dude your tripping that lite in there gets hooked up in two places the front and the back/ kinda like in the halagen flood lights at home depot. one light bulb hooked up to two sockets.
😀 😀 😀 😀
😀 😀 😀 😀
progress
Hey Everybody,
I haven't posted in a while, so I thought I would let everyone know what progress I have made.
I bought a 4 1/2 in Lightolier ellipsoidal downlight on Ebay for $22. It arrived last week. I am planning on going with the Marlakar set up, with the downlight focusing the light, and a lense to disperse it onto my fresnel and LCD.
Today the MH ED28 400 W bulb I ordered from affordable lighting arrived. One problem, it was a BT28 bulb. So Buddy, came through same as he did for Undream, and is sending me out a new one. Cool thing is that I get to keep the other one, so maybe I will buy a socket for it and experiment with it this weekend.
Nice thing about the ED28 is that it will fit right into the downlight with NO need for widening the hole.
So next week I will see how well my downlight collects the light, and try and burn some paper like Marlakar. Then I will start to put it together....
J
Hey Everybody,
I haven't posted in a while, so I thought I would let everyone know what progress I have made.
I bought a 4 1/2 in Lightolier ellipsoidal downlight on Ebay for $22. It arrived last week. I am planning on going with the Marlakar set up, with the downlight focusing the light, and a lense to disperse it onto my fresnel and LCD.
Today the MH ED28 400 W bulb I ordered from affordable lighting arrived. One problem, it was a BT28 bulb. So Buddy, came through same as he did for Undream, and is sending me out a new one. Cool thing is that I get to keep the other one, so maybe I will buy a socket for it and experiment with it this weekend.
Nice thing about the ED28 is that it will fit right into the downlight with NO need for widening the hole.
So next week I will see how well my downlight collects the light, and try and burn some paper like Marlakar. Then I will start to put it together....
J
WTF is going on?
i have a DUKANE quantum overhead and a Sharp QA-2500 panel. these are nice products, but something is wrong. after about 5 minutes i start getting this ( if i project BLACk on the screen).
eventhough the transition is smoother, it is very frustrating, it's like all the light is concentrated on the panel. there's nothing wrong with the panel, i checked.
also, i seem to loose A LOT of light. the DUKANE gives off a F*%K ton of light, i can illuminate a city block with it. but when i place a panel on top, it seems like there is a 1W bulb in there.
anyone knows WTF?
tell me plz
aleksey
i have a DUKANE quantum overhead and a Sharp QA-2500 panel. these are nice products, but something is wrong. after about 5 minutes i start getting this ( if i project BLACk on the screen).
eventhough the transition is smoother, it is very frustrating, it's like all the light is concentrated on the panel. there's nothing wrong with the panel, i checked.
also, i seem to loose A LOT of light. the DUKANE gives off a F*%K ton of light, i can illuminate a city block with it. but when i place a panel on top, it seems like there is a 1W bulb in there.
anyone knows WTF?
tell me plz
aleksey
Aleksey,
this looks like a bad tooth!
Could be too much heat! Have you removed or replaced any parts of OHP or panel?
Try to blow like hell with a big fan on the panel after start, put it 1" higher, so that air comes also at the bottom side, then watch again! Don't get the panel too high, cause heat is also growing if you move it upwards.
good luck!
xblocker
this looks like a bad tooth!
Could be too much heat! Have you removed or replaced any parts of OHP or panel?
Try to blow like hell with a big fan on the panel after start, put it 1" higher, so that air comes also at the bottom side, then watch again! Don't get the panel too high, cause heat is also growing if you move it upwards.
good luck!
xblocker
wow!
Someone just got a Dukane Quantum (8000 lumen,in excellent condition?) for $39 bucks off of ebay.
That person must be pretty happy...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1366161025
Someone just got a Dukane Quantum (8000 lumen,in excellent condition?) for $39 bucks off of ebay.
That person must be pretty happy...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1366161025
Aleksey,
Sorry to hear of your problems.
How hot is the panel when you get this effect? If you pick the panel up off the projector, does the bottom glass feel hot to the touch?
