so I want to get a better screen.
Resolution: The res is OK, but I really want more.
Size: Thing is about 1m long, requires a coffee table and bulldog clips to hold it together at the moment 🙂
Anyway well done everyone, keep it up.
I have not posted here before, but have been reading this thread (and the one on greenspan) for a while.
This project is something I have had in the back of my mind for about a year now, and have slowly been working on it. Now I have a fully functional projector with about 384x234 res (i guess), not bad brightness with about 70" image and alright contrast ratio. Not wanting to waffle on, but here's a history of my project.
I started by buying a Delta77 proj lens from AllElectronics, then months later a 5" tft lcd for the Playstation One. The next stage was a couple of months as well, cos i found that the display used RGB inputs, not composite (I now know some of the PS1 screens use composite, some RGB). Lot of pain and mucking about and i built myself a PAL composite to RGB splitter circuit which works great. Then I carefully pulled apart the unit, mounted it on some mdf so I wouldn't break the connections and started experimenting. Not a lot of luck until I bought an old slide projector. I notice some people talking about a 'uv filter' in them - it does block UV, but its main purpose is as a IR filter - just what we want. I removed the proj lens from the slide projector, and put the slide projector behind the lcd by about 40cm. I discovered that with the 4" delta77 lens you only see a round subsection of the image. I swapped the delta 77 lens for a old OHP fresnel I got, and suddenly I have the whole rectangular image with no distortion. Next step was replacing the 24V 150W quartz iodide globe with a 24V 250W globe (knowing that the transformer in the projector probably wont drive it for long without overheating), and tried it out. Worked great, better brightness. Then built a new enclosure to hold the slide projector lenses and a huge 300VA toroidal transformer to drive the 24V 250W globe. That's pretty much what I have now.
Current problems:
brightness: still want a bit more (i reckon I have 8000 to 10000 lumens out of the 24V 250W globe). Myren: you definitely have the right idea with the HID lights. Friends use them for diving torches because they have white light, 3 times the efficiency of the next best thing and long life. VERY expensive though.
Contrast: This is the big one. I am just using a painted wall, not even white, so I want to get a better screen.
Resolution: The res is OK, but I really want more.
Size: Thing is about 1m long, requires a coffee table and bulldog clips to hold it together at the moment 🙂
Anyway well done everyone, keep it up.
Is my bulb bright enough?
I just bought a Bell & Howell 301. I dont know what kind of bulb it comes with, so anyone familiar with it? Is the bulb bright enough for those monstrous screen sizes Mryen was talking about? I know he said he had a 500+ watt metal Halide light 17000lumen or something like that...Did it come stock with your projector or did you have to rig something afterwords? If you did where and howd you do it/get it?
Also where can I get a relpacement bulb for my projector?
Thanks!
I just bought a Bell & Howell 301. I dont know what kind of bulb it comes with, so anyone familiar with it? Is the bulb bright enough for those monstrous screen sizes Mryen was talking about? I know he said he had a 500+ watt metal Halide light 17000lumen or something like that...Did it come stock with your projector or did you have to rig something afterwords? If you did where and howd you do it/get it?
Also where can I get a relpacement bulb for my projector?
Thanks!
Hey folks, just letting you know whats going on in sunny Scotland.
The major pain in the *** is the LCD over here, although I did manage to speak to a guy over the phone at www.steatite.co.uk who supply bare *** OPTREX LCD modules and are willing to supply on an indiidual basis.
My choice is a 5, 5.6 or 6.4 inch at 960x230 or a 6.4 @ 640x480 but I think this only take VGA input, still it might be worth it for the better resolution.
Still can't find a work light or similar fluorescent tube above 30w, but I noticed that some aquarium setups use high wattage fluorescents so I'm off tomorrow to a local aquarium shop that I have been told sell them.
Just thought I'd throw in an update here....
Vince
_____
can I ask what kind of LCD you are currently using in your setup?
Cheers Guys
The major pain in the *** is the LCD over here, although I did manage to speak to a guy over the phone at www.steatite.co.uk who supply bare *** OPTREX LCD modules and are willing to supply on an indiidual basis.
