Man I suck at this!
2 nights ago I filled up both the oil and water lenses. The oil lens looked ok, but the water one had a leak in it. So I put the oil one aside, emptied out the water lens and put it aside overnight so it could dry off and I could put more glue on.
Yesterday mornining I re-applied some silicone sealant over the leak and went to work. When I got home I filled put some water in, sloshed it around and it looked like I fixed the leak. So I filled it with water and put it aside, letting it sit to see if there were any slow leaks.
I sat down and watched an episode of The Sopranos, when I came back to check the water lens, the damn thing was completely empty.
This is the 4th water lens I've tried to make that leaked. I think it's time I bought some new sealant. The kind I'm using is Loctyte stuff I bought at a hardware store, can anyone suggest some quality brand names? Or is there a rating of strength or something that I should go by?
Tony
2 nights ago I filled up both the oil and water lenses. The oil lens looked ok, but the water one had a leak in it. So I put the oil one aside, emptied out the water lens and put it aside overnight so it could dry off and I could put more glue on.
Yesterday mornining I re-applied some silicone sealant over the leak and went to work. When I got home I filled put some water in, sloshed it around and it looked like I fixed the leak. So I filled it with water and put it aside, letting it sit to see if there were any slow leaks.
I sat down and watched an episode of The Sopranos, when I came back to check the water lens, the damn thing was completely empty.
This is the 4th water lens I've tried to make that leaked. I think it's time I bought some new sealant. The kind I'm using is Loctyte stuff I bought at a hardware store, can anyone suggest some quality brand names? Or is there a rating of strength or something that I should go by?
Tony
Tony, I just called my plastic shop and asked what the heck the stuff was that I used. It's called "E-6000" bonding material.
Take a look at this link and scroll down or search for "E-6000" to show you the bottle.
http://a2zfree.net/a/adhesive.htm
Go to yp.yahoo.com and do a search for plastic shops in your area, call them, and ask them if they have this stuff.
Take a look at this link and scroll down or search for "E-6000" to show you the bottle.
http://a2zfree.net/a/adhesive.htm
Go to yp.yahoo.com and do a search for plastic shops in your area, call them, and ask them if they have this stuff.
Ok, thanks Jude. I've seen that stuff before. They have it at the craft store where I've been buying my picture frames.
Warning: The following post is pretty much a newbie post. Skip if you'll get annoyed. 🙄
Hey,
I'm new to making an anamorphic lens, I still am yet to know the basics of it, etc. I know what it does, but not too sure how it does it. I had a thought, probably wouldnt work, but a thought nontheless, that I could make a glass container, or if I'm right in calling it this, a prism, that at one end had a 4:3 ratio, and the other had 16:9, and then fill it with water. Would this stretch the image succesfully? Or no?
The thing is that I dont really have much of an idea how to make one. I've seen your site Tor, but it's still a bit tricky to comprehend for me 😕
Could someone please direct me to a simple diagram on how it works or something?
I researched a bit, but only on making my computer display correctly for such a project. Theatretek was recommended for my DVDs/DivX, but is unfortunatley out of my price range (I can make 16:9 productions full screen without any trouble, but it's the 4:3 productions that I'm pretty clueless about). I posted on AVSforum and was told that when it comes to 4:3 games/programs, etc. I'm stuffed. This true?
Thanks alot 🙂
Hey,
I'm new to making an anamorphic lens, I still am yet to know the basics of it, etc. I know what it does, but not too sure how it does it. I had a thought, probably wouldnt work, but a thought nontheless, that I could make a glass container, or if I'm right in calling it this, a prism, that at one end had a 4:3 ratio, and the other had 16:9, and then fill it with water. Would this stretch the image succesfully? Or no?
The thing is that I dont really have much of an idea how to make one. I've seen your site Tor, but it's still a bit tricky to comprehend for me 😕
Could someone please direct me to a simple diagram on how it works or something?
