dc_pilgrim said:
In my case, my projector is extremely short throw. Right now, I am looking at a throw ratio of 1.3:1 (projector is 1.3 times the width of the native 16:9 image) and if I zoom, that becomes 1.0:1. With the size prisms I have (7.5" x 5.5") the HE lens can cope with the full zzoom with out any problems.
However, when I turns it around last night to form a VC, the width was clipped due to the fact that the prisms are now 5.5" x 7.5". If the prisms were 7.5 x 7.5, I would not have any issue.
The alternative for me is to purchase a new projector with a longer throw. It is on the TO DO list, but won't happen straight away. This will force me to have a smaller screen, but then I will stay with the HE to give the max width...
morkys said:
It really depends on the TR of your projector. Most people using projectors like the panny 900 or similar, should be able to get away with 4 x 5 prisms. The only real negative aspect of having really big prisms is simply having a really big lens. My lens (case) has a footprint of 8" x 8" so is not that big anyway...
Mark
Fair enough. What retail products have you used, if any? Any thoughts as to whether a Panamorph 752 would work with a projector that has a 1.6 zoom?
You'd be best to check out the Panamorph site. They have a listing of their lenses and projectors that have been tried, tested and proven to work...
www.panamorph.com
Mark
www.panamorph.com
Mark
Did the paper test... I have a very short throw set up due to room limitaations. I'm throwing a 106 inch diagonal (16x9) at close to 13 feet.
Optoma H78:
-Right at the aperture (the ##$%% lens is recessed on this model) the image size is approx 2 X 1 1/2 inches
-At 2 inches it is approx. 3 1/4 in x 2 inches
-At 8 inches it is HUGE... approx. 8 x 4 1/2 inches (!!!)
Doesn't this take me out of the running for using the trophy prismsn from massillonplaque?
Optoma H78:
-Right at the aperture (the ##$%% lens is recessed on this model) the image size is approx 2 X 1 1/2 inches
-At 2 inches it is approx. 3 1/4 in x 2 inches
-At 8 inches it is HUGE... approx. 8 x 4 1/2 inches (!!!)
Doesn't this take me out of the running for using the trophy prismsn from massillonplaque?
What are the largest ones they make? I have a 1.3 TR with a recessed lens and I am using 2 of the 7.5 x 5.5 inch prisms. Mine are slightly different from the ones you guys are getting, although I have been given the details of a company in Sydney that have the same 3 sizes you guys have...
Mark
Mark
Per
http://www.massillonplaque.com/product-detail.php?templateid=4&productid=85
Small = 4" x 6"
Med. = 5" x 7"
Large = 6" x 7.5"
My order was processed on Monday and Suzanne said it usually takes 2-3 days to get to my state. I'm hoping to see that UPS delivery truck pull up in front of my house today!😀
I've been watching parts of squeezed 2.35 and 2.40 movies all this week, I'm getting tired of seeing a bunch of tall stretched people on my wide screen! LOL!
I've been watching parts of squeezed 2.35 and 2.40 movies all this week, I'm getting tired of seeing a bunch of tall stretched people on my wide screen! LOL!
Just got the call from the Canadian distributor I'm using and mine are in earlier then they thought! I'm picking 10 wedges up Saturday, 4 for me, 4 for morkys and 2 for Bud!
Very cool! It looks like several of us will be experimenting with these wedge prisms at the same time.
Still working on different housings...now thinking I need a housing to slide to the side instead of rotating the prisms for pass thru(haven't tried the "pass thru" mode yet).
Any ideas for housings/mounts? Was thinking of a bar the housing could slide along...
Hey, ROAR, waiting to see what you come up with.
Bud
Any ideas for housings/mounts? Was thinking of a bar the housing could slide along...
Hey, ROAR, waiting to see what you come up with.
Bud
Bud Bray said:
BUD! Shhhhh... how am I suppose to mark them up 400% for morkys when you run around telling everyone the deal I gave you??? 🙂
(morkys doesn't know me as well as Bud, I am kidding and you can both see the receipt 🙂 Let's just say I'm glad I called the Canadian distributor)
Actually, it's kind of been a blessing that I don't have my prisms yet. It's given me an opportunity to take care of the aesthetics of my theater. I've spent the week cutting light maple molding and trim.
