Success to failure
My projector was working great until the image came out of focus. I checked the fresnel before the lcd the one used to take the light from the halogne lamp and magnify it is completely warped. It melted ughhh
I need a new light source give me suggestions.
Couldnt find those walmart LOA's.
My projector was working great until the image came out of focus. I checked the fresnel before the lcd the one used to take the light from the halogne lamp and magnify it is completely warped. It melted ughhh
I need a new light source give me suggestions.
Couldnt find those walmart LOA's.
Some thoughts on a DIY Projector
I have read this thread with amusement over the last 30 minutes or so. I am all for the DIYer, however, I think one of the early posts, that building a projector is difficult, like building a car, was probably pretty accurate. Heck, I could probably build a car too, but would I actually want to drive it? No, I am not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but I do have some thoughts that DIYers considering this may want to take some heed of:
COLOR TEMP: You need a high color temp (i.e. 5500K) or so in order to have good color if you are going to use a typical panel. You will have no control over the color filters, so you will need to match your light source.
HEAT: Halogens, and other red lights put out a ton of heat. If you don't keep that heat away from your LCD, you are going to heat it up and lose contrast ratio.
LIGHT EFFICIENCY: Matching color temp is important not only for good colors, but to get good efficiency. Use a lower color temp, and you will need to reduce your red and green output and drop your overall efficiency. It is also very important to look at what the photoptic efficiency is of your source. Xenon, HPS, Metal-Halide, etc. are much more efficient than Halogen, etc.
WOULDN'T WHITE LEDS BE GREAT!: No, they wouldn't be that great. For one, they create a somewhat artificial white. Take a look at the output curve of a blue LED with phosphor white LED and compare that to the spectrum of the filters used on your LCD panel, dichroic mirrors, etc. It is not pretty, and you probably have no control over either. We won't even get into the poor efficiency of white LEDS.
A BETTER WAY TO USE LEDS: It would be much simpler to use red, green, and blue leds individually. Color temp can be very good. If you have a high speed monochrome panel, you may be able to get away with only one, and a simpler optical system, by using sequential color, sort of like a single chip DLP projector.
LEDS WOULD BE GREAT, NO HEAT: Electrical Input Power - Optical Output Power = HEAT. With the current state of the art in LEDS, You would have far more heat with LEDS. They are not as efficient as the current state of the art in Xenon, HPS, CCFL, etc. However, if you use single color LEDS with no filter, there are some interesting trade-offs optically.
Just some thoughts from someone who has built a projector. It didn't take as many engineers as a car, but it is not easy.
I have read this thread with amusement over the last 30 minutes or so. I am all for the DIYer, however, I think one of the early posts, that building a projector is difficult, like building a car, was probably pretty accurate. Heck, I could probably build a car too, but would I actually want to drive it? No, I am not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but I do have some thoughts that DIYers considering this may want to take some heed of:
COLOR TEMP: You need a high color temp (i.e. 5500K) or so in order to have good color if you are going to use a typical panel. You will have no control over the color filters, so you will need to match your light source.
HEAT: Halogens, and other red lights put out a ton of heat. If you don't keep that heat away from your LCD, you are going to heat it up and lose contrast ratio.
LIGHT EFFICIENCY: Matching color temp is important not only for good colors, but to get good efficiency. Use a lower color temp, and you will need to reduce your red and green output and drop your overall efficiency. It is also very important to look at what the photoptic efficiency is of your source. Xenon, HPS, Metal-Halide, etc. are much more efficient than Halogen, etc.
WOULDN'T WHITE LEDS BE GREAT!: No, they wouldn't be that great. For one, they create a somewhat artificial white. Take a look at the output curve of a blue LED with phosphor white LED and compare that to the spectrum of the filters used on your LCD panel, dichroic mirrors, etc. It is not pretty, and you probably have no control over either. We won't even get into the poor efficiency of white LEDS.
A BETTER WAY TO USE LEDS: It would be much simpler to use red, green, and blue leds individually. Color temp can be very good. If you have a high speed monochrome panel, you may be able to get away with only one, and a simpler optical system, by using sequential color, sort of like a single chip DLP projector.
LEDS WOULD BE GREAT, NO HEAT: Electrical Input Power - Optical Output Power = HEAT. With the current state of the art in LEDS, You would have far more heat with LEDS. They are not as efficient as the current state of the art in Xenon, HPS, CCFL, etc. However, if you use single color LEDS with no filter, there are some interesting trade-offs optically.
Just some thoughts from someone who has built a projector. It didn't take as many engineers as a car, but it is not easy.
Man, talk about raining on my parade. First vdi_nenna quits and now this. I just don't think I can take it anymore 🙁
But seriously, how far did you read. the LED idea was dropped a few pages back. . .
