LCD
Well I got a Sharp QA-1650 OHP LCD panel 640X480 16.3 million colors its real nice i picked it up off ebay for $150 and I got a Dukane 28A680 which is made for lcd projection it has a 570 watt MH bulb lasts 750 hours has a color temp of 5600 but the bulb cost $214. Im not sure if I really want to pay that much every 750 hours so Im still looking at other light sources. I did find a company that makes specialty bulbs OSRAM Sylvania but Im sure those arnt cheep either.
Well I got a Sharp QA-1650 OHP LCD panel 640X480 16.3 million colors its real nice i picked it up off ebay for $150 and I got a Dukane 28A680 which is made for lcd projection it has a 570 watt MH bulb lasts 750 hours has a color temp of 5600 but the bulb cost $214. Im not sure if I really want to pay that much every 750 hours so Im still looking at other light sources. I did find a company that makes specialty bulbs OSRAM Sylvania but Im sure those arnt cheep either.
BodySuitMan:
Here is some street math for your scenario:
The lens is a compound lens so the focal point of 90mm may not be exactly at that distance from the surface of the outer lenses; that is actually the tricky part.
Size of your panel: 8" x 6" ; just an assumption
Gain required: 12 ; to get the 8' x 6' image
Location of your panel from the lens: 90mm + Xmm ; remember this value must be less than(2 x 90mm) to obtain a magnification. If all your panel image is captured by the lens at this distance you are in good shape.
Your result: 12 x ( 90 + X) mm ; distance from screen
😱
Here is some street math for your scenario:
The lens is a compound lens so the focal point of 90mm may not be exactly at that distance from the surface of the outer lenses; that is actually the tricky part.
Size of your panel: 8" x 6" ; just an assumption
Gain required: 12 ; to get the 8' x 6' image
Location of your panel from the lens: 90mm + Xmm ; remember this value must be less than(2 x 90mm) to obtain a magnification. If all your panel image is captured by the lens at this distance you are in good shape.
Your result: 12 x ( 90 + X) mm ; distance from screen
😱
torn ribbon
Hi Joe
If it's the copper coloured ribbon, all you need to do is scratch away the coating on the broken tracks one at a time, it should be copper underneath, get some of the right flux non corrosive type, tin each side then link together. I've done it to mine as well different board same problem. A good stead hand will get you through.
Don't lose heart, can be fixed.
Cheers😀
Jason
Hi Joe
If it's the copper coloured ribbon, all you need to do is scratch away the coating on the broken tracks one at a time, it should be copper underneath, get some of the right flux non corrosive type, tin each side then link together. I've done it to mine as well different board same problem. A good stead hand will get you through.
Don't lose heart, can be fixed.
Cheers😀
Jason
The lady tried that...
She scraped and tried to solder, but couldnt get it to wick onto the cable. The only way is to find the source pin on the connector plug (easier) and then the destination on the panel driver chip PCB (more difficult). I have a microscope, so, it may be yet possible as others have suggesed.
She scraped and tried to solder, but couldnt get it to wick onto the cable. The only way is to find the source pin on the connector plug (easier) and then the destination on the panel driver chip PCB (more difficult). I have a microscope, so, it may be yet possible as others have suggesed.
Chasing wires
Hi jjasniew
Tracing where the wires go is'nt that easy either, That's what I've been trying hard to work out on mine, because it's one of those that pop out in the car stereo, and I do'nt have the manual for it, it come down to trial and error, That why I've fried a couple of trackes on the main board, and blow a fuse which was conveniantly soldiered directly to the board, but I was able to fix that and I'm currently in need of help from a electrian to find out if I can just run the screen seperately by tracing the inputs from the main board and connecting the input signal straight to the ribbin?
Cheers
Jason
Hi jjasniew
Tracing where the wires go is'nt that easy either, That's what I've been trying hard to work out on mine, because it's one of those that pop out in the car stereo, and I do'nt have the manual for it, it come down to trial and error, That why I've fried a couple of trackes on the main board, and blow a fuse which was conveniantly soldiered directly to the board, but I was able to fix that and I'm currently in need of help from a electrian to find out if I can just run the screen seperately by tracing the inputs from the main board and connecting the input signal straight to the ribbin?
Cheers
Jason
Yikes
Joe, wow, that sucks. I think this is at least the 3rd complete lcd panel disaster that has happened to us here in the DIY thread. Funny thing you posted that the day I got my panel.
Anyways, kinda of turing point for me today ( I guess you could call it a step back...) I just got my new Viewsonic VG150 moniter, and while I was explaining this to my girlfriend over the phone how great this thing was, I started realize how much all this was costing me. I'm mean I haven't even bought the MH light or screen yet. I think I'm going to have to wuss out and get a 640 x 480 or a 800 x 600 lcd projector panel, I should be able to ebay my vg150, and cover my losses though.
