Hi, guys!
I have several questions about lamp and ballast in Sharp XV-Z100 projector. I've bought one (used) for $100 especially for DIY experiments, but bulb is completely destroyed including electrodes (reflector and UV-filter are OK). Manual says it was a SHP DC 275W lamp (AN-100LP), internal ballast seems to be DC too (output power rectifiers and polarity signs on lamp wires), but I cannot test working voltage without lamp. May be somebody knows (or can measure) working voltage and current of this original lamp?
Another question is about using AC lamp with DC ballast. I can buy cheap HCI or HSI 250W lamps, remove burners from UV-filter glass and insert burner into Sharp reflector (I made this once with success with Toshiba 38D9UX RPTV), but these lamps are AC. I know life of the mercury lamp with incorrect type of power source will be considerably shorter (small AC electrode in anode mode will be destroyed much quicker), but how shorter in numbers? XV-Z100 is compact, ballast PCB is a part of main PSU PCB and removing ballast part of PCB for replacing it with AC ballast is too complex to be fun. 🙂
My last questionis personally for ywh - can you send some of your cheap lamps to Russia? Which variants of paymet you're accepting?
I have several questions about lamp and ballast in Sharp XV-Z100 projector. I've bought one (used) for $100 especially for DIY experiments, but bulb is completely destroyed including electrodes (reflector and UV-filter are OK). Manual says it was a SHP DC 275W lamp (AN-100LP), internal ballast seems to be DC too (output power rectifiers and polarity signs on lamp wires), but I cannot test working voltage without lamp. May be somebody knows (or can measure) working voltage and current of this original lamp?
Another question is about using AC lamp with DC ballast. I can buy cheap HCI or HSI 250W lamps, remove burners from UV-filter glass and insert burner into Sharp reflector (I made this once with success with Toshiba 38D9UX RPTV), but these lamps are AC. I know life of the mercury lamp with incorrect type of power source will be considerably shorter (small AC electrode in anode mode will be destroyed much quicker), but how shorter in numbers? XV-Z100 is compact, ballast PCB is a part of main PSU PCB and removing ballast part of PCB for replacing it with AC ballast is too complex to be fun. 🙂
My last questionis personally for ywh - can you send some of your cheap lamps to Russia? Which variants of paymet you're accepting?
Hi Gleb !
can you show some pictures of you ballast? I can find some shing to test it maybe
burner of 150w HQI is too large. you will lost many brightness in reflector. AC bulb can not run in DC ballast, very short life
I can send to cheap lamps to Russia. price is $40 each.shipping is $5.
I can take moneybookers and paypal
dont forget fee of paypal.
can you show some pictures of you ballast? I can find some shing to test it maybe
burner of 150w HQI is too large. you will lost many brightness in reflector. AC bulb can not run in DC ballast, very short life
I can send to cheap lamps to Russia. price is $40 each.shipping is $5.
I can take moneybookers and paypal
dont forget fee of paypal.
Thank you for quick reply! 🙂
You can see the ballast part of PSU PCB on attached image. Converter uses two 2SK2699 MOSFET's, a single Schottky diode (probably 60V 10A - I'm unable to find exact datasheet) and two high voltage diodes FMV-G2G (6A 1700V) near output section. I can completely remove the board and investigate schematics if you wish, but it seems that this is an ordinary PWM DC-DC with push-pull output stage, сontrolled by a proprietary Sharp chip. I don't see on this board a sort of sealed high voltage ignition module like in my Toshiba RPTV and lamp wires are simply soldered to PCB (pink and white wires at the bottom) so may be ignition voltage for this lamp is not too high.
I don't know how PayPal service works with russian credit cards, but if they are allowed, I definitely try to buy two chinese DC lamps from your shop. 🙂 I'll check this tomorrow.
P.S.: sorry for my clumsy english - I'm more reader then writer. %)
You can see the ballast part of PSU PCB on attached image. Converter uses two 2SK2699 MOSFET's, a single Schottky diode (probably 60V 10A - I'm unable to find exact datasheet) and two high voltage diodes FMV-G2G (6A 1700V) near output section. I can completely remove the board and investigate schematics if you wish, but it seems that this is an ordinary PWM DC-DC with push-pull output stage, сontrolled by a proprietary Sharp chip. I don't see on this board a sort of sealed high voltage ignition module like in my Toshiba RPTV and lamp wires are simply soldered to PCB (pink and white wires at the bottom) so may be ignition voltage for this lamp is not too high.
I don't know how PayPal service works with russian credit cards, but if they are allowed, I definitely try to buy two chinese DC lamps from your shop. 🙂 I'll check this tomorrow.
P.S.: sorry for my clumsy english - I'm more reader then writer. %)
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Hi again, ywh!
I didn't mention it before: lamp's backplate has a embossed type on it - "SHP93 RLMPFA024WJ". This may be useful for correct lamp identification.
I didn't mention it before: lamp's backplate has a embossed type on it - "SHP93 RLMPFA024WJ". This may be useful for correct lamp identification.
Can you find suitable lamp for my PJ in your treasure room of bulbs? 😉 If yes, I will buy one or two DC lamps (price dependent - if it's $40 per bulb, then two, if $80 - then one), then I'll try to make a new international credit card next week and send you money via PayPal.
