whelp, I spent about an hour making my reflector. heres some shots
Here is the light from the 'fixture' on my ceiling
I routed out the curves on two pieces of wood, and slipped the aluminum into the slots, sandwiching it between the two pieces of wood. Screwed in some braces, and walla. Also, I clumsily cut the aluminum for two fans on the fixture with the same tool I used to cut the slots.
Fans are kinda just sitting there for show - eventually they will be mounted flush with the outer casing, with blowhole 'tunnels' to direct air straight to the holes in the aluminum.
Edit: Also, I'll be adding two more pieces of aluminum cut in "U" shapes to put at angles on each end of the bulb, so that my end reflector kinda looks like one of those halogen worklight reflectors - a flat piece of aluminum angled on all 4 sides of the fixture. I was kinda bummed about cutting into the aluminum, but, ohwell, i had to do it somewhere, I was really concerned about heat.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here is the light from the 'fixture' on my ceiling
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I routed out the curves on two pieces of wood, and slipped the aluminum into the slots, sandwiching it between the two pieces of wood. Screwed in some braces, and walla. Also, I clumsily cut the aluminum for two fans on the fixture with the same tool I used to cut the slots.
Fans are kinda just sitting there for show - eventually they will be mounted flush with the outer casing, with blowhole 'tunnels' to direct air straight to the holes in the aluminum.
Edit: Also, I'll be adding two more pieces of aluminum cut in "U" shapes to put at angles on each end of the bulb, so that my end reflector kinda looks like one of those halogen worklight reflectors - a flat piece of aluminum angled on all 4 sides of the fixture. I was kinda bummed about cutting into the aluminum, but, ohwell, i had to do it somewhere, I was really concerned about heat.
Re: You want to put a miniature camera in there too?
um, an SLR is a single lens reflex... meaning you look through the actual lens of the camera... so, you would be LOSING something if you obstruct the viewfinder. the point is that the "viewfinder" is perfectly accurate. and it seems liike you guys are gonna mod the body of the camera more than use it... why not just get a small project box at radioshack and mount a small mirror to it? why destroy an SLR camera? (even if it is broke)
-the voice of reason and logic.
SushiMasterX said:
um, an SLR is a single lens reflex... meaning you look through the actual lens of the camera... so, you would be LOSING something if you obstruct the viewfinder. the point is that the "viewfinder" is perfectly accurate. and it seems liike you guys are gonna mod the body of the camera more than use it... why not just get a small project box at radioshack and mount a small mirror to it? why destroy an SLR camera? (even if it is broke)
-the voice of reason and logic.
i applaud you undream. im still waiting on a quote for my 400W MH bulb/ballast. i want to get started on all this.
so from a rough estimate, you think thats enough good light to work out? its so impossible to tell from a picture of course, just wondering what your impressions were since you were there 🙂
think its gonna be a go?
so from a rough estimate, you think thats enough good light to work out? its so impossible to tell from a picture of course, just wondering what your impressions were since you were there 🙂
think its gonna be a go?
Various finds by noodles
Can someone tell me if they've had experience with these products? I'm on a VERY tight budget and I can't afford to experiment.
Apollo AI-1000 OHP
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1738868630
Gamevue PSone LCD
http://shop3.outpost.com/product/3137660
Those are EXTREMELY great prices, but I'm afraid to buy the LCD because of the PCB problems people have been talking about.
Can someone tell me if they've had experience with these products? I'm on a VERY tight budget and I can't afford to experiment.
Apollo AI-1000 OHP
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1738868630
Gamevue PSone LCD
http://shop3.outpost.com/product/3137660
Those are EXTREMELY great prices, but I'm afraid to buy the LCD because of the PCB problems people have been talking about.
Cowan, the SLR part is not utilized at all.
I think eebassist has a clever idea for small panel projection and deserves some smiley's. 😀
This way you can utilize the body, camera zoom lens mounts and tripod mounts on the zillion or so busted camera's out there and their lens's too! Their bodies are usually built pretty rugged too.