So, what is the skinny on the OHP panels? Anyone know the vintage of the popular models out there on ebay? Like the proxima or any of the other usual suspects? Are the response times (my only real concern) passable for DVD watching? And if it is, what model are you using. And just as important, if it isn't, what model...
Dang is late gotta sleep, nite
-Mike
Joe, wow, that sucks. I think this is at least the 3rd complete lcd panel disaster that has happened to us here in the DIY thread. Funny thing you posted that the day I got my panel.
Anyways, kinda of turing point for me today ( I guess you could call it a step back...) I just got my new Viewsonic VG150 moniter, and while I was explaining this to my girlfriend over the phone how great this thing was, I started realize how much all this was costing me. I'm mean I haven't even bought the MH light or screen yet. I think I'm going to have to wuss out and get a 640 x 480 or a 800 x 600 lcd projector panel, I should be able to ebay my vg150, and cover my losses though.
So, what is the skinny on the OHP panels? Anyone know the vintage of the popular models out there on ebay? Like the proxima or any of the other usual suspects? Are the response times (my only real concern) passable for DVD watching? And if it is, what model are you using. And just as important, if it isn't, what model...
Dang is late gotta sleep, nite
-Mike
LCD Panels
Well first of all DONT buy an LCD panel without a power supply I have made this mistake and found out that the power supply for some of these cost $200+ as for colors the proxima ovations have about 4 million colors not to great but not real bad either. The best thing to do is search yahoo or google for info about the panels to make sure your not buying one not suited for this. I did also see a few that were grey scale and didnt say any thing about being grey scalee in the description. But like I posted earlier if you can get a sharp qa-1650 thier real nice for this project.
Well first of all DONT buy an LCD panel without a power supply I have made this mistake and found out that the power supply for some of these cost $200+ as for colors the proxima ovations have about 4 million colors not to great but not real bad either. The best thing to do is search yahoo or google for info about the panels to make sure your not buying one not suited for this. I did also see a few that were grey scale and didnt say any thing about being grey scalee in the description. But like I posted earlier if you can get a sharp qa-1650 thier real nice for this project.
In answer to Gav and several email questions I'v had.
The proxima ovation 810 panel handles DVDs with no problems and has good contrast. No worries about ghosting or jerkyness either. It worked fantastic with ISS on the N64 aswell. High speed sport through the TV card can be slightly unsmooth in very very fast motion bits but it still handles it OK and this could be my pc anyway. Seeing as this panel is really common so easier to get cheap I recommend it. The maximum screen size i have tried is about 6ft by 4ft and it worked very well at this size. Infact this is the size in the picturers. I expect it could go bigger without any problems.
Andy
The proxima ovation 810 panel handles DVDs with no problems and has good contrast. No worries about ghosting or jerkyness either. It worked fantastic with ISS on the N64 aswell. High speed sport through the TV card can be slightly unsmooth in very very fast motion bits but it still handles it OK and this could be my pc anyway. Seeing as this panel is really common so easier to get cheap I recommend it. The maximum screen size i have tried is about 6ft by 4ft and it worked very well at this size. Infact this is the size in the picturers. I expect it could go bigger without any problems.
Andy
Sorry to hear about the ribbon disaster, Joe. Good luck with that.
My NView Spectra C (I "reviewed" it on the Good panel/Bad Panel thread) is from 1993. I was suprised when I read it was that old, but I think that may have been the era of most of the 640x480 color panels.
After being dissatisfied with the results I got from the LOA light, I think I will try a cheap metal halide setup. I'm with you, contrapasta...I've already spent over $120 on my project, and this is really more than I wanted (or can afford) to spend. I think I am going to order a fresnel and head lens salvaged from an OHP and then try the $64 metal halide setup I mentioned before:
-f4 (El Cheapo)
My NView Spectra C (I "reviewed" it on the Good panel/Bad Panel thread) is from 1993. I was suprised when I read it was that old, but I think that may have been the era of most of the 640x480 color panels.
After being dissatisfied with the results I got from the LOA light, I think I will try a cheap metal halide setup. I'm with you, contrapasta...I've already spent over $120 on my project, and this is really more than I wanted (or can afford) to spend. I think I am going to order a fresnel and head lens salvaged from an OHP and then try the $64 metal halide setup I mentioned before:
That should at least keep the cost to a minimum.
-f4 (El Cheapo)
Latest disasters
As the self appointed cheerleader in charge around here, I hate to see all the 'disasters' piling up!! Looks like the OHP/Panel setup is the way to go for most folks since even the tech-heads are getting hosed by the constant flexcable calamaties.
