you are right.
do u have pictures of your projector? i am very interested in it.
where did u get your controller card from? does it work single? or is a pc required? does it support pal or just ntsc? what bulb do you use? etc. etc. I guess you have a homepage about that. Can u give me the link?
P.S.: EVERYONE is basicly me 🙄 ok that's not everyone but it is MY opinion...
best regards
Andy
do u have pictures of your projector? i am very interested in it.
where did u get your controller card from? does it work single? or is a pc required? does it support pal or just ntsc? what bulb do you use? etc. etc. I guess you have a homepage about that. Can u give me the link?
P.S.: EVERYONE is basicly me 🙄 ok that's not everyone but it is MY opinion...
best regards
Andy
slize
I don't have a web site up yet.. but think I might soon. My controller is a PCI LCD controller, so a computer is needed. There are a lot of suppliers for these but they aren't easy to buy as "one off's" they can be expensive when bought individually. My controller is a Spectrah LD S270M, it has limited use for gamers as it has only 8 megs of Ram.
It plays DVD's and games like AOE just fine though, I have other "non related" uses for this card though so it was a good choice for me. If you want a "stand alone" controller it will cost more.
My system is currently using a "low grade" LCD and gives me a wonderfull image (my much anticipated new LCD's arrived smashed 🙁 ) I run a 3M 9550 OHP to provide the light, it is un modified so far....
I have a VERY large lens on the way that I might play with before I decide on the PJ's final form of construction and eventual use.
For TV I use a TV tuner card.
zardoz
I don't have a web site up yet.. but think I might soon. My controller is a PCI LCD controller, so a computer is needed. There are a lot of suppliers for these but they aren't easy to buy as "one off's" they can be expensive when bought individually. My controller is a Spectrah LD S270M, it has limited use for gamers as it has only 8 megs of Ram.
It plays DVD's and games like AOE just fine though, I have other "non related" uses for this card though so it was a good choice for me. If you want a "stand alone" controller it will cost more.
My system is currently using a "low grade" LCD and gives me a wonderfull image (my much anticipated new LCD's arrived smashed 🙁 ) I run a 3M 9550 OHP to provide the light, it is un modified so far....
I have a VERY large lens on the way that I might play with before I decide on the PJ's final form of construction and eventual use.
For TV I use a TV tuner card.
zardoz
I am looking at some lcd screens and was would like to know what is more important: response time or contrast ratio.
I've found some NEC panels but the contrast is 150:1 with a response time os 12ms from full white to black. this is a 14.1 in panel. If i move up to a 15.4 with a 7ms resonse amd a 200:1 contrast ratio, but this would be difficult to put on a ohp. Any recomendations.
Also found this6.3 sxga
I've found some NEC panels but the contrast is 150:1 with a response time os 12ms from full white to black. this is a 14.1 in panel. If i move up to a 15.4 with a 7ms resonse amd a 200:1 contrast ratio, but this would be difficult to put on a ohp. Any recomendations.
Also found this6.3 sxga
Quieter Fans
Here is a simple idea to make your fans quieter for your ohp projector or the fans in your diy projector casing.
Well its quite simple realy just use rubber gromets that you find in the electrical store for next to nothing and put them in the mounting holes, simple..............
Also the fans you buy that they say are quieter have ball bearings rather than a bushing so if you go to buy a fan from some surplus store get the biggest you can get depending on the size you can fit, the slowest rpm say about 2500rpm is the best and make sure it is a bearing type, use the rubber gromets in the mounting holes and magic, the only noise you should hear is the air moving not the fans.
Regaurds Trev..........😉
Here is a simple idea to make your fans quieter for your ohp projector or the fans in your diy projector casing.
Well its quite simple realy just use rubber gromets that you find in the electrical store for next to nothing and put them in the mounting holes, simple..............
Also the fans you buy that they say are quieter have ball bearings rather than a bushing so if you go to buy a fan from some surplus store get the biggest you can get depending on the size you can fit, the slowest rpm say about 2500rpm is the best and make sure it is a bearing type, use the rubber gromets in the mounting holes and magic, the only noise you should hear is the air moving not the fans.
