I am back
Guys, sorry i gave up last july, but do not get me wrong, i spent all my savings on Dukane 680 and sharp QA-2500 and got very crappy results. as a matter of fact, people with $30 panels got a better picture than me, and i payed $270 for my prohection panel...
now, since my brother moved out, i hva a huge room downstairs that begs to be turned into a movie theater.
i read the whole forum over again just to be up to date, and ordered some essential items already. the only problem that i am facing now is if i should go the 15" monitor way or buy some LCD and a controller. my monitor has 400:1 contrast ratio, and getting an XGA 10" or less LCD with such contrast it tough and expensive. if any of you have any idea on which LCD i should use, i would be glad for any input.
ACE has astonished me with his setup, it sure looks pretty, but man, where are the pics of a projected image?
good luck all
P.S. i'll try to be of most help i can be....
Guys, sorry i gave up last july, but do not get me wrong, i spent all my savings on Dukane 680 and sharp QA-2500 and got very crappy results. as a matter of fact, people with $30 panels got a better picture than me, and i payed $270 for my prohection panel...
now, since my brother moved out, i hva a huge room downstairs that begs to be turned into a movie theater.
i read the whole forum over again just to be up to date, and ordered some essential items already. the only problem that i am facing now is if i should go the 15" monitor way or buy some LCD and a controller. my monitor has 400:1 contrast ratio, and getting an XGA 10" or less LCD with such contrast it tough and expensive. if any of you have any idea on which LCD i should use, i would be glad for any input.
ACE has astonished me with his setup, it sure looks pretty, but man, where are the pics of a projected image?
good luck all
P.S. i'll try to be of most help i can be....
projctr builder
heya bud good see u are back although we have never met, always good to get one of the older guys back in here, ok i havnt posted any pics basically cos of 2 reasons, 1 i havnt got my mh yet and 2 i need a wall without other crap like pictures on it first to make a pic lol ill get a resault pic out soon so dont strees all another reason is i havnt tried my cam on it yet im not sure if my cam will take it as ive only a benq dc1300 camera and its dark without a flash on other things so i havnt bothed with a pic of the projected resaults yet lol but ill try soon
Trev
heya bud good see u are back although we have never met, always good to get one of the older guys back in here, ok i havnt posted any pics basically cos of 2 reasons, 1 i havnt got my mh yet and 2 i need a wall without other crap like pictures on it first to make a pic lol ill get a resault pic out soon so dont strees all another reason is i havnt tried my cam on it yet im not sure if my cam will take it as ive only a benq dc1300 camera and its dark without a flash on other things so i havnt bothed with a pic of the projected resaults yet lol but ill try soon
Trev
keep it up
ACE,
your projector is hella tight. When i first took a look at it, i thought it was a remake of one of those INFOCUS projectors, with an objective on the side. but after i learned that you built the whole thing from scratch, i was like whaaaaaaaaaaaaa.
could you tell me what kind of LCD you are using in your setup? the specs of that thing would help a lot. primarily the contrast ratio.
also, just a thought, your LCD seems to be awefully close to the bulb. aren't you afraid to fry you LCD? i know that once you put it an MH bulb, it will generate a lotta heat...
good luck all....
ACE,
your projector is hella tight. When i first took a look at it, i thought it was a remake of one of those INFOCUS projectors, with an objective on the side. but after i learned that you built the whole thing from scratch, i was like whaaaaaaaaaaaaa.
could you tell me what kind of LCD you are using in your setup? the specs of that thing would help a lot. primarily the contrast ratio.
also, just a thought, your LCD seems to be awefully close to the bulb. aren't you afraid to fry you LCD? i know that once you put it an MH bulb, it will generate a lotta heat...
good luck all....
prjctr builder
heya there well ill start off with the lcd lol its just a 960x240 tv lcd thats probally got the contrast of 80:1 if that but its my first project and i had to start with somthing right? lol
ok the light i have in it is a halogena thats the name of the bulb and it is halogen it puts out 2550lm at the bulb.
Now the projector puts out between 250-300lm ansi at about 60-80inches although i can fully watch it still at 120inches probally about 200lm at 100 inches
Now with the light being so close, funny enough the lcd just gets warm i beleive i have eliminated alot of heat buy making the light box enclosed and also having fans blow the hot air away from the bulb, that idea is to cool down the source of the heat and it seams to work well. I have a magnifying glass as a light magnifier before the frensel and also acts as a condenser that funny enough is better at speading the light over the lcd than a 2inch condenser setup properly.