And the optics expertise required to build your own projector are mainly still unresolved. At best, each of these optics solutions is specific only to the individual design and not portable as a global solution for all. The lack of a single supplier and identifiable 'set' of lenses just reinforces my conclusion that FOR NOW at least, the easiest/cheapest/best overall solution is as noted above.
For all of those who have lost real money trying to blaze a better trail, the rest of us are grateful. Don't look at how much it has cost you. Look at how much you're saving in the long run. At least that's what my wife tells me when she goes out on her shopping sprees.
Enjoy.
As the self appointed cheerleader in charge around here, I hate to see all the 'disasters' piling up!! Looks like the OHP/Panel setup is the way to go for most folks since even the tech-heads are getting hosed by the constant flexcable calamaties.
And the optics expertise required to build your own projector are mainly still unresolved. At best, each of these optics solutions is specific only to the individual design and not portable as a global solution for all. The lack of a single supplier and identifiable 'set' of lenses just reinforces my conclusion that FOR NOW at least, the easiest/cheapest/best overall solution is as noted above.
For all of those who have lost real money trying to blaze a better trail, the rest of us are grateful. Don't look at how much it has cost you. Look at how much you're saving in the long run. At least that's what my wife tells me when she goes out on her shopping sprees.
Enjoy.
Talk about cost...
I think I'm one deep breath away from just selling all my @#$%& panels and projectors - and bidding $1.5K on some REAL CRT based unit!
I've got a couple of lessons learned;
1. Investigation can be expensive (what panel do I get, what works/what doesnt, what projector, try this, try that etc)
2. Ebay can be frustrating (bid $150 on a Dukane Quantum - if only to try it out, lost by $3! Probably glad I did now...)
3. Down at the nitty-gritty, nuts 'n bolts level, the technology required to put together something DECENT (like the VP140 could have been, if it didnt break in the process) just may well be beyond what most of us (I'm an engineer, working at a high tech company, with high tech resources available) are capable of.
The most realizable system remains the combination of a decent panel (10" aperature, highest resolution and highest colors you can get) with the brightest OHP you can get. Marklar - you're lucky to have the Quantum!
I've only monkey'd around with the panel side of things - the optics and light source? Looking inside my HP-A305, I wont even go there. Point is, building everything from the ground up, using discrete parts you could easily run up to $1K. I think others are noticing the spending trend towards this intercept!
Of course, to each his or her own and for you, personally, the experience of figuring it all out and engineering a solution may be well worth this kind of money -
For me, I find the growing credit balance annoying - and I still only have a noisy, decent (as in passable) system to watch, who's operation is limited to the few hundred hours left on the bulb, before I gotta fork out another $200 for one of those...
I think I'm one deep breath away from just selling all my @#$%& panels and projectors - and bidding $1.5K on some REAL CRT based unit!
I've got a couple of lessons learned;
1. Investigation can be expensive (what panel do I get, what works/what doesnt, what projector, try this, try that etc)
2. Ebay can be frustrating (bid $150 on a Dukane Quantum - if only to try it out, lost by $3! Probably glad I did now...)
3. Down at the nitty-gritty, nuts 'n bolts level, the technology required to put together something DECENT (like the VP140 could have been, if it didnt break in the process) just may well be beyond what most of us (I'm an engineer, working at a high tech company, with high tech resources available) are capable of.
The most realizable system remains the combination of a decent panel (10" aperature, highest resolution and highest colors you can get) with the brightest OHP you can get. Marklar - you're lucky to have the Quantum!
I've only monkey'd around with the panel side of things - the optics and light source? Looking inside my HP-A305, I wont even go there. Point is, building everything from the ground up, using discrete parts you could easily run up to $1K. I think others are noticing the spending trend towards this intercept!
Of course, to each his or her own and for you, personally, the experience of figuring it all out and engineering a solution may be well worth this kind of money -
For me, I find the growing credit balance annoying - and I still only have a noisy, decent (as in passable) system to watch, who's operation is limited to the few hundred hours left on the bulb, before I gotta fork out another $200 for one of those...
Other thoughts
The frustration level seems to be growing almost as long as the thread🙁
I think the mass marketing of lcd projectors may well outpace the hobbyists here. There really isn't any good reason that the projector/lcd industry couldn't produce a reasonably priced unit to the 'masses' for under $500 IMHO.
Since the biggest buyers of these LCD systems are businesses, there doesn't seem to be much incentive for the producers to lower the price (and decrease their profit margins).
I'll bet these projectors don't cost much more than a VCR to produce and that the high price at retail is 'illusory'. My guess is that if folks STOPPED PAYING the big bucks for these projectors, the price would fall drastically.