Regaurds Trev..........😉
fantastic new idea
What do you all think about that?
This is just to give this forum new inspirations. I had this idea yesterday so i didn't have the time to try it perfectly. I tried it with simple conditions. With a picture on an ohp foil a simple lamp...
To all those using a tft from laptops or pcs or whatever. didn't you always think how to extend the ribbon cables on the back of the tft? Well i'm sure you did in order to use the whole tft just like i did think about it. it is a hard thing, nearly impossible, to extend those and dangerous too because you could destroy the whole tft. with my idea you wont need to extend it and will still have the whole tft for the projection.
here is the idea:
why not taking all out of the tft as usual; backlights etc... but instead of puuting the whole tft apart, after that you put it togehter again and then the projection will work. How is that possible you ask...
Take a look.
You put a mirror right behind the tft, where there was the backlicght etc. i used a mirror burned on polysterol. it is a special mirror (it has no glas before the reflecting area, so the glas won't reflect too) and it is cheap... it just costs about 5$...
the new thing is you won't let shine th elight through the tft but right onto it; advantage you can use the wohle tft without taking it apart. after you placed the mirror behind the matrix you put it back together... i made sketches of that: it works but i hadn't have th etime to test it with a fresnel lense yet...
the biggest advantage is you wont have to take your tft apart at all after placing the mirror...
and may be ther ewill be more light because of th emirro; but i will hav to test that...
and may be you wont have temperature problems if you coll th emirror etc... but i will have to test that either...
here are the sketches:
i am sure everyone of you who has taken a TFT PC Monitor or whatever knwos what i am talking about; so let me know what you think about that...
What do you all think about that?
This is just to give this forum new inspirations. I had this idea yesterday so i didn't have the time to try it perfectly. I tried it with simple conditions. With a picture on an ohp foil a simple lamp...
To all those using a tft from laptops or pcs or whatever. didn't you always think how to extend the ribbon cables on the back of the tft? Well i'm sure you did in order to use the whole tft just like i did think about it. it is a hard thing, nearly impossible, to extend those and dangerous too because you could destroy the whole tft. with my idea you wont need to extend it and will still have the whole tft for the projection.
here is the idea:
why not taking all out of the tft as usual; backlights etc... but instead of puuting the whole tft apart, after that you put it togehter again and then the projection will work. How is that possible you ask...
Take a look.
You put a mirror right behind the tft, where there was the backlicght etc. i used a mirror burned on polysterol. it is a special mirror (it has no glas before the reflecting area, so the glas won't reflect too) and it is cheap... it just costs about 5$...
the new thing is you won't let shine th elight through the tft but right onto it; advantage you can use the wohle tft without taking it apart. after you placed the mirror behind the matrix you put it back together... i made sketches of that: it works but i hadn't have th etime to test it with a fresnel lense yet...
the biggest advantage is you wont have to take your tft apart at all after placing the mirror...
and may be ther ewill be more light because of th emirro; but i will hav to test that...
and may be you wont have temperature problems if you coll th emirror etc... but i will have to test that either...
here are the sketches:
i am sure everyone of you who has taken a TFT PC Monitor or whatever knwos what i am talking about; so let me know what you think about that...
Attachments
I think the image will be washed out and blurry, and light would not reflect at that angle the right way... Nice idea though, worth a test.
Re: Idea
I think that idea would work because some projectors do work like that, but i tend to agree with verbose because an LCD can only be veiwed at certain angles before it gets washed out, but if u can get the light to as close as possible so it is more or less right in front of the Lcd then it could be a goer, Great idea though.
Ive included a pic in what ive done with my Lcd to give you guys some ideas, also if you bend the small Lcd Ribbon cable so its strait you risk it very badly to breakage, that is why ive done this with mine.
Trev
P.S my cable looks like it has been pulled strait but it hasnt its at a right angle, sorry for the bad pic too lol
I think that idea would work because some projectors do work like that, but i tend to agree with verbose because an LCD can only be veiwed at certain angles before it gets washed out, but if u can get the light to as close as possible so it is more or less right in front of the Lcd then it could be a goer, Great idea though.
