Has anyone diy tonearm outperform rega's tonearm? I am hopping there are some who has done a great job.
My upside down ladegaard style air bearign arm took about a day to make, cost about £30 and beats the hell out of any rega arm, probably better than any rega based arm at all no matter how modified.
In fact, ill even go as far as to say it probably beats any pivoting arm at all.
I have no evicence to back this up except a couple of reviews of an identical arm which were very favourable. They said it was up there with £5000 arms!
I do know for definate that it is in a different universe to a stock rega arm though as thats what i had before.
Beating a rega arm isnt hard😀
This arm is what i built first. It very easily outshone the rega.
http://www.aiko.com/roscoe/airbearingarm.html
Then i saw this version so i built one of these, much better than the first version
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-TERMINATO...39:1|66:2|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
In fact, ill even go as far as to say it probably beats any pivoting arm at all.
I have no evicence to back this up except a couple of reviews of an identical arm which were very favourable. They said it was up there with £5000 arms!
I do know for definate that it is in a different universe to a stock rega arm though as thats what i had before.
Beating a rega arm isnt hard😀
This arm is what i built first. It very easily outshone the rega.
http://www.aiko.com/roscoe/airbearingarm.html
Then i saw this version so i built one of these, much better than the first version
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-TERMINATO...39:1|66:2|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
I seriously have no idea why anyone bothers with pivoting arms anymore, ill never go back.
I may try a schroeder (sp) clone one day though.
I may try a schroeder (sp) clone one day though.
WOW, heavenly sent. Can you please post some close up pictures on how you did the 2nd arm. I can get a lot of spare aluminum. Any specific type of aluminum?
Everything you need to know is in the first link 🙂
If theres antything specific you want to ask then go ahead.
If theres antything specific you want to ask then go ahead.
beating a Rega is easy...
but beating an SME is a little tougher. I haven't managed that yet, but I have hit one in the ball park for very little money.
The upside down air bearing arm looks pretty good...
but beating an SME is a little tougher. I haven't managed that yet, but I have hit one in the ball park for very little money.
The upside down air bearing arm looks pretty good...
Hi Graeme,
I have built one of the original Ladegaard arm like you, but how did you make the Upside down version. I cant work it out from the pictures? where did you buy the materials from and did you use the same pump?
Cheers
Ian
I have built one of the original Ladegaard arm like you, but how did you make the Upside down version. I cant work it out from the pictures? where did you buy the materials from and did you use the same pump?
Cheers
Ian
graeme uk said:My upside down ladegaard style air bearign arm took about a day to make, cost about £30 and beats the hell out of any rega arm, probably better than any rega based arm at all no matter how modified.
In fact, ill even go as far as to say it probably beats any pivoting arm at all.
I have no evicence to back this up except a couple of reviews of an identical arm which were very favourable. They said it was up there with £5000 arms!
I do know for definate that it is in a different universe to a stock rega arm though as thats what i had before.
Beating a rega arm isnt hard😀
This arm is what i built first. It very easily outshone the rega.
http://www.aiko.com/roscoe/airbearingarm.html
Then i saw this version so i built one of these, much better than the first version
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-TERMINATO...39:1|66:2|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Yep, same pump.
Most of the materials were from B&Q, with a bit of plastic from the local suppliers. Mine is a bit simpler than that one.
What cant you work out? Its exactly the same as the normal ladegaard, just upside down. The mounting area looks comlicated but all it is is a way to adjust height and level, theres plenty of ways to do that.
Most of the materials were from B&Q, with a bit of plastic from the local suppliers. Mine is a bit simpler than that one.
What cant you work out? Its exactly the same as the normal ladegaard, just upside down. The mounting area looks comlicated but all it is is a way to adjust height and level, theres plenty of ways to do that.
Graeme, nice arm
did you make the arm mount itself from acrylic (not clear in the photo)? It is certainly quite nice and definitely more finished than anything I can come up with for the moment. The old Lenco looks good. Wish I could get my hands on one.
