Desktop OB computer speakers

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#21
No worries.

Have you considered the Jaycar high-end 4" (Hi-Vi B4N)? I've heard it's a pretty solid performer for its size and cost.
Keep in mind that the Jaycar 5" paper cone is 50WRMS, so you'd need a half decent amplifier to run it efficiently. The B4N is 25WRMS and only 3dB down on the CW2192.
 
#23
Madisound just came back to me with the shipping costs. The RB kit is not an option if I get just one kit. Shipping costs more than the kit itself. Maybe I should start a group buy if I decide to get them 😀

The options as of now are:

:checked: Paring 2 HiVi B1S or B2S (one in front and one rare-firing, phase-inverted)with the 5" jaycar (paper cone)

:checked: 2 HiVi B3S's mounted back to back in FR mode and a forward firing 'augmenter' tweeter

:checked: Paring 2 HiVi B1S or B2S (one in front and one rare-firing, phase-inverted) with a HiVi B3S.

B1S is very limited in power handling and SPL - only 1W, 79dB. B2S handles 10W with 78dB. As I'm thinking of using these as tweeters, which would be better? Is this a good idea?

:scratch: what to do? 😕
 
#25
merajsalek said:
Madisound just came back to me with the shipping costs. The RB kit is not an option if I get just one kit. Shipping costs more than the kit itself. Maybe I should start a group buy if I decide to get them 😀

The options as of now are:

:checked: Paring 2 HiVi B1S or B2S (one in front and one rare-firing, phase-inverted)with the 5" jaycar (paper cone)

:checked: 2 HiVi B3S's mounted back to back in FR mode and a forward firing 'augmenter' tweeter

:checked: Paring 2 HiVi B1S or B2S (one in front and one rare-firing, phase-inverted) with a HiVi B3S.


:scratch: what to do? 😕
Click to expand...

B3S is open-backed, so you don't need one at the back. Not sure about B1 and B2 🙂
 
#26
Moondog - thank you very much for directing me to the Soundlabs Group website. I wasn't aware of it! 🙁

- xo between mid and tweeter should be 24db. This is because you want to cut the tweeter as low as possible, so that the midrange would not go into peak-and-dip territory of OB. 1.5kHz is good if the tweeters can handle it.
Click to expand...

I was looking to for a tweeter that fits my budget and can be crossed over at 1.5K. The B2S is open backed, so using it as a tweeter would negate the need for a rare tweeter. The B1S is cheap, so 2 units (front and rare) can be used without going beyond budget. Thus I considered the HiVi's.

In the beginner's mind there are many possibilities, in the expert's mind there are few- Shunryu Suzuki. I have too many possibilities in my mind :bawling: Think I'll make it simple for myself and narrow down the choices:

Option 1:
Tweeter - HiVi B2N (http://darcheraudio.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=31&products_id=106)
Midwoofer - HiVi B3N (http://darcheraudio.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=31&products_id=26)

Option 2:
Tweeter - Visaton SC 10 N (http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p/V-8011-SC10N/SC+10+N+-+8+Ohm) > 2 units (front and rear)
Midwoofer - Visaton WS 13 E (http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p/...WS+13+E+-+8+Ohm)

Option 3:
Tweeter - Vifa LOGIC 25TG18 (http://www.speakerbits.com/products...uadral-tweeter-hiquphon-tweeter/list-148.aspx) > 2 units (front and rear)
Midwoofer - Vifa LOGIC 14WG08 (http://www.speakerbits.com/products...idranges-quadral-bass-midranges/list-150.aspx)

Thoughts?
 
#28
merajsalek said:
Just got the Panasonic WM-16A. ...
Click to expand...


May I ask a dump question, is this Panasonic WM-16A a driver?

About the drivers with brand "Panasonic", I found only limited sources from Taiwan or Hongkong. There're quite a few on the web auction here, maybe leaking out from RAMSA, I'm not sure.

However I found no datasheets for those drivers. So, even though some of them "look" very interesting and well made, I've not tried any yet. Such as:

http://tw.f4.page.bid.yahoo.com/tw/auction/d36590629

http://tw.f2.page.bid.yahoo.com/tw/auction/b44240431

.....
 
#32
The B3N/B3S isn't really much of a tweeter - I'm not sure about the 2 incher, though. (I've built the Zaph Hi-Vi 3" speaker, which is excellent near field but lacks a bit up top. Great for my bedside, though - easy listening speaker).

Interestingly, the Vifa Logic 180mm is the same price as that 140mm...

Stuey
 
#33
I cycled 3k to post that so you better have something to display later on
Click to expand...

