Well I can surmise is your soldering iron is not temperature controlled or burns butane, or you have counterfeit caps. I've resoldered that 12nF capacitor to a PCB making a real meal of it, using lots of solder, repeatedly and taking ages. Before it measured 12.14nF, after 12.15nF. Very stable still.
So I strongly advise PPS as a surface mount film capacitor, they work really well in all my experience, perfectly suitable for beginners (if a reasonable size(!)).
Polyphenylene sulfide is a very heat-stable material compared to most other dielectrics other than PTFE and some other exotics. Here's another board with lots of them that works fine too:
Eight 220nF PPS caps implement two 4-pole high-pass Sallen Key filters and exhibit a clean frequency response. Four on the back implement a phono-preamp input stage, again works nicely.
T12, quite stable controlled soldering iron. Soon to be upgraded to a better T245. I only do smd, well almost exclusively bar few trough hole if the case is better cap or higher current/voltage part.
What i can sum from this is, wima makes bad pps caps and panasonic does it proper. Still, i don't think you would be passing proper with solid gnd plane connected cap. It sucks too much heat away, but it still affects cap directly. Those on the salen picture look extremely like acrylic rather than pps 😅
My parts are only sourced from mouser. I don't have time to deal with fakes.
This one SMDIC03100KA00MP00
Solder if possible with proper gnd plane reference.
Since rubycon acrylic goes around the same price for the same value, no real need to go this film cap. 400C, easy to solder by hand for beginners, and no real threat to overheat on gnd plane reference. Where wima gnd plane should be preheated with heat gun then soldered.
Solder if possible with proper gnd plane reference.
Since rubycon acrylic goes around the same price for the same value, no real need to go this film cap. 400C, easy to solder by hand for beginners, and no real threat to overheat on gnd plane reference. Where wima gnd plane should be preheated with heat gun then soldered.
Again you see a problem where there is none. Each of us once had to learn how to solder slightly more demanding components so there is a first time for everything.
In the picture are KYOCERA AVX CB052E0105KBC (1uF/100V) very similar to WIMA. I solder them without any problems or damage. It is important that the tip temperature does not exceed 250C, the same applies to WIMA.
In the picture are KYOCERA AVX CB052E0105KBC (1uF/100V) very similar to WIMA. I solder them without any problems or damage. It is important that the tip temperature does not exceed 250C, the same applies to WIMA.
Attachments
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
FWIW my experience with SMT leads to the following advice for beginners doing it by hand soldering;
a) For parts with 3 or more 'legs' use through hole - reason is that if you put down the wrong value part by mistake then with only two terminals it's almost easy to remove them with a soldering iron in each hand, but a 3 terminal part means special tooling for your iron, or the 3rd iron has to go in your mouth or you have to cut the part up and remove it in pieces.
b) I also don't like surface mount film caps, I've melted a couple. I also don't like those surface mount electrolytic cans because the contacts are hard to hand solder fully
c) All the above means I tend to go hybrid, resistors (1206 parts are large enough to read their values), diodes, CoG capacitors are all SMT, transistors and big caps are all through-hole
c) don't pre-solder both pads before fitting the component because you can't melt both pads at the same time very easily. It's usually just fine to start with clean pads, put the part down with heat resistant ESD safe tweezers whilst you touch the iron on one end to glue it in place, then solder the other end fully and return to the first end and make that joint final.
a) For parts with 3 or more 'legs' use through hole - reason is that if you put down the wrong value part by mistake then with only two terminals it's almost easy to remove them with a soldering iron in each hand, but a 3 terminal part means special tooling for your iron, or the 3rd iron has to go in your mouth or you have to cut the part up and remove it in pieces.
b) I also don't like surface mount film caps, I've melted a couple. I also don't like those surface mount electrolytic cans because the contacts are hard to hand solder fully
c) All the above means I tend to go hybrid, resistors (1206 parts are large enough to read their values), diodes, CoG capacitors are all SMT, transistors and big caps are all through-hole
c) don't pre-solder both pads before fitting the component because you can't melt both pads at the same time very easily. It's usually just fine to start with clean pads, put the part down with heat resistant ESD safe tweezers whilst you touch the iron on one end to glue it in place, then solder the other end fully and return to the first end and make that joint final.
