I do not think to use a smaller diameter for the string realy...
what type of string do you use?
I use fishing line that I get from my cousin, him like fishing. ha ha
i have said to him, i want heavy line and him give me line dia 1 mm and 0.8mm.
because it uses a large string become large torsion too then I have difficulty in mounting bolt above. for that I give little bearing to avoid twisted. at now I see.
thank you for your opinion, be input how i must do.
regards
ed
Hi,
0,8mm diameter is definitely too thick...
Anything between 0,25 and 0,5mm can be made to work.
My thread holds 60kg and is less than 0,4mm in diameter...
The hole(s) should not allow the thread to "seat" in various positions. The exit point of the thread has to be perpendicular to the center of the bottom magnet.
Good luck,
Frank
0,8mm diameter is definitely too thick...
Anything between 0,25 and 0,5mm can be made to work.
My thread holds 60kg and is less than 0,4mm in diameter...
The hole(s) should not allow the thread to "seat" in various positions. The exit point of the thread has to be perpendicular to the center of the bottom magnet.
Good luck,
Frank
Hi,
All.. Thank you for help me , after finished so I tried. the results are not as good as I expected. movements somewhat constrained.
This is due using the line 0.8mm to large and large torque like .. zeon said ..
I rather difficult to design so that the line can be tied right in the hole position. too small and complicated. therefore I use my large and i clam the line with ball bearings and tighten by the pivot bolt as well as a magnetic iron ...
I m looking for line 0.25mm. For try out...
And Frank how binding line at the top. because I can not always be in the center of hole and twisted. therefore I give a small bearing to help.
This is also wrong giving bearing on the design Schroeder ?
Regards
ed
All.. Thank you for help me , after finished so I tried. the results are not as good as I expected. movements somewhat constrained.
This is due using the line 0.8mm to large and large torque like .. zeon said ..
I rather difficult to design so that the line can be tied right in the hole position. too small and complicated. therefore I use my large and i clam the line with ball bearings and tighten by the pivot bolt as well as a magnetic iron ...
I m looking for line 0.25mm. For try out...
And Frank how binding line at the top. because I can not always be in the center of hole and twisted. therefore I give a small bearing to help.
This is also wrong giving bearing on the design Schroeder ?
Regards
ed
Hi ed,
Make sure to pull the knot as tight as you can. Modern multifilament fishing lines are often surface-treated to increase their ability to glide through the rings of the fishing rod(for longer casts and less ring wear). Unfortunately, that means a knot can "slip",- or "wander" as well. Do not use super glue to fixate the knot, the line will break near that point sooner or later...
Try to make the hole for your thread as small as possible.
Cheers,
Frank
Make sure to pull the knot as tight as you can. Modern multifilament fishing lines are often surface-treated to increase their ability to glide through the rings of the fishing rod(for longer casts and less ring wear). Unfortunately, that means a knot can "slip",- or "wander" as well. Do not use super glue to fixate the knot, the line will break near that point sooner or later...
Try to make the hole for your thread as small as possible.
Cheers,
Frank
Hey guys! Im new here but have been looking to this forum for quite some time. I have really wanted to build a schroeder arm for about a month now and have been scouring the net for info onthem. Ive made a couple experimental test pieces and im jist about ready to start. I work in a machine shop so I also have access to just about any stock I would need. My only dilemma right now is figuring out the dimensions for the horizontal top support and the horizontal base to which the arm is suspended by. Did frank happen to help any one you with those dimensions or did you just make them up? I feel kinda dumb coming out and just asking for dimensions because I know frank doesnt want people to share his print but I sent him an email and havent heard anything back from him. Frank maybe you could chime in with your wisdom and help a guy out
Thank you all - wonderful thread!
Hi everyone. I just joined this thread to thank Mr. F. Schroeder for his support and spirit through the last 103 pages of this thread. He's been up at it since 2003 and I just admire his support of this amazing community.
Truth be told I'm still in awe by Luigi Fasulo's work (page 99). It's amazing and I salute him for his achievements. I've watched his youtube documentation of the process (a few times) and I still can't believe what one consistent talented man could achieve in just one year. It seems like he is a true artist and a very unique and persistent individual and he made me feel like wanting to shake his hand. I am a fan now.
There are quite a few more spectacular examples in the last 103 pages and it excellent read. Thank you all.
Tom
Hi everyone. I just joined this thread to thank Mr. F. Schroeder for his support and spirit through the last 103 pages of this thread. He's been up at it since 2003 and I just admire his support of this amazing community.
Truth be told I'm still in awe by Luigi Fasulo's work (page 99). It's amazing and I salute him for his achievements. I've watched his youtube documentation of the process (a few times) and I still can't believe what one consistent talented man could achieve in just one year. It seems like he is a true artist and a very unique and persistent individual and he made me feel like wanting to shake his hand. I am a fan now.