Go to a camera/pawn shop and they probably would give you one, if not dirt cheap.
What's great is that it has a relatively easy place to mount the lcd and the C-mount is stable for projection and very heat resistant. And, you can use almost any 35mm lens out there. Also, underneath, there is a tripod mount. Almost everything you could want for a DIY small panel projector.
Only thing you would need to work on is a suitable housing to attach to the rear, with lamp and power supply and vid input's.
Come on over to the small panel thread and we can talk with eebassist about how he might use it that way.🙂
I think eebassist has a clever idea for small panel projection and deserves some smiley's. 😀
This way you can utilize the body, camera zoom lens mounts and tripod mounts on the zillion or so busted camera's out there and their lens's too! Their bodies are usually built pretty rugged too.
Go to a camera/pawn shop and they probably would give you one, if not dirt cheap.
What's great is that it has a relatively easy place to mount the lcd and the C-mount is stable for projection and very heat resistant. And, you can use almost any 35mm lens out there. Also, underneath, there is a tripod mount. Almost everything you could want for a DIY small panel projector.
Only thing you would need to work on is a suitable housing to attach to the rear, with lamp and power supply and vid input's.
Come on over to the small panel thread and we can talk with eebassist about how he might use it that way.🙂
you guys dont really know how an SLR works do ya?
you would still need to gut the whole thing. PLUS, the aperture of an SLR is typically, YOU GUESSED IT, 35mm... meaning, there is an opening of 35MM (1.75"). you would have to widen this opening, plus, the shutter assembly would have to be gutten, etc, etc, etc.
plus, lenses arent cheap for cameras. i have a couple SLR's, and even a cheap standard lens will cost $50. and they are made to ACCEPT images, not project them.
you would still need to gut the whole thing. PLUS, the aperture of an SLR is typically, YOU GUESSED IT, 35mm... meaning, there is an opening of 35MM (1.75"). you would have to widen this opening, plus, the shutter assembly would have to be gutten, etc, etc, etc.
plus, lenses arent cheap for cameras. i have a couple SLR's, and even a cheap standard lens will cost $50. and they are made to ACCEPT images, not project them.
cowanrg: It was a go before I even started making a reflector. This is just going to make it better.
hehe.
well, it looks like im gonna stick with my spectra c, the Z350 is just too big. it looks great, but the benefit isnt that great, since its much bigger than my tiny spectra c, and i need the money. it will be listed on ebay today if anyone wants a perfect condition NView Z350, with case, all cables, remote, etc.
well, it looks like im gonna stick with my spectra c, the Z350 is just too big. it looks great, but the benefit isnt that great, since its much bigger than my tiny spectra c, and i need the money. it will be listed on ebay today if anyone wants a perfect condition NView Z350, with case, all cables, remote, etc.
Oh, ho-ho! I know plenty!
First, I want to use a .7" panel. That'll fit fine.
All you have to do is super glue the mirror hinge out of the way, too. No gutting req'd. You could use non-SLR camera's as well, if this seemed bothersome.
That's correct about expensive modern lenses being more light accepting though. They help keep glare down and shape the incoming light. However, the pawn shop cheapie's don't employ that much, they're just cheap lenses. Not leaning this way or that, just neutral.
Even if they are, it's not a critical thing. And, some may actually improve contrast and light transmission to make the picture look better, for a lumens loss of ~5-10%. And, you can find one's that don't impede as much as another, if at all, if you prefer. Some modern one's just coat the first outer lens, you could clean that off pretty easily with readily available chemicals, if you felt it was bothersome. Most coatings weren't common until the 80's. The newer one's use UV coating's too. I wouldn't mind that.
Everyday plain-vanilla lenses, if not all, 'lying around' lenses are fine for shooting light back through. They're really just the same as a slide projector lens. In fact with the multitude of mounts available for slide projector lenses, it would be wiser (if making your own box) to go with a 35mm lens, bayonet or C-mount type, because they are standardized and easier finds.