My choice is a 5, 5.6 or 6.4 inch at 960x230 or a 6.4 @ 640x480 but I think this only take VGA input, still it might be worth it for the better resolution.
Still can't find a work light or similar fluorescent tube above 30w, but I noticed that some aquarium setups use high wattage fluorescents so I'm off tomorrow to a local aquarium shop that I have been told sell them.
Just thought I'd throw in an update here....
Vince
_____
can I ask what kind of LCD you are currently using in your setup?
Cheers Guys
KDS Problems?
Myren-
Can you please describe the plastic stoppers on the KDS Rad 5?? I would really like to get one but I need to know if this is going to be a problem. Did your viewsonic have any hacker deterrent? 😀 Thanks..
Myren-
Can you please describe the plastic stoppers on the KDS Rad 5?? I would really like to get one but I need to know if this is going to be a problem. Did your viewsonic have any hacker deterrent? 😀 Thanks..
Quick post...
If you are looking for some more lighting sources, this might help:
Online Light Supplier Directory
Hope it helps!
-f4
If you are looking for some more lighting sources, this might help:
Online Light Supplier Directory
Hope it helps!
-f4
skilzygw: i already said that projector - as a whole - bulb included - was fine. if there were a problem with the bulb, we woulda said something already.
I am a rabid ebay buyer. Someone should keep me away from that thing! Well here we go, I bought lcd projector plans a week ago still waiting on them! When I get them would anyone be interested in them? I dont know if they stink or what but I could scan them and email them or put it on a website for people. I think it might be good for newbies who need a step by step guide. Anyone know of a site that lets you do free webhosting with easy ways to upload pics?
Ok number 2 I ordered a bell and howard projector 301 model. Does anyone know what type of bulb comes stock on this thing lumen output wise?
Ok number 3 I just ordered a lcd panel! HAHA. Couldnt wait. I got it cheap 80 bucks total shipping + everything. Its a Model A522C Proxima LCD Projection Panel. As long as its not black and white ill be ok.
Number 4 when I get everything I want to take pics and upload it to a website. I havent seen many pics of final products so I thought someone might be interested.
Just wanted to write that. I should get everything within 2 weeks.
So until then I get to wait! Yayyy(sarcastic)
Thanks for listening/reading
Ok number 2 I ordered a bell and howard projector 301 model. Does anyone know what type of bulb comes stock on this thing lumen output wise?
Ok number 3 I just ordered a lcd panel! HAHA. Couldnt wait. I got it cheap 80 bucks total shipping + everything. Its a Model A522C Proxima LCD Projection Panel. As long as its not black and white ill be ok.
Number 4 when I get everything I want to take pics and upload it to a website. I havent seen many pics of final products so I thought someone might be interested.
Just wanted to write that. I should get everything within 2 weeks.
So until then I get to wait! Yayyy(sarcastic)
Thanks for listening/reading
HID's arent that bad $$$ wise. $40 for ballast, $25 for bulb, $30 for starter. I saw a kit for $65 for a 400 watt bulb including all the required circuitry to run off 120, but i forgot to bookmark it.
Still looking for decent prices for short-arc MH HID.
HID is the way to go.
Still looking for decent prices for short-arc MH HID.
HID is the way to go.
axeman: i might actually go for something other than the RAD 5. I took a harder look and it looks like you'd probably end up bending the plastic a little bit to get the plastic whoobajoobs out of the screw sockets.
the viewsonic was pretty good. the only tampering evidence at all was a little bit of silver metal duct tape on the inside. wait another week and if i've got a monitor en route to me i can say without reserve to go the viewsonic route.
myren
the viewsonic was pretty good. the only tampering evidence at all was a little bit of silver metal duct tape on the inside. wait another week and if i've got a monitor en route to me i can say without reserve to go the viewsonic route.
myren
Yeah I am going to get a viewsonic later on also. I am saving up the extra dough to get one and attempt to open it up.
For the time being hopefully my panel will do. Myren you talk about cooling alot. Do I have to worry about cooling with my LCD panel? Or is it only a problem if you use a lcd monitor and open it up?