I purposely left the wood a satin finish as I didn't want too much distraction during movies. I left the surrounding areas around the screen with just side drapes so the image is not competing with framing/moldings. When an image is projected it just seems to float in black space, just like I wanted.
Sorry to jump off topic, I was just bored! LOL!
I purposely left the wood a satin finish as I didn't want too much distraction during movies. I left the surrounding areas around the screen with just side drapes so the image is not competing with framing/moldings. When an image is projected it just seems to float in black space, just like I wanted.
Sorry to jump off topic, I was just bored! LOL!
I still quietly lurk here. My DIY lens project is on hold for the moment, but I have some ideas I still want to implement--and I am not completely off the idea of 4:3 to stretch to 21:9, but I have some ideas to try to tune in the wedges to get the best picture (and this ability to tune in would also apply to the first level stretch (4:3 to 16:9 or 16:9 to 21:9), and hopefully eliminate or severely reduce the distortions.
But wanted to comment on the pass through mode. I have done it with my housing, allowing the prisms to rotate within the housing, and it works perfectly! Although it may be easier to slide the whole contraption out of the way.
But wanted to comment on the pass through mode. I have done it with my housing, allowing the prisms to rotate within the housing, and it works perfectly! Although it may be easier to slide the whole contraption out of the way.
Steve Scherrer said:
I still have to set the prisms EXACTLY, then try "pass-thru" mode...That's what Lay-off is for, right?
Awesome. I may be able to pick up my prisms lens this Saturday if possible. Who knows exactly.
So am I dreaming when I think I can engineer something with these prisms that will allow me to operate my lens so that I have a variable stretch for films between 1.78:1 and 2.37:1? Some sort of knobs and/or gears on the sides of the prisms to turn them?
So am I dreaming when I think I can engineer something with these prisms that will allow me to operate my lens so that I have a variable stretch for films between 1.78:1 and 2.37:1? Some sort of knobs and/or gears on the sides of the prisms to turn them?
morkys said:
That is correct. I used adhesive to adhere a pivot under each lens, and then a bolt adhered to the top of each prism, and traversing through the top of the housing allows me to put a dial on each bolt. The dial can be engineered to "lock" in certain areas when rotated. Once the bolt and dial are placed, just figure out where to set the dial, mark it, set the "lock" for each position, and you have a dial-in for the lenses. Once I get back in the swing of things on this project, I will try to post some pictures.
That sounds great. That is exactly what I wanted to hear.
I have almost finished re-doing my AV stand and I am shuffling furniture around. I have to go grab another roll of blackout fabric and start to build my 2.37:1 screen very soon. This should prove very interesting 🙂
Sliding box
Bud,
I was thinking about a sliding box rather than rotating wedges as well and think I may be on to something.
You can buy inexpensive drawer glides/rollers at a hardware store and attach them to the box and to the ceiling. Think about the box being the drawer and the ceiling being the opening in a cabinet. Some of the mating rollers actually lock together and have roller bearings in them. I think that rollers made specifically for computer keyboard drawers may be best since they lock together and are generally a very thin profile.
Another very nice thing about this concept is that these rollers usually have detents in the fully extended or retracted positions so that the drawer (or box in this case) will locate itself back to the exact position you want it to go making repositioning infront of the projector lens very easy.
It's only in my head right now but as least it works in there. Now it's just a matter of putting it into practice.
Bud,
I was thinking about a sliding box rather than rotating wedges as well and think I may be on to something.
You can buy inexpensive drawer glides/rollers at a hardware store and attach them to the box and to the ceiling. Think about the box being the drawer and the ceiling being the opening in a cabinet. Some of the mating rollers actually lock together and have roller bearings in them. I think that rollers made specifically for computer keyboard drawers may be best since they lock together and are generally a very thin profile.
Another very nice thing about this concept is that these rollers usually have detents in the fully extended or retracted positions so that the drawer (or box in this case) will locate itself back to the exact position you want it to go making repositioning infront of the projector lens very easy.
It's only in my head right now but as least it works in there. Now it's just a matter of putting it into practice.