hi guys,
hope everyone had a good christmas and new year!. now the amps turned up i need to pull my finger out and get all the other components to build this. getting the tangband 5 1/4 subwoofer friom the mrs as a anniversary present and also a passive radiator thinking about this one...
Dayton Audio DSA175-PR 6-1/2" Designer Series Aluminum Cone Passive Radiator
Dayton Audio DSA175-PR 6-1/2" Designer Series Aluminum Cone Passive Radiator - SoundImports
the only other thing is the full range drivers would decent 4 inch drivers be suffice?
look forward to hearing your sugggestions.
hope everyone had a good christmas and new year!. now the amps turned up i need to pull my finger out and get all the other components to build this. getting the tangband 5 1/4 subwoofer friom the mrs as a anniversary present and also a passive radiator thinking about this one...
Dayton Audio DSA175-PR 6-1/2" Designer Series Aluminum Cone Passive Radiator
Dayton Audio DSA175-PR 6-1/2" Designer Series Aluminum Cone Passive Radiator - SoundImports
the only other thing is the full range drivers would decent 4 inch drivers be suffice?
look forward to hearing your sugggestions.
Ah yeah I just found your thread you put up about it. Would the 8 inch not work or would I be better with two 6inch out each side?
Ofcourse then there wont be any reason for the subchannel and the fullrangeres wont be relieved from bass-duty
Seeing as I've got that amp now guerrilla would like to carry on as is. Just powered it up and connected some old car speakers I had laying around and really impressed with it. It's going to be a struggle to squeeze it all in. I'm wondering is I could go to some 3 -3.5" full rangers of decent quality would make it all easier to squeeze in.
I think you would be better off using (2) passive radiators actually. In my sub the small size combined with relatively large passive + mass makes it move around quite a bit on a hard surface. Seems okay on carpet, but that makes me wonder how much energy is lost just vibrating the whole box back and forth. If you do opposing passive radiators it would cancel out the issue that I am having, leaving you with a box that does not want to walk away!
Ah okay. I think for bow I'm going to build a sealed box and see how I go with that. The radiators could be added at a later date
Fun project. It would be nice to keep the case totally intact so you just open the lid when it's in use. Love the idea of being able to use battery tool battery to power it too.
Re driver size would smaller drivers stacked behind each other (Isobarik) deliver the sound required whilst being more compact?
Linn Isobarik - Wikipedia
Would let you keep a sealed box and according to wikipedia effectively doubles the size of the cabinet.
Expanding foam between the outside of the case and the MDF inside would damp things enough without making it super heavy.
Have fun
Re driver size would smaller drivers stacked behind each other (Isobarik) deliver the sound required whilst being more compact?
Linn Isobarik - Wikipedia
Would let you keep a sealed box and according to wikipedia effectively doubles the size of the cabinet.
Expanding foam between the outside of the case and the MDF inside would damp things enough without making it super heavy.
Have fun
Got these ordered today
So only a few little bits left to get ordered and once all has arrived can start building it
So only a few little bits left to get ordered and once all has arrived can start building it
hi guys
been doing a lot of searching last couple of nights in relation to the enclosure design for the sub ive come across this design by paul carmody
im planning to use this design minus the drivers to the side as with how the box is designed i dont have the width to do it. i can get just under 14" in width but need to drop the 8 inches down a tad an extend the box back a bit. for the 4 inch full range drivers ive got coming i was going to go with some 110mm waste pipe with sealed ends to take the drivers which will sit ontop of the sub enclosure.
im going to build the ply box that goes inside the tool case first and see how it sounds before i start mullering the box fitting it all inside.
in pauls write up of the build he mentions that the sealed enclosures for the drivers are about 1 litre each. should i just re jig the box minus the 2 litres for the drivers? he mentions that the sub enclosure has around 6 litres plus whatever the port etc works out at. when you work out the total volume of the box from his dimensions comes out around 12 litres take off 2 for the sealed enclosures leaves you 10 so are the other 4 litres allowance for the port and the amp etc or am i totally misunderstanding the whole thing
many thanks
paddee
been doing a lot of searching last couple of nights in relation to the enclosure design for the sub ive come across this design by paul carmody
im planning to use this design minus the drivers to the side as with how the box is designed i dont have the width to do it. i can get just under 14" in width but need to drop the 8 inches down a tad an extend the box back a bit. for the 4 inch full range drivers ive got coming i was going to go with some 110mm waste pipe with sealed ends to take the drivers which will sit ontop of the sub enclosure.
im going to build the ply box that goes inside the tool case first and see how it sounds before i start mullering the box fitting it all inside.
in pauls write up of the build he mentions that the sealed enclosures for the drivers are about 1 litre each. should i just re jig the box minus the 2 litres for the drivers? he mentions that the sub enclosure has around 6 litres plus whatever the port etc works out at. when you work out the total volume of the box from his dimensions comes out around 12 litres take off 2 for the sealed enclosures leaves you 10 so are the other 4 litres allowance for the port and the amp etc or am i totally misunderstanding the whole thing
many thanks
paddee
Made a start last night.
Starter to deaden the box
Hoping the speakers turn up this week, in the mean time I need to squire the 12mm plywood today and hopefully start building the inside box tonight.
Thanks
Paddee
Starter to deaden the box
Hoping the speakers turn up this week, in the mean time I need to squire the 12mm plywood today and hopefully start building the inside box tonight.
Thanks
Paddee
Hello
The battery turned up today I ended up staying off work as I was ill so manget to get it all together still some tweaks needed.
Thanks again guys for all your help!
The battery turned up today I ended up staying off work as I was ill so manget to get it all together still some tweaks needed.
Thanks again guys for all your help!
It don't sound too bad can't go to high with the gain on the sub. Not sure if a port would help out or not. None the less it's way more bassier than my current site radio which is what I initially set out to do.
The box shouldn't be shared by all the speakers.
Try to put a cup ( a vase ) behind the stereo drivers, and use some absorbent inside; make them without leaks.
Try to put a cup ( a vase ) behind the stereo drivers, and use some absorbent inside; make them without leaks.
They don't all share the same box the sub has it's own enclosure and some fibreglass inslaruion stuffed in for the time being. The drivers I'm keeping am eye out for some plastic pipe the right size to close them up with.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.