(That's if you're considering the small panel approach)
For all:
Here's an interesting summary pdf that explain's many large corporation's technique's/experiments along with their conclusion's and some supporting data summised by a university lab for a National lcd research group.
State of things in LCD projection Feb 2000 PDF 80k
They have been assisted by large (IBM, InFocus, Viewsonic)corporation's to advance the state of lcd projection. Including lamp type's, filters, polarizers and lcd types. It may help us with limited funds to explore new routes, as well as realize some that haven't worked for reasons disclosed.🙂
First, I want to use a .7" panel. That'll fit fine.
All you have to do is super glue the mirror hinge out of the way, too. No gutting req'd. You could use non-SLR camera's as well, if this seemed bothersome.
That's correct about expensive modern lenses being more light accepting though. They help keep glare down and shape the incoming light. However, the pawn shop cheapie's don't employ that much, they're just cheap lenses. Not leaning this way or that, just neutral.
Even if they are, it's not a critical thing. And, some may actually improve contrast and light transmission to make the picture look better, for a lumens loss of ~5-10%. And, you can find one's that don't impede as much as another, if at all, if you prefer. Some modern one's just coat the first outer lens, you could clean that off pretty easily with readily available chemicals, if you felt it was bothersome. Most coatings weren't common until the 80's. The newer one's use UV coating's too. I wouldn't mind that.
Everyday plain-vanilla lenses, if not all, 'lying around' lenses are fine for shooting light back through. They're really just the same as a slide projector lens. In fact with the multitude of mounts available for slide projector lenses, it would be wiser (if making your own box) to go with a 35mm lens, bayonet or C-mount type, because they are standardized and easier finds.
(That's if you're considering the small panel approach)
For all:
Here's an interesting summary pdf that explain's many large corporation's technique's/experiments along with their conclusion's and some supporting data summised by a university lab for a National lcd research group.
State of things in LCD projection Feb 2000 PDF 80k
They have been assisted by large (IBM, InFocus, Viewsonic)corporation's to advance the state of lcd projection. Including lamp type's, filters, polarizers and lcd types. It may help us with limited funds to explore new routes, as well as realize some that haven't worked for reasons disclosed.🙂
I'm finally getting to the stage of not being satisfied just watching movies and am ready to make this thing work better. It seems to me that the fresnel 'sandwich' in the OHP not only collects and focuses light, but disperses it to some degree. Also, it collects the light into a significantly larger area than is required for a projection panel(14" diag whereas panel is<10"). I am going to attempt to use a small, short throw PCX lens to 'project' the light from the bulb onto a single, smaller(than the OHP) sized fresnel which should make more efficient use of light. This should also make for a more compact finished product. I'd really like to stick with the smaller projection bulbs if I Can. Haven't found the right lens yet, but I'm sure I will find something better than the frensnel which semms to be f=14". I'm using ENX bulbs, brightness is good but could be better. I think I'm going to try FXL(50 more watts, same bulb style). Anyone tried this? I'd appreciate any input.
P.S. I got A great deal on some ENX bulbs. I'll sell them for 10 bucks each, including shipping in the cont. US. send email if interested.
P.S. I got A great deal on some ENX bulbs. I'll sell them for 10 bucks each, including shipping in the cont. US. send email if interested.
icculus ENX, I use the ELH
How many hours can you get from an ENX?
Do you let the fan cool it off before you shut the power off?
I use the ELH and can get about 30-35 hours if I let it cool before shutting off. Somewhat less than 30 if I don't. Probably depends on the manufacture. I usually use Sylvannia's for ~12-15$ a pop.
Maybe the ELH is a whiter, even source. I'd like to switch to something else that's 110V and last's longer.
How many hours can you get from an ENX?
Do you let the fan cool it off before you shut the power off?
I use the ELH and can get about 30-35 hours if I let it cool before shutting off. Somewhat less than 30 if I don't. Probably depends on the manufacture. I usually use Sylvannia's for ~12-15$ a pop.