Soon ill have a new projector built this one is not very big even smaller than a infocus lp220! i found out the otherday mines 2.5cm lower on the hight and about 1cm smaller all around so i spun out at that. Im getting a new lcd soon and that will go into my new one that will have a 250w hqi behind it and the lcd will be a 6.4inch 800x600 native takes upto 1024x768 and contrast is 200:1 i cant wait for that little baby lol also on my new list of designing and building is a duel bulb projector that will beam out 4000lm ansi pluss i cant wiat for that to take place either lol I dont know if u have seen it or not but im selling a copy of cad plans for my projector printed out on quality a3 size paper, anyway if u want to know more about my projector dont be afraid to ask
Happy diy
Trev
heya there well ill start off with the lcd lol its just a 960x240 tv lcd thats probally got the contrast of 80:1 if that but its my first project and i had to start with somthing right? lol
ok the light i have in it is a halogena thats the name of the bulb and it is halogen it puts out 2550lm at the bulb.
Now the projector puts out between 250-300lm ansi at about 60-80inches although i can fully watch it still at 120inches probally about 200lm at 100 inches
Now with the light being so close, funny enough the lcd just gets warm i beleive i have eliminated alot of heat buy making the light box enclosed and also having fans blow the hot air away from the bulb, that idea is to cool down the source of the heat and it seams to work well. I have a magnifying glass as a light magnifier before the frensel and also acts as a condenser that funny enough is better at speading the light over the lcd than a 2inch condenser setup properly.
Soon ill have a new projector built this one is not very big even smaller than a infocus lp220! i found out the otherday mines 2.5cm lower on the hight and about 1cm smaller all around so i spun out at that. Im getting a new lcd soon and that will go into my new one that will have a 250w hqi behind it and the lcd will be a 6.4inch 800x600 native takes upto 1024x768 and contrast is 200:1 i cant wait for that little baby lol also on my new list of designing and building is a duel bulb projector that will beam out 4000lm ansi pluss i cant wiat for that to take place either lol I dont know if u have seen it or not but im selling a copy of cad plans for my projector printed out on quality a3 size paper, anyway if u want to know more about my projector dont be afraid to ask
Happy diy
Trev
sick....
damn dude, you rock!!!
what is the LCD that you are planning to get? maybe i should consider those car LCD's? you can get a decent one for around $200-$250 and the best thing is that they come with a composite input 🙂 . that eleminates the need of buying a controller board, and since my video card has VGA, composite and S-Video outs, it would be PURFECT for me!!! would it not? the sad thing is that sellers seldom know the contrast ratios of the LCD's they are selling🙁 .
anyways, if it is not a secret, please let me know what LCD you were talking about (the one that you are planning to get). If it has 200:1 contrast, i think it would work, because i had a top of the line SHARP qa-2500 with 150:1 contrast, and contrast was pretty good, it is the colors i did not really like.....
get back tome me.... good luck...
😎
damn dude, you rock!!!
what is the LCD that you are planning to get? maybe i should consider those car LCD's? you can get a decent one for around $200-$250 and the best thing is that they come with a composite input 🙂 . that eleminates the need of buying a controller board, and since my video card has VGA, composite and S-Video outs, it would be PURFECT for me!!! would it not? the sad thing is that sellers seldom know the contrast ratios of the LCD's they are selling🙁 .
anyways, if it is not a secret, please let me know what LCD you were talking about (the one that you are planning to get). If it has 200:1 contrast, i think it would work, because i had a top of the line SHARP qa-2500 with 150:1 contrast, and contrast was pretty good, it is the colors i did not really like.....
get back tome me.... good luck...
😎
Question....
Could you guys tell me how much light (in lumens) an average single ended 200W MH bulb produces? and do they have a nice color to them?
thanks
Could you guys tell me how much light (in lumens) an average single ended 200W MH bulb produces? and do they have a nice color to them?
thanks
Hellow DIY Forum!
Wow... it's been a long time since i've been here... but now i finished my -new- plans (changed them only a zillion times) and i'll start building in a week or 2 when i finally have my MH.
