Guys,
Does anyone know how to make a turntable belt?
I'm trying to figure out what materials I can use and how to actually make it (searches on the internet find nothing other than "replacing" belts).
To give you some info: I am using a Pro-ject Genie motor and an acrylic platter made for the genie (acrylteller).
However, the distance between motor and platter are currently quite a bit more than on the genie, so I cannot use the genie's belt.
Does anyone know how to make a turntable belt?
I'm trying to figure out what materials I can use and how to actually make it (searches on the internet find nothing other than "replacing" belts).
To give you some info: I am using a Pro-ject Genie motor and an acrylic platter made for the genie (acrylteller).
However, the distance between motor and platter are currently quite a bit more than on the genie, so I cannot use the genie's belt.
We don't like o-rings?
The manufactured ones (as opposed to the DIY ones made from superglued cord) are generally well formed and seamless.
They come in all shapes, sizes and flavors too.
This is what I was planing to do for my table project, but if this is a bad idea, I'd like to know now!
PS since there are also square-section O-rings, this might be a better solution- these type seem to be what are used on some tables...
The manufactured ones (as opposed to the DIY ones made from superglued cord) are generally well formed and seamless.
They come in all shapes, sizes and flavors too.
This is what I was planing to do for my table project, but if this is a bad idea, I'd like to know now!
PS since there are also square-section O-rings, this might be a better solution- these type seem to be what are used on some tables...
I'm using upholstery thread (from Walmart) with a square knot. Maybe not perfect, but it is working for me. If you are looking for more of a belt, you can try magnetic tape. I've used 1/4" R2R, but I don't see why you couldn't use cassette or VCR tapes if those widths worked better. I was using packing tape to splice. Regular "scotch" style tape didn't want to hold for more than a few days.
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
I think that is what is done.
However, I don't see why you couldn't also lap the ends and super glue those as well.. (except if you have a very small drive pulley which may have too small a radius for the stiff string area; although I suspect it would do the same with a knot?)
I don't know. Haven't got that far yet!
(Still leaning toward an O-ring as no one says not to
)
However, I don't see why you couldn't also lap the ends and super glue those as well.. (except if you have a very small drive pulley which may have too small a radius for the stiff string area; although I suspect it would do the same with a knot?)
I don't know. Haven't got that far yet!
(Still leaning toward an O-ring as no one says not to
)a thin elastic thread with a knot is ok even you can't see the knot too. you can try them all and find out the difference and make the final decision, there will be a lot of fun in doing that and will not cost too much money
tony ma
I use this tape from mcmaster.com. 75895A21
It's a very thin polyester tape. I cut the ends on a bias (so there is a more gradual transition to the double thickness part), overlap a few cm to create a belt. Then I coat the remaining exposed adhesive with talc. I use the non-adhesive side against the turntable and motor spindle. It's kinda tricky to handle during construction, but once you make a good belt, it can last for years.
Sheldon
It's a very thin polyester tape. I cut the ends on a bias (so there is a more gradual transition to the double thickness part), overlap a few cm to create a belt. Then I coat the remaining exposed adhesive with talc. I use the non-adhesive side against the turntable and motor spindle. It's kinda tricky to handle during construction, but once you make a good belt, it can last for years.
Sheldon
I experimented a lot with alternative material to make TT belts.
I tried magnetic tape, dental floss, o-rings and so on, but for me the best is surgical silk.
All stretchable materials, including rubber, tend to produce time delay that creates energy storage and sound degradation.
As such, using a non-stretchable material gives an incredible improvement in sound quality. It just seems to have another TT a lot more expensive.
Also, surgical silk does not wear, even after years of use. It lasts longer than the TT.
For joining the ends a square knot is enough, and doesn't affect rotation.
I tried magnetic tape, dental floss, o-rings and so on, but for me the best is surgical silk.
All stretchable materials, including rubber, tend to produce time delay that creates energy storage and sound degradation.
As such, using a non-stretchable material gives an incredible improvement in sound quality. It just seems to have another TT a lot more expensive.
Also, surgical silk does not wear, even after years of use. It lasts longer than the TT.
For joining the ends a square knot is enough, and doesn't affect rotation.
try one more time with very very thin elastic thread, rubber belt is not sensitive enough. too thick, the thickness should be same as sewing thread, in my case, the result is opposite elastic thread can hear more live than sewing thread or any other non-stretch stuff, those elastic thread maybe you can find in garment and clothing material supply store, key point is little force can come with a lot stretch use tension to adjust slip
tony ma
Thank you for your advice.
Sometime ago I tried a kind of dental floss that is thin and elastic. Bad results: I lost all the advantages I had with the normal non-elastic unwaxed type. Tried also sewing thread but results were far from what is obtained with surgical silk. I think that in my setup it is the best I tried until now.
Sometime ago I tried a kind of dental floss that is thin and elastic. Bad results: I lost all the advantages I had with the normal non-elastic unwaxed type. Tried also sewing thread but results were far from what is obtained with surgical silk. I think that in my setup it is the best I tried until now.
When I was a bench tech long ago repairing anything that came into the store, we had a belt kit which consisted of various sizes of belt stock, a fixture with a razor blade, and some glue. You matched the size of the old belt, cut the right length, glued it together and you were ready to go.
I was looking for something similar tonight and came across this thread, but couldn't find the kit. Anyone else remember something like this?
Jim
I was looking for something similar tonight and came across this thread, but couldn't find the kit. Anyone else remember something like this?
Jim
My Dad's shop (Foreigh auto repair) had a 'custom' O-ring kit which was essentially the same thing.
Get some cord stock, a razor and super glue and you can make rubber belts all day long!
If you get extra glue on the od, just wipe it up with Acetone once it dries.
To make that knot the Japanese showed me to loop through twice and the knot then has the string come out and is very flat on the one side. No speed bump effect. Lots of testing got me to button and carpet thread in a dark gray color available at a sewing store. This is the largest diameter normal thread without going to something huge. The dark gray had the most friction by quite a bit. Yes different colors were tested and dark gray was the winner.
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