That soldering job looks like two boogers out of the nostrils of a Welsh coal-miner.
Good for you. Maybe you got lucky. I've seen ceramic capacitors crack due to the heat stresses of hand soldering. The cracks are often not visible by the naked eye, but the caps disintegrate when you de-solder them with hot tweezers. Such cracks result in some really interesting circuit behaviour that's very hard to debug via email. Ask me how I know...
Tom
I second that recommendation. I use a toaster oven for reflow. It works very well. I keep an eye on the temperature with a K-type thermocouple thermometer and plug/unplug the oven at strategic points to get close to the prescribed reflow temperature curve.
I use this setup only for prototypes. Any board of mine that ever gets into a customer's hands is soldered by machine.
Tom
If you are hand-soldering, my main advice is to make sure you have generous pads for the footprints on the pcb. If you are using Kicad there are footprints that indicate they are for hand-soldering which I think work well. I have never used an oven so have no idea whether the generous footprints make much difference in that case.
The two times I have used SMD components for crossfeed circuits I have gone with C0G caps - 1% or 2% since they can be surprisingly affordable. Perhaps I have been too cavalier as I hand-solder 1206 components without taking any special precautions. While I have never attempted to measure the individual capacitors after soldering, the measured frequency responses of the completed circuits have looked just like they should.
Especially if the OP uses some care I am confident it will work out fine. I am glad they are going to give it a try.
jason
The two times I have used SMD components for crossfeed circuits I have gone with C0G caps - 1% or 2% since they can be surprisingly affordable. Perhaps I have been too cavalier as I hand-solder 1206 components without taking any special precautions. While I have never attempted to measure the individual capacitors after soldering, the measured frequency responses of the completed circuits have looked just like they should.
Especially if the OP uses some care I am confident it will work out fine. I am glad they are going to give it a try.
jason
Tips for soldering (multilegged and other complicated parts), as well as an endless list of life-hacks-style stuff. I lllike it!
(Somewhere past 730 #749 was about desoldering IRC.)
https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/161 (look for #465, #723 ff etc.…
(
https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/161 (look for #465, #723 ff etc.…
Last edited:
actually, I was looking for this desoldering-tips…
https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/860
https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/860
I'd definitely use the larger footprints for hand-soldering. I suppose for hand-placement and oven reflow the larger footprints would make it a bit easier to place the parts, but the size difference isn't dramatic so I doubt it would make much of a difference. Unless you're really pressed for size (or weight), I don't see any drawback of the larger footprints either.
Most importantly; if you're using DIY reflow use 60/40 Sn/Pb solder paste. That's much more friendly to DIY work. The most common solder alloy for solder paste is SAC305, which is awful to work with. I tried that and had to retouch most of the board after. I've never had 60/40 fail.
I think the difficulty I had with SAC305 is mostly because the toaster oven really struggles to get up to the right temperature for lead-free reflow. Some add insulation to the oven to help with that. Apparently the stuff that's used to insulate the firewall in cars can be handy. There're some products for exhaust systems that can be used too. I have yet to bother with any of this.
I write a bit about the various solder alloys here: https://neurochrome.com/pages/choosing-solder
Tom
Sounds like your reflow oven is just too cold for SAC305, I use Chipquik SMD291SNL10 no-clean paste which is SAC305 and its fine. My adapted toaster oven features both heaters at the top spaced to provide a flat heat-illuminated area at the board height - it came with one on top and one below so a little light metalwork was required. Try resting the board on Al foil in the oven to reduce heat lost from the undersize of the board.