I researched a bit, but only on making my computer display correctly for such a project. Theatretek was recommended for my DVDs/DivX, but is unfortunatley out of my price range (I can make 16:9 productions full screen without any trouble, but it's the 4:3 productions that I'm pretty clueless about). I posted on AVSforum and was told that when it comes to 4:3 games/programs, etc. I'm stuffed. This true?
Thanks alot 🙂
Don't worry about asking newbie questions, most of us were there at some point, except for maybe Tor and DeCinema, who seemed to have a natural understanding of it very quickly.
I'm not sure I understand all of your questions but in a very basic outline:
1. The prism is designed to compress (or expand) a projector image. In most cases those who use it, compress a 4:3 image to 16:9 so you can use all the pixels of your projector.
2. You must construct 2 separate prisms (hollow containers) in which one you fill with water, and the other with mineral/turpentine oil.
3. These prisms must be large enough to allow the image from your projector to pass through both of them.
4. The triangular sides of the prisms MUST be at 30 degrees (water) and 24 degrees (oil).
5. The Front and back sides of both prisms (where the image passes through) must be transparent, clear glass or acryllic. The other sides can be anything.
Not sure about your 4:3 question and gaming. I'll guess that you're asking about squashing 4:3 into 16:9 in the area of games, and the game would therefore be distorted? As I see it you have two options:
1. Play the games squashed (it really doesn't distort 4:3 material so sharply that things look too mis-shaped in my opinion, so you should try it and see if it's unbearable or not)
2. Assuming you're using a PC to play your games on, re-size/re-scale your output using a utility on your PC which makes the normally 4:3 image taller & skinnier... then, the lense will squash it back down to 4:3 scale again. If and when you get to that point, some of us can offer some help in this regard.
I'm not sure I understand all of your questions but in a very basic outline:
1. The prism is designed to compress (or expand) a projector image. In most cases those who use it, compress a 4:3 image to 16:9 so you can use all the pixels of your projector.
2. You must construct 2 separate prisms (hollow containers) in which one you fill with water, and the other with mineral/turpentine oil.
3. These prisms must be large enough to allow the image from your projector to pass through both of them.
4. The triangular sides of the prisms MUST be at 30 degrees (water) and 24 degrees (oil).
5. The Front and back sides of both prisms (where the image passes through) must be transparent, clear glass or acryllic. The other sides can be anything.
Not sure about your 4:3 question and gaming. I'll guess that you're asking about squashing 4:3 into 16:9 in the area of games, and the game would therefore be distorted? As I see it you have two options:
1. Play the games squashed (it really doesn't distort 4:3 material so sharply that things look too mis-shaped in my opinion, so you should try it and see if it's unbearable or not)
2. Assuming you're using a PC to play your games on, re-size/re-scale your output using a utility on your PC which makes the normally 4:3 image taller & skinnier... then, the lense will squash it back down to 4:3 scale again. If and when you get to that point, some of us can offer some help in this regard.
mikekniner
As far as I understand it....when executed properly it gives you an AWESOME 16:9 projected image. I'm dying to try building one but still have a few changes to go through with my PJ before I go to the trouble of constructing a precission set of prism's.
.......wondering if the "anamorphic GURU's" can tell me if there are size limitations? I have a VERY large lens on the way to play with....
zardoz
As far as I understand it....when executed properly it gives you an AWESOME 16:9 projected image. I'm dying to try building one but still have a few changes to go through with my PJ before I go to the trouble of constructing a precission set of prism's.
.......wondering if the "anamorphic GURU's" can tell me if there are size limitations? I have a VERY large lens on the way to play with....
zardoz
Sort of - A given set of prisms can only compress/expand a certain amount. The most common lenses take 4:3 and either compress it vertically or expand it horizontally to 16:9.
The same prisms would take 16:9 and further compress it to something else, but if you wanted to compress from 4:3 to 2.35:1, for example, you'd need prisms with different angles.