Ive included a pic in what ive done with my Lcd to give you guys some ideas, also if you bend the small Lcd Ribbon cable so its strait you risk it very badly to breakage, that is why ive done this with mine.
Trev
P.S my cable looks like it has been pulled strait but it hasnt its at a right angle, sorry for the bad pic too lol
Attachments
Re: Idea
That is what i meant i just coudnt think in the name of it as ive seen too manny with fancy names lol but yess i would give it ago if i wasnt so busy building one already that ive planed😉
That is what i meant i just coudnt think in the name of it as ive seen too manny with fancy names lol but yess i would give it ago if i wasnt so busy building one already that ive planed😉
im back
ohp people
if u raise the lcd panel, dont you get way way more more light going through the lcd panel. the way i see it is the light all around the panel thats on the fresnel/glass is just waste and more light to light up the room. i got to go to work later.
🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂
ohp people
if u raise the lcd panel, dont you get way way more more light going through the lcd panel. the way i see it is the light all around the panel thats on the fresnel/glass is just waste and more light to light up the room. i got to go to work later.
🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂
ohp people here is a thought
Ok i dont have a ohp but i know how frensels work as im building my own custom projector from scratch with a frensel involved.
Ok now those of u who use smaller lcd's like say a 6inch or a lcd that is smaller than the top of the ohp u will have much light loss around the lcd because that light isnt going through the lcd and just lighting up the room, now the thing is the frensel on a ohp is not fully focused to the frensel on a ohp because it is manufactured so the light source covers the whole of the top of the ohp.
Now because u can not move the frensel up and down to find a focal point , try to move the light up and down inside to make the bulb show on the wall (u can do this and u should see the actual light bulb on ther wall) and therfore being a brightness increase to max output.
I know for a 6inch lcd that would be fine but for other sizes it would be a trial and error to get the desired size for your screen and ofcourse u will get some light still in the room but mask it off around the lcd, and by doing this u are getting the most light out of the ohp for your size lcd u can get, i hope i didnt make it too hard to explain but im alittle tyred right now.
Regaurds Trev
Good Luck!!!!
Ok i dont have a ohp but i know how frensels work as im building my own custom projector from scratch with a frensel involved.
Ok now those of u who use smaller lcd's like say a 6inch or a lcd that is smaller than the top of the ohp u will have much light loss around the lcd because that light isnt going through the lcd and just lighting up the room, now the thing is the frensel on a ohp is not fully focused to the frensel on a ohp because it is manufactured so the light source covers the whole of the top of the ohp.
Now because u can not move the frensel up and down to find a focal point , try to move the light up and down inside to make the bulb show on the wall (u can do this and u should see the actual light bulb on ther wall) and therfore being a brightness increase to max output.
I know for a 6inch lcd that would be fine but for other sizes it would be a trial and error to get the desired size for your screen and ofcourse u will get some light still in the room but mask it off around the lcd, and by doing this u are getting the most light out of the ohp for your size lcd u can get, i hope i didnt make it too hard to explain but im alittle tyred right now.
Regaurds Trev
Good Luck!!!!
correction error
sorry guys i meant the ohp's frensel is not focused to the light inside of the ohp for smaller sizes, also put the lcd ontop of the projector and see if the lcd is bigger than the bulb on the wall and just focus so the light is just alittle bigger than the lcd on the wall so u dont get any bright spots
Trev😉
sorry guys i meant the ohp's frensel is not focused to the light inside of the ohp for smaller sizes, also put the lcd ontop of the projector and see if the lcd is bigger than the bulb on the wall and just focus so the light is just alittle bigger than the lcd on the wall so u dont get any bright spots
Trev😉
slize - fantastic new idea
Dear slize:
I think you have a great idea! I encourage you to pursue it so that we can all benefit from your experience. Essentially what you are talking about in terms of the light placement and the use of a mirror as a reflective device behind the lcd panel, is a reflective system. The concept is sound.
There are two types of projection systems used commercially that embody the reflective concept. First and most common is the dlp system by Texas Instruments that is a micro reflective mirror, albeit using a micro mirrors and a color wheel, but it is reflective and offering some of the best images out there.
