Diy PA speakers out of old car speakers

I'm not familiar with SAL audio products, but I see they include car speakers: https://familymarkt.hu/sal#content

For example, the image below shows a SAL "3-way car speaker with a diameter of 165 mm".

165 mm átmérőjű 3 utas autóhangszór

1736168307628.png


Are your similar looking drivers also from SAL, and are they also 165 mm in diameter?
 
So what is a best design for a box i was thinking to put like internal crossover at like 40-60hz so that u dont stress them that much.
That would depend on the actual speakers, I'm guessing you don't have access to the T/S parameters or a way of measuring them?(I wouldn't trust cheap car speakers factory specs anyway...).
Maybe stick to sealed boxes as ported will introduce a lot of complexity without using simulation software, make two test boxes from whatever materials you can cheaply get your hands on, make one with about 50litres then make one with say 40litres, mount a speaker in each one and feed them the same mono signal from a stereo amp(needs to be a reasonably powerful amp), use the balance to switch between the speakers and listen to the difference.
The treble will pretty much be the same its the lower mid to low bass where the difference will be, turn the volume up on the 50ltr box until you can hear it just starting to distort in the low bass region then switch it over to the smaller box.
If the smaller box isnt distorting but still has good bass output your heading in the right direction, if the bass has dropped off badly and starts to have a hollow sound stick with the 50ltr box(or bigger), if its ok cut the 50ltr box down to 30ltrs and start the test again drive the 40ltr box into bass starting to distort and switch it over to the smaller box see if you like that better.
You will find the bass will be very limited for PA work with car speakers unless you start adding dedicated subs with large cone area and big amps
 
P.S. Don't be fooled by the 110 W power rating of the WRX 316 drivers I illustrated above.

110 W will be the peak power rating. This is the maximum wattage a speaker can handle in very short, occasional bursts - perhaps only for a millisecond or two.

For PA use it is the continuous power rating that is important. This is the wattage that a speaker can comfortably handle for an extended period of time, like in a Disco. In the case of the above 165 mm driver that might only be 40 to 50 W.
 
I'm not familiar with SAL audio products, but I see they include car speakers: https://familymarkt.hu/sal#content

For example, the image below shows a SAL "3-way car speaker with a diameter of 165 mm".

165 mm átmérőjű 3 utas autóhangszór

View attachment 1403787

Are your similar looking drivers also from SAL, and are they also 165 mm in diameter?
Iveas thinking about spa series of those speakers. Like sal spa 4050
 
@Mica_antrnica

if you want to get most out of your drivers you can try put two per box into this corner coupled horn.

Ideally the drivers should be EQ'ed to be linear and put a filter of 24db below horn loading.

You would get an efficient system irrespective of the drivers. After filtering they could take much more watts. But its a horn especially to be loaded to the corner.

 
veas thinking about spa series of those speakers. Like sal spa 4050

Please supply links so we don't have to do the searching: https://www.polipmusic.hu/sal-spa-4050-8ohm-40cm-230160w-melysugarzo

1736182121774.png


Translation:

"The SPA 4050 subwoofer is excellently suited for both music listening and amplification purposes.

The device, equipped with an impregnated paper cone, has a musical power of 230/160 W, with a frequency response range of 30 – 3,000 Hz, while its sensitivity is 93 dB.

The voice coil, made of aluminium, provides adequate cooling. The weight of the magnet is 50 Oz. The diameter of the subwoofer is 400 mm."


This subwoofer will have a 15" cone.
 
@Mica_antrnica

if you want to get most out of your drivers you can try put two per box into this corner coupled horn.

Ideally the drivers should be EQ'ed to be linear and put a filter of 24db below horn loading.

You would get an efficient system irrespective of the drivers. After filtering they could take much more watts. But its a horn especially to be loaded to the corner.

Hmm interesting
 
P.S. Don't be fooled by the 110 W power rating of the WRX 316 drivers I illustrated above.

110 W will be the peak power rating. This is the maximum wattage a speaker can handle in very short, occasional bursts - perhaps only for a millisecond or two.

For PA use it is the continuous power rating that is important. This is the wattage that a speaker can comfortably handle for an extended period of time, like in a Disco. In the case of the above 165 mm driver that might only be 40 to 50 W.
I know now when i think why is this bad idea but yea my model is like 75w max so 50w-60w continues maybe i need to test that.
 
you can build the horn with a lightweight material.

Instead of DSP simply bass adjusting at the preamp will do and filtering the horn with 6db electrolytic like 600 to 800uF already helps reducing excursion for the frequencies below the horn loading.
 
@Galu I cant for some reason quote your comment. That is a bummer at that point there is no reason to run them with pa amp. So I was thinking that the box CL 110 Top MK II Link to the site are maybe a better start, in the comment on the thomann site everyone sad that for the prise that they are ok/good but better with sub.
 
run them with pa amp
IF you have a PA amp already, you can run those OK. Let me say as a loudspeaker engineer and sometime marketing ***** that speakers specifications like power handling are useless nonsense. And don't worry much about impedance. Really it works like this:
  • If you TURN IT DOWN when the sound gets bad, you will rarely have problems
  • If you leave the volume up into distorted sound, the speakers and/or amp WILL break. This is a problem for DJ use, since every DJ at least here in Los Angeles seems to want to play literally louder than rock concerts, and deafen everyone at the party and keep them from talking to each other. 😡
Those car speakers will play fairly loud but will NOT be able to play "disco loud" without blowing up.

If you do NOT already have a PA amp, don't buy that. Buy powered PA speakers like
https://www.sweetwater.com/c134--Powered_PA_Speakers?all&sb=low2high
You are in Serbia I think so not practical to order from Sweetwater but I post that as an illustration that powered speakers can have better value than buying separate amps and speakers. Maybe less expensive than buying an amp!
https://www.sweetwater.com/c455--Power_Amplifiers?all&sb=low2high

Ah, per your link, like these
https://www.thomannmusic.com/active...p=solr&category[]=PALPAF&cme=true&filter=true
You want at least a 10" or better yet 12" or 15" to put out louder bass without breaking. A bigger woofer will make a big difference and maybe not cost so much more. I like DJs when the voice of the music is not too loud so I can talk to people but the bass shelved up to have a good vibe. Note that none of these speakers are designed to put out super super low bass like movie effects or some EDM maybe, but for music should be fine.
 
I cant for some reason quote your comment.

There's no need to quote my comment if your post follows directly after my post.

In fact, the site prevents you from quoting the post directly above so as not to clog up the thread with unnecessary quotes.

The CL 110 Top MK II passive speakers containing a 10" woofer and compression tweeter are certainly a step in the right direction.

P.S. That's good advice from head_unit regarding buying active speakers, preferably ones with large woofers.
 
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@Galu @head_unit oh i didn't know that about forum. And the think is the used market for pa amps in serbia is for some reason pretty good. And that why I am going twords passive system and I dont think that i am going to do some big gigs so 10inch and subs will do the trick but still not 100% sure if it was going to be like that.