Maybe the ELH is a whiter, even source. I'd like to switch to something else that's 110V and last's longer.
i have an ENX bulb, and i have about 100+ hours on it. its supposed to last around 275 i think. it lasts at least 100 though 🙂 and for $10 each, its a nice bulb.
and as far as letting it cool and all that, i sure as hell dont. i just turn the thing off, fan goes off, and thats all, i dont baby it at all.
and as far as letting it cool and all that, i sure as hell dont. i just turn the thing off, fan goes off, and thats all, i dont baby it at all.
What does ENX stand for?
I thought ELH stood for Even Light Halide. But, maybe it's ludicrous.
Do you use that in a multicolored projection or just for B/W laminates?
Do you feel the ENX is inferior for video projection? Is it a big difference really? I'm not that critical with the kelvin evenness. Just want to stretch my dollar. Get tired of changing those bulbs after 30 hours. But, have to find a 110V bulb for an even change-out, without adding another transformer to down the voltage. Although, that's not too difficult.
I just haven't had any experience with the other bulb types. But, after 2 years working AV for the Uni, I feel that OHP bulbs are a little warmer than SP bulbs (Do you concur?). But, not enough to bother me getting 4 x's more life and saving $60 too!
I thought ELH stood for Even Light Halide. But, maybe it's ludicrous.
Do you use that in a multicolored projection or just for B/W laminates?
Do you feel the ENX is inferior for video projection? Is it a big difference really? I'm not that critical with the kelvin evenness. Just want to stretch my dollar. Get tired of changing those bulbs after 30 hours. But, have to find a 110V bulb for an even change-out, without adding another transformer to down the voltage. Although, that's not too difficult.
I just haven't had any experience with the other bulb types. But, after 2 years working AV for the Uni, I feel that OHP bulbs are a little warmer than SP bulbs (Do you concur?). But, not enough to bother me getting 4 x's more life and saving $60 too!
Thanks gav!
Those boxes are SOOO old! They might still be good and the vacuum's not disturbed, though. Look at that ladies haircut! Damn that's popular again! ha-ha!
Looks like somebody in Mad Max Thunderdome woulda found those after the "'pocy-clypse", trying to sell them in "Bartertown"! Ha-ha! "2 men enter, 1 man leave's!" ha-ha
Thanks gav! Wattage isn't important, or blood on the highway. It's the laughter that count's, right!?!
Those boxes are SOOO old! They might still be good and the vacuum's not disturbed, though. Look at that ladies haircut! Damn that's popular again! ha-ha!
Looks like somebody in Mad Max Thunderdome woulda found those after the "'pocy-clypse", trying to sell them in "Bartertown"! Ha-ha! "2 men enter, 1 man leave's!" ha-ha
Thanks gav! Wattage isn't important, or blood on the highway. It's the laughter that count's, right!?!
hehe
hey, thats my mum!! hehe i suppose if u could find out what voltage 2 run em on, and bought 4 or 5 and stuck them really close 2gether, you might get something (correct me if i'm wrong) downside is if they blow you'll need a time machine to find some others 🙂
BTW sushiman, thats how we select our prime minister over here (2 man in 1 man out).....it beats recounting votes 5000 times 😉
hey, thats my mum!! hehe i suppose if u could find out what voltage 2 run em on, and bought 4 or 5 and stuck them really close 2gether, you might get something (correct me if i'm wrong) downside is if they blow you'll need a time machine to find some others 🙂
BTW sushiman, thats how we select our prime minister over here (2 man in 1 man out).....it beats recounting votes 5000 times 😉
No, sheeee...
Do they usually go for the mallet or the chainsaw?
Damn, I'm gonna watch the 2nd one tonight, that's a killer movie. I want that Ford! Wish I had a widescreen dVd and my 'mini-projector' working though.
In the roar of an engine, he lost everything....😎
Do they usually go for the mallet or the chainsaw?