I've read a LOTTA posts here on this forum but one thing still puzzles me: what is the greatest advantage of an MH? is it the low heat output or the extra brightness it delivers? (well the heat thing i kinda read about that but im still not 100% sure if it will be a LOT cooler😉 )
I tested my setup with a 500Watt halogen light with a REALLY strong fan blowing on it, but still: my lcd screen seemed like it was gonna melt if i kept the lamp on longer than 5 minutes...
Would a 400Watt MH give me more or less brightness than the 500W Halogen? Or should i buy a 575Watt? Or... would 250 be enough (note: my lcd is rather dark due to its transflective nature 🙁 )
Another thing: now that i finished my rough sketches for the zillionth time i am thinking of redesigning the whole thing -again- upside down, because now the lamp would be on the bottom (which is kinda dumb if i want my PJ to be as cool as possible)
I want the lamp on the top or at least not under my lcd... -sigh- BUT i really dont want any mirrors in my setup because i dont have a clue where to get those special top-coated mirror tiles...
Anyway... I'm back and i will check this place every once in a while 🙂
yay😎
Wow... it's been a long time since i've been here... but now i finished my -new- plans (changed them only a zillion times) and i'll start building in a week or 2 when i finally have my MH.
I've read a LOTTA posts here on this forum but one thing still puzzles me: what is the greatest advantage of an MH? is it the low heat output or the extra brightness it delivers? (well the heat thing i kinda read about that but im still not 100% sure if it will be a LOT cooler😉 )
I tested my setup with a 500Watt halogen light with a REALLY strong fan blowing on it, but still: my lcd screen seemed like it was gonna melt if i kept the lamp on longer than 5 minutes...
Would a 400Watt MH give me more or less brightness than the 500W Halogen? Or should i buy a 575Watt? Or... would 250 be enough (note: my lcd is rather dark due to its transflective nature 🙁 )
Another thing: now that i finished my rough sketches for the zillionth time i am thinking of redesigning the whole thing -again- upside down, because now the lamp would be on the bottom (which is kinda dumb if i want my PJ to be as cool as possible)
I want the lamp on the top or at least not under my lcd... -sigh- BUT i really dont want any mirrors in my setup because i dont have a clue where to get those special top-coated mirror tiles...
Anyway... I'm back and i will check this place every once in a while 🙂
yay😎
oh another post for lumen-hungry DIY'ers:
Do you know those enormous sky seeking lights? Those giants that can light up the clouds?
Well... the pyramid-shaped Luxor hotel in Las Vegas has 39 of those on top of the pyramid. They're 7000Watt Xenon-lights. Thats makes a total of 273000Watts!
It's such a powerfull beam, pilots are warned during 30 seconds before the light goes on by a flashing light. You could read a book at 16kilometers altitude.
Just -imagine- what kind of a projector -that- would make
😎 All you'd need is a couple of huge-*** fressnells and a giant LCD but still... WOW! watching a movie with sunglasses on and probably getting a tan of all the UV radiation 😉
Do you know those enormous sky seeking lights? Those giants that can light up the clouds?
Well... the pyramid-shaped Luxor hotel in Las Vegas has 39 of those on top of the pyramid. They're 7000Watt Xenon-lights. Thats makes a total of 273000Watts!
It's such a powerfull beam, pilots are warned during 30 seconds before the light goes on by a flashing light. You could read a book at 16kilometers altitude.
Just -imagine- what kind of a projector -that- would make
😎 All you'd need is a couple of huge-*** fressnells and a giant LCD but still... WOW! watching a movie with sunglasses on and probably getting a tan of all the UV radiation 😉
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
prjctr builder
heya bud hows it? i see no one wants to talk to u lol ive been to busy to come here the weekend so thats my excuse lol ok with a 250w mh if u go to diy.org they have a kit that i wouldnt say is too cheap but its got all in the kit if u dont want to hunt around for parts, it puts out about 20000lm and the colour temp is 4200k they are about 150us$ this is the link:
http://people.eecs.ku.edu/~astaples/projector/parts.htm
Trev
heya bud hows it? i see no one wants to talk to u lol ive been to busy to come here the weekend so thats my excuse lol ok with a 250w mh if u go to diy.org they have a kit that i wouldnt say is too cheap but its got all in the kit if u dont want to hunt around for parts, it puts out about 20000lm and the colour temp is 4200k they are about 150us$ this is the link:
http://people.eecs.ku.edu/~astaples/projector/parts.htm
Trev
prjctr builder
hey sorry i forgot the lcd im going to use is coming from another projector i plan on pulling that one apart and retrofitting it into my new box that way i got a nice new projector box and a cheap light source to run it to boot! lol
Trev
hey sorry i forgot the lcd im going to use is coming from another projector i plan on pulling that one apart and retrofitting it into my new box that way i got a nice new projector box and a cheap light source to run it to boot! lol
Trev
ACE
thanks for the link to the fresnels. those are the exact type fresnels i was looking for. but i keepwondering, why is it that a larger lens on that website is also the cheaper one, shouldn't it be the other way around?