The aims of this project varies from person to person. Some of us are just trying to make a cheap projector or a large TV not surpass commercial projectors.
But seriously, how far did you read. the LED idea was dropped a few pages back. . .
The aims of this project varies from person to person. Some of us are just trying to make a cheap projector or a large TV not surpass commercial projectors.
alvaius,
Great news to hear youv'e built one. Let us know what you used, and post some pic's! I agree it's probably difficult to build one that's small and bright like the "big boys" but the way it seams we're all doing it is not that hard. It depend on what you call difficult. Any usefull info. would be appreciated!
Great news to hear youv'e built one. Let us know what you used, and post some pic's! I agree it's probably difficult to build one that's small and bright like the "big boys" but the way it seams we're all doing it is not that hard. It depend on what you call difficult. Any usefull info. would be appreciated!
Any info on metal hid high intensity discharge (HID) lamps
Just want to know if they run hot and need alot cooling?
I am running halogen now and it literally melted my fresnel lens. So time for a new light source that sucker is WAYYYY to hot. Its crazy how hot that halogen lamp gets.
I was interested in .?
I was also looking for the flourex lights of america light but can find them at my walmart.
So tell me about those metal hid high intensity discharge (HID) lamps. And if they put out a lot of heat, and please suggest alternative light sources. Thanks!
Just want to know if they run hot and need alot cooling?
I am running halogen now and it literally melted my fresnel lens. So time for a new light source that sucker is WAYYYY to hot. Its crazy how hot that halogen lamp gets.
I was interested in .?
I was also looking for the flourex lights of america light but can find them at my walmart.
So tell me about those metal hid high intensity discharge (HID) lamps. And if they put out a lot of heat, and please suggest alternative light sources. Thanks!
16:9 optical addon
No need to chase a 16:9 LCD, these guys make an optical addon to project 16:9 images, take a look at
http://www.iscooptic.de/english/products/16_9video.htm
interesting.
No need to chase a 16:9 LCD, these guys make an optical addon to project 16:9 images, take a look at
http://www.iscooptic.de/english/products/16_9video.htm
interesting.
Re: Success to failure
BE GLAD YOU DIDN'T BURN THE HOUSE DOWN!!! Seriously.
BE GLAD YOU DIDN'T BURN THE HOUSE DOWN!!! Seriously.
skilzygw said:My projector was working great until the image came out of focus. I checked the fresnel before the lcd the one used to take the light from the halogne lamp and magnify it is completely warped. It melted ughhh
I need a new light source give me suggestions.
Couldnt find those walmart LOA's.
Yeah right that would suck. Well I will not be deterred. I will stuff 2 halogen if necessary,
Anyway what fans do you guys use for cooling? Do you use PC case fans or something else? Thanks!
Anyway what fans do you guys use for cooling? Do you use PC case fans or something else? Thanks!
Re: Any info on metal hid high intensity discharge (HID) lamps
I also believe that HID lamps are the way to go. I am currently using a EHJ quartz iodide projection bulb now, with 8000 to 10000 lumens (specs vary), colour temp 3400K. The colour temp seems ok actually, I get quite good colour reproduction in the projected image. However I do want to increase the brightness.
Likewise just about any light source we pick will need conduction cooling from fans etc. I have two fans in my current setup, a small CPU fan mounted directly over the bulb and a larger PC power supply fan sucking air through the enclosure. I am going to change the CPU fan to a larger diameter PC supply type as well.
By the way words of encouragement:
I have never built a car (yet), and I reckon my home built projector kicks ***. Its not commercial quality by a long shot, but its certainly good enough to enjoy a good movie on. When my mate with a digital camera gets back from his holiday in a week, expect some photos.
I also believe that HID lamps are the way to go. I am currently using a EHJ quartz iodide projection bulb now, with 8000 to 10000 lumens (specs vary), colour temp 3400K. The colour temp seems ok actually, I get quite good colour reproduction in the projected image. However I do want to increase the brightness.
I think that we will need to use some sort of heat filter material with just about ANY light source - except maybe the LOA. HID has quite a few advantages, size (smaller source), efficiency, colour temp, brightness. Even so, we will need to filter IR from the LCD using HID as well. The IR filters in slide projectors work exceptionally well, but they are only about 2" wide. If anyone has any cheap ideas for obtaining larger size filters of the same material, or something equivalent, lets hear em.skilzygw said:Just want to know if they run hot and need alot cooling?
I am running halogen now and it literally melted my fresnel lens. So time for a new light source that sucker is WAYYYY to hot. Its crazy how hot that halogen lamp gets.
So tell me about those metal hid high intensity discharge (HID) lamps. And if they put out a lot of heat, and please suggest alternative light sources. Thanks!
Likewise just about any light source we pick will need conduction cooling from fans etc. I have two fans in my current setup, a small CPU fan mounted directly over the bulb and a larger PC power supply fan sucking air through the enclosure. I am going to change the CPU fan to a larger diameter PC supply type as well.