I'll do my best 😀

Uncalibrated mic's good till 3kHz.http://www.audioxpress.com/magsdirx/ax/addenda/media/danavaras2861.pdf
For my OB designing purpose, that should be good enough i suppose..

http://www.johncon.com/john/wm61a/ - has some good housing ideas...now where to buy some brass tubing from..hmmmm

The OB's would have to wait a bit. I'll finish up my Gainclone first, along with the mic...

report back as soon as I have something 😀
 
#35
I just had the chance to play around with a Jaycar 5.5" driver hooked up to a LM1875 GC and a Styrofoam baffle. Acceptable Female vocals, think I can live with these as my computer speakers. Low efficiency (88dB), but a dedicated amp and a little fiddling of the gain should give acceptable volume. A sub is a must tho.

I think I'll make myself a single speaker (mono) with these drivers to see how they sound in the configuration I have in mind. A friend donated his ported sub (love those exchange students 🙂 ) to my cause, so I feel a little bit adventurous!

- xo between midrange panel and bass, just use 12db/octave at 300Hz. Simpler and better group delay. I think I can hear ringing with 24db although SL says it's not audible. You can experiment later to cut them even lower, 120Hz if possible so localization is avoided.
- xo between mid and tweeter should be 24db. This is because you want to cut the tweeter as low as possible, so that the midrange would not go into peak-and-dip territory of OB. 1.5kHz is good if the tweeters can handle it.
Click to expand...

I'm still a bit uncomfortable in crossing over to a tweeter at 1.5KHz. Especially to a tweeter that my budget would permit. I'm getting 2 pairs of those US$1.00 ApexJr tweeters from another forum member from Brisbane. Will post more on them shortly.

What about using a HiVi B3N to handle 1KHz to 4KHz and turn it into a 3-way? B3N to Tweeter XO can be a simple 1st order passive, both being driven by one amp and having a cap in front of the tweet giving DC protection. I'll follow Gainphile recommendations on the rest.

Comments?

To Gainphile: I remember seeing pictures of your 3-way desktop OBs. What made you ditch them in favour of 2-ways?
 
#37
I didn't mean to put you off the B3N as a tweeter entirely!

You could always first try the B3N on its own (with the Jaycar's), using the principles from Zaph's filtering on his design (such as the 8 kHz notch) to get it right. As I say, it's pretty good near field and I guess that's what you want. Certainly it's non-fatiguing. I assume Zaph's 'crossover' in its entirety wouldn't be directly compatible with OB, though (eg. it has varying levels of BSC).

I'm wondering whether this would be better than having a 3way with a cheapish tweeter?

You need to be careful, though, as the filter components will mount up in cost...

Stuey😉
 
#38
No worries mate, I haven't given up on the B3N's yet 🙂 In fact you got me thinking about using the Apex Jr tweets as super-tweeters with the B3N's. Planet10 of Frugal Horn used these tweeters as Super Tweeters on some of his Full Range designs. He seems to like their sound. At that kind of price, I can give them a go.

If I cross over from the B3S at 7KHz, I can avoid the passive notch at 8KHz. I will be using active XO's, so baffle step can be done electronically.

I'm trying to wrap my head around polar response at the moment. I'm a bit confused with Gainphile's advice to cross over to the tweeter at 1.5KHz to avoid OB peaks and dips. Wouldn't putting a inverted-phase tweeter at the rear cause those same peaks and dips?

😕
 
#39
merajsalek said:


To Gainphile: I remember seeing pictures of your 3-way desktop OBs. What made you ditch them in favour of 2-ways?
Click to expand...

I got tired of looking at 15" woofers on my desk. 10" are acceptable. Plus I'm out of amps now that the livingroom speakers need 3 pairs of them. Just using these at the moment while deciding and saving what amp to build next.

http://gainphile.blogspot.com/2008/11/tangband-w3-1364-3-monitor.html

I'm also still struggling to get the pluto clone sound right in the small room. It should be an ideal size and looks. But they're just smeared and no bass, etc. They need more amps too...

Let us know how the B3N on OB. I've always been curious and hopeful of them. Availability, price etc. is very appealing.


I've lost taste in listening to music etc. recently hearing those terrible bushfires. I used to ride my bike to Marysville every weekend for coffee and breakfast with mates. Best motorcycling road I know of. To see it simply GONE is hard to fathom. Can't even imagine how those people there cope, losing everything.
 
#40
That seems like you need to build a lot of amps 😀

Could you shed some light on this?
I'm a bit confused with Gainphile's advice to cross over to the tweeter at 1.5KHz to avoid OB peaks and dips. Wouldn't putting a inverted-phase tweeter at the rear cause those same peaks and dips?
Click to expand...

I'll report back on the B3N's. Expect to order them next week. Busy with building my gainclones at the moment.

Down here in QLD we can only imagine the horrors of the bushfire. Hope you and your family are safe and sound.
 
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