DIY Video Projector Part II

property

property why dont use a 1000w halogen with a fish tank inbetween the light and the lcd that way keeping the lcd cool from the light and the enclosure no doubt, it would be quiet, u would have a nice fish tank screen saver and beter yet at the end of the movie a cooked dinner

Trev
 
Marklar said:
yep what would be nice is a clear film that you could put onto a peice of glass so it will not effet the color or brightness of the light. like This

Funny you should mention a "film". I went to crappy tire the other day to get some tint film for my new ride, then off to the "Gila" site to see what else they offer...I have sent for every sample piece they will send me 😉

zardoz
 
I've re-started my projector project. Maybe 2003 will treat me better than 2002.

few highlights so far:

1) I have purchased Dukane 28A681 with a 575W bulb that generates 49,000 lumens. I merely bought it to snag the set of optics off it, but, its proving to be fun to play with a bit. It is CLEARLY not bright enough for daytime movie viewing, which is pretty sad, because this is probably the brightest overhead projector you can buy. I paid $88 off e-bay(including shipping). Worth it for a matching set of optics, which is harder than hell to find (aspheric condenser lens, double-sided fresnel, and projection lens)

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


2) this kickass guy in California charged me shipping costs for him to send me this awesome reflector:


its 10" around at the opening, and about 10" deep. slightly smaller than what I was looking for, but, the fact that I actually have something in my hands kicks ***.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


3) Also, I re-did my projector site in PHP, with forms for me to update it that makes it easier than posting to this damn messageboard. Its great, so, maybe I will take 5 minutes to update my page more often now (instead of 10-15 to do it manually)

url is: http://www.dreamlash.com/DIY/

Also, check this out...

I set my new awesome digital camera (Olympus D-4000Z) to 1/25 shutter speed, and took two pictures - one with the LCD panel on top of the OHP, and one without, and then photoshopped one picture on top of the other. The results are astonishing. It literally cuts like 80% of the light. Check out the pic:


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
you said thats 49,000 lumens, My apollo concept is 4,000 and In the daytime It looks just as bright, thats wierd, also you said your just going to use the OHP for parts, So what Light source are you going to use, 575W is a lot to begin with, or is the bulb large ( ie large spark gap)? Im just not seeing its 49,000 lumens. mabe Im just retarded LOL mabe not though.
 
the 575W Metal Halide bulb by itself generates 49,000 lumens. The overhead projector is rated at 8,000 lumens, so, in relation to yours, it should theoretically be twice as bright. How big do you display your image? That is approximately 90" diagonal. (7' across)



I'd say that the end product you see in the pic above is approximately 400-500 ANSI lumens. that pic is during the day with shades pulled.
 
Re: property

Marklar said:
yep what would be nice is a clear film that you could put onto a peice of glass so it will not effet the color or brightness of the light. like This

Surely they seel this film at hardware Chains, don't they?

ace3000_1 said:
property why dont use a 1000w halogen with a fish tank inbetween the light and the lcd that way keeping the lcd cool from the light and the enclosure no doubt, it would be quiet, u would have a nice fish tank screen saver and beter yet at the end of the movie a cooked dinner

Trev

Well I'm sure Undream's bulb and soon to be bulb down there is putting out alot of heat at the reflector.

Undream said:
also, I'm going to be using a 1000W Metal Halide BT-37 bulb rated at 110,000 lumens with that reflector. If my calculations are correct, that should get me approximately 1000ANSI lumens for my end product. This will of course will all go in a custom made box.

Nice. what system is the reflector off of; and What time of day is it in those pictures because depending on the brightness of my screen it looks like 4😛m mid summer or 6am mid spring


And nice couch by the way.
 
VERY IMPORTANT!

Just to be rigorous...

ALL PICTURE POSTERS
All of you should post a rating on brightness when you post a picture of your results.

For instance 100 being the way your posted picture looks when viewed on the diyAudio.com website, and 1 being a pure white screen.

For Example Zreon could say the REAL image when viewed in whatever room he/she is in is 100:75:1 for short. That would ruffly translate to about 25 % brighter than the way it looks on the web.

Of course we don't have a way to measure everybody's individual brightness settings on their monitors when viewing the posted pics but...the above system should give us an idea no matter what setting we each give our individual brightness. So that, along with light conditions in the room (e.g. completely dark, time of day, etc...) which people already are posting__usually__, should give us all a more or less exact idea of how bright and evenly light a persons set up is.

Ok....UnDream ,
so how about it?
100 being how dark the picture you posted looks on the DiYAudio.com website and 1 being completely white screen, where does the actual image you see in person rank?
 
Say What?

Geez Property!
You don't want much, do Ya?
Make your own projector instead of telling all of us how to "rate" our screenshots.....Your method mokes no sense to me or most members I'm sure.....
Still waiting for the aquarium model debut.....
 
Geesh

Sorry proto5, that geesh was making fun of my scale idea being proven
inadequate so quickly than a complaint to you.

But i'd still like to know exactly what time of day your pictures were taken, and the status of your blinds/curtains at the time.

Also i think the scale is a good idea *in conjunction* with a description of exterior lighting conditions. I realize that eyeballs may vary from person to person...But if I know that, to you, the image posted on the website is 10% darker/lighter than the actual screen, then i can say "well it is *approximately* 10% darker/lighter than the way I see it on the website"....And if I adjust the brightness on my screen...i can then STILL say "well, it's approximately 10% darker/lighter than it appears to me at this brightness setting" etc...

That way, if I know the exterior lighting conditions, for example say 4pm with blinds half open...Then i can adjust the brightness on my screen to what appears to me to be 4pm-blinds half open, and then be able to say "Ok, the screen appears *approximatly* 10% darker/lighter than this"

Ok?