By the way words of encouragement:
I have never built a car (yet), and I reckon my home built projector kicks ***. Its not commercial quality by a long shot, but its certainly good enough to enjoy a good movie on. When my mate with a digital camera gets back from his holiday in a week, expect some photos.
comprehensive instructions...yet?
Does anyone have a set of comprejensive instructions? Parts List?
Does anyone have a set of comprejensive instructions? Parts List?
Using Halogens, etc.
If you are melting your lens, you may want to consider a hot-mirror. This will reflect the heat back into the bulb, and away from your fresnel. You would need some sort of thermal decoupling from your panel and the light source. Fresnel lenses tend to be absorb a lot of light, especially in the IR, so if you keep the IR away from the lens, it should last much longer.
p.s. When you start looking at metal halide and other "blue" sources, I would consider a UV filter on the output of the bulb. Otherwise you may find that you start to yellow your plastic fresnel from the the UV output of the bulb.
If you are melting your lens, you may want to consider a hot-mirror. This will reflect the heat back into the bulb, and away from your fresnel. You would need some sort of thermal decoupling from your panel and the light source. Fresnel lenses tend to be absorb a lot of light, especially in the IR, so if you keep the IR away from the lens, it should last much longer.
p.s. When you start looking at metal halide and other "blue" sources, I would consider a UV filter on the output of the bulb. Otherwise you may find that you start to yellow your plastic fresnel from the the UV output of the bulb.
Source for some larger hot mirrors
For hot mirrors, I would check out Edmund Optics. You may be able to find somewhere cheaper, but I am not aware of it. You could scan the surplus shops, etc. They have a 4" * 5" mirror.
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=1492
For hot mirrors, I would check out Edmund Optics. You may be able to find somewhere cheaper, but I am not aware of it. You could scan the surplus shops, etc. They have a 4" * 5" mirror.
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=1492
Suggestions for light source
You may want to consider an array of Cold-Cathode flourescents. I have not worked out the optics, but you may be able to get creative. They are still going to put out heat, but a heck of a lot less than the halogens! They also have a better color temp. If you build your own inverter, then the cost may not be too bad. You will need a heck of a lot of them though! But heh, once it is working, you would probably just about never need to replace the bulbs if you used long-life ones. Keep in mind, they do degrade in terms of light output.
You may want to consider an array of Cold-Cathode flourescents. I have not worked out the optics, but you may be able to get creative. They are still going to put out heat, but a heck of a lot less than the halogens! They also have a better color temp. If you build your own inverter, then the cost may not be too bad. You will need a heck of a lot of them though! But heh, once it is working, you would probably just about never need to replace the bulbs if you used long-life ones. Keep in mind, they do degrade in terms of light output.
How do we get HID bulbs to work?
I want to try the metal halide bulb route but it is a much larger bulb. What does it screw into? Do they sell a lamp where on plugs in and into a wall socket?
Thanks! I dont know about wiring and lighting so i dont want to go and electricute myself.
I want to try the metal halide bulb route but it is a much larger bulb. What does it screw into? Do they sell a lamp where on plugs in and into a wall socket?
Thanks! I dont know about wiring and lighting so i dont want to go and electricute myself.
Grrrrrrr
I have been working on my projector, I have aligned the fresnel and all, the globe is 16500 lumens but it is not bright!? What the hell is going on, I expected there not to be a hint of concern about brightness, there are huge concerns! What could be wrong? It is a 650watt 240volt 16500 lumen globe that has a colour temp of 3200. Myren my globe is similar to yours, why your so bright? Do you have pics of the globe inside your projector? Also add a thermal fuse inside of your projectors people, a god send, I have one that shuts off at 90 degrees. If for example a fan were to stop it shuts the globe off. When I only had one fan running it cut the globe off after 10mins becuase it got to 90. Help me some please!?
I have been working on my projector, I have aligned the fresnel and all, the globe is 16500 lumens but it is not bright!? What the hell is going on, I expected there not to be a hint of concern about brightness, there are huge concerns! What could be wrong? It is a 650watt 240volt 16500 lumen globe that has a colour temp of 3200. Myren my globe is similar to yours, why your so bright? Do you have pics of the globe inside your projector? Also add a thermal fuse inside of your projectors people, a god send, I have one that shuts off at 90 degrees. If for example a fan were to stop it shuts the globe off. When I only had one fan running it cut the globe off after 10mins becuase it got to 90. Help me some please!?
Fiat1,
You might want to check out the most recent posts on the greenspun board. It sounds like someone over there is having a similar problem. Remind me...what LCD are you using? Good luck with that.