There are quite a few more spectacular examples in the last 103 pages and it excellent read. Thank you all.
Tom
I have just seen a 16.5 inch arm on YouTube. Would anyone like to guess at what length no offset really required? The technical answer is bound to be infinity. If it helps using a DL103 spherical to aid simplicity. Someone somewhere must have asked this question by doing it. As it is hard to see 1/4 mm erorr when the diamond slopes in at 20 or 15 degrees I have to question if even 5 % of turntables are really taking full advantage of the offset. As long as mass is OK the advatage might be zero bias compenstion required. The arm wires doing anything that might be needed. I also speculate that 16.5 inches would be OK with very standard bearings like a broken Linn LVV I have. As a pure stab in the dark I guess offset at 16.5 inch should be 6 degrees. To simplify calculations overhang 1 mm. If I get my sums right about 1.6 % distortion and average about 1 %.
I guess 12 degrees and 7 mm would be more usual. I suspect it would give about 1/0.7 % distortion. The question being could bias force be arm wires alone whilst being of a low friction or whatever? The simplicity of saying zero offset is interesting. I would sugest an arm stop if so.
What a lot of people seemd to have missed is they could make a very simple arm to rival most designs and be up and running in one day. To choose to clone the arm in question is the same game F1 cars play. In their case the regulations force that.
I guess 12 degrees and 7 mm would be more usual. I suspect it would give about 1/0.7 % distortion. The question being could bias force be arm wires alone whilst being of a low friction or whatever? The simplicity of saying zero offset is interesting. I would sugest an arm stop if so.
What a lot of people seemd to have missed is they could make a very simple arm to rival most designs and be up and running in one day. To choose to clone the arm in question is the same game F1 cars play. In their case the regulations force that.
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That was the point to ask a new question. Some people desperately would like to make a good arm with reduced problems at low cost. The 10 " arm by maths is not really any better than a 9 inch and a 12 inch marginally better than either. My quirky bit of maths sugests at 16.5 inches things do look to be possible. I must make a spread sheet and see what it says. As you might see 6 to 12 degrees says go for 12. 6 is a long way from zero which would be easier. After doing this I note most of what has been implied over the years is pure nonsense. Many will say the vast improvement in sound quality 12 inch arms offer is due to better distortion figures. This is simply nonsense. The real difference must be mass Maybe to have even more mass as the battle of low mass is lost. Thus the 12 inch arms were more ridged. Also pivot to diamond it a longer path. Thinking logically the 12 inch arm should only sound better when playing the more difficult angles. Not true. The SME 12 inch sounded better every moment. It is surprising how poor some SME 9 inch sound and how good the old SME 12 inch was. Nearly every part could be interchanged. Food for thought. The 16.5 inch arm with circa 12 degrees looks to be interesting. I have a 401 so took interest in this.
DIY Tonearm 16.5" playing piano test2 - youtube,youtuber,utube,youtub,youtubr,youtube music,unblock youtube,youtube videos,youtube to mp3,utube,youtub
DIY Tonearm 16.5" playing piano test2 - youtube,youtuber,utube,youtub,youtubr,youtube music,unblock youtube,youtube videos,youtube to mp3,utube,youtub
From the little Youtube allows it is a good sound. If you mean space in the sound that is what I hear.
People make violins. Some are very beautiful until it comes to the sound. That is a horrible risk if the sound was the thing you want. I would love a Cosworth V8 as used by James Hunt in a road car. If it gave 140 BHP I would be happy ( detuned ). It is just a thing of beauty and I am a rubbish driver. Others would be bitterly disapointed . If it says Cosworth it is 480 BHP, or forget it. I dare say just to be beautiful in looks is a very big victory ( your arm is beautiful ) . My idea is to get great sound with zero effort. I might just find a way.
People make violins. Some are very beautiful until it comes to the sound. That is a horrible risk if the sound was the thing you want. I would love a Cosworth V8 as used by James Hunt in a road car. If it gave 140 BHP I would be happy ( detuned ). It is just a thing of beauty and I am a rubbish driver. Others would be bitterly disapointed . If it says Cosworth it is 480 BHP, or forget it. I dare say just to be beautiful in looks is a very big victory ( your arm is beautiful ) . My idea is to get great sound with zero effort. I might just find a way.
few questions.
1) in pivoted tonearm as pivot is fixed and due to offset angle the tonearm is pulled towards the center. Which forces act upon linear tonearm so that it moves across the record ?
2) theoretically with regards to tracking error how much difference is between linear and pivoted tonearm ?
Regards
1) in pivoted tonearm as pivot is fixed and due to offset angle the tonearm is pulled towards the center. Which forces act upon linear tonearm so that it moves across the record ?
2) theoretically with regards to tracking error how much difference is between linear and pivoted tonearm ?
Regards