Do you have to worry about heat for the projector itself?
Thanks!
For the time being hopefully my panel will do. Myren you talk about cooling alot. Do I have to worry about cooling with my LCD panel? Or is it only a problem if you use a lcd monitor and open it up?
Do you have to worry about heat for the projector itself?
Thanks!
axe: other than the plastic screw cover thingies, it'd probably be good though. i wouldnt let it deter you too much if thats what your set for.
and, ah, we gotta figure a way to get the backlights going. i had the viewsonic minus control circuitry and lcd panel sitting around looking cool as ****, and it'd make a cool as **** light.
and, ah, we gotta figure a way to get the backlights going. i had the viewsonic minus control circuitry and lcd panel sitting around looking cool as ****, and it'd make a cool as **** light.
i'm thinking of trying and finding a way of fabbing a huge ellipsoidal reflector, like a stage ellipsoidal reflector but around twenty seven inches in diameter and between two and three feet deep. placing the bulb at the foci inside the reflector would focus the light almost exactly like the fresnel does in an over head projector, but it would catch about 90% of the light, way more efficeint.
anyways, just place a sheet of glass (block some of the heat) and the LCD at the end of the reflector and then put some carefully calculated optical components out after that and that should be it.
the main idea would be to make it a mold so i could keep fabbing more with relative simplity. and it'd be big enough so that i could use virtually any LCD under the sun. I dream one day that perhaps i can try this one out in it. yeah right.
depending on how simple the mold is to make, i'd like to make two smaller ones, one for 15 inch panels and one for 18.1 inch panels. The reflector for the 15 inch panel wouldnt be that bad.
Ideally i'll be able to mold tubes on the outside of the reflector too. Just hook up a water pump, small sealed resivour and a decent radiator and kiss that heat goodbye. Or so i hope.
I'm not really sure how this whole mold thing is gonna work though. It could very well end up never happening. I'm going to have to talk a lot with my uncle about it. It'll probably involve lathing out a wooden image of the inversed dish and making a cermaic/plastic mold with that. But i have no clue what I'd pour in the final mold itself that would give me good reflectivity.
anyways, just place a sheet of glass (block some of the heat) and the LCD at the end of the reflector and then put some carefully calculated optical components out after that and that should be it.
the main idea would be to make it a mold so i could keep fabbing more with relative simplity. and it'd be big enough so that i could use virtually any LCD under the sun. I dream one day that perhaps i can try this one out in it. yeah right.
depending on how simple the mold is to make, i'd like to make two smaller ones, one for 15 inch panels and one for 18.1 inch panels. The reflector for the 15 inch panel wouldnt be that bad.
Ideally i'll be able to mold tubes on the outside of the reflector too. Just hook up a water pump, small sealed resivour and a decent radiator and kiss that heat goodbye. Or so i hope.
I'm not really sure how this whole mold thing is gonna work though. It could very well end up never happening. I'm going to have to talk a lot with my uncle about it. It'll probably involve lathing out a wooden image of the inversed dish and making a cermaic/plastic mold with that. But i have no clue what I'd pour in the final mold itself that would give me good reflectivity.
About water cooling, has anyone tried this: Imagine a fish tank in between the light source and LCD/lenses, now squish the sides together until it's a rather slim compact fish tank. Seal the top and cycle water through it. Now you have a heat barrier that is cooled by water, in essence something like a double paned window with water in between for cooling.
Now, in a metal halide light setup, what is the starter, is it necessary and where can I get one? And how is it connected to the ballast, socket and bulb?
Now, in a metal halide light setup, what is the starter, is it necessary and where can I get one? And how is it connected to the ballast, socket and bulb?
About MH and HID
Would something like this be overkill?
Bulb
Whats this for Ballast?
And wheres the actual lamp it screws into?
Are these the kind of setups u guys are talking about? MH gives of to much heat though right?
Thanks!
Would something like this be overkill?
Bulb
Whats this for Ballast?
And wheres the actual lamp it screws into?