My VISA card quest is still in progress, so I try to entertain myself with reverse engeneering. 🙂 May be this info will be useful for others. If you need to disable ballast lamp check in Sharp DT100 projector, you will need a 220 Ohm resistor (or other one with similar resistance). You must solder it between pin 13 on "EA" connector (connects the mainboard to the power supply) and ground. I added a picture with this connector and mark the correct pin on it. It works perfect in my case, may be it will work on most Sharp projectors with the same chassis and case.
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I continue to post various stuff about my experiments that perharps can be useful to others. I have tested various light sources in original reflector: two types of simple galogen bulbs and HQI burner with external ballast. Yes, spot size really matters for DLP optical systems! Optimal justified 12V 45w halogen bulb with small heating coil looks only half bright compared to 70W MH lamp with big 8-9 mm arc (although both are too dim for normal usage). MH lamp overdrive (~130W) helps, but not too much - the arc is mostly out of focus.
After that I try to connect now useless AC HQI burner to original DC ballast (yes, ywh says it's a bad idea, but I like experiments 😀 ) and watch how fast it fails. Ballast was in low power mode (probably ~200W - nominal is 270). One of the electrodes was melted by the big startup current very quickly (15-20 seconds) and I prefer to shut down the projector before the lamp explodes. I think that main problem with AC lamps on DC ballasts is not the the DC supply itself, but the huge startup current at the fast warming-up sequence on most PJ ballasts. Later I will try to use a sort of constant current mode on AC lamp with DC supply as experiment (and - may be - to destroy another burner 😀 ). Below are some photos of the melted burner.
After that I try to connect now useless AC HQI burner to original DC ballast (yes, ywh says it's a bad idea, but I like experiments 😀 ) and watch how fast it fails. Ballast was in low power mode (probably ~200W - nominal is 270). One of the electrodes was melted by the big startup current very quickly (15-20 seconds) and I prefer to shut down the projector before the lamp explodes. I think that main problem with AC lamps on DC ballasts is not the the DC supply itself, but the huge startup current at the fast warming-up sequence on most PJ ballasts. Later I will try to use a sort of constant current mode on AC lamp with DC supply as experiment (and - may be - to destroy another burner 😀 ). Below are some photos of the melted burner.
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Hello, Gleb! I have Sharp XV-Z100 (DT100) I'd like to speek with you!
jvcapital@mail.ru skype oleonis icq 340995178
jvcapital@mail.ru skype oleonis icq 340995178
I have not too much time for experiments right now, but I can make a little update. Now I have a service manual for Sharp XR10S with complete schematics (pretty much the same unit, but with other DMD chip) and can make some useful research. You can adjust lamp current with R905 (see included picture); bigger value means lower power. Microcontroller uses two feedbacks for keeping lamp power constant: voltage (VL pin on daugtherboard connector) and current (IL pin). When lamp current increases, voltage drop on sensing resistor increases and microcontroller decreases PWM power supply target voltage. After increasing resistance from .05 Ohm to 0.1 Ohm I was able to connect 70W HQI bulb to projector and lamp works well about 1.5 hours without significant anode damage (I think that lamp works at ~100W-130W - I vorget to measure). Brightness is bad, for sure, but... (tadaaa!) ...AC lamp works from DC source! 🙂 More crazy engeneering stuff is on the way. %)
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Another update. 🙂 I have made a simple soft-start block for ballast unit: 40 seconds delay at 70% current before lamp recieves normal power - this helps preventing anode melting. It uses current sense resistor relay switch, controlled by Lamp Lit and Eco Mode signals. This is not the best way to control the lamp startup power, but the other solution (with additional optocouplers and dynamic OPA feedback adjustment) is more complicated due to inconvenient construction of the PSU controller daughterboard. Now the lamp (70W nominal) starts with 100 watts and later (after 40 seconds delay) recieves either 140W (eco mode) or 175W (bright mode). At this time the lamp current already drops to 1-2 amps and extensive anode melting is unlikely.
Now I can say, that the dark room projector performance is at last acceptable in most cases. 🙂 The "ambient light" (two 60 watt incadescent bulbs) performance can be evaluated on attached photo (at the left bottom corner). The most interesting question (overdriven lamp life) remais unanswered for a while. %)
Now I can say, that the dark room projector performance is at last acceptable in most cases. 🙂 The "ambient light" (two 60 watt incadescent bulbs) performance can be evaluated on attached photo (at the left bottom corner). The most interesting question (overdriven lamp life) remais unanswered for a while. %)
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xr-10x replacement bulb
i was sent here looking for a replacement bulb for a sharp xr-10x projector. i don't want to replace the whole chassis, just the bulb. can anyone help me out?
i was sent here looking for a replacement bulb for a sharp xr-10x projector. i don't want to replace the whole chassis, just the bulb. can anyone help me out?
After many unsuccessful experiments with different AC lamps connected to Sharp's DC ballast (too short lifetime), I have decieded to use the burner from ywh - it works great, like original lamp. 🙂
Hello to all, new in the forum, read your discussion about t DT-100 lamp.
Mi projector lamp is dead after ~700hrs.
I'm looking for a cheap working solution.
Please shed some lights on this if you can.
Thanks
Mi projector lamp is dead after ~700hrs.
I'm looking for a cheap working solution.
Please shed some lights on this if you can.
Thanks
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