Ok, I have a design I like a lot (little more deep bass).
Learned you have to hit Edit on HR to use all those wizards, and view the stuffing, etc... NOT super intuitive, lol.
Take a look (if you would) and tell me if you note any issues...
One thing I still can't tell: Is the port an offset pipe? A bottom loaded TABAQ slot?
Thanks!
Learned you have to hit Edit on HR to use all those wizards, and view the stuffing, etc... NOT super intuitive, lol.
Take a look (if you would) and tell me if you note any issues...
One thing I still can't tell: Is the port an offset pipe? A bottom loaded TABAQ slot?
Thanks!
If you model it as a TL then the port is at the end, with the final section being the port.
If you do it as a MLTL from the start you can have a separate port, which you can place a distance from the end, typically between last and second-last sections. Using a little bit of offset smooths out the response a bit, but it's usually less than what the filling does and possibly not worth the bother. If you're going with a slot port it's simpler to put it at the bottom.
Also, if you double-click on S1 (or any of them) you can have stepped transitions and you don't need that .01 section.
If you do it as a MLTL from the start you can have a separate port, which you can place a distance from the end, typically between last and second-last sections. Using a little bit of offset smooths out the response a bit, but it's usually less than what the filling does and possibly not worth the bother. If you're going with a slot port it's simpler to put it at the bottom.
Also, if you double-click on S1 (or any of them) you can have stepped transitions and you don't need that .01 section.
I double click them, then I get S1S, S2S, etc. in the first row.
Changing CON to .00 just gives an error, then I got errors on L34, until I got it basically turned back to the way it was.
So with the current modeling, I can just take the port config (S4/S5, CON) and make it a slot? Or do I have to start from scratch as a TL?
Changing CON to .00 just gives an error, then I got errors on L34, until I got it basically turned back to the way it was.
So with the current modeling, I can just take the port config (S4/S5, CON) and make it a slot? Or do I have to start from scratch as a TL?
Yeah, way back when I queried Altec and with no explanation suggested 1.5x driver dims on at least two sides & back or heavily damp the area, which was why I'd asked since they really did pack some cabs with up to 6" thick fiberglass blocks/wedges used for attic rafters; ditto some Heathkit Altec kits too.
That said, in my own experiments I couldn't cram enough of other materials to damp as well, so decided to just stuff small cabs and/or vents to 'taste' using the 'click' test.
Re the Tabaq, I've only auditioned a single one back when they first made some 'noise' on the forum and noticed it was severely under damped to my ears setting on a concrete floor in a false wall corner, though wasn't surprised since it was a very high aspect ratio with the driver barely fitting, but others considered it having a nice lively presentation and still popular today, so guess you'll have to build it and form your own opinion.
That said, in my own experiments I couldn't cram enough of other materials to damp as well, so decided to just stuff small cabs and/or vents to 'taste' using the 'click' test.
Re the Tabaq, I've only auditioned a single one back when they first made some 'noise' on the forum and noticed it was severely under damped to my ears setting on a concrete floor in a false wall corner, though wasn't surprised since it was a very high aspect ratio with the driver barely fitting, but others considered it having a nice lively presentation and still popular today, so guess you'll have to build it and form your own opinion.
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OK, thanks! It's more in line with mine size wise (AKA 'large' Tabaq apparently) and nothing like the one I auditioned or even some I remember being posted with similar and even more extreme aspect ratios, so what makes it so special?
I mean there doesn't appear to be any set parameters like an Onken, etc..
I mean there doesn't appear to be any set parameters like an Onken, etc..
Having built 3", 4" original TABAQs, and the 5" Large, I can't recommend the 5" myself.
Their low end is pretty much the same as the 4" , they are much larger in a room, they beam rather early so if you are a few cm/inches away from straight on, you'll lose the highs right away.
The 5" cone still does not move that much air, and for a slim tower, I much prefer the SBA 5x8", as they perform very nicely in a TL/MLTL, and supporting them with a smaller FR. Then, that's the best of both worlds.
Their low end is pretty much the same as the 4" , they are much larger in a room, they beam rather early so if you are a few cm/inches away from straight on, you'll lose the highs right away.
The 5" cone still does not move that much air, and for a slim tower, I much prefer the SBA 5x8", as they perform very nicely in a TL/MLTL, and supporting them with a smaller FR. Then, that's the best of both worlds.
You don't need a zero length section at all. You just make the end of one section whatever area you want, and the beginning of the next section does mot need to be the same area. It can go from 100 to 200 for example.
And yes, you can configure your end section to a slot but don't make the aspect ratio too extreme.
I do love my ovals! Made many a speaker using the Cadillac Eldorado's original Delco 6x9" tri-ax and later used in all of GM's upscale models till stereo took hold.
I do recall discussing this with the friend who will be taking these.
He's heard my 6.5s (W6-2144), which are going to beam even more! Granted, I do like to sit in the sweet spot as much as I can when listening to music... if I'm not in the sweet spot - I likely have a friend I'm showing them off to, and don't mind...
OR, I'm just watching a movie... in which case I don't find the beaming to bother me, even if sitting off access.
I actually tried to convince him on the 4"... (my next personal MLTL goal), but he wanted to go all out, and go for the 5s. I like the look of the 3s, but I do feel one would need bass support on those. And, I have some B3N's already... So W4-2142 is definitely a goal to get into my LR at some point.
Just got back from the local 'big box' store and sadly, the current inexpensive ones are the pits!It's good to see them making a comeback, even if it's only a limited number at the moment.
I'll be going to the audio big box store tomorrow, so will check out these 3 & 4! way units for any potential small HT apps:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker...nes-pair-yellow-black/6333357.p?skuId=6333357
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pioneer-6-x-9-4-way-coaxial-speakers-pair-blue/6454574.p?skuId=6454574
Hopefully those Pioneer's might be reasonable -they've a decent record after all, although following the old racing adage, past success is no guarantee of future results, but will keep fingers crossed!
Indeed! Since I don't have cable or streaming TV, rarely get to watch any F1 nor bother to keep up with it, but last time I paid attention, Red Bull was a perennial also ran and Ferrari didn't make rookie mistakes, though reminded me of watching the Maserati's Sebring '57 'comedy of errors' teamwork and still won, though they arguably had the best drivers.