The advantage, as mentioned before, is that you can use all the pixels available on your projector. For example, on a 1280x1024 projector displaying a 1080i HDTV image (1920x1080), without an anamorphic lens you'd have to scale it to 1280x720 to preserve the aspect ratio. With an anamorphic lens, you can scale it to 1280x1024, and then compress the 1024 pixels optically to display in the space that 720 pixels normally would.
Extra advantages to this are that all of the light output of the projector is concentrated into the 16:9 area as opposed to 30% or more of the light going to waste being absorbed by black bars.
The same prisms would take 16:9 and further compress it to something else, but if you wanted to compress from 4:3 to 2.35:1, for example, you'd need prisms with different angles.
The advantage, as mentioned before, is that you can use all the pixels available on your projector. For example, on a 1280x1024 projector displaying a 1080i HDTV image (1920x1080), without an anamorphic lens you'd have to scale it to 1280x720 to preserve the aspect ratio. With an anamorphic lens, you can scale it to 1280x1024, and then compress the 1024 pixels optically to display in the space that 720 pixels normally would.
Extra advantages to this are that all of the light output of the projector is concentrated into the 16:9 area as opposed to 30% or more of the light going to waste being absorbed by black bars.
Entropy, do you mean that the angles of the prisms relative to one another and to the projector would need to change, or that the angles of the sides of the prisms themselves need to change, or both. If the latter, to you happen to know the angles of the prism sides? No one has been able to provide these that I'm aware of.
The question remains...is there a limit to the size of lens that an anamorphic can cover? I have a lens on the way that is 9 inchs across, I may have no use for it at all..but if it works out I'd like to consider an anamorphic. Even if the big lens doesnt work out I will be building an anamorphic for my 3M 9550.
zardoz
zardoz
I don't think there's an actual limit, but with a 9" lens, construction would not be an easy task... You'd need a HUGE anamorphic lens.
As far as the angles - Angles for a 4:3 to 16:9 conversion are near the beginning of this thread I think (At the very least there's a link to thaustvelt's page somewhere, which does have the angles.)
Angles for other conversions - Don't know them, don't know the rules for calculating them, although I think people earlier in this thread mentioned some sort of spreadsheet that might do the calculations for you? The most important is the angles of the prisms themselves, secondary is their orientation with relation to each other I believe.
As far as the angles - Angles for a 4:3 to 16:9 conversion are near the beginning of this thread I think (At the very least there's a link to thaustvelt's page somewhere, which does have the angles.)
Angles for other conversions - Don't know them, don't know the rules for calculating them, although I think people earlier in this thread mentioned some sort of spreadsheet that might do the calculations for you? The most important is the angles of the prisms themselves, secondary is their orientation with relation to each other I believe.
hi all
hi all,
first of all i've got to mention i am from germany so i apologize for my bad english at first...
i am originally in the diy projector forum, there arne posted a link to this forum so i saw this thread two weeks ago. I said man thats what i need: more light and more resolution. I posted some pics of my anamorphic lens...
I tried another version: both prismas filled with oil.
Glycerin it is called in German... works really good.
Sorry but i can't show you projected pics because my diy projector is not finished yet...
but i took a picture where i took the anamorph in front of the tv; you can see the effect there...
i used aquarium silicon for the inside of the prismas, you can see it on the photos...
hi all,
first of all i've got to mention i am from germany so i apologize for my bad english at first...
i am originally in the diy projector forum, there arne posted a link to this forum so i saw this thread two weeks ago. I said man thats what i need: more light and more resolution. I posted some pics of my anamorphic lens...
I tried another version: both prismas filled with oil.
Glycerin it is called in German... works really good.
Sorry but i can't show you projected pics because my diy projector is not finished yet...
but i took a picture where i took the anamorph in front of the tv; you can see the effect there...
i used aquarium silicon for the inside of the prismas, you can see it on the photos...