There should be a fan inside the panel that blows cool air over the LCD. If the fan is working properly, have you checked to make sure the intake for it is not drawing air directly from the OHP output?
If you still have your infocus panel, have you tried swapping it with the Sharp when you get this effect - this might show an issue with the OHP and not the panel (let's eliminate some unknowns...)
Moving on: once everything has reset itself and is operating normally, why not try running the Sharp panel on its own without the projector for a few minutes to see if the issue is due to the panel alone? (Prop the panel up so that you can see some light through it, but it stays cool. Keep the vents open and unblocked. Drive it as if you were using it normally.) It might be a problem with the LCD itself, the Sharp controller board, or the PSU overheating internally.
My old Sharp panel works very nicely, but is VERY critical of temperature, requiring an operating temperature of no more than 40 degrees.
Last, with the panel and OHP warmed up separately, if all seems to be working correctly, place the Sharp panel on the OHP, and check for any immediate signs of problems that could indicate interference.
Good luck,
Bill.
Sorry to hear of your problems.
How hot is the panel when you get this effect? If you pick the panel up off the projector, does the bottom glass feel hot to the touch?
There should be a fan inside the panel that blows cool air over the LCD. If the fan is working properly, have you checked to make sure the intake for it is not drawing air directly from the OHP output?
If you still have your infocus panel, have you tried swapping it with the Sharp when you get this effect - this might show an issue with the OHP and not the panel (let's eliminate some unknowns...)
Moving on: once everything has reset itself and is operating normally, why not try running the Sharp panel on its own without the projector for a few minutes to see if the issue is due to the panel alone? (Prop the panel up so that you can see some light through it, but it stays cool. Keep the vents open and unblocked. Drive it as if you were using it normally.) It might be a problem with the LCD itself, the Sharp controller board, or the PSU overheating internally.
My old Sharp panel works very nicely, but is VERY critical of temperature, requiring an operating temperature of no more than 40 degrees.
Last, with the panel and OHP warmed up separately, if all seems to be working correctly, place the Sharp panel on the OHP, and check for any immediate signs of problems that could indicate interference.
Good luck,
Bill.
thanks...
dude, my panel was WAY hotter than 40 degrees when i took it off. it was probably over a 100. i will try to see what i can do..thx 4 the advice.
aleksey
dude, my panel was WAY hotter than 40 degrees when i took it off. it was probably over a 100. i will try to see what i can do..thx 4 the advice.
aleksey
Re: wow!
nope, that projector is not nearly as good as the QUANTUM. i have seen the specs, the specs of this thing are way lower than of QUANTUM. and from the picture all i can say is that it is ruined...
aleksey
braxton said:
nope, that projector is not nearly as good as the QUANTUM. i have seen the specs, the specs of this thing are way lower than of QUANTUM. and from the picture all i can say is that it is ruined...
aleksey
Super Luminance LED
GUys,
Check this out. Ran across it just now.... might be something usefull...
http://www.peclamp.com/new_led.htm
ap0the0sis😀
GUys,
Check this out. Ran across it just now.... might be something usefull...
http://www.peclamp.com/new_led.htm
ap0the0sis😀
Check this out too.....
This might be a good fiund also,
200/250/350 Watt NTP Metal Halide
Illuminator System
Watts 200 DC
Voltage 40.0
Color Temp(K) 6,000
Lumens (LM) 10,600
Arc Gap 1.35 MM
Rated Life (Based on Use) 1,500 - 4,000 hrs
Luminous Efficacy (LM\W) 53
Length 57.0 MM
CRI 90
Chromaticity X = 0.322
Y = 0.335
Lumens Thru 13øApature 6,200
ap0the0sis
P.S. I think those LEDS might actually put some progress on our systems. I sent an email requesting pricing information.