Ryans,
I don't think anyone has a website with comprehensive "instructions" yet, but there are a few good websites by some of the posters here. Some of these are:
Vince's webpage (vdi_nenna...the granddaddy of this project!)
dwalls website
tim's website
zark's website (with screenshots!)
b***h's website
I'm sure there are many others, so if you know of one, please post. I might try to put a website together with any links relevant to the project.
I just ordered some parts...I can't wait to give this thing a try! I'm still looking for a cheap 4" LCD, though....
-f4
You might want to check out the most recent posts on the greenspun board. It sounds like someone over there is having a similar problem. Remind me...what LCD are you using? Good luck with that.
Ryans,
I don't think anyone has a website with comprehensive "instructions" yet, but there are a few good websites by some of the posters here. Some of these are:
Vince's webpage (vdi_nenna...the granddaddy of this project!)
dwalls website
tim's website
zark's website (with screenshots!)
b***h's website
I'm sure there are many others, so if you know of one, please post. I might try to put a website together with any links relevant to the project.
I just ordered some parts...I can't wait to give this thing a try! I'm still looking for a cheap 4" LCD, though....
-f4
Fender4,
Parts Express has the best prices for 4" and 5" LCDs. But the leads to the LCD are short. You can get longer leads from digi-key. Use conductive epoxy and a magnifying glass to attach. Tricky stuf!!
Also try www.crystaloid.com I had to call around to find a distributor, but they had an interesting 1.8" 528X220 rez LCD. I always thought it was intreseting, but didn't go for it because of the lack of S-Video input or component input.
They have a 16:9, 7" LCD for $400. That would be the ultimate if it were hi rez.
Good luck!
Vince
* 1.8" high
* 180 Nit
* Pixel W x H = 528 x 220
* Operating Temp. 0 to 60* C
* Includes Driver Board
1 through 99 pieces = $125.00 ea.
Jeff W. Giles
Regional Sales Manager
Crystaloid Technologies Inc.
Ph 330 655 2429 x285
Fx 330 655 2176
e-mail jgiles@crystaloid.com
Parts Express has the best prices for 4" and 5" LCDs. But the leads to the LCD are short. You can get longer leads from digi-key. Use conductive epoxy and a magnifying glass to attach. Tricky stuf!!
Also try www.crystaloid.com I had to call around to find a distributor, but they had an interesting 1.8" 528X220 rez LCD. I always thought it was intreseting, but didn't go for it because of the lack of S-Video input or component input.
They have a 16:9, 7" LCD for $400. That would be the ultimate if it were hi rez.
Good luck!
Vince
* 1.8" high
* 180 Nit
* Pixel W x H = 528 x 220
* Operating Temp. 0 to 60* C
* Includes Driver Board
1 through 99 pieces = $125.00 ea.
Jeff W. Giles
Regional Sales Manager
Crystaloid Technologies Inc.
Ph 330 655 2429 x285
Fx 330 655 2176
e-mail jgiles@crystaloid.com
Uahh... I have had very unsuccesful session with my thing. I took the furniture apart and started converting it to the new design. Firstly I just don't have too much resources/skills for the wood work. Secondly I can't figure out how to do the focusing thing. It's basicly easy on paper but when I get on it.....
Zark, how do you focus your projector as your lens seems to be very much "hardcoded" to your box?
Worst thing is the cooling, I thought it would work fine this time, although I didn't have the bottom fan running but anyway... Now the fresnel gets really hot much faster than it used to, so I don't know what that is supposed to be about. Blah.
Zark, how do you focus your projector as your lens seems to be very much "hardcoded" to your box?
Worst thing is the cooling, I thought it would work fine this time, although I didn't have the bottom fan running but anyway... Now the fresnel gets really hot much faster than it used to, so I don't know what that is supposed to be about. Blah.
new website
Vince, thanks for the info. That looks like a nice LCD...I'll check into it.
Well, I jumped on the website bandwagon. I created a page that will hopefully one day contain info on my projector as it materializes.
In the meantime, it contains all of the links I have used to gather info on this project. There's lots more info out there, but this is what I have been using:
Fender4 DIY Video Projector links page
If it helps one person, then my job is done 😎. Thanks to everyone on this board for providing the ideas, direction, and links that I have included on the website! Let me know if anything should be added/removed. I will do my best to maintain it.
Good luck.
-f4
Vince, thanks for the info. That looks like a nice LCD...I'll check into it.
Well, I jumped on the website bandwagon. I created a page that will hopefully one day contain info on my projector as it materializes.
In the meantime, it contains all of the links I have used to gather info on this project. There's lots more info out there, but this is what I have been using:
Fender4 DIY Video Projector links page
If it helps one person, then my job is done 😎. Thanks to everyone on this board for providing the ideas, direction, and links that I have included on the website! Let me know if anything should be added/removed. I will do my best to maintain it.
Good luck.
-f4
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