Are these the kind of setups u guys are talking about? MH gives of to much heat though right?
Thanks!
ellipsoidal reflector
Myren, if you were able to calculate a formula for the reflector (e.g. y= 3x^2, etc.) you may be able to get someone with a computer controlled lathe they could machine it straight to steel, or something like that. even some very skilled engineer could do it on a lathe by hand/eye. then have the inside coated with a aluminium - i believe that is what mirrors are. that would give you a mirror finish. i think anyway. maybe do a search with google to see how mirrors are made (orther than grinding). or you could just get it machined to aluminium and have it polished to the desired relectiveness. i think that would be a better way to go about it. much easier than creating casts and moldings for it.
Come to think of it where i work we have giant parabolic reflectors (maybe more sperical actually) they are around 2-3 feet deep, with a diameter/apature of around 2.5 feet. maybe have a look at some of those lighting manufactuer's websites that everyone like to share around. i think any decent hardware store should stock them, so it'd be better to investigate a little before you start to fab them, as i know they exist and would be a hell of a lot cheaper to buy then build.
from memory they look like they have been pressed from a sheet of aluminium.
this would be very good -being able to use very large lcd screens. but the sheer amount of light needed would be crazy, and the physical size of the unit would be an issue also. i am very interested, and this could be a good way to go.
also if you wanted to cool the reflector down, you might be able to coil some copper piping tightly around it, then run water through it off to a radiator. that would definately be able to cool the reflector with minimal noise. that is what i might be doing, as i have salvaged an old parabolic reflector from some darkroom equiplment.
Myren, if you were able to calculate a formula for the reflector (e.g. y= 3x^2, etc.) you may be able to get someone with a computer controlled lathe they could machine it straight to steel, or something like that. even some very skilled engineer could do it on a lathe by hand/eye. then have the inside coated with a aluminium - i believe that is what mirrors are. that would give you a mirror finish. i think anyway. maybe do a search with google to see how mirrors are made (orther than grinding). or you could just get it machined to aluminium and have it polished to the desired relectiveness. i think that would be a better way to go about it. much easier than creating casts and moldings for it.
Come to think of it where i work we have giant parabolic reflectors (maybe more sperical actually) they are around 2-3 feet deep, with a diameter/apature of around 2.5 feet. maybe have a look at some of those lighting manufactuer's websites that everyone like to share around. i think any decent hardware store should stock them, so it'd be better to investigate a little before you start to fab them, as i know they exist and would be a hell of a lot cheaper to buy then build.
from memory they look like they have been pressed from a sheet of aluminium.
this would be very good -being able to use very large lcd screens. but the sheer amount of light needed would be crazy, and the physical size of the unit would be an issue also. i am very interested, and this could be a good way to go.
also if you wanted to cool the reflector down, you might be able to coil some copper piping tightly around it, then run water through it off to a radiator. that would definately be able to cool the reflector with minimal noise. that is what i might be doing, as i have salvaged an old parabolic reflector from some darkroom equiplment.
cool light
i was also thinking of using something like The Xung's idea of using two pieces of glass with water or someother clear fluid inbetween. the only issue is the optics involved, if i remember my physics correctly (snell's law i think) then the light will bend off centre -like when you look at a stick sticking out of a pool of water. i don't know what kind of effect it would have if it is before the light hits the screen. it would be almost perfect for removing the heat specifically, but i'm pretty sure that it would be fairly poor a allowing un-altered light through also some of the light's intensity would diminish. i could be wrong thought. hopefully i am, as this would be a really good solution.
a small section of double glazed glass would be another good solution but possibly the same issue of the optics occurs, and then active cooling would be needed to cool the front pane of glass.
i was also thinking of using something like The Xung's idea of using two pieces of glass with water or someother clear fluid inbetween. the only issue is the optics involved, if i remember my physics correctly (snell's law i think) then the light will bend off centre -like when you look at a stick sticking out of a pool of water. i don't know what kind of effect it would have if it is before the light hits the screen. it would be almost perfect for removing the heat specifically, but i'm pretty sure that it would be fairly poor a allowing un-altered light through also some of the light's intensity would diminish. i could be wrong thought. hopefully i am, as this would be a really good solution.
a small section of double glazed glass would be another good solution but possibly the same issue of the optics occurs, and then active cooling would be needed to cool the front pane of glass.