Think about it guys. Some of you (who are a lot more tech and mechanically oriented than me) have put together at least ADEQUATE systems, all bodged together out of products designed for other purposes. The results aren't optimal, but without the expertise and specific capacity/access to the best materials, you've still accomplished something approaching a viable alternative. What it boils down to is this. From a production level, all that is really involved is a relatively inexpensive LCD, some cheap lenses and a half-assed decent light source enclosed in a plastic case.
What producer is going to step in to fill this market 'niche'?
Enjoy.
The frustration level seems to be growing almost as long as the thread🙁
I think the mass marketing of lcd projectors may well outpace the hobbyists here. There really isn't any good reason that the projector/lcd industry couldn't produce a reasonably priced unit to the 'masses' for under $500 IMHO.
Since the biggest buyers of these LCD systems are businesses, there doesn't seem to be much incentive for the producers to lower the price (and decrease their profit margins).
I'll bet these projectors don't cost much more than a VCR to produce and that the high price at retail is 'illusory'. My guess is that if folks STOPPED PAYING the big bucks for these projectors, the price would fall drastically.
Think about it guys. Some of you (who are a lot more tech and mechanically oriented than me) have put together at least ADEQUATE systems, all bodged together out of products designed for other purposes. The results aren't optimal, but without the expertise and specific capacity/access to the best materials, you've still accomplished something approaching a viable alternative. What it boils down to is this. From a production level, all that is really involved is a relatively inexpensive LCD, some cheap lenses and a half-assed decent light source enclosed in a plastic case.
What producer is going to step in to fill this market 'niche'?
Enjoy.
cheer up
OK
I just watched Gladiator on my $180 system last night. Watching on a big screen was amazing. Yeah I was in my darkened basement but so what. Everybody had/has the opportunity to pick up a 640x480 panel cheaply and an equally cheap OHP (mine is 5000k lumen not 10000k).
Screens are covered on the avsforum. I paid $30 for materials. The picture I have is great and would be great if i had paid $1000 for it. So please people if you want the best, pay for it. If not have some fun in your basement playing Playstation games and watching DVDs with your family.
Best of luck
Ian
OK
I just watched Gladiator on my $180 system last night. Watching on a big screen was amazing. Yeah I was in my darkened basement but so what. Everybody had/has the opportunity to pick up a 640x480 panel cheaply and an equally cheap OHP (mine is 5000k lumen not 10000k).
Screens are covered on the avsforum. I paid $30 for materials. The picture I have is great and would be great if i had paid $1000 for it. So please people if you want the best, pay for it. If not have some fun in your basement playing Playstation games and watching DVDs with your family.
Best of luck
Ian
Hey is there any way to watch regular cable television on your projector other than using a pc with a tv card? Do some LCD projection panels have the nescessary cable tv jacks? Is there some kind of adapter that will convert a cable tv line into a composite or s-video line? Thanks.
tv
Bodysuit
My panel (sharp QA-1150) has composite and s-video inputs. If you use a vcr as the tuner you're all set. However the picture will be better if you use a line doubler. There were earlier posts about the viewsonic which is a cheap alternative to a PC. If you use a PC you can use the dscaler program for line doubling among other things.
Ian
Bodysuit
My panel (sharp QA-1150) has composite and s-video inputs. If you use a vcr as the tuner you're all set. However the picture will be better if you use a line doubler. There were earlier posts about the viewsonic which is a cheap alternative to a PC. If you use a PC you can use the dscaler program for line doubling among other things.
Ian
Thanks kinsale. And, as a matter of fact, my panel is the exact same one as yours, the sharp qa-1150. I dont have it yet though, i ordered it off ebay on sunday. From your second to last post i see that your qa-1150 is working out great for you. thats excellent news! Mind if i ask what size you have your OHP producing? and is there a problem with the "screen door effect" where the pixels are too big looking (thats one thing im concerned about). Im also a little concerned about colour on the qa-1150. I read that it only displays 185,000 colours as apposed to the qa-1650 and many others that produce 16 million+ colours. Thanks!
lcd panel
BodySuitMan
My picture size is about 6 feet wide. Big enough for me! The screen door effect is not very noticeable. If it bother you just slightly defocus. I am surprised at the amount of colors you mentioned. Watching DVD I couldn't tell which colors I'm missing 😎
Ian
BodySuitMan
My picture size is about 6 feet wide. Big enough for me! The screen door effect is not very noticeable. If it bother you just slightly defocus. I am surprised at the amount of colors you mentioned. Watching DVD I couldn't tell which colors I'm missing 😎
Ian
- Status
- Not open for further replies.