well, I have no idea what XS650 crank is but I think get the impression you trying to convey 😀
sounds like I could do my cabs some serious damage 😉
sounds like I could do my cabs some serious damage 😉
😀The XS is the best British bike the Brits never built, as it´s Japanese. The crankshaft is a very solid affair, so taking it apart needs some serious oomph. Shows that you were on the right track with your idea, just a wee bit pessimistic about how much power is yours to wield.
Indeed, after scoping out a '72, I sold my '66 Bonneville for one. Put well over 100 k mi. on it before parking it in the shed, where sadly, it's (not so) slowly rotting away due to lack of funds to either restore it or convert it to a flat track style sportster that was the prime reason for keeping it.
GM
GM
Ah . . . the triton . . . .
you mean this one . . .
Amazon.com: Triton Ultimate 3-Wheeled Cruiser - Red
you mean this one . . .
Amazon.com: Triton Ultimate 3-Wheeled Cruiser - Red
Dunno, don't recall ever seeing one except in the mags, though I still swoon at the sight of Vetter's X-75........
GM
Bah, Speed Triple. Nearly bought one but loved my SV1000 so much I bought that instead. Cheaper too.
At least it wouldn't leak oil everywhere and I see no Price Of Darkness electrics to strang you in the middle of nowhere, late at night in the rain.
lol no....the marriage of triumph twin and norton frame fool lol
www.realclassic.co.uk/triton04120102.jpg
lol my dad used to HAVE one.
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GM,
! Knowing you, I´m afraid you´ll feel tempted to do nice&nasty things to the engine. For motocross with sidecar the crazies over here bored and stroked her up to 950cc and went chasing Nortons. Might give you that bit of unfair advantage that that carb in your Hog got you.
! Knowing you, I´m afraid you´ll feel tempted to do nice&nasty things to the engine. For motocross with sidecar the crazies over here bored and stroked her up to 950cc and went chasing Nortons. Might give you that bit of unfair advantage that that carb in your Hog got you.
It actually won awards for that for a number of years. I put the swingarm and rear wheel from one on my SR250 with a BIG fat Avon Venom 🙂
dave
Dave,
I must be doing something wrong, like living in the wrong country. Getting something like that street legal over here would take an amount of paperwork you don´t want to imagine.
I must be doing something wrong, like living in the wrong country. Getting something like that street legal over here would take an amount of paperwork you don´t want to imagine.
Pit,
You can't change parts?
The same bike also had a front end (with disk brake) from an RD400, also with a big Venom. Less than 300 pounds wet, handled incrediably well, stopped like crazy. Wasn't overly fast thou.
I'd like something similar in a 400. This would be a good start. Be better if it wasn't water cooled thou.
dave
You can't change parts?
The same bike also had a front end (with disk brake) from an RD400, also with a big Venom. Less than 300 pounds wet, handled incrediably well, stopped like crazy. Wasn't overly fast thou.
I'd like something similar in a 400. This would be a good start. Be better if it wasn't water cooled thou.
dave
Attachments
Dave,
not impossible, but very difficult. Any changes need the go-ahead from an engineer (and Ingenieur is an academic title here, so no cheating) and/or the OK from the maker/importer of your bike.
Mind - I´m not always unhappy with our harsh safety standards. We are next door to the ex Iron Curtain, and some heavy trucks from "over there"...rolling time bombs, believe me. They are allowed 80 Kmh (50 mph) and I wouldn´t trust some of them at walking speed.
Hmmm...air cooled big four stroke single with decent brakes and tires - yes. By all means, yes.
When stii allowed we did that with 2strokes. Maico were a very small firm without a bureaucratic hydrocephalus, and all of them bike crazy. You just phoned them, and no matter how deviant your idea, they had already tried it. Crowning glory was a 125cc road bike with the 500cc motocross engine...talk about soiled underwear!
Pit
not impossible, but very difficult. Any changes need the go-ahead from an engineer (and Ingenieur is an academic title here, so no cheating) and/or the OK from the maker/importer of your bike.
Mind - I´m not always unhappy with our harsh safety standards. We are next door to the ex Iron Curtain, and some heavy trucks from "over there"...rolling time bombs, believe me. They are allowed 80 Kmh (50 mph) and I wouldn´t trust some of them at walking speed.
Hmmm...air cooled big four stroke single with decent brakes and tires - yes. By all means, yes.
When stii allowed we did that with 2strokes. Maico were a very small firm without a bureaucratic hydrocephalus, and all of them bike crazy. You just phoned them, and no matter how deviant your idea, they had already tried it. Crowning glory was a 125cc road bike with the 500cc motocross engine...talk about soiled underwear!
Pit
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Boring. Not 20km from me is a mid series RGV250 with a worked RG500 motor in it, all street legal. Scary but wicked fun to ride. Looks stock too, until you count the exhausts.
Not his, but sweet looking anyway.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Look, the crazy lot of you...I have decided to be an old man, not yielding to temptation anymore - no speakers above 60 dB/W/m, no bikes with an engine worth looking at and NO LONGLEGGED BLONDES!Just shut up, all of you.
OK, I might find a way to blackmail my bank manager.