This might be a good fiund also,
200/250/350 Watt NTP Metal Halide
Illuminator System
Watts 200 DC
Voltage 40.0
Color Temp(K) 6,000
Lumens (LM) 10,600
Arc Gap 1.35 MM
Rated Life (Based on Use) 1,500 - 4,000 hrs
Luminous Efficacy (LM\W) 53
Length 57.0 MM
CRI 90
Chromaticity X = 0.322
Y = 0.335
Lumens Thru 13øApature 6,200
ap0the0sis
P.S. I think those LEDS might actually put some progress on our systems. I sent an email requesting pricing information.
Attachments
Hi Aleksey,
I was talking degrees Centigrade/Celsius - 40C equates to 104F. (100C would boil water...) Sorry for the confusion.
I think it was said before in the last thread: If it felt hot - uncomfortably hot - then it was definitely too hot.
At the point where you would feel uncomfortable, then the LCD will too.
With your setup, you can definitely afford to put that cooling filter in, though - your OHP will definitely have the power to stand the 15% losses from the filter...
Bill.
I was talking degrees Centigrade/Celsius - 40C equates to 104F. (100C would boil water...) Sorry for the confusion.
I think it was said before in the last thread: If it felt hot - uncomfortably hot - then it was definitely too hot.
At the point where you would feel uncomfortable, then the LCD will too.
With your setup, you can definitely afford to put that cooling filter in, though - your OHP will definitely have the power to stand the 15% losses from the filter...
Bill.
ap0the0sis,
I contacted them about the unit you mentioned, and they didn't appear to like me bcause they quoted a price $1000.
🙁
Bill.
I contacted them about the unit you mentioned, and they didn't appear to like me bcause they quoted a price $1000.
🙁
Bill.
HA! What a bunch of F@#$%ers! They actually expect to sell these things? Maybe its because they only sell to distributors...
ap0the0sis
What about them LEDs?
ap0the0sis
What about them LEDs?
For all you looking for a LCD Panel with 1024X768 and 16.7 Mill colors
POLAROID HR 2500 POLAVIEW LCD PANEL PROJECTOR
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2040155103
ap0the0sis
POLAROID HR 2500 POLAVIEW LCD PANEL PROJECTOR
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2040155103
ap0the0sis
The LEDs look similar to a type that was discussed recently here. I think they were called Luxeon Star and represent the cutting edge.
They are very bright, operate at around 5 watts, and output about 25 lumens per watt.
Thus one LED would give 125 lumens(ish).
The 400 Watt MH bulbs give off (I think) around 30,000 lumens.
The LED is rated at 100,000 hours lifespan. A MH bulb gives 20,000 hours easy and costs roughly $30 to $50.
In a couple of years, the LEDs will probably catch up as a practical alternative - just in time to be de-throned by the new Microwave-excited Sulfur balls...
Check out www.luxeon.com for more info.
Bill.
They are very bright, operate at around 5 watts, and output about 25 lumens per watt.
Thus one LED would give 125 lumens(ish).
The 400 Watt MH bulbs give off (I think) around 30,000 lumens.
The LED is rated at 100,000 hours lifespan. A MH bulb gives 20,000 hours easy and costs roughly $30 to $50.
In a couple of years, the LEDs will probably catch up as a practical alternative - just in time to be de-throned by the new Microwave-excited Sulfur balls...
Check out www.luxeon.com for more info.
Bill.
I was talking about the cost of running a 3.5KW theater bulb.
So someone else is trying the same thing as me with an ellipsoidal light.....you are right about them though, the ellipsoidal reflector is designed for a non-point source of light. They ususally expect a fillament that is ~1inch long so we can easily put a 400W MH inside them...the only question that really remains with that is how the F do you cool the bulb.
What lens structure does your ellipsoidal have...ie dist between the lenses, and dist from light source to #1 lens?
So someone else is trying the same thing as me with an ellipsoidal light.....you are right about them though, the ellipsoidal reflector is designed for a non-point source of light. They ususally expect a fillament that is ~1inch long so we can easily put a 400W MH inside them...the only question that really remains with that is how the F do you cool the bulb.
What lens structure does your ellipsoidal have...ie dist between the lenses, and dist from light source to #1 lens?
Bill, are you a scientist/engineer? I rarely hear people in the US talk in Centigrade or Kelvin anymore unless they are scientits, or engineers.