Damn, I'm gonna watch the 2nd one tonight, that's a killer movie. I want that Ford! Wish I had a widescreen dVd and my 'mini-projector' working though.
In the roar of an engine, he lost everything....😎
screw you guys I'm going home
Ok, yes i know what is in an slr......i'be been a BW hobbyiest for 13 years and have had numerous SLR's during that time.....I propose to gut out one completely......yes the stage is 35mm.....yes the mirror must be gutted......but this provides a perfect low cost lens source. It will be cheap.....you can get a old pentax k1000 or similar in non working condition for like 5 bucks hell even on ebay.....the lenses are dirt cheap on ebay as well....just get yourself a decent range zoom lens...... I think i'll acutally do this if anyone can point me in the direction of a decent lcd source.......speaking of that.....what about the lcd viewfinders on digital cameras....there's a lot of them out there........i really want to use a HTPC, i'm not going for composite/svhs inputs.....really want vga inputs
Ok, yes i know what is in an slr......i'be been a BW hobbyiest for 13 years and have had numerous SLR's during that time.....I propose to gut out one completely......yes the stage is 35mm.....yes the mirror must be gutted......but this provides a perfect low cost lens source. It will be cheap.....you can get a old pentax k1000 or similar in non working condition for like 5 bucks hell even on ebay.....the lenses are dirt cheap on ebay as well....just get yourself a decent range zoom lens...... I think i'll acutally do this if anyone can point me in the direction of a decent lcd source.......speaking of that.....what about the lcd viewfinders on digital cameras....there's a lot of them out there........i really want to use a HTPC, i'm not going for composite/svhs inputs.....really want vga inputs
well, first off, i answered your question about digital camera lcd's in the other post, about small panels.
now, logic has to come into play here. great idea, i actually like this one... HOWEVER, where the hell you gonna find a 35mm (1.75") lcd panel? pretty easy to find one in itself, but now you are saying you want it to be VGA compatible? you ever seen a video card that can display under 640x480? how you gonna display 487x234? if there WAS a panel compatible for the project, i think it just might work. however, a light source could be difficult becuase the massive heat. with a large (7" across) panel, think how much heat and surface area it can hold.... if we take even half that heat into a smaller panel, it becasue 4 fold. (area of squares...) example...
let's say 'x' is the heat... (dependant on light output.)
so, if we have 50 units of light, and it generates 50x heat... a 5" x 7" panel has 35 square inches of area to dissipitate the heat. so, at 50 units of heat, which is roughly 1.4 units of heat per square inch.
now, same thing. we put 50 units of light, generating same amount of heat through a 1.75" across square. (comes out to be like 1.14" x 1.5"), so area is 1.7". now, if we put that same amount of light into this area, we get 29.4 units of heat per square inch. wow....
now, imagine cooling something that is already pretty hot, now its like 25 TIMES as hot? it seems good until you break it down.
now, logic has to come into play here. great idea, i actually like this one... HOWEVER, where the hell you gonna find a 35mm (1.75") lcd panel? pretty easy to find one in itself, but now you are saying you want it to be VGA compatible? you ever seen a video card that can display under 640x480? how you gonna display 487x234? if there WAS a panel compatible for the project, i think it just might work. however, a light source could be difficult becuase the massive heat. with a large (7" across) panel, think how much heat and surface area it can hold.... if we take even half that heat into a smaller panel, it becasue 4 fold. (area of squares...) example...
let's say 'x' is the heat... (dependant on light output.)
so, if we have 50 units of light, and it generates 50x heat... a 5" x 7" panel has 35 square inches of area to dissipitate the heat. so, at 50 units of heat, which is roughly 1.4 units of heat per square inch.
now, same thing. we put 50 units of light, generating same amount of heat through a 1.75" across square. (comes out to be like 1.14" x 1.5"), so area is 1.7". now, if we put that same amount of light into this area, we get 29.4 units of heat per square inch. wow....
now, imagine cooling something that is already pretty hot, now its like 25 TIMES as hot? it seems good until you break it down.
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