i looked at the Ballast/Bulb kit, and they seems to have very nice specs and all, but man, $160USD to pay for a ligthsource?!?!? that is rather expensive for a DIY lightsource, especially a 250W one.
also, what is the optimal color temperature that woudl work best in the projector?
tell me if you know a good place to get a MH lightsource, preferably 20000-30000 lumens.
the good thing about the bulb on the website is that it is pretty small, compared to others, and i could completely cover one wide of it with a 5" condenser lens that i am about to get.
the thing tha worries me the most though is if i am going to have hotspots on my screen. if i am going to go with a small ligt bulb and a 15" lcd screen (350:1 contrast), i might have uneven destribution of light on a panel, that makes picking THE RIGHT condenser lens and setting the fresnel THE EXACT distance from the lightsource imperative. omg...🙁
so many key factors not to overlook... i hope it'll pay off in the end, after all i already took apart a $300 LCD panel...
get back to me, ACE...
good luck😉
thanks for the link to the fresnels. those are the exact type fresnels i was looking for. but i keepwondering, why is it that a larger lens on that website is also the cheaper one, shouldn't it be the other way around?
i looked at the Ballast/Bulb kit, and they seems to have very nice specs and all, but man, $160USD to pay for a ligthsource?!?!? that is rather expensive for a DIY lightsource, especially a 250W one.
also, what is the optimal color temperature that woudl work best in the projector?
tell me if you know a good place to get a MH lightsource, preferably 20000-30000 lumens.
the good thing about the bulb on the website is that it is pretty small, compared to others, and i could completely cover one wide of it with a 5" condenser lens that i am about to get.
the thing tha worries me the most though is if i am going to have hotspots on my screen. if i am going to go with a small ligt bulb and a 15" lcd screen (350:1 contrast), i might have uneven destribution of light on a panel, that makes picking THE RIGHT condenser lens and setting the fresnel THE EXACT distance from the lightsource imperative. omg...🙁
so many key factors not to overlook... i hope it'll pay off in the end, after all i already took apart a $300 LCD panel...
get back to me, ACE...
good luck😉
prjctr builder
lol the frensels i dont have a clue about in that site i dont charge the prices lol, the bulb price isnt too bad the kit i meant but the bulb is a good price, u can do it cheaper if u go with a magnetic ballast they are not electronic and i dont know where to get one from in the usa as im in spain lol, the best colour temp readyly available is the 4200k colour, thats nice and white and bright and as i said redily available, u can go to 6000k ive been told weather that is too blue or not im not sure but i think it would be ok.
Now with your condenser dont worry about the hotspots that u will or can get out off from the reflector, my experience shows me that the main cause of the hotspots is the reflector not the condensor unless the condenser is damaged or some odd shape that tends to light one part more than the other causing the hot spots, i made a designed a reflector that u can council out the hotspots and is about 90% efficent made out of mirrorised alloy it works great once u tune it and that can be done in about 15mins if u are good , thats counting the light on and off times too.
Trev
lol the frensels i dont have a clue about in that site i dont charge the prices lol, the bulb price isnt too bad the kit i meant but the bulb is a good price, u can do it cheaper if u go with a magnetic ballast they are not electronic and i dont know where to get one from in the usa as im in spain lol, the best colour temp readyly available is the 4200k colour, thats nice and white and bright and as i said redily available, u can go to 6000k ive been told weather that is too blue or not im not sure but i think it would be ok.