Attachments
try this:
both prisms filled with glycerin oil. you can get it in every drugstore. The angles and so on are discribed on jochen's heimkino site.
1.Prism: top down, top angle = 26°, rotation 25,6°, top away from lense
2.Prism: top up, top angle = 20,5°, rotation 26°, top away from lense
the glycerin won't attack the glue. additionally i filled the inside edges with silicon for aquariums. I have my two prism now for 5 days and still no oil is cumming out and it works great.
both prisms filled with glycerin oil. you can get it in every drugstore. The angles and so on are discribed on jochen's heimkino site.
1.Prism: top down, top angle = 26°, rotation 25,6°, top away from lense
2.Prism: top up, top angle = 20,5°, rotation 26°, top away from lense
the glycerin won't attack the glue. additionally i filled the inside edges with silicon for aquariums. I have my two prism now for 5 days and still no oil is cumming out and it works great.
slize -- Please post your results with both prisms using oil/glycerine!!! Does it serve any big benefit that you can see by not using water? Did you change anythign else about the prisms using glycerine in both?
I had heard you had to have one with water and the other with oil to correct "chromatic abberation" (re-aligns the colors).
I had heard you had to have one with water and the other with oil to correct "chromatic abberation" (re-aligns the colors).
hi jude,
to see results please go on the previous page i posted pictures there.
you see the first picture: that is where i took a photo through my anamorph holding it in front of the tv. the same will happen with the projected images. the next picture is taken without the anamorph. Do you see the difference?
sorry that the anamorphed picture is not in a line. but it was hard to have the camera in one hand and the anamorph in the ohter and to take a picture. if you will fix it in front of your projector it will be fine.
The main advantage to water is that the glycerine oil won't get dirty. Just like in an aquarium the water will get dirty after a time.
And the terpentine oil attacks the glue and the silicon so the prism will loose water and oil after a time.
The glycerine oil doesn't and won't get dirty for a long long time...
To see results please go on the previous page, i posted pictures there. Above i also posted the angles you will need for booth prismas.
to see results please go on the previous page i posted pictures there.
you see the first picture: that is where i took a photo through my anamorph holding it in front of the tv. the same will happen with the projected images. the next picture is taken without the anamorph. Do you see the difference?
sorry that the anamorphed picture is not in a line. but it was hard to have the camera in one hand and the anamorph in the ohter and to take a picture. if you will fix it in front of your projector it will be fine.
The main advantage to water is that the glycerine oil won't get dirty. Just like in an aquarium the water will get dirty after a time.
And the terpentine oil attacks the glue and the silicon so the prism will loose water and oil after a time.
The glycerine oil doesn't and won't get dirty for a long long time...
To see results please go on the previous page, i posted pictures there. Above i also posted the angles you will need for booth prismas.
the color problem is not to solve through the water and terpentine oil prisma in general.
the fact is one prisma always splits up the colors. you will always need a second to fit them together.
it is not imptortant what's in the prismas but the angles of the prismas itself and to one another are important.
I already mentioned the angles of the prismas itself with glycerine oil above. And the angles to one another too.
But with the angles between the two prismas you can experiment it is different from projector to projector.
You can see on the first picture there is blue line on the arm. that is just because i didn't fix the prismas correct there about 1° or 2° to far...
If the angles are correct it will work very good. But i'll do that by the time my "do it yourself projector" is finished... then i will post projected anamorphed pictures...
the fact is one prisma always splits up the colors. you will always need a second to fit them together.
it is not imptortant what's in the prismas but the angles of the prismas itself and to one another are important.
I already mentioned the angles of the prismas itself with glycerine oil above. And the angles to one another too.
But with the angles between the two prismas you can experiment it is different from projector to projector.
You can see on the first picture there is blue line on the arm. that is just because i didn't fix the prismas correct there about 1° or 2° to far...
If the angles are correct it will work very good. But i'll do that by the time my "do it yourself projector" is finished... then i will post projected anamorphed pictures...