DIY heatsinks

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just a test

this is just a test on the copper frame i want to use for my point to point or fake bcb, call it what you want.
i hope it gives you guys a good idea of what i am going to do.
 

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the plumber left a rol of copper wire, that is not something a plumper in holland would use, that is more the material of an electrician.

but stil, use it. point to point can be a work of art if done right.

what is in you picture is also beautiful, i wonder where the copper strip is coming from.
 
Relieved to see that the Dutchies got it figured out! As a semi-Swede myself, I always thought that chef sounded Norwegian...

OK, so I read this entire thread and thought I would collect all the 'log cabin' style heat sink pics here:
 

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norwegian???? could be right to, i don't understand either swedish or norwegian, sorry.

getting back to the diy heatsinks, i like the style of the blue ones in the last picture.
relatively easy to make to. make that out of copper and i think it will be a little monster.
 
best data for a newbie

Cool thread... ;-)

What I gained from reading it is that tall heatsinks are better heatsinks.

The original poster was looking for cheap so consider taller ones to save on material and if you don't have money you'll need a lot of patience.

For myself, I had to wait until I had a day off from work, in the middle of the week so I could travel to the recycler and that's after I found a recycler on the phone who would allow me to rummage through their bins of separated material. They cull out heat sinks from computers and other commercial electronics. I also found some huge corner brackets made of 10mm aluminum. I'll be attaching some 24# (10Kg) of those smaller heatsinks from smaller devices to those large corner brackets to form the basic structure of my Aleph J build.

Patience will be rewarded.

I will post pictures when I have made them look as pretty as I can, in the meantime anyone looking for cheap will have to start making phone calls...
 
I think you misread that, jdg. Wider heat sinks are more efficient, at least for extrusions. For example if your profile is rated at .5C/W at 3" tall, a 6" section will be on the order of .3C/W not the .25C/W that you might expect. Of course if you can't get the width you need to get the required dissipation go taller.

Many of the DIY heat sinks have conductivity issues across their width because of the joints in their assembly. This may be why you see that the DIY sinks do better taller.

Overall efficiency also depends on the heat distribution. If a single source and not enough base thickness taller might be more efficient. With multiple sources spaced out, wider is more efficient.
 
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I was devastated at work this week. In the factory we use LOADS of Static Power Invertors which have absolutely MASSIVE heatsinks. They fail regularly and just get thrown away. During my hunt to find a supervisor to raise the required paperwork so that I could requisition a few from the skip, the skip lorry turned up. GUTTED.

Lesson to learn though. BIG heatsinks are often used in industry and can often be sourced as scrap for pennies.

Scrap CPU heatsinks from computers are good but it's often difficult to source enough that are the same in order to get a pleasing finished product.
 
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...What I gained from reading it is that tall heatsinks are better heatsinks....
This statement is generally considered to be incorrect 🙁 Taller than about 6" tends to loose effectiveness quickly. Longer is what you want. Try reading the data sheets from major heat sink mfgs. Fins mounted in the vertical direction up to about 150mm tall are the most effective. 200mm is a common maximum size and as tall as I have ever used. Some styles will dictate using 2 side by side which would be much more effective than 1 300-400mm tall heat sink. 😀

Edit: guess I wasn't quick enough at the draw...
 
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