Now with your condenser dont worry about the hotspots that u will or can get out off from the reflector, my experience shows me that the main cause of the hotspots is the reflector not the condensor unless the condenser is damaged or some odd shape that tends to light one part more than the other causing the hot spots, i made a designed a reflector that u can council out the hotspots and is about 90% efficent made out of mirrorised alloy it works great once u tune it and that can be done in about 15mins if u are good , thats counting the light on and off times too.
Trev
ace
i have just purchased a 250W ballast and 250W MH bulb on ebay. it cost me $60 total, and i think that it is kinda better than paying $160 for a system. i think the bulb has 4000K...
will giv you the links to auctions later...
thanks... good luck🙂
i have just purchased a 250W ballast and 250W MH bulb on ebay. it cost me $60 total, and i think that it is kinda better than paying $160 for a system. i think the bulb has 4000K...
will giv you the links to auctions later...
thanks... good luck🙂
prjctr builder
ahh great deal u got i wish u could have told me about it lol but then again different voltage here so i probally wouldnt have been able to use it, cant wait to see the link
Trev
ahh great deal u got i wish u could have told me about it lol but then again different voltage here so i probally wouldnt have been able to use it, cant wait to see the link
Trev
ther you go
MY BULB
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2540947213&category=42883&rd=1
MY "BALLAST"
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2539443907&category=26219&rd=1
that thing is kinda big, but, i will take off the bow around the ballast and it will make it about 2 times smaller. plus i will extend the socket wires so that the socket will not be attached to ballast... ya...
good luck all
tell me that you think...
MY BULB
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2540947213&category=42883&rd=1
MY "BALLAST"
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2539443907&category=26219&rd=1
that thing is kinda big, but, i will take off the bow around the ballast and it will make it about 2 times smaller. plus i will extend the socket wires so that the socket will not be attached to ballast... ya...
good luck all
tell me that you think...
why does it make a difference?
Additional Information
Color characteristics may vary somewhat from one lamp type to another. Time should be allowed for the lamp to stabilize in color when it is turned on for the first time
or if for any reason its operating position is changed. This may require several hours
Requires a ballast specified or approved for Philips metal halide lamps, or one that is designed to operate all popular brands of metal halide lamps. 1000W types will operate from H36 conventional lag type ballast for Mercury Vapor lamps at ambient temper
Vertical lumens. Horizontal lumens 6%-10% lower.
10% in lumens is A LOT...
why?
Additional Information
Color characteristics may vary somewhat from one lamp type to another. Time should be allowed for the lamp to stabilize in color when it is turned on for the first time
or if for any reason its operating position is changed. This may require several hours
Requires a ballast specified or approved for Philips metal halide lamps, or one that is designed to operate all popular brands of metal halide lamps. 1000W types will operate from H36 conventional lag type ballast for Mercury Vapor lamps at ambient temper
Vertical lumens. Horizontal lumens 6%-10% lower.
10% in lumens is A LOT...
why?
hella cheap
http://www.goodmart.com/products/33372.htm
is this a perfect bulb or what?
good luck all...
*****************************************
My PLAN:
Viewsonic 15" panel
350:1 contrast ratio
250W MH light source
http://www.goodmart.com/products/33372.htm
is this a perfect bulb or what?
good luck all...
*****************************************
My PLAN:
Viewsonic 15" panel
350:1 contrast ratio
250W MH light source
prjctr builder
heya bud some bulbs run better at horizontal than vertical and vice versa, its best to go out and buy a universal burning posion bulb cos u have very minimal losses thats why lol its just the way they are designed to burn and made for diff reasons and aplications
Trev
heya bud some bulbs run better at horizontal than vertical and vice versa, its best to go out and buy a universal burning posion bulb cos u have very minimal losses thats why lol its just the way they are designed to burn and made for diff reasons and aplications
Trev
prjctr builder
hmmmmmmmm that gear u got isnt bad but im not sure if its ideal for the ohp setup lol i hate to see your shipping bill that thing looks heavy as lol the best posion u want for a projector is horizontal the vertical way is too inefficient and makes things realy alot bigger but u got this gear cheap and now u got the gear so get experimenting boy lol
trev
hmmmmmmmm that gear u got isnt bad but im not sure if its ideal for the ohp setup lol i hate to see your shipping bill that thing looks heavy as lol the best posion u want for a projector is horizontal the vertical way is too inefficient and makes things realy alot bigger but u got this gear cheap and now u got the gear so get experimenting boy lol
trev