Fender4
On Page 51 you quotyed me, the idea of that thread was to show that heat filters really work, but not the one I tried becuase it could not take the heat, you can buy proper ones that take up too 400degrees celcius. Water cooling with the glass and the water between it is not a good idea becuase if you leave the projector algey will grow, maybe use a different fluid. I just riped apart my OHP taking out all the old electronics so I can house my new 650watt 240volt 12 000 lumen globe. Would one fan at the front of the projector drawing air in and the other at the back be enough to keep it all cool, the fans are 105CMF. But I feel that you still get radiant heat which is what is focused from the fresnel onto the LCD which can make a nice burn mark and cook the LCD, still not one for water cooling, unless you are talking about Myrens idea with water cooloing the reflector. I work for IMAX and they are looking into to buying a data projector so they can hire it out to bussiness meatings, like the add says imagin a powerpoint presentaion on the IMAX screen, although it would look tiny compared to the rest of the screen, I might get them to make a high res LCD one!😀
On Page 51 you quotyed me, the idea of that thread was to show that heat filters really work, but not the one I tried becuase it could not take the heat, you can buy proper ones that take up too 400degrees celcius. Water cooling with the glass and the water between it is not a good idea becuase if you leave the projector algey will grow, maybe use a different fluid. I just riped apart my OHP taking out all the old electronics so I can house my new 650watt 240volt 12 000 lumen globe. Would one fan at the front of the projector drawing air in and the other at the back be enough to keep it all cool, the fans are 105CMF. But I feel that you still get radiant heat which is what is focused from the fresnel onto the LCD which can make a nice burn mark and cook the LCD, still not one for water cooling, unless you are talking about Myrens idea with water cooloing the reflector. I work for IMAX and they are looking into to buying a data projector so they can hire it out to bussiness meatings, like the add says imagin a powerpoint presentaion on the IMAX screen, although it would look tiny compared to the rest of the screen, I might get them to make a high res LCD one!😀
Light source idea
Has anyone considered using one of those high powered spot lights as a light source? Some of them are rated at 3,000,000 candle power. Not sure what that translates into lumens. But it would be a bright straight beam of light. I don't know what kind of heat issues could be run into, but maybe it's an idea.
Has anyone considered using one of those high powered spot lights as a light source? Some of them are rated at 3,000,000 candle power. Not sure what that translates into lumens. But it would be a bright straight beam of light. I don't know what kind of heat issues could be run into, but maybe it's an idea.
skilzygw,
Did you look at this one on the same site:
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/elights/rabfloodhid2.html
I was thinking maybe the ballast comes with this?
For $169 if it comes with the Ballast, Bulb, reflector, and case, not a bad deal!
Did you look at this one on the same site:
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/elights/rabfloodhid2.html
I was thinking maybe the ballast comes with this?
For $169 if it comes with the Ballast, Bulb, reflector, and case, not a bad deal!
skilzygw:
the Bell & Howell 301 uses the DYS/DYV/BHC which has an initial lumen output of 17,000 and a color of 3000K.
These guys sell the bulbs real cheap:-
http://www.etsusa.org/templates/avlamps.odb?parm=Lamp
Xung:
besides the water cooling, we still need to get rid of the radiated IR. I have tried putting my hand at the focal point of the top fresnel of the B&H 301 OHP, wow! was that friggy hot!! Touching the fresnel itself was much better.
the Bell & Howell 301 uses the DYS/DYV/BHC which has an initial lumen output of 17,000 and a color of 3000K.
These guys sell the bulbs real cheap:-
http://www.etsusa.org/templates/avlamps.odb?parm=Lamp
Xung:
besides the water cooling, we still need to get rid of the radiated IR. I have tried putting my hand at the focal point of the top fresnel of the B&H 301 OHP, wow! was that friggy hot!! Touching the fresnel itself was much better.
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