Open baffle board size for a 12" driver?
Can anyone point me to a thread that might tell about what is the optimal size board to use when building a 12" driver open baffle speaker? My brother in Alabama tells me that the open baffle design with one full range driver is a good stater project as well as a reasonably well sounding one. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Can anyone point me to a thread that might tell about what is the optimal size board to use when building a 12" driver open baffle speaker? My brother in Alabama tells me that the open baffle design with one full range driver is a good stater project as well as a reasonably well sounding one. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Hi all
You certainly have used the packaging paper for some proof of concept enclosure.
Used as a single sheet, is rather air leaky and doesn’t hold it’s shape above some large lengths.
But this material is IMHO capable of doing more than this.
It is very neutral in terms of own sound (it doesn’t support any appreciable amount of sound waves traveling over it’s surface).
It can be used to build rigid shapes by using it in sandwich: Two or more sheets glued one over the other, with their waving either parallel (so you can form it into curved shapes) or with an angle (90d for 2 sheets, 120d for 3 sheets, e.c.t.) for flat surfaces.
It can be “voiced” by brushing it with -or immersing it into- a varnish. The kind of varnish and the amount of it absorbed into the paper, alter paper’s acoustic properties dramatically.
In sandwich form, mechanical and acoustical properties are affected also by the way that the sheets are glued together (the kind of glue and how it is applied).
In sandwich form again, a given flat shape can be sectioned in unsymmetrical fashion in each layer to effectively kill any traveling waves through it by spreading the waves into different size and shape sections in each layer.
It can also be used as a core for sandwiching it with harder surface panels.
All these, added with it’s low cost (~0.4 Euro/sq.meter) and ease of cutting and shaping (*PS), makes it a very useful material for real speakers built in the spirit of diy.
I hope I am not repeating anyone’s input so far
Best Regards
George
*PS. It can also be shaped into some difficult shapes (up to a limit) by forming it over steam and then drying it with hot air
You certainly have used the packaging paper for some proof of concept enclosure.
Used as a single sheet, is rather air leaky and doesn’t hold it’s shape above some large lengths.
But this material is IMHO capable of doing more than this.
It is very neutral in terms of own sound (it doesn’t support any appreciable amount of sound waves traveling over it’s surface).
It can be used to build rigid shapes by using it in sandwich: Two or more sheets glued one over the other, with their waving either parallel (so you can form it into curved shapes) or with an angle (90d for 2 sheets, 120d for 3 sheets, e.c.t.) for flat surfaces.
It can be “voiced” by brushing it with -or immersing it into- a varnish. The kind of varnish and the amount of it absorbed into the paper, alter paper’s acoustic properties dramatically.
In sandwich form, mechanical and acoustical properties are affected also by the way that the sheets are glued together (the kind of glue and how it is applied).
In sandwich form again, a given flat shape can be sectioned in unsymmetrical fashion in each layer to effectively kill any traveling waves through it by spreading the waves into different size and shape sections in each layer.
It can also be used as a core for sandwiching it with harder surface panels.
All these, added with it’s low cost (~0.4 Euro/sq.meter) and ease of cutting and shaping (*PS), makes it a very useful material for real speakers built in the spirit of diy.
I hope I am not repeating anyone’s input so far
Best Regards
George
*PS. It can also be shaped into some difficult shapes (up to a limit) by forming it over steam and then drying it with hot air
Attachments
I'm reviving this thread to ask if we could update some of the information on other materials like the following:
- using 4mm aluminium as a baffle, bolted on to the wood underneath. Changing the aluminium front plate would allow for trying out different units if the cutout behind were generous. what effect would this have on sound? It would be stiff, of course.
- bamboo. Looks nice and available as worktops for instance, as well as flooring
- various plastic laminates. High-density polyethylene HDPE for instance or Tufnol - see 20mm - Direct Plastics Online
- sound deadening Green Glue as a filler between layers - see What is Green Glue? | Green Glue Shop: Sound Proofing and Acoustics
- any other interesting materials
We've had a lot on MDF, ply and solid wood but could we widen the discussion a little?
andy
- using 4mm aluminium as a baffle, bolted on to the wood underneath. Changing the aluminium front plate would allow for trying out different units if the cutout behind were generous. what effect would this have on sound? It would be stiff, of course.
- bamboo. Looks nice and available as worktops for instance, as well as flooring
- various plastic laminates. High-density polyethylene HDPE for instance or Tufnol - see 20mm - Direct Plastics Online
- sound deadening Green Glue as a filler between layers - see What is Green Glue? | Green Glue Shop: Sound Proofing and Acoustics
- any other interesting materials
We've had a lot on MDF, ply and solid wood but could we widen the discussion a little?
andy
I just made speaker baffles from 3/8" ali bolted to 1/2" MDF on the front of smallest parts express curved cabs
JX92s & aurum cantus ribbon
Sound ? - I think it's the best I made so far 🙂
JX92s & aurum cantus ribbon
Sound ? - I think it's the best I made so far 🙂
This is what I was thinking of doing. Did you put any material between the alu front and the MDF or was it just bolted straight on? Did the alu plate cover the whole front or just round the speaker units?
andy
andy