Does anyone know a good way to degrease aluminum. My panels are large (54" X 15") if this makes a difference.]
Thanks,
Wes
Thanks,
Wes
Use rags dipped in methyl ethyl ketone (MEK). Work in a WELL ventilated area, and away from any sources of sparks or flames (like pilot lights or motors)- MEK is highly flammable and highly volatile.
degrease aluminum
car wash them first. Bill's right.
Try a good scrub with baking soda it works!
I use a water and baking soda paste to clean my sawblades and I've used it as a parts cleaner too.
If you have to go the chemical route STP makes a great degreaser
just don't leave it on to long.
Mark
car wash them first. Bill's right.
Try a good scrub with baking soda it works!
I use a water and baking soda paste to clean my sawblades and I've used it as a parts cleaner too.
If you have to go the chemical route STP makes a great degreaser
just don't leave it on to long.
Mark
Buy a spray degreaser from Auto-Parts store, used for car engine clean up. Take panels to self serve car wash, spray with degreaser, wait 10 min or so and rinse with water. 😉
Saftey Kleen
I used to buy 55-gallon drums of 111 triclorofloroethane from a company called Safety Kleen. My use was for cleaning motion picture films. Most of there customers used Safety Kleen brand parts washers for grease removal. You might try contacting them and finding out who in your area has a machine large enough to handle your needs.
http://www.safety-kleen.com/skcda/views/pages/channel/SKhome.jsp
I used to buy 55-gallon drums of 111 triclorofloroethane from a company called Safety Kleen. My use was for cleaning motion picture films. Most of there customers used Safety Kleen brand parts washers for grease removal. You might try contacting them and finding out who in your area has a machine large enough to handle your needs.
http://www.safety-kleen.com/skcda/views/pages/channel/SKhome.jsp
IIRC, that stuff is very restricted these days, due to the linking of it with holes in the ozone layer. Too bad, it's an effective solvent. MEK, though flammable, is still the standard solvent used to prep surfaces for finishing. Cuts grease, dries quickly, leaves surfaces clean enough to be anodized, which an aqueous wash won't. And you can get it cheep at any Home Despot.
Most good solvents are restricted these days. Ironically percloriform, dry cleaning fluid, is over 100x as bad an ozone depleter as methelclorform, and yet we don’t ban it. The dry cleaning association apparently has a pretty good political lobby.
One of the things I liked about Safety Kleen is that they managed my waste and helped with the regulatory requirements too. I understand that price and availability has almost completely eliminated the use of these solvents in motion picture film handling.
One of the things I liked about Safety Kleen is that they managed my waste and helped with the regulatory requirements too. I understand that price and availability has almost completely eliminated the use of these solvents in motion picture film handling.
I've seen gallon cans of MEK (along with many other solvents) at the hardware store (Ace) for like $5 or 10.
Tim (has a half gallon of 111TCE 😀 )
Tim (has a half gallon of 111TCE 😀 )
Thanks guys, I'll probably go with the auto degreaser and the car wash route. I am a little hesitant to use harsh chemicals. Funny although I work in a chem lab. (I guess no need to expose myself unnecesarily)
Thanks,
Wes
Thanks,
Wes
lye solution, is good cleaning agent for aluminum, read from the radio amatuer's handbook, it is discussed there,, if your aluminum is collored you can not use this however, do this is a well ventillated area...
Lye is a good prep for anodizing, BUT... it is truly nasty stuff. It will literally turn you to soap. Use eye protection, wear rubber gloves, and a rubber apron is not a bad idea.
Try lighter fluid. Excellent solvent - you'll need very little and the excess evaporates very quickly. If the grease is particularly bad, start with a little gasoline, then the lighter fluid. Used this to clean off small lacquer and enamel mistakes in a small paint shop.
If you are squeamish about using VOCs, then put the panels in your shower, get some dishwashing liquid (for hand washing - not the machine wash stuff) and spread it all over as evenly as you can, then let it sit for a while. Then rinse off. Just like aluminum cookware.
If you need some more scrubbing power, use Tide laundry powder. My mechanic taught me this one. Better than any of the automotive stuff for cleaning hands after a hard day's work.
🙂ensen.
If you are squeamish about using VOCs, then put the panels in your shower, get some dishwashing liquid (for hand washing - not the machine wash stuff) and spread it all over as evenly as you can, then let it sit for a while. Then rinse off. Just like aluminum cookware.
If you need some more scrubbing power, use Tide laundry powder. My mechanic taught me this one. Better than any of the automotive stuff for cleaning hands after a hard day's work.
🙂ensen.
Lye?????????!!!!!!!!!!
Not for degreasing. Taking off burrs, rough edges and the like, then yes.
Making a nice etched surface and leaving a lot of gray gunk in the bottom of the vat, then also yes.
This also applies to any "detergent" high in phosphates. May be harder to find these days thanks to people like........uh, I better quit while I am ahead.....
So........Rodd is turning into the "Central Scrutinizer" in his new role as moderator, eh?
Jocko
Not for degreasing. Taking off burrs, rough edges and the like, then yes.
Making a nice etched surface and leaving a lot of gray gunk in the bottom of the vat, then also yes.
This also applies to any "detergent" high in phosphates. May be harder to find these days thanks to people like........uh, I better quit while I am ahead.....
So........Rodd is turning into the "Central Scrutinizer" in his new role as moderator, eh?
Jocko
Rodd makes a very good point. I can't understand why everyone is aiming for harsh chemicals. If the "grease" in this case is just oil used for cutting and tapping, dishwashing liquid applied with a soft sponge does the job nicely. If the greasy spots are stubborn, you can use Simple Green detergent (http://www.elgene.com/SimpleGreenD.html), available in the US at Target, K-Mart, WalMart, Home Depot and other places.
From my organic chemistry days (well years actually):
My list of best cleaning in the world by application:
ethyl ether (light grease)
hexanes/xylene (heavy grease)
methylene chloride (solder flux)
ethyl acetate (solvent based glues)
acetone and methyl ethyl ketone (general soil and other crap not particulary good on grease and cutting oils)
ethanol (200 proof) no residue/methanol same as acetone but leaves no residue.
All these solvents are extremely flammable, toxic (yes even our friend ethanol), and environmentally unfriendly.
When I worked in a machine shop I used concentrated orange cleaner, it works very well but it always requires some brushing or scotch brite action. For cleaning inaccessible places like tapped holes and things of the sort a little solvent works wonders.
My list of best cleaning in the world by application:
ethyl ether (light grease)
hexanes/xylene (heavy grease)
methylene chloride (solder flux)
ethyl acetate (solvent based glues)
acetone and methyl ethyl ketone (general soil and other crap not particulary good on grease and cutting oils)
ethanol (200 proof) no residue/methanol same as acetone but leaves no residue.
All these solvents are extremely flammable, toxic (yes even our friend ethanol), and environmentally unfriendly.
When I worked in a machine shop I used concentrated orange cleaner, it works very well but it always requires some brushing or scotch brite action. For cleaning inaccessible places like tapped holes and things of the sort a little solvent works wonders.
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