Yes, suddenly I replaced the original fan with one from a well-known brand renowned for designing fans with low noise Then I added a second 120 mm fan positioned in the middle of the upper cover (at the interior) to evacuate the hot air and suddenly in the middle of summer (with us 30°) the temperature goes from over 60° to 40° (measured using an infrared thermometer on the hood) with a general noise while perfectly acceptable when I'm sitting on my couch watching my favorite movies.
See here on another forum for those interested:https://www.avsforum.com/threads/of...hd-poa-a1hdci-owners-thread.1006957/page-1376
Ha, that’s funny; I was just about to post a link to that thread, since I have posted there too:
https://www.avsforum.com/threads/of...hd-poa-a1hdci-owners-thread.1006957/page-1380
Anyway, there’s not a lot I can do to encourage you. Things are looking pretty bleek, but I don’t want to discourage you either.
These ERS values are height for sure: Nice job on replacing these capacitors; It’s unnoticeable on the photo. The yellow capacitors are most likely tantalum capacitors, which usually do not fail.
For the rest you have to wonder: Could the part you’re replacing be the cause - or contribute to the cause - of the problem you’re trying to fix if it fails? I’m almost sure the answer is ‘no’ for the decoupling capacitors around the DACs. Since all digital inputs are affected, including HDMI (and DenonLink in my case), the failing part has to be someting used by all of these inputs. This only leaves the Altera FPGA, the Analog Devices DSPs, their peripherals, clock source or a power supply. And that’s all hard to measure without an extender board.
Usually, degraded capacitors cause different symptoms. Unless they’re decoupling the FPGA’s power supply, of course.
https://www.avsforum.com/threads/of...hd-poa-a1hdci-owners-thread.1006957/page-1380
Anyway, there’s not a lot I can do to encourage you. Things are looking pretty bleek, but I don’t want to discourage you either.
These ERS values are height for sure: Nice job on replacing these capacitors; It’s unnoticeable on the photo. The yellow capacitors are most likely tantalum capacitors, which usually do not fail.
For the rest you have to wonder: Could the part you’re replacing be the cause - or contribute to the cause - of the problem you’re trying to fix if it fails? I’m almost sure the answer is ‘no’ for the decoupling capacitors around the DACs. Since all digital inputs are affected, including HDMI (and DenonLink in my case), the failing part has to be someting used by all of these inputs. This only leaves the Altera FPGA, the Analog Devices DSPs, their peripherals, clock source or a power supply. And that’s all hard to measure without an extender board.
Usually, degraded capacitors cause different symptoms. Unless they’re decoupling the FPGA’s power supply, of course.
IC605 is an EPCS16SI16N, a serial EEPROM probably holding the FPGA configuration ('program'). The schematic in the service manual, unfortunately, is not text-searchable, and there are lots of 'busses', making the signals hard to follow. You can replace it, but you need to program the replacement part with the proper configuration first.
Another contender is IC611, a DIR9001PWR 'PLL' according to the service manual, but a digital audio receiver according to its datasheet. With an extender board, things like this are easy to verify, but without one, you need to tack measurement wires on everything and keep on disassembling and reassembling until you've found something.
Another contender is IC611, a DIR9001PWR 'PLL' according to the service manual, but a digital audio receiver according to its datasheet. With an extender board, things like this are easy to verify, but without one, you need to tack measurement wires on everything and keep on disassembling and reassembling until you've found something.
Are you able to locate the regulator for the circuit in question?
From reading the first post, was thinking that’s likely about all you can do with a diy repair. Good job finding the bad caps though.
From reading the first post, was thinking that’s likely about all you can do with a diy repair. Good job finding the bad caps though.
Interesting; That's not what I had imagined it'd look like.
Did you follow the fault-finding tree for the Digital Audio board in the Service Manual?
Did you follow the fault-finding tree for the Digital Audio board in the Service Manual?
@Yroger Do you have any updates? Or perhaps more information on those boards?
I have attached some thermograms of the video- and digital-audio-boards in my amplifiers after running for some time. I honestly don't see anything overheating excessively, but perhaps they are useful to others.
I have attached some thermograms of the video- and digital-audio-boards in my amplifiers after running for some time. I honestly don't see anything overheating excessively, but perhaps they are useful to others.
Attachments
It's the HDMI card that heats up the whole thing!! I don't have a flir camera only an infrared thermometer.
One year ago I have had the same problem with my friend's AVP-A1HD, I did not remember details, but after cleaning all boards connectors (stack of digital boards in centrtal part of device) problem disappered and unit works fine everyday.
Problem appered again now: after 20-30 seconds after power on, sound form analog (!) and digital sources may disappear few times, or may have crackling distortion few times. And sometimes VFD display turns off, it is not depent on sound problem.
I can turn on display again by rotating volume knob for example or by pressing any button, so new data sending to VFD and it turn on. After 3-4 seconds it may turn off again.
After 1-2 minutes of unit working all problem vanish and unit works fine again.
Maybe problem with bad connection in some PCB: cold soldering of BGA or bad contact between layers of PCB.
Problem appered again now: after 20-30 seconds after power on, sound form analog (!) and digital sources may disappear few times, or may have crackling distortion few times. And sometimes VFD display turns off, it is not depent on sound problem.
I can turn on display again by rotating volume knob for example or by pressing any button, so new data sending to VFD and it turn on. After 3-4 seconds it may turn off again.
After 1-2 minutes of unit working all problem vanish and unit works fine again.
Maybe problem with bad connection in some PCB: cold soldering of BGA or bad contact between layers of PCB.