The air bearing arms are very interesting and I do have some materials here to make one.
My "Nanook's $2.19" tone arm is very good and so easy, my dog could make it (and hers definitely would look better than mine '
' It's in the ball park of my SME 309 magnesium tonearm, with the same cartridge (same model) mounted in both. A great way to get an arm on a table when most are very expensive.
stew
did you make the arm mount itself from acrylic (not clear in the photo)? It is certainly quite nice and definitely more finished than anything I can come up with for the moment. The old Lenco looks good. Wish I could get my hands on one.
The air bearing arms are very interesting and I do have some materials here to make one.
My "Nanook's $2.19" tone arm is very good and so easy, my dog could make it (and hers definitely would look better than mine '

stew
The straps that suspend the arm wand are 10mm polycarbonate, not acrylic.
The arm mount, i just got 2 bits of hard wood, cut a ^ on the top of one to mount the angle and cut a slot in it. The rear block has a bar running through to mount it to the TT and a bar that comes through the slot in the front block. Loosen the front wing nut and i can raise/lower/swivel the arm.
Not as nice as trans-fi's solution but as i say, its just a quick lash up.
The real TT/arm building starts next week 🙂
Lenco's are great, worth tracking down. They were sold under other names in the USA. Plenty of them in england.
The arm mount, i just got 2 bits of hard wood, cut a ^ on the top of one to mount the angle and cut a slot in it. The rear block has a bar running through to mount it to the TT and a bar that comes through the slot in the front block. Loosen the front wing nut and i can raise/lower/swivel the arm.
Not as nice as trans-fi's solution but as i say, its just a quick lash up.
The real TT/arm building starts next week 🙂
Lenco's are great, worth tracking down. They were sold under other names in the USA. Plenty of them in england.
Sugdens are relatively easy for me to find....
I re-plinthed one and have the bits for 2 others (thanks Dave)
I've looked around for Lencos, and always seem to end up finding the most $$$ ones!
stew
I re-plinthed one and have the bits for 2 others (thanks Dave)
I've looked around for Lencos, and always seem to end up finding the most $$$ ones!
stew
Hi Graeme,
It's the Arm, slider, holder, blade bits i am unsure of. i cant see from your photo how you made it? I think i get the Air bearing part, the slider floats on top?
Thanks
Ian
It's the Arm, slider, holder, blade bits i am unsure of. i cant see from your photo how you made it? I think i get the Air bearing part, the slider floats on top?
Thanks
Ian
How you make those is entirely up to you.
The slider is just another piece of aluminium angle, the straps are squares of 10mm lexan with square holes cut in the middle. I glues 2 bits of angle in the bottom of these for the blade to ride on.
I cut a block of hardwood, drilled a hole, pushed a carbon tube through with a clamping screw in the top. I then stuck a blade onto the wood block. Nothing technical here 🙂
Just look at all the pics on the trans fi site and you'll be able to work out whats needed.
The slider is just another piece of aluminium angle, the straps are squares of 10mm lexan with square holes cut in the middle. I glues 2 bits of angle in the bottom of these for the blade to ride on.
I cut a block of hardwood, drilled a hole, pushed a carbon tube through with a clamping screw in the top. I then stuck a blade onto the wood block. Nothing technical here 🙂
Just look at all the pics on the trans fi site and you'll be able to work out whats needed.
Howdy Graeme,
What type of pump is used? I can't see any mention of it on the site - apologies if I'm a bit of a blind git...
Cheers
Stuey
What type of pump is used? I can't see any mention of it on the site - apologies if I'm a bit of a blind git...
Cheers
Stuey
graeme uk said:where are you webby?
Thanks for the info Graeme, I will have to have a play. Do you have any other pictures, a thousand word and all that?
I live down sauf, south east London
cheers
Ian
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