If you want to see a knockout system look at Samsung's brand new rear view dlp projection unit. I saw one in Circuit City that just arrived this week, and it is phenominal! It blows the doors off the lcd and plasma panels and the super sized cathode ray tubes. The image is brilliant, intense colors and highly contrasted. You can adjust the picture values on this system, and I did so, that they are surrealistically intensely without color bleeding. Look for more models to follow. It is pricey in a 50" unit for about $3500.
The second system is a reflective LCD unit that does largely what you are proposing namely using an exterior light directed at the panel rather than through it.
The advantages of you succeeding is our having to avoid disassembling the panels as extensively, potentially using more of the light by having the combination of the reflected light from the surface of the panel combined with the light that passes through and is reflected from the mirror foil and back through the lcd panel.
The trick will be testing the angle of light incidence with respect to the lcd panel surface in terms of the polarization effect, the absortion of light in the panel and panel surface, and how much light passes into the panel is reflected and passes out panel.
Assuming you can master the angles of light, you then have the task of gathering the two sources of light, surface and back reflected, with a lens to project to a screen surface. You may be well served to use a thin fresnel behind the lcd panel if you can master that to focus the light rays into the projection lens.
I urge you to experiment and advise us of your effort.
David
Dear slize:
I think you have a great idea! I encourage you to pursue it so that we can all benefit from your experience. Essentially what you are talking about in terms of the light placement and the use of a mirror as a reflective device behind the lcd panel, is a reflective system. The concept is sound.
There are two types of projection systems used commercially that embody the reflective concept. First and most common is the dlp system by Texas Instruments that is a micro reflective mirror, albeit using a micro mirrors and a color wheel, but it is reflective and offering some of the best images out there.
If you want to see a knockout system look at Samsung's brand new rear view dlp projection unit. I saw one in Circuit City that just arrived this week, and it is phenominal! It blows the doors off the lcd and plasma panels and the super sized cathode ray tubes. The image is brilliant, intense colors and highly contrasted. You can adjust the picture values on this system, and I did so, that they are surrealistically intensely without color bleeding. Look for more models to follow. It is pricey in a 50" unit for about $3500.
The second system is a reflective LCD unit that does largely what you are proposing namely using an exterior light directed at the panel rather than through it.
The advantages of you succeeding is our having to avoid disassembling the panels as extensively, potentially using more of the light by having the combination of the reflected light from the surface of the panel combined with the light that passes through and is reflected from the mirror foil and back through the lcd panel.
The trick will be testing the angle of light incidence with respect to the lcd panel surface in terms of the polarization effect, the absortion of light in the panel and panel surface, and how much light passes into the panel is reflected and passes out panel.
Assuming you can master the angles of light, you then have the task of gathering the two sources of light, surface and back reflected, with a lens to project to a screen surface. You may be well served to use a thin fresnel behind the lcd panel if you can master that to focus the light rays into the projection lens.
I urge you to experiment and advise us of your effort.
David
Finally... NEC Desktop LCD
Finally read this entire thread... exercise in preseverance.
I am building a PJ with 400 watt MH and Desktop LCD panel as I want the higher quality specs. and possibly the salad bowl reflector.
I picked up the NEC 1550V Panel today as I read in the DIYPROJECTION forum that someone in New York used the NEC 1545V with good results. The actual LCD module is a LG Phillips LM150X05. I have it disassembled to that point, but cannot find a way to remove the final partial medal shield. Anyone have any ideas? Its almost as if they "glued" 2 or 3 overlapping metal plates together during assembly. I could bend the medal away, but am afraid I will damage the thin circuits underneath.
I love the idea of using the LCD PCI card, but I need more than 8 Meg of Ram!
I love the salad bowl idea.
I did find a small lighting shop that carries Maglatek (?) ballasts, but they carry only magnetic ballasts. Guys, do I want a magnetic ballast (multi-tap)? Are there electronic ones? Do you notice any noise from your ballasts? This lighting guy is intrigued by the PJ idea, and is going to let me go through his old stock to see what kind of reflectors I can find.
Thanks for stepping into holes before I get to them.
Finally read this entire thread... exercise in preseverance.
I am building a PJ with 400 watt MH and Desktop LCD panel as I want the higher quality specs. and possibly the salad bowl reflector.
I picked up the NEC 1550V Panel today as I read in the DIYPROJECTION forum that someone in New York used the NEC 1545V with good results. The actual LCD module is a LG Phillips LM150X05. I have it disassembled to that point, but cannot find a way to remove the final partial medal shield. Anyone have any ideas? Its almost as if they "glued" 2 or 3 overlapping metal plates together during assembly. I could bend the medal away, but am afraid I will damage the thin circuits underneath.
I love the idea of using the LCD PCI card, but I need more than 8 Meg of Ram!
I love the salad bowl idea.
I did find a small lighting shop that carries Maglatek (?) ballasts, but they carry only magnetic ballasts. Guys, do I want a magnetic ballast (multi-tap)? Are there electronic ones? Do you notice any noise from your ballasts? This lighting guy is intrigued by the PJ idea, and is going to let me go through his old stock to see what kind of reflectors I can find.
Thanks for stepping into holes before I get to them.
hi davesos,
thats where i got the idea origianlly from: from the dlp concept. but i figuered out one problem: the anles. the problem is th emirror is behind the lcd and then you project it with an angle of 45 degrees. then the point which was orriginally lets say green goes through a red point and the light will not come on the wall in the right way.
my newer idea is to solve this problem with a mirror which lets pass light through one side and on the other reflect. made a sketch of that again...
problem is to find thos mirrors. i remember someone came up with thos mirrors with another idea, so someone found it. i think they weren't that expensive... i'll keep on looking for that
what is this type of mirror called again? may be we get a little closer to th eproblem with the heat through this kind of mirror...
best regards andy
thats where i got the idea origianlly from: from the dlp concept. but i figuered out one problem: the anles. the problem is th emirror is behind the lcd and then you project it with an angle of 45 degrees. then the point which was orriginally lets say green goes through a red point and the light will not come on the wall in the right way.
my newer idea is to solve this problem with a mirror which lets pass light through one side and on the other reflect. made a sketch of that again...
problem is to find thos mirrors. i remember someone came up with thos mirrors with another idea, so someone found it. i think they weren't that expensive... i'll keep on looking for that
what is this type of mirror called again? may be we get a little closer to th eproblem with the heat through this kind of mirror...
best regards andy
Attachments
I have seen designs like that on the forum before, but i do not belive any one has tried it. It's worth a shot.
i found a page where there is described how to make a diy "one-way" mirror, i think thats what the mirror is called...
http://www.hollowscream.com/mirror.html
http://www.hollowscream.com/mirror.html
According to that site, the side that the light is on would reflect the light all over, and very little would pass through, and little bit of the light reflecting off the lcd would go right through the mirror back into the light chamber.
Mirroring light and such...
Hey! Great thinking on putting the mirror in place of the backlight!
The only thing I see with that is that you're going to be passing your light through the LCD twice, and that could definately kill alot of your sharpness (shadowed images), and much darker (because it's going to pass through the LCD twice). The tighter the angle that you make, the less ghosting that you will have. Also, because it polarises the light going through the LCD, and that's where the majority of your light loss occurs, you might not have too much of a problem with the double-pass light-loss.
In conclusion, there seem to be drawbacks to this idea, but I would like to see if the penalties from such a method outweigh the advantages. 🙂
--Clint
Hey! Great thinking on putting the mirror in place of the backlight!
The only thing I see with that is that you're going to be passing your light through the LCD twice, and that could definately kill alot of your sharpness (shadowed images), and much darker (because it's going to pass through the LCD twice). The tighter the angle that you make, the less ghosting that you will have. Also, because it polarises the light going through the LCD, and that's where the majority of your light loss occurs, you might not have too much of a problem with the double-pass light-loss.
In conclusion, there seem to be drawbacks to this idea, but I would like to see if the penalties from such a method outweigh the